Hike to the Jöri Lakes near the Flüela Pass in Canton Grisons

Thursday July 30th -- With some vacation days and a heatwave before us, we did a three-day trip to the Davos area of Canton Grisons/Graubünden, an area we don't know well, and which promised cooler weather at higher elevations.

First of what turned out to be four hikes in three days: A 4.5-hour round loop hike near the Flüela Pass to some hidden lakes called Jöriseen (original plan). We left home very early and took a longer route to get there (4 hours), coming up to the Flüela Pass from the South via Susch instead of from the North via Davos, because that way we could beat the crowds from the 10:00 bus from Davos. The loop hike is popular, and even our bus had lots of hikers heading that way, not to mention the car park was full by the time we got there.

No matter, the hikers spread themselves across the mountain flank, and there are two directions to go. We picked the Northern Pass (Jöriflüelafurgga) from where after a fairly steady 550-m ascent (1 hr 45 minutes), we had a spectacular view across the lakes where they glitter turquoise and milky green on the Jöri Plateau. 

Possibly the better choice for the crossing? We don't know, as after we descended to the beautiful lakes, instead of completing the loop (which meant another 300-m ascent to return to the ridge) we chose to cross the Jörifless Pass beyond the lakes, and descend through the Fless Valley back to the road South of the Flüela Pass. We much prefer walking from A to B instead of returning to our starting point. Only problem was, as is so often the case, a tight window to catch the bus at the Pass Road. Had we missed the 15:11 bus, there would have been a 3-hour wait for the next one... So with very little wiggle room time-wise, we fairly hopped down the mountainside and could unfortunately not enjoy the beautiful Fless Valley as much as I'd hoped....

But we made it with a few minutes to spare, and after a 1-hour rest at the Flüela Pass (pleasant when the sun shines, but way too cold with cloud cover, which was mostly the case), a 20-minute bus ride took us to our accommodation for two nights: A very pretty traditional-style farmhouse B&B on the northern edge of Davos Dorf, away from the city bustle, and very very quiet....

Heading to the Flüela Pass from Northern Switzerland via Susch is not the fastest or shortest way, as we came up to the Pass from the South. But it got us from home to the start of our hike the earliest possible, which turned out to be a good thing. We left home at 5:40, and got to the trailhead at 9:40

Heading by bus through the town of Susch on the way to the Flüela Pass, brings back memories of the week we spent here in the Engadine in 2016. At that time we visited this pretty town and hiked up to the fortress on the hill....

Having just crossed the Flüela Pass, the bus descends toward Davos, and the trailhead for the Jöri Lakes Round Tour starts down below at the curve in the road. The red line is approx. the route we took to go up to the ridge, behind which are the lakes

After getting off the bus, we gave the other hikers a head start and waited here in the pretty marsh landscape... had to change into "cooler" clothes as well, as the day was already warm, even up here!

First goal is the Joriflüelafurgga, 1 hour 45 minutes, which is about what it took us. Another option, instead of returning to this point, is the bus stop at Röven, 4 hours from here toward the South on the Flüela Pass Road. (As it turns out, it took quite a bit longer...)

A look northward along the Flüela Pass Road (toward Davos) as we head up the hill. To us, this is a magnificent, and not at all monotonous landscape.

And this view is toward the South, toward the Flüela Pass. The high peak on the left is called the Schwarzhorn (Black Horn) and according to the bus driver, the highest peak in the Davos Area (3145m, also a popular hike to the summit!) Below in the curve is the parking lot for all the cars that came up this day!

And the 10:17 bus from Davos is just arriving from the North! Lots more people to do the hike, so we got quite a ways up the hill before they started!

A pretty menacing-looking bull!

This barren landscape is summer pastureland for cows. Upper right we get a glimpse of Mt. Weissfluh and Weissfluhjoch, which was our destination for Day 3 of our 3-day trip to this region

Lots of daisies

Even though just an hour earlier the skies were pure blue, we are getting lots of shadow now from cloud-cover, which was a real shame

The remaining patches of snow were definitely a hue of pink. Research informed us that this is algae, which is dormant under the snow in winter, but makes its way to the surface in early summer, changing its pigment from green to red, the red colour acting as a sun-block

Final stretch to the saddle where we can pass to the plateau wherein lie the Jöri lakes

 

Final glimpse into Flüela Valley before heading over the ridge

The first glimpse of the Jöri Lakes. They were so much prettier than we expected! The colour comes from the run-off from the Jöri Glacier further to the South beyond this ridge

 

Most of the people gathered at the actual crossing a few meters to the South along the ridge. But we found a great spot here for our lunch break and to admire the lakes, a much better view than at the pass

But of course we had to go to the actual pass as well, for a photo of this accomplishment! Current time = 12:04. Bus at Röven further down the valley leaves at 15:11. Sign says 2.5 hours..... That gives us only 30 minutes leeway, but we are sure going to try!

One final panorama photo of the plateau. On the left you can descend into the Jöri Valley. Straight ahead past the last lake is the Jörifless Pass, which we have decided to cross and then descend into the Fless Valley. And the normal round trail ascends again to the right before the final lake.

 

As we descend, a look behind us at all the people gathered on the Jöriflüelafurgga (the pass where we came up from the Flüela Valley)

As we descend, another beautiful lake appears, one which we couldn't see from above!

Urs taking one of his very very rare photos. He takes about 1-2 photos per hike, when he is really impressed. On the upper right we can see the Jöri Glacier. All the grey stone rubble is the glacier moraine, and that's where the other passage comes down to these lakes (or goes up)

 

The cloudy skies actually made for some interesting patterns and colours on the lake

Down at lake level, we had a quick look into the Jöri Valley. We'll come here again, and next time we'll walk down THAT valley!

Behind Urs you can see the Jöri Glacier. To complete the round tour, we would have to walk up that way, below the glacier, another 300m ascent. We'll do that on a different trip!

Once we passed the lakes, there were no other hikers, as they were all doing the round tour. This is a view back toward the ridge we descended, right in the center of the photo

And one more lake before reaching the second pass into the Fless Valley

At the second pass (Jörifless Pass), before the descent toward the Fless Valley. It is now 13:27, the sign reads 90 minutes to the Röven bus stop, and the bus comes at 15:11. So only 10 minutes leeway! It was a quick descent!

Heading down toward the Fless Valley

These are my favourite kinds of trails to hike, down these kinds of valleys, usually accompanied by the gurgling of a stream.

A panorama view of the two valleys below, Val Torta on the left and Val Fless on the right. We are going to the right, after getting to the bottom!

VIDEO:

Hiking down into the Fless Valley, next to one of the feeder streams.

Looking forward to getting down to the flat part!

 

Looking back at where we descended from the Jörifless Pass

The last 40 minutes to walk out of the Fless Valley were an easy stroll, and I wish we had had more time to really enjoy it!

 

Sunshine, cool breeze, flowing water and a very light descent. Perfect for hiking!

Final stretch. At the building below, it's a zig-zag descent of 100m to the road, and we made it with 10 minutes to spare! (Bus was also a bit late, but can't count on that)

The trail markers at the start in the Flüela Valley (on the left) claimed 4 hours for this tour. Drawn on the map it's almost 4.5 hours. It took us a GOOD 4.5 hours, maybe more.

How our hike looked on Google Satellite Maps

The bus we caught lower down along the Flüela Pass Road took us up to the Pass a second time this day, and instead of continuing on directly to Davos, we got out here at the Pass for an hour to rest before taking the next bus down. Unfortunately, the clouds covered the sun for most of the time, and it was COLD!

And this is the lovely B&B that we had booked for two nights, had a quaint room on the ground floor with our own private WC/Shower, and a fine breakfast in the kitchen to the left. A very nice host as well. He grew up in this house and even as a child, they were already providing accommodation for travelers, especially skiers in winter.

The area around Davos where we hiked for three days. This is quite in the Southeastern part of the country, where we don't go often.