High Trail in the Urseren Valley from Realp to Hospental near Andermatt

Sunday June 21, 2026 -- With this ongoing heat there is no point in doing any low-elevation hikes, as even up high it is quite warm. But we still have more chance of a breeze and slightly lower temperatures (currently 33 degrees in the lower areas!) in the mountains.

Leaving home early once again (at 6:15), we traveled two hours to the town of Realp, high up in the Urseren Valley near the Gotthard Pass. From Realp, we walked back in the direction of Andermatt, with a plan to end at Hospental, the only other station between Realp and Andermatt, and the gateway to the popular Gotthard Pass Road.

On previous occasions we have walked the valley trail (August 2013) as well as the high trail on the north side of this beautiful valley (September 2014), so this time we walked the high trail on the south side of the valley, one we had not done before. The day was perfect, only a little hot at the start—even though it was only 8:30 a.m.—but otherwise a cool breeze, a stop at the restaurant in Zumdorf (claims to be the smallest village in Switzerland), and ending in Hospental with a visit to the tower ruins and the town church. And along the way, we watched both the Glacier Express train and the regional trains of the Gotthard-Matterhorn railway pass by below. The best part was the interaction with the cows who walked with us for part of our hike!

Interesting side note: Upon starting our hike in Realp, we saw a sign that read that the Furka road will be closed to regular traffic on June 27th from 7:30 to 8:45. I had read that there was going to be an event where only the very rich with their fancy cars would be crossing the pass road, which is famous for its appearance in the James Bond Movie "Goldfinger". Sure enough, this is the case. Apparently, each participant has to pay over 10,000 SFr. to do this, but that includes going over two different passes and an overnight in a posh Andermatt Hotel! (See also this WEBSITE)

PART I: 9-km Hike from Realp to Hospental

Leaving home early at 6:15 and heading to Goldau to meet up with Urs for the two-hour trip to Realp. This is the atmosphere at 6:30 in the morning! Very nice before it gets hot...

By 8:15 we are on the way along the Furka-Reuss River from Andermatt to Realp in the Urseren Valley. 

The train passes the little village of Zumdorf, which claims to be the smallest village in Switzerland. ("To be classified as a village, a settlement must have both a place of worship and a central meeting point". Zumdorf has a Church, Restaurant (maybe even two!) and a couple of residences). We stopped by here later for refreshments after walking on the trail higher up on the hillside. 

At 8:20 our train arrives in Realp, where we start our hike back in the direction of Andermatt. This is the site of both the entrance to the Furka Base Tunnel (where cars load onto a flatbed train and are ferried through the tunnel into Canton Valais), as well as the popular Furka Pass Road which features in the James Bond film "Goldfinger". 

Main street in Realp. We didn't head that way this time, as we have been here often. Fairly recently in August 2024, we had a 40-minute wait here for our bus to the Furka Pass (usually only 20 minutes, but the bus was running late) so we had time to look around into the church etc. 

This building is the former Furka Stagecoach station. 

View up to the jagged peaks on the north side of the Urseren Valley, as we start on our hike eastward. There were hundreds of sheep running around up there, and the bleating noise down here in the valley was pretty loud!

This was not a very long hike, just over 8 km and about three hours, with a couple of not-too-strenuous ascents. We started at 8:30 in Realp, and reached Hospental at 1 p.m., ultimately catching the 13:41 train for the two-hour trip back home. 

The first part of the hike is along a valley-bottom trail, one which we have walked before on our August 2013 hike from Realp to Andermatt all along the valley bottom. You can see the zigzag road at the back, which heads up to the Furka Pass. 

A zoomed view looking back at the town of Realp. 

It was already getting warm, so we stopped inside this little mountain chapel to change into shorts. A date inscribed over the door indicates that the chapel was built in 1685, but the interior was "gutted", possibly renovations happening soon? The avalanche wedge on the north side is interesting, as such wedges offer protection to buildings in these mountains. 

Later we are crossing the river and heading up the hill on the right. But first we are headed to a small hamlet called Steinbergen. 

In the Steinbergen hamlet, I saw this carved bear, so needed a photo of Urs next to the bear. Turns out this is a chimney from a smoke-house!

Looking behind us at the little Steinbergen hamlet as we head across the Furka-Reuss River. 

The Furka-Reuss River has its source on this side of the Furka Pass, and joins the Gotthard-Reuss River at Hospental, then continues on as the Reuss River, one of Switzerland's four major rivers. 

A look to the west to the Furka road, heading up to the Furka Pass. 

In the five hours we spent up here, we saw several trains of the Gotthard Matterhorn Railway passing up and down the valley, mostly the regional train such as this one, and also the fancy Glacier Express train. 

Enjoying all the pretty meadow flowers!

Our first short uphill stretch to the higher trail on the south side of the valley. 

This was the funnest part of our day, a small herd of young cows which seemed very happy to see us!

We were guests in their pasture, and these heifers are always very curious!

VIDEO:

Urs walked up ahead, but all the little heifers followed me and came up real close!

In effect, they then all passed me and followed Urs instead. 

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They were so cute! (In the background you can see the town of Realp).

All the cows passed by me and hurried to catch up with Urs, who prefers to keep his distance from mountain cows! But they followed him along the hiking trail, until we all ended up at a little side stream, where they had a good drink on this hot day!

VIDEO:

The little cows are following Urs to their water source!

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This is as far at they can go, on the far side of their mountain pasture! Down below is the little church and the hamlet of Steinbergen where we had walked earlier. 

Looking up the Urseren Valley to Realp and the Furka-Reuss River below, as well as the train tunnel. And all those girls are looking so longingly at us, wishing they could follow us!

This was a really pleasant trail to walk, with great views and lots of meadow flowers, and a cool breeze. Side note: Everything is really green right now! Usually we do these mountain hikes later in the summer, when the slopes are already starting to get brown. 

I was also quite excited that the hillsides were full of alpine roses, many bushes which were in full bloom! 

Down below, another regional trail is on its way along the valley bottom. The large gravel "factory" is across from the little village called Zumdorf, which we are now descending back down to. 

Along the way were a few overgrown sections on the trail!

Having walked higher up along the hillside on the left, we are now back down at the valley bottom near Zumdorf. 

Approaching the village of Zumdorf now at 10:15, where we are taking a break with refreshments at the village restaurant. There is a church here and a couple of residences, which gives it the official designation of "village", and the claim to be the smallest village in Switzerland. 

Urs would have like an ice cream sundae, as is his "tradition", but they only offered apple cake, so we simply had a cold panaché on this hot day. (They are expecting a large party for lunch and the restaurant will be closed to the public this day). The address of the restaurant is "No.1 Zumdorf" !!!!

This cute little doggo was so funny, peeking out of the restaurant window. He came to visit us later at our table in the shade. 

Heading off again at 10:50, this is the view down the valley from in front of the little church. 

A quick look into the Zumdorf village church: St. Nicholas, tucked away among the few buildings here. 

More flowering alpine roses!

At 11:10, another regional train passes by! (These trains are so much better than the expensive Glacier Express trains, as there are fewer passengers, and all but the middle wagon have windows which you can open and lean out and take better photos!)

Leaving Zumdorf, we had to head up the hill on the steepest part of our hike, which was only about 150 meters of altitude and wasn't too difficult. 

Such pretty flowers!

Nearly back up on the high trail again. On the far left we can see a mountain peak with a glacier. I believe this is called the Galenstock, and tucked away near the foot of that mountain is the Albert-Heim Mountain Hostel, which you cannot see from here. Almost exactly a year ago, on June 29, 2025, we hiked to the Albert-Heim Hostel and walked to a small lake just below the glacier. 

Close-up view of Mt.Galenstock and the Tiefen Glacier. 

Another view up the Urseren Valley and another view of the Tiefen Glacier. On that June 2025 hike to the Albert-Heim Hostel, we then descended from there to Realp, through the large square piece of forest you can see on the otherwise bare hillside. These forests are planted as avalanche protections. 

At 11:44, another regional train passes below. It is heading in the direction of Realp, and the locomotive is actually "pushing" the train, instead of pulling it.

VIDEO:

The little regional trail heads westward along the Urseren Valley

(as we approach a spot where we had our lunch with views of Andermatt)

At shortly after the noon-hour we found this perfect place for our lunch-break, with a view toward Andermatt and the very lovely viaduct bridge over the Furka-Reuss River below.  

While enjoying our lunch, we watched another local train of the Gotthard-Matterhorn Railway pass over the bridge, on its way to Hospental/Andermatt. 

The trains cross in Hospental, so just a few minutes later, we spotted the Glacier Express train, heading in our direction, i.e. toward Realp. 

VIDEO:

Glacier Express Train crosses the little bridge over the Furka-Reuss River

The Glacier Express train crosses the Furkareuss River on its way toward Realp. (This train is very popular with tourists, and they have to pay a very high reservation fee. The windows are large but cannot be opened, and sometimes it gets very hot in there). 

There were several such bridges crossing very many streams coming down this side of the mountain. 

Another view of Andermatt, which is located at the junction of the Schöllenen Gorge on the left, and the Oberalp Pass on the right. The Glacier Express and the regional trains pass along a fabulous zigzag track up to the pass and then down into the Surselva Region of Canton Graubünden on the other side. (We are in Canton Uri). Our trail passes through those large "boulders" below. 

Some interesting rocks here. Did these boulders fall down the mountain at some point?

We are nearing our destination of Hospental now. Up ahead we can see the old fortress tower. (Hospental is the only other train stop between Realp and Andermatt, and we are going to board the train here, but we have enough time to visit the town and the tower). 

That little building is the base station of a former chairlift which served these hills in the ski season. Urs says he used to come up here with his dad, but there was no bus, so they had to hike up to here with their skis from the train station in Hospental. The chair lift is no longer in operation. 

Next to the Gotthard Pass road at a busy corner in the road, an enterprising business has set up a sales stand with locally-made products, mainly cheeses and sausage. The lady manning the stand is employed by the local shops. She has a generator to keep the goods cool, and an umbrella for shade. Urs bought some dried Yak sausage. The flag is from Canton Uri. 

PART II: Stroll around the town of Hospental and train back to Göschenen

The first building we reached in Hospental is the St.Karl Chapel, and adjoining living quarters (Benefice House). 

Translated from the Internet: "The *Pfrundhaus* (benefice house) and the St. Karl Chapel were built in 1717–18 in the upper part of the village of Hospental. The chapel was consecrated in 1727; it features ceiling paintings as well as stonework made of local soapstone at the southern windows." The building received extensive renovations in 2002/2003.

Details of the St.Karl's Chapel. Above the entrance is a text which translates to: "Here the path divides, O friend—where do you go? Will you journey down to eternal Rome? Down to holy Cologne, to the German Rhine, far westward into the land of the Franks?".
Very appropriate as from here, you head south over the Gotthard Pass toward Italy, northwards via the Schöllenen Gorge into the Reuss Valley and ultimately toward the Rhine, and to the West in the direction of France. (Plus eastward as well, via the Oberalp Pass!)

Looking down the main road before heading up to the tower on the left. 

Hospental tower. I was here once in 1988 when it was just four walls and an opening at the top. Now there is a staircase inside to a platform at the top, which is where we are going. 

Heading around the tower to the entrance. 

View of the town of hospental from in front of the tower. 

View to the west where we had walked from. 

Platform at the top of the tower, looking toward Andermatt. 

Looking down now at the rooftops of Hospental, the parish church which we are headed to afterwards, and the Furka-Reuss River to the north. 

Directly to the south, the Gotthard road heads up toward the Gotthard Pass. I have walked down this valley from the Gotthard Pass twice now, once in September 2015 and most recently in August 2024, although at that time we didn't have extra time to visit the town. 

The tower in Hospental is the defining landmark of the Urseren Valley. It was built in 1277 and served as watchtower over the Gotthard Pass route, which saw a lot of traffic in the 13th Century. For many centuries the tower remained empty, just four walls and open at the top. But in 2021-2022, with financial support from sponsors, a formidable set of steel steps was built inside the tower to give access to its history, and the views from the top. 

Back down in the village. We have passed here often by train and bus, but never really had a look at the town. 

One attractive house after the other as we walk down the main road in Hospental. 

Pretty windows and pretty window boxes on this pizzeria. 

Continuing down the main street. 

Main square with the typical town fountain. 

We then took the necessary detour to have a look at the second church in the town, i.e. the one we had seen from the tower. Translated from the Internet: "The Church of the Assumption of Mary replaced a chapel that was first mentioned in 1448 and destroyed in a village fire in 1669. The present-day church was built between 1706 and 1708, although the church tower was not completed until 1731."

Interior of the Hospental parish church. 

Interior of the Hospental parish church. 

Details of the interior of the Hospental parish church. 

A very old house (the text next to the main door reads that the house was built in 1672, restored in 1989-1990, and placed under federal and cantonal monument protection) and two restaurants across from each other: "Sternen" and "Schäfli". 

Gästehaus Schäfli.... "Schäfli" means "Little Sheep". 

The lovely St.Gotthard Hotel and restaurant in the center of town. 

These are the hikes we have done to date in the Urseren Valley, as well as the walks we did down from the Gotthard Pass (pink) and from Oberalp Pass (yellow). 

Waiting in the 13:41 train for the crossing here... the other train heading westward was a few minutes late, as the most recent Glacier Express train heading to Andermatt was also running late. Still, it's only a two-hour trip home with this connection. (Others take 30 minutes longer). 

A look back at the Hospental tower as our train makes its way to Andermatt. 

By 13:50 we are already in Andermatt, and can remain in the train as it continues down through the Schöllenen Gorge to Göschenen. 

Always impressive to pass the Devil's Bridge in the Schöllenen Gorge, before the train heads into the tunnel. 

Arriving into Göschenen Station at 14:05. 

This is the Reuss River as it descends from Andermatt through the Schöllenen Gorge. 

After arriving in Göschenen, we only had to wait a few minutes for the train heading north. From here the rest of our trip was another 90 minutes, and we were home by 3:45 p.m.! 

A familiar sight here in the Reuss Valley: The town of Wassen with its church on the hill, which you see three times from the train as it "weaves" back and forth here to gain/lose altitude. We ride this stretch often, and finally had a chance to visit the church in November 2025 when we started a hike here heading north. 

And always a pleasure to ride up along the east side of Lake Uri. 

Location of the Urseren Valley within Switzerland.