Three-Day Trip to Davos Region: Jöri Lakes to Gasthaus Vereina

(This post published on September 27, 2023, trip took place in August)

Sunday August 20, 2023 -- Last year we spent two nights in a studio apartment in Davos, and did three hikes in the area, during which we discovered other side valleys and places we still wanted to hike in. So with the nice weather early this week we arranged another two-night stay there (different place) with three planned hikes. (Looking back, all three were directly related to the three we did the year before!!!)

The other reason for choosing a multi-day trip to Davos is because of the excessive heat warnings in most other places in Switzerland. Davos was one of the few regions which had acceptable heat levels. We had sunshine and cooler temperatures at higher elevations, so all three of our hikes were successful. And the place we stayed at was in the shade of the mountain by the time we got there after each hike. 

On the first day we headed back to the Flüela Pass to do a second hike to the lovely Jöri Lakes. There is a popular 4½-hour loop tour at elevations of about 2700 meters, popular because there is plenty of parking on the Flüela Pass road, so many people come by car, especially on weekends. Considering this was a Sunday though, we had expected way more people than there actually were.

Both times we didn't do the loop tour. The last time we were here in 2020 (those photos are HERE), we walked up one side of the loop and crossed over to the lakes, but continued down a side valley to the south called the Fless Valley; this year we ascended on the other side of the loop and descended down a side valley to the north called the Jöri Valley, to a mountain hostel (Gasthaus Vereina) from where we caught an alpine taxi out of the valley.  Both of these variations were also 4½ hours and allowed us to experience the views over these beautiful glacier lakes from both sides. 

Last time we hiked over the Jöriflüelafurgga pass, this time we are crossing at the Winterlücke. Both passages are accessed in just under two hours. This here is the start of the hike near the Flüela Pass. 

We ascended from Wägerhütte bus stop on te Flüela Road, and crossed at Winterlücke near the Jöri Glacier. Once getting to the Jöri Lakes, most people will return via the Jöriflüelafurgga. We headed north and were practically the only people descending the Jöri Valley. 

Heading up the mountain with a view down onto the Flüela Pass Road. We started at 10:20, having left home at 6:45 a.m. We booked a spot on the alpine taxi for 5:30 p.m., so that still gives us all day for a 4½-hour hike.  

A look down at all the cars parked on the roadside. It is very convenient for doing the hike as a loop and crossing both passes!

We are heading south now, and the other trail, to the Jöriflüelafurgga Pass is in the opposite direction 

Panorama view of the entire Flüela Valley. Look at the beautiful cloudless blue skies!

But it didn't take long, and this happens often, that a few clouds form just between us and the sun. 

In a way, if the sun is blocked by clouds, the ascent (in this case 575 meters to the Winterlücke Passage) is not so "hot", but I prefer to have sunshine on the landscape around me!

At 2700 meters above sea level, most of the landscape here consists of fallen rock. There were a lot of people on both trails, being a Sunday. 

Hard to believe that some flowers still grow at this elevation.

We got to the Winterlücke passage at noon, so it took us an hour and 20 minutes. We saw some people on that hill (no trail on our map) and decided, as long as we're here, we would do that small detour for the view, after having our picnic lunch first.... 

The first view we had of this barren landscape on the other side of the Winterlücke passage. It is absolutely marvelous, but we stayed here until the sun emerged, so we could view it in the sunshine. 

It's tough to see the Flüela Valley below in full sunshine, and we are sittig in the shade! And it's cold up here!

FOUR MINUTES LATER... that's all we had to wait. Now we have sunshine too, and it was like this for the rest of the day!

And now, sunshine over this wonderful landscape. The little lakes are created by the nearby Jöri Glacier. 

According to this sign, it should take only 2½ hours from here to get to the Vereina Hostel. But the time does not take into consideration the rocky terrain we had to cross! Behind me, but hidden, is what is left of the Jöri Glacier

At 12:30 we packed up and headed up the very steep and rocky cliff, following other people in running shoes. It still amazes me that people go hiking in this kind of landscape without proper hiking boots. 

Sitting on the tiny summit now at 2819 meters above sea level, where we now can see the turquoise Jöri Lakes. 

Panorama view north from this summit: Flüela Valley on the left, and the myriad of glacier lakes on the right. Later we are heading down the valley past the turquoise lake in the center of the photo. 

VIDEO:

Panorama View of the whole region between the Flüela Valley and the Jöri glacier. A single photo cannot capture how stunning this landscape is. And we marvel how relatively easy it was for us to get up here to a height of 2800 meters above sea level so that we can experience this.

We love this barren landscape. The photos don't do it justice

Makes you wonder who thought to spend time piling little rocks on that large boulder!

Posing in front of one of the many lakes

Another bunch of pretty flowers

Here there was a decent trail... but it's the trail marker that amused us. We had never seen one painted so large! I guess so you can see it well if it should get foggy along the way. 

A look above us at what is left of the Jöri Glacier.

Debris left by the retreating glacier. 

What a fabulous colour!

This is the section which took longer to cross than shown on the map, as you had to find your way through the rocks. 

Finally off the section with the rocks, and back to a good, normal mountain trail!

Posing with another lake in the background. The last time we were here, we walked past this lake and over the pass behind it, called the Jörifless Pass

This is the largest and most stunning of the Jöri Lakes. Looking to the west, that passage is the Jöriflüelafurgga, and most of the people who had ascended as we did would now head up that way back to their cars, or the bus on the Flüela Pass road. We are heading to the right from here, down the Jöri Valley. 

It's 14:40 now and we still have lots of time to get to the Vereina Hostel, so we are taking another break in this lovely landscape. 

This view is to the south to the Jöri Glacier and the Winterlücke Passage to its right, across all that rubble that we walked down. 

The passage from the Jöri Lakes (2533 meters) into the Jöri Valley. The sign to Vereina Hostel indicates 1¼ hours. We headed down at 14:45 and made it to the hostel at 16:54, without stops, on good trails. So that's a bit "sporty"! We didn't walk fast, though, but we find that much of the time estimates here are tight, especially if you need to catch a bus and calculate wrong. 

Look at this beautiful valley we are descending now, the Jöri Valley!

Far, far ahead is the Vereina Hostel (Gasthaus) and Restaurant, from where an Alpine Bus takes you down to the city of Klosters, which would be an additional three hours or more, and 13 kilometers to walk out!

It was lovely weather and no longer a difficult path, and we took our time to get to the Gasthaus

Along the way were a couple of waterfalls

I love these flowers, they remind me of the trees in the Lorax book by Dr. Seuss. 

A look up the Jöri Valley along the Jöribach

Another waterfall

The river has carved a small ravine here. 

We got to the Gasthaus Vereina at 16:50. The bus we had reserved (the last of the day) leaves at 17:30. so that is enough time to relax and have something to eat or drink here. 

It was a lovely building with a superb shady terrace.... as it turns out, the only free table was next to a woman who was smoking, so we sat inside. 

We enjoyed our little break, but I have never had such an expensive dessert: Two panache's, a small iced coffee, and this piece of berry cake came to 30 CHF!

The Alpine Taxi ride costs 14 CHF per person and you have to reserve ahead of time to make sure you get a ride. This was the last run of the day at 17:30 (three runs in the afternoon) and saves you 13 km of walking. I would not have undertaken this hike without reserving my spot first. As it turns out, there were two people (with a dog!) who wanted to ride down without a reservation, but there was only one spot left. I wonder what the other person ended up doing?

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

We have done four hikes now in the region of the Flüela Pass: Photos of the other hikes are: Orange 2022, Yellow 2020, Turquoise 2021

It was a wild ride down the narrow Vereina valley from the Gasthaus to Klosters. The road was narrow (could barely cross with bikes riding up the road) and the ravines were steep. The van-bus is the only vehicle allowed to drive up there, and we were glad of the service! This is the only good photo I could take from the bus ride, and it's when we were out of the valley, which is the one on the right. 

A lovely house in Klosters Platz near the train station. We got here shortly after 6 p.m, but had to wait for an 18:30 train to Davos Platz

The train ride from Klosters to Davos

A look down at the city of Klosters as the train makes its way to Davos. 

We got to our studio apartment near the train station in Davos Platz at 7:15 p.m. The sun was set in this part of the village, and it was comfortably cool. The little apartment was fine for two nights, clean and well-stocked with a generous host. It was a very quiet neighbourhood but the studio is built on the ground floor tucked away between the garden play area and the children that lived in the ground floor apartment. As it was hot and summer, they played outside the apartment window till about 8 p.m. I prefer to listen to playing children further away from where I "live". 

General location of where we did the three hikes in the Davos Region.