Loop Hike from Ste-Croix to "Aiguilles de Baulmes" near the French Border.

Wednesday August 9,  2023 -- With the weather in the mountains currently unreliable, we tried something different for a change, traveling to the French (western) part of Switzerland for a hike on the Jura Crest (near the French border, this time, instead of the Italian border, where we usually go). The idea for this hike is something we got from the Internet, as we're not familiar with the area.

The hike was a round tour starting and ending in a town called Ste.Croix in Canton Vaud. You hike along the crest of vertically-falling cliffs called "Aiguilles de Baulmes", Baulmes being the village at the foot of the massif, and "Aiguilles" meaning "needles", which is what the cliffs might look like from the east side, but from our side not so much. Luckily it wasn't too hot, and we did have some nice views across the flat agricultural area between the French border and the Alps in the east, of Lac de Neuchâtel to the north and even Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) to the south, as well as the whole range of the Alps, although the air was hazy.

We don't come to this part of Switzerland often, because it is too flat for us, and it's also a long trip for just a day trip. It took 3½ hours to get to Ste.Croix, and over four hours to get home. But the weather is often better here, and there are some nice old towns to discover.

Arriving in the town of Ste. Crox. The churches in this part of the country are a totally different style than what we are used to. 

Trail markers at the train station indicate 1 hour to the look-out point at "Mont de Baulmes". From there it was another 1 hour 20 minutes to the summit of "Aiguilles de Baulmes" (not counting the detour to the "Cave Noire" (Black Cave), and another 1 hour 20 minutes' descent back to Ste-Croix, mostly through forested sections. We left the train station at 11 a.m. 

Heading out on the trail from where it took us an hour to get to the look-out point on the crest. We are following the National Trail no.5: "Jura Crest Trail"

A look behind us at the town of Ste-Croix as we reach the forest. We didn't go into the town, as the train station was on this side. 

Just before the look-out point, at the top of the hill, is this restaurant called "Mont-de-Baulmes". We got here at noon, exactly one hour after starting on the hike. 

We didn't stop here to eat or drink, but were intrigued by all the stuff they had on the terrace, including a couple of old cable-car cabins converted to little dining areas!

The trail along the crest to the summit of Aiguilles de Baulmes takes about 1 hour 20 minutes. In the background are other popular summits along the Jura Crest Trail, namely "Petites Roches" and "Le Chasseron" 

A zoomed view of the summit of "Le Chasseron", one that we plan to cross someday, maybe on a two-day trip to save ourselves all this travel time. 

This is the look-out point. We stayed here for a while, admiring the 180-degree view. Behind me is the entire crest of the "Aiguilles de Baumes", with the summit at the arrow. That's where we walked to. 

The look toward north-east, you can just see the south end of Lake Neuchâtel  

Panorama view: To the south is Lake Geneva (Lac Léman). The mountain range past the lake is in France (the lake forms the southern border of Switzerland here) and in that set of mountains is Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps. Down below is the town of Baulmes, for which the cliffs here are named. The mountains on the left are mostly the Fribourg Foothills. 

A close-up look at the little Ste-Croix to Yverdons-les-Bains train, which we took on our trip back home. 

This was an almost 4-hour hike again, just over 11 kilometers. One hour to the look-out point, 1hr20 to the summit of the "Aiguilles de Baulmes", 1hr20 back to Ste-Croix. In all we still did a lot of ascent, almost 700 meters. 

Somewhere along the way we found a little bench where we ate our sandwiches (at 13:10)

As we ascend the ridge, more and more of Lake Neuchâtel comes into view 

The entire crest here is part of the Jura Crest Trail. We were looking forward to the detour to the "Grotte Cave Noire" (Black Cave)

A sign warns that the passage to the Black Cave is "Dangerous", although no problem for us, especially as the narrow trail is secured with a handhold chain. We didn't go far into the cave because we didn't have flashlights, but it looked like it didn't go far in anyway. 

Even though the sky was overcast, we still had good views. We don't come here often, though, as the landscape is too flat, and official walking trails are usually on paved roads. At the south end of Lake Neuchâtel is the city of Yverdon-les-Bains, where we had to wait 20 minutes on the way back for a train to Zurich. 

Several times along the way we took a small detour off the main trail to admire the view and the cliffs. 

Nearing the summit now, a nice long view down the crest which we ascended, and a very far-reaching view across to the Bernese Alps, which we were unfortunately not able to see clearly on this day. 

A lovely raven

I would not be this brave to sit on the edge of these cliffs!

A look down a cleft to Lac Léman

Another look to the northeast. The clouds are clearing a bit and we had some sunshine, but it wasn't too hot, so that was good. 

Maybe this is why they call them "needles" ??

We reached the summit at 2:30 p.m. and had a 30-minute break here, some snacks, and a good foot rub!

The view from the summit of the "Aiguilles de Baulmes"

This view to the southwest is actually over the countryside in France, as we are right at the border here. 

A butterfly which was prettier from the top, but it would not open its wings for me!

Heading down the north side of the mountain now, we witness the creation of a wind turbine site (there were three more towers closer to Ste-Croix), a construction which started last year and is planned to be completed this year. The citizens of Ste-Croix were not happy with the Federal Government's decision to build this here, and they caused a lot of damage (sabotage) on the premises in the early stages. Guards had to be posted day and night to prevent more damage. 

Because this is close to the French border, there is evidence of military defense lines here, such as this bunker, and a tank-defense line which we saw on the way here by bus from Buttes. 

A cute bunch of fungi

Most of the way down was through the forest, which was quite comfortable on a hot day. 

A decorated fountain in Ste-Croix

Also some neat decorations on this house we passed. 

We had to hurry on the last stretch not to miss the 16:36 train to Yverdon-les-Bains. We got here at 16:30. Any later and we might have been stuck behind the barrier!

The view as we head down the eastern and southern side of the mountain, first to Baulmes and then to Yverdon-les-Bains at the south end of Lake Neuchâtel  

Passing through Baulmes now, we get a look at the crest where we walked this day. (Aiguilles de Baulmes)

Heading north along Lake Neuchâtel, we can make out the mountains of Canton Fribourg to the east 

On the way to the train station in Neuchâtel, you get a nice view of the castle and cathedral on the hill.  

Location of Les Aiguilles de Baulmes in Switzerland, very near the French border and just north of Lake Geneva.