From the Flüela Pass to the Dischma Valley via Grialetsch Valley (Graubünden)

Tuesday July 20, 2021 -- To make up for the lack of nice weather last week, Urs took Tuesday off this week and we did a two-day trip to Canton Graubünden. This time we were blessed with great weather, lots of sunshine, and the hikes we picked to do were at high enough elevations that we didn't feel the heat. (In fact, the first hike was rather cold...)

The main reason for the two-day trip was, once again, to be able to overnight near the start of a challenging hike which we could only access from locally (Wednesday's hike). But we always like to take advantage of the first day to do a "shorter" hike in the vicinity, which is this one I am describing. Last year we did a wonderful hike to the Jöri Lakes near the Flüela Pass (those photos can be viewed HERE), and while traveling to that destination by bus we discovered a side valley (Val Grialetsch) which gave us access to the Dischma Valley, which we had also discovered on the same trip last year (photos HERE)

According to our interactive hiking map, the hike from the Flüela Pass to the Dischma Valley was listed at 3 hours and 45 minutes. The total ascent of 500m over 12 kilometers should have been no issue for us, yet I found the hike quite tiring. Perhaps it's because the start of our hike at the Flüela pass was at an elevation of almost 2400m, and most of our hike was at 2700m, which means thinner air, colder when the sun is gone, and mostly several stretches where we had to make our way across piles of boulders that are quite common at these elevations. Or maybe it was simply because I hadn't slept well the night before.

Nevertheless, the landscape and views were incredible as usual, and the trail itself not particularly difficult to walk (except we had to go slowly as in a lot of places the large amounts of rain we've had have turned these trails into streams...). And the Dischma Valley was as beautiful as we remember, especially with the vast coverings of Alpine Roses (not appreciated by the farmers) and the large volume of water racing down the Dischma River. Best of all, we encountered only two other couples hiking up here, which gives you the sense that you own the world...

Our hotel was in Küblis in the Prättigau (1 hr. 50 minutes from the end of our hike, via Davos), right next to the train station, where we were able to spend a very quiet night and had easy access to the bus to St.Antönien the next morning. 

Here's where we got off the bus, at the Hostel at the Flüela Pass, Altitude 2382m (7820 feet). We came from Davos from the northwest, and are heading eastward down the valley. Starting Time = 10:30

Reading the trail markers, we were surprised that the locals had listed the time to Dürrboden (the end of our hike) as 3 hours and 15 minutes! Even the map had 3-3/4, and it definitely took longer. I guess they walk faster here!

A look back to the Flüela Hotel at the Flüela Pass

Heading South on a trail parallel to the pass road

A lot of sheep up here watching us carefully, to see whether they need to run away or not!

Several small lakes along the way

A bit of colour here and there. 

After 2 km along the pass road, our trail heads uphill to the entrance of the Grialetsch Valley, from where we are going to head southward

There is currently lots of water in the rivers and streams here!

Still some avalanche snow. A couple of weeks earlier might have been difficult to pass here. 

Heading up the hill away from the Flüela Pass road. Way in the back is where we had started.

Fantastic panorama view NW up the Flüela Valley. On the right is a mountain called Flüela Wisshorn, and right behind it are the Jöri Lakes which we discovered a year ago

To the east is the lower part of the Flüela Valley. The road goes down to Susch in the Lower Engadine Valley. Behind me on the right is the entrance to the Grialetsch Valley

The map shows how we followed the Flüela Pass Road, then headed South high above the Grialetsch Valley to the Grialetsch Hostel, then westward to the Dischma Valley. The farm at Dürrboden was the goal of our hike, and it definitely took four hours do do this hike. (A year ago we hiked for two hours out of the Dischma Valley from Dürrboden)

Panorama view of the Grialetsch Valley, which stretches North to South, then West, and connects the Flüela Valley with the Dischma Valley.

VIDEO:

The Grialetsch Valley

High up on the hill we spotted two chamois! Or rather, Urs spotted them, as he is good at that.

VIDEO

Two chamois walking on the snow high on the hillside

Heading along the Grialetsch Valley we came across this small lake, where we had our picnic lunch. 

Picnic lunch and a rest stop at a small lake high above the Grialetsch Valley

VIDEO:

Finding our way across a water course

Behind us is the small lake on the left, and the mountains of the Flüela Valley

Also behind us is the Flüela Road which heads east 

Ahead of us the first of two large regions of fallen rock. These take longer to cross than regular trails. 

Crossing large regions of fallen rock

By this time there was some cloud cover, so I was glad for a small window of sunshine to photograph the back of this valley. The jagged peak on the right is called Piz Grialetsch, from which the valley gets its name. And the stretch of snow below the peaks is the Grialetsch Glacier

Getting to the Swiss Alpine Hostel of Grialetsch took us about three hours, not the two hours claimed on the trail marker at the Pass! But the 1-1/4 to Dürrboden from here is about correct. 

The Grialetsch Hostel is undergoing a full renovation and is closed this year, which might be the reason that no one else was on the trail. We might have stopped here for something to drink. 

Continuing on to the next pass, the Fuorcla da Grialetsch, where the descent into the Dischma Valley starts

A look back to the Grialetsch Glacier. Here we are on the pass called Fuorcla da Grialetsch, at 2537m altitude

We were originally going to catch the 15:30 bus at Dürrboden, but by now we knew we weren't going to make it, so we took a long break near this lake at the Grialetsch Pass.  

Marmots were scampering along the hillside!

At the back of the Dischma Valley is the Scaletta Glacier. It's really not very big. Will probably disappear in a few years. 

Near the Scaletta Glacier we noticed an avalanche, which had most definitely been caused by that large boulder leaving a track and stopping in the middle of the mountainside.

The back of the Dischma Valley

As we descend from higher elevations, we see more flowers and other vegetation

The entire hillside here was covered in alpine roses

Also, more marmots!

Finally, rounding a corner we get the first view of the Dischma Valley which stretches Northwest to Davos

Down below is the farm called Dürrboden, which is the end of our hike. It is the final bus stop at the back of this valley.

VIDEO:

The beautiful Dischma Valley and Dischma River

And a landscape covered in Alpine Roses

A look back up the Dischma Valley. On the right is the Scaletta Pass, which we plan to cross another year, and on the left is the Scaletta Glacier. The whole valley bottom here is covered in alpine roses, although the colour is hard to see on this photo

The farm at Dürrboden. We got here at 16:20, with 40 minutes to spare for the 17:00 bus to Davos. We were going to have French Fries and Ice Cream Sundaes, but they had neither, so we waited near the stream instead.

A final look to the back of the Dischma Valley as we crossed the river onto the farm

Waiting near the river for the 17:00 bus

VIDEO:

Waiting at the Dischma River for the 17:00 Bus

The turquoise line shows our hike from the Flüela Pass to Dürrboden in the Dischma Valley. Last year (2020) we walked to the Jöri Lakes and down the Fless Valley to the Flüela Pass Road, and we also walked along the Dischma Valley. 

From the bus, a look up the Dischma Valley. 

We spent the night in Küblis in the Prättigau for easy access to the hike we wanted to do the next day. Before retiring, we did a little walkthrough of the village

Village of Küblis, where we spent the night.

Our hotel was actually right at the train station, so we had only a minute to get to the bus the next day. Here is a Glacier Express run heading through Küblis

The area of the Flüela Pass and the village of Küblis where we spent the night.