Surprised by a Thunderstorm on a Hike from Furka Pass to Realp

Tuesday August 4, 2026 -- This was maybe the unluckiest hike we ended up doing in my 13 years of average two hikes per week.... With this heat, we look to go to higher elevations, but there is always the risk of thunderstorms, and we absolutely avoid anywhere with possibility of thunderstorms.

But this Tuesday was to be the nicest day of the week, with lots of sunshine in the mountains, and on Monday evening the forecast for the Furka Pass was brilliant! But Tuesday morning early, now it's showing thicker cloud cover from noon on, but since we would be starting at 9 a.m. at the pass, and the hike was about four hours down to Realp via the Schwärzseeli lakes (we found out later this is the source of the Furka Reuss River!), we might be lucky to have sunshine for at least half the hike.

The first part of the hike to the lakes was perfect, and one we had done before in July 2022 when we did a two-day hike with overnight in the Rotondo Swiss Alpine Hostel (photos HERE). More sunshine than expected, and great views of the lakes, although the surrounding mountains were beset with low clouds. By 12:30 when we stopped for our picnic lunch, the weather prognosis had suddenly changed to... strong chances of rain and thunderstorms, starting about.... exactly now. Unfortunately we were high on an exposed mountain with no shelter, and we were the highest objects around, so for the next hour we basically ran down the steep mountainside in enough drizzly rain to get soaked, accompanied by lightning and thunderclaps.

But we made it back to the Realp train station by just before 3 p.m., wet but not dead, and for sure we "beat the heat" of the day. But of course by then the sun was out again.... Oh, and highlight was the sighting of two Griffon Vultures, so not totally a wasted hiking day. 

Leaving home early again at just after 6 a.m., we first ride the train to Andermatt, and then catch a bus toward the Furka Pass. Here we are riding through Hospental, where we had recently ended a hike on June 21 (photos HERE). 

The old fortress tower in Hospental. 

Riding up the Urseren Valley toward the Furka Pass. There is a lovely high trail on the north side of the valley, one which we have hiked in September 2014. 

As we are traveling by bus this time instead of by train, we get a different view of the viaduct over the Furkareuss River, which we have crossed so many times now by train. 

That's the little chapel we walked past on our June 21 hike to Hospental this year!

And now the bus picks up quite a few additional people here in Realp. (There was a train connection from Andermatt and they had to wait here for about 20 minutes, but we got better seats by getting on the bus where it starts in Andermatt!)

A view down the Furka Pass Road as the bus makes its way up toward the pass. It is getting quite cloudy and I am disappointed that the weather forecast had been for lots of sunshine. 

Just barely visible on the north side of the valley is a long line of sheep heading up to higher pastures. 

I was quite disappointed that the clouds had moved in, as the weather forecast from the day before was for pure sunshine. But we had come this far, so we figured we'd just go ahead as planned. This is the view back down into the Urseren Valley in the direction of Andermatt. 

Ahead of us the weather is still looking promising. This is a view down to the original Furka Railway Line (still in operation as a tourist line with steam trains in summer). The other time we walked from the Furka Pass to Realp was down this valley (Photos HERE, where we were able to observe the steam train) but this time we are going around the mountain on the left. 

On these narrow pass roads the bus has the right of way, and other cars are supposed to back up to a point where the bus can pass comfortably. But as there were three or more cars lined up, the bus did not want to wait and simply SQUEEZED past this very expensive looking car without a care in the world. I was sure the mirror would come off. And the driver didn't look too happy!

A look behind us at the winding Furka Pass Road. 

At 9:13 we got off the bus at the Furka Pass (It is getting absolutely out of hand how many campers and RV's park here for the night). At this point we are expecting quite a nice hike, as there was enough sunshine, and definitely not too hot!

We knew it was going to be a four-hour hike to Realp, passing by the lakes at the "Stotzigen Firsten". We were hoping the cloud cover would hold off till at least the half-way point, but there was at least no rain in the forecast at all.... (Side note, back in July 2022 we did a two-day hike from here with overnight in the Rotondo Hostel, so the first part of this trail we had walked once before). 

Just as we start on our trail toward the south, we get a fantastic view into the Grimsel Alps to the west (including the lakes at the Grimsel Pass). The Furka Pass is the border between Canton Uri here to the east, and Canton Valais to the West, but those mountains also form the border between Canton Valais and Canton Bern, i.e. the Bernese Oberland. There are definitely clouds in the mountains this day (with possibility of thunderstorms due to the heat). 

A look back at the Grimsel Pass Road and the Furkablick Hotel, from where we started our descent toward Realp on the July 2023 hike. 

This fantastic hike maps at over four hours of straight walking. We started at 9:15 at the Furka Pass, got to the pass at Stotzigen Firsten at 11:30, got caught in the rain at the little lake at 12:30 at about the half-way point, and then practically ran down the rest of the mountain to reach Realp just before 3 p.m. So for us, 5½ hours with lots of time spent at the Blauberg Lakes. 

On this uphill stretch toward the lakes, we get a good look down to the valley bottom where the original Furka Railway (now operated only in summer) runs. 

An upper moorland, always pretty. 

Directly to the north and above the Furkapass road you can see a glacier, called the Sidelen Glacier. Not visible on this photo is a stand-alone hostel below that glacier, at an altitude of 2700 meters. We visited that hostel in August 2019. 

Close-up view of the Sidelen Glacier. 

Now we have arrived at the first of three lakes up here. The water is beautifully clear and turquoise in colour. 

The cottongrass is always pretty. 

So far, not a bad day, and very pleasant up here at an altitude of 2620 meters above sea level. 

We have walked this particular trail before in July 2022, but had not made a detour to the third of the three lakes, just below the mountain called Blauberg, so that is were we are headed now. 

Meandering around the three lakes up here. 

This is the second of the three lakes, through which the waters from the upper lake flow, and then down into the valley. Unfortunately those two people were also headed to the third lake, and they were chatting very loudly, which I always find annoying in the mountains. 

I had never seen so many silver thistles in one place in the mountains!

Walk around the uppermost of the three lakes, at the foot of a mountain called Blauberg. It is here that the waters that create the Furkareuss River originate. 

We spent a bit of time at the upper lake, about 40 minutes, before continuing on our hike. Another view of the mountains to the north and the Furka Pass road. The clouds in that direction actually look pretty!

And here I am standing at the waters that form one of the sources of the might Reuss River. Here it is called the Furkareuss, which flows down the east side of the Furka Pass, past Realp and the Urseren Valley, where it meets the main source called the Gotthard Reuss at Hospental, before continuing northwards as the Reuss River, eventually flowing into Lake Lucerne and from there into the Rhine River. 

Another 100 meters of altitude to climb to the pass. 

As we head up to the pass at Stotzigen Firsten, we get views back down at the first lake. 

Even in this barren landscape, we come across some colour!

At 11:30 we have reached the pass, and are now up at 2745 meters above sea level! With a view of the two upper lakes below the mountain called Blauberg. 

It was up to this point that we had already hiked once before in July 2022 on our way to the Rotondo Hostel (3½ hours from here! We overnighted there). This time we are headed to Realp, also still a long way to go, at over 2½ hours. We are still hopeful that the weather will hold for this next part of the hike. 

This is the terrain ahead of us now to the northeast, heading downwards now, but no shelter far and wide. 

Directly to the south are the mountains that form the border with Canton Wallis (and more to the left/east also the Canton Ticino). The glacier there is called the Mutten Glacier. We have to face the fact that the clouds are looking pretty dark there!

A long stretch across this lovely terrain, which was almost like a very exquisite carpet. 

Oh, and then we got a real treat. Two very large birds above us, which we were sure were vultures of some kind. Upon later research, these were confirmed to be Griffon Vultures. 

We were treated to the sight of two Griffon Vultures!

Information from the website Vogelwarte.ch about the Griffon Vulture. They were the people who confirmed that these were the birds we had seen. 

After 45 minutes of walking from the pass, we spotted this flock of roaming sheep, and some small lakes which looked like the perfect spot for our picnic lunch, as it was now 12:15. 

Once again, we are being critically observed!

Making our way to the small lakes, and looking for a good place to sit to eat our sandwiches. There were very many sheep, and then all scooted out of our way!

At 12:30, after having barely had a bite, I wanted to check my phone to see how far we still had to walk. Lo and behold, how the "forecast" suddenly changed from just before we started (9 a.m., showing potential thunderstorm but no chance of rain... and earlier that morning i.e. 6 a.m. showing sunshine till noon), now at 12:30 expected rain??? Barely had I looked at this, and it started to rain. Hoping it would only be a little rain then hold off to 3 p.m., the "forecast" changed again, and it rained for the next hour or more.... 

Hurrying along now, we pass another cute little pond along the way! (For a short time the rain stopped). 

We round a corner before the steep descent, and get a view of the glaciers to the west, toward the Furka Pass. I believe this is the Galenstock, with a different view of the Siedelen Glacier on the left, and the larger Tiefenglacier on the right. 

I was really looking forward to seeing this view with sunshine, and not through drizzly rain! Here we have a steep descent down to the FurkaReuss River, and can see the Furka Pass road going up from Realp. 

A perfect view down onto the Furka Pass Road. Too bad we couldn't have a better view, as we won't be doing this hike again... 

A look up the valley now toward the Furka Pass, where the Furkareuss River descends toward Realp, and where the old Furka Railway lies. (By now we are soaked through, even though the rain was really quite light). 

We made quick work of the steep descent! Several times there were lightning flashes and thunder claps very close.... and we are the tallest objects far and wide!

The fellow who takes care of the sheep up the mountains caught up to us as we hurried down the trail. 

Another view up toward the Furka Pass. The sun is shining on the other side of the Pass!

Almost down now we reach a more bucolic landscape, and the cows are questioning what we are doing in this unfriendly weather!

Ah, finally made it to a paved road, and the rain has stopped. A nice look back into another valley... (We had come down from the mountainside on the right). 

It's actually easier to walk on the paved road now. 

We've now reached a place where we've walked before, when we did the valley hike from the Furka Pass. Down below is the Furkareuss River. 

Instead of following the paved road, we were able to cross a bridge and continue on a nice grassy path, with this view up the Furkareuss River. 

VIDEO:

Furkareuss River near Realp.

Final stretch along the Furkareuss River, past the Steam Train Depot. (The last time that we descended here in July 2023 we simply walked along the paved road, but this was better). 

The rain clouds have moved down the valley, but this looks pretty neat!

Crossing back over the river to the train station in Realp at 14:50, with plenty of time for the 15:05 train. Oh, and now the sun is shining here.... 

We are now returning to Andermatt with the 15:05 train from the Matterhorn-Gotthard Railway. In all it's a 2½-hour trip back home from here in Realp. 

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps, starting at 9:15 at the Furka Pass, and ending in Realp at just before 3 p.m., after getting caught in a thunder storm about half-way along our hike (where we had just stopped for our lunch break). 

The lovely stone bridge near Hospental on the way back to Andermatt by train. 

All the hikes we have done in the region around Realp and the Furka Pass. Back in July 2023 we also started at the Furka Pass and walked down to Realp, but in the lower valley along the old railway line. 

Where the Furka Pass is located within Switzerland.