Freiämter Trail along the Lindenberg, from Hämikerberg to Auw

Saturday February 7, 2026 -- Lucky sunny day today, but really mostly only in the pastoral landscapes of Luzern, Aargau, Zug etc. near where we live. This is great for us as this is a region we prefer to walk in the winter months when the snow has melted in the low-lying areas, but usually there is lots of fog here. But not today!

The 11-km hike we walked was just somewhat a random pick, simply a do-able trail I mapped out on my interactive map in a region where we knew we could see the mountains (it turned out that a lot of clouds were hanging around the mountains this day) and where we wouldn't have any uphill stretches. So in effect a "stroll" with a view.

We started in the Seetal (Lake Valley) in an area we have been often, above Lake Baldegger and riding the bus to the final station at Hämikerberg, a small oasis in the upper moor plateau of the mountain called Lindenberg. This is in Canton Luzern, but a short walk to the top of the hill and we were in Canton Aargau. Walking along the quasi "crest" of this hill along what is called the Freiämterweg, we had views across the valley of the Reuss River, another region we are very familiar with. A few still icy spots in forested sections, but otherwise nice sunny and mild weather. We ended in a town with the funny name of Auw. Altogether we were out in the fresh air for four hours, and even though it took us almost two hours to our starting point, the trip back home was only 45 minutes!

PART I: Journey from Home into the Seetal Valley via Luzern: Always a nice trip!

Seetal = Valley of Lakes, with the pretty Baldegg and Hallwil Lakes, and always a treat to see the storks on the grounds of the former Baldegg Monastery. Above the lake is the Heidegg Castle known for its Rose Gardens--we have been there twice--and along the way to the starting point of the hike, we pass two interesting-looking church buildings which we have yet to discover (Part of the Seetal Chapel Trail, of which we have already discovered three of the ten featured chapels).  

Beautiful day for a change, as I make my way by train to Luzern, from Küssnacht am Rigi. As is often the case, there are clouds forming around the mountain peaks (here Mt. Pilatus), but at least there is no fog here for a change!

Changing trains in Luzern to catch the train into the Seetal (Lake Valley). 

Heading up the Seetal, a view to the Pilatus range. The summit is unfortunately in clouds now!

Every time we pass by here, we check the trees at the former Baldegg Monastery for the storks! (On a June 2024 hike I did starting here, I saw dozens of storks!)

There is a train stop right here in front of the gates of the former monastery in Baldegg (now a Secondary School for girls). There are always storks perched on the roof!

Heidegg Castle, renowned for its rose gardens. We have been here twice, once in March (too early) and the second time end of June 2022, toward the end of the bloom, unfortunately. 

Cool cloud formations!

At the Hitzkirch train station on the Luzern-Lenzburg line, we change to a bus that takes us all the way up the hill above Lake Baldegg (Baldeggersee). Some nice views of the lake on the way up. 

PART II: Hämikerberg: Two restaurants, a mini-golf course, historical houses....

In Canton Bern in Switzerland is a large open air museum called Ballenberg, where "samples" of houses from all around Switzerland are displayed for visitors to experience. Here in this little oasis called Hämikerberg is a collection of such historical houses, some about 500 years old, saved from destruction by an eccentric Luzern art collector named Anton Achermann (1914-1995), dismantled and erected here at this site. The site is nicknamed "Klein Ballenberg", or "Mini- Ballenberg", and it was quite appropriate!

We found no description of this monument, but it looks like a Roman soldier. On the other hand, one of the older houses, the Hämikerberg Gasthaus, on the right.  

Apparently, this site was originally intended to become a military training ground after WWII (not realized), but this canon has a different story. The idea of the "mini open air museum" was conceived by an eccentric art collector from Luzern who had a dispute with the city's government, so he erected this cannon (from 1882) pointing in the direction of the government buildings in Luzern! Luckily it can only shoot 11 km, and Luzern is further than that.  (https://www.hitzkirch.ch/portraet/ortsteile/haemikon.html/52)

This building, called the "Krienserhuus", dates from 1597, and is one of the original houses reconstructed by Anton Achermann. It is now privately owned (as are all the other houses) and the owners run a mini museum displaying what is left of the artworks collected by Achermann. 

Heading up onto the terrace of the Hämikerberg Alpstübli restaurant (they are currently on holiday so the restaurant is closed). Below you can see part of the mini-golf course that is a real attraction here (May to November). 

This is the Hämikerberg Gasthaus, currently closed for holidays (till February 18th)

I could not tell how old this pretty house is, but it is also privately-owned 

A look at the last house in the "Mini-Ballenberg" as we head out now at 11:10 along the main road toward the Freiamt Trail. 

PART III: The 11-km Hike in the Freiamt Region of Kanton Aargau

Although where we started in Hämikerberg is in Canton Luzern, we soon crossed the border into Canton Aargau on the valley side where the Reuss River runs northwards to join the Rhine River. We had some very nice views of a countryside we know well, as this is close to where we live! Unfortunately the mountain view was somewhat hidden by clouds, but otherwise a lucky break from all the fog...

After checking out the buildings at the end station of the bus in Hämikerberg, we started on our hike at 11:10, and got to Auw bus stop at about 15:00, with enough time to spare for the 15:13 bus to Sins. A short trip home, only 45 minutes. And we enjoyed over four hours of sunshine. 

It was really nice to be able to ride the bus all the way up here, to this wide open higher altitude plateau, with a view of the mountains and no notable amount of uphill to have to walk on our planned hike. Those mountains would be the long stretched-out range westward of Mt.Pilatus. 

A look behind us at the cluster of buildings which form the community called Hämikerberg. 

After only about 15 minutes of walking, we have joined this local trail called the "Freiämterweg", a large network of trails on the Aargau side of this mountain (which is called Lindenberg), covering a large region on both sides of the Reuss River here. We are headed toward Horben from where we will descend to Auw. 

We had a few nice sections of forest like this one, sundappled. 

We were surprised to find so much snow here, then found out this is actually part of a large network of cross-country ski trails here. Whereas further on in Horben all the snow is gone from the pistes, here the snow is packed down and receives less sunshine. It was slippery to walk here. 

After leaving the forest, we got the first glimpse of the Freiamt Region, low hills on either side of the Reuss River, as it makes its way northward from Luzern. We got here at 11:40 after walking for 30 minutes, and there was a convenient bench with this view, a great place for our lunch break. 

Continuing along the trail now at shortly after noon, after a 20-minute lunch break. This is all in Canton Aargau, where we are walking. But the border of Canton Zug is also nearby, and you can just barely make out Lake Zug in the far back, the light-blue strip. 

This beautiful bird (a kite) flew quite low over our heads. 

A view slightly northwards. That large city is called Muri, one of the larger communities here in the valley. (Second largest in the Freiamt region). This town was first mentioned in documents of around the year 900. 

This is a close-up of the famous Benedictine monastery in Muri, grounded by the Habsburg family in the year 1027. (The monastery was dissolved in 1841 and now serves as a care facility). We visited these grounds at the start of a hike we did in October 2020. 

These girls are out enjoying the sunshine as well! (In Switzerland, most barns allow the cows access to the outside in winter, if they so wish!)

More lovely forest trails

There were a couple of streams to cross, and a couple of trail sections that followed streams. 

At 12:45 we reached the little castle at Horben, where we had also been on a very similar hike almost exactly a year ago (photos are HERE). It is now privately-owned, but used to be a place of rest and recreation for the folks at the Muri Monastery.

This is the little St.Wendelin's Chapel next to the Horben Castle. There is a bench on the other side of the chapel where we took a break on that hike almost exactly a year ago (photo of that is HERE), but we did not stop there this time. 

Making our way downhill now, we are greeted by the worst cacaphony of sound you can imagine: This is a HUGE chicken farm, and hundreds of birds (you could mostly hear the roosters) were practicing their vocals and trying hard to outdo each other. I would not survive living in this region with this noise, that accompanied us for quite a while on this part of the hike. 

That is a really fun-looking tree! Further on we catch the first glimpse of the town of Auw, where we are ending our hike. 

To the south, Mt.Rigi comes into view. 

Below us is the town of Auw, the end of our hike. All those single trees we see will be really beautiful when the spring bloom comes!

Just slightly to the north is the town of Beinwil. We started just above this village on the February 2025 hike we did, also to the Horben castle and down the other side. But there is a church there that needs visiting, a pilgrim church and cultural building of National Importance, so we have to plan another hike that way. 

Close-up of Auw

Another stream to cross. 

A good view of the town of Auw now, on our final stretch to our destination. 

These snowbells were in someone's garden, as opposed to the forest. Nevertheless, it's just too early! There is sure to be another cold spell coming. 

Always something interesting to see in people's gardens!

Our standard cat interaction, as they always head over to Urs for some attention!

The town of Auw (we have no idea how this is pronounced!) is along the Freiämterweg, and the end of our walk. We came down from Horben, and in the other direction you can walk to Sins, a town on the Reuss River. We got here at 2:45 p.m., and no need to hurry, as the next bus out is at 3:13 p.m. 

Gasthof Hirschen in Auw. I took this photos because I was mostly interested in the sign that is hanging one the right side of the building....

....which is a very attractive decoration depicting a deer, i.e. "Hirsch" in German, thus "Gasthaus Hirschen". Also interesting is the date: 1788, which is how long this business has been operating as an inn. 

We had plenty of time to also visit the town's church: The parish church of St.Nicholas, built in 1705 in Baroque style. 

The interior of the St.Nikolaus parish church in Auw. Apparently the Baroque church was totally retrofitted inside in Rococo style in 1795. 

Details of the church interior

This is a dedication to a Catholic Nun named Maria Bernarda Bütler who was born here in this viallge on the 28th of May 1848. She lived the last part of her life in Columbia where she died on Mai 1924. Of note is that she was canonized as a saint on the 12th of October 2008 in Rome, which is unusual for women. 

This is what our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. It was an easy 11-kilometer walk in the pastoral landscape of Canton Aargau north of the Alps. 

This is the cute train station in Sins, where we connected from the bus to the train. In all, it was about 45 minutes to get home. 

A view of Mount Rigi as the train makes its way to Rotkreuz. 

This is what Mount Rigi looks like from the town of Küssnacht (I was staying in the house there, and this is on the bus ride there). 

All the hikes we have done in the Seetal and Freiamt regions. The Canton border between Luzern and Aargau runs right about where we were walking this day. The one we did this day is marked by the arrow. 

Location of the Lindenberg within Switzerland. 

This is the network of trails which comprises the Freiamt Region of southern Canton Aargau. We did our hike this day in the circled area, starting just above Müswangen and ending in Auw, although we did not go via Beinwil, unfortunately.