Hiking in Switzerland – Gabrielle and Urs: April 2022

April 27, 2022

The Highest Vineyards in Europe and a 500-year old Irrigation Channel near Visp

Wednesday April 27, 2022 -- After having discovered the endangered flower Adonis Vernalis, which grows in only two places in Switzerland (those photos can be viewed HERE), we traveled by bus and train an hour from Turtmann to Visp in the Valais, to do our second excursion of the day: A walk along the 7-km long irrigation channel called Visperi Suon (first mentioned in documents from 1521, so built 500 years ago!)

A year ago we had spent three days in the area, at Visperterminen in the Vispa Valley, and at that time we did a great hike into the highest vineyard in Europe, the Heida vineyards, which cover a height of 500m up to 1150 m above sea level. (Those photos HERE). Today, we decided to start where we ended last year, and to continue through the vineyard before reaching the start of the irrigation channel near the hospital in Visp.

We had read about some dizzying sections with vertical drops along the Visperi Suon and were looking forward to some excitement... As it turns out, it was a pretty tame irrigation channel hike for us, compared to others we have done. (The vertical drops were not so high, and screened by outward-growing bushes, so that probably lessened the effect).

Along the way we got a good look at the Lonza industrial compound, the largest employer in this area. We were not far above the freeway which passes through here, so had the constant noise of industry and motor-vehicle traffic along the way.

At the far end of the channel we descended back to the valley bottom and followed the 850m-long Gamsen Letzi Wall to the bus stop along the main road. This once-magnificent wall (two meters wide and six meters high) was built in the Middle Ages (between 1352 and 1355) as a defense fortification. Many parts of it are still intact.

Together with the first 1.5-hour walk we did in Turtmann in the morning, we did a total of 13 kms of walking in about 4 hours.

Heading up to the starting point of our hike, this is the view over the city of Visp from the bus window

A look up the Vispa Valley as we head toward the starting point of our hike (toward the left). The mountain massif in the back is called the Mischabel Group, and it contains the highest mountain in Switzerland that is 100% on Swiss terrain (Mt.Dom, 4545m)

Here is the place we ended our hike last time. We wanted to start from here this time.

The trail heads through the Heida Vineyards of Visperterminen, the highest vineyards in Europe (at least till 2019, it could be that there is now a higher one).

Of the 8.5 km we walked along this stretch, about 7 km are along the irrigation channel. You can see where it is located by the steady slow incline of the graph. It looks flat when you walk it, but it has just enough rise for the water to flow well.

Above me the vineyards stretch up in fantastic terraces for a total height difference of 500m !!!!

Information panels along the way, about viniculture in the area. This one is specifically about the building of the fabulous stone walls which support the terraces. "One square meter of dry stone wall requires one tonne of stones"!!! A benefit of the stone walls is that they absorb and retain heat which then emanates back into the ground at night and in the late fall.

The short section through the vineyard goes just around the corner to the right. Below is the very expensive freeway bypass through the mountain, which was supposed to be completed in 2019, but it's still not finished! (Started in 2015). It has also ended up costing a whole lot more than originally planned

A look back at the terraces

We found a picnic table where we had our lunch. This was the view South down the Vispa Valley toward the Mischabel Massif.

And this was the view North toward the city of Visp and the Rhone Valley

Near the start of the irrigation channel trail, the sign informs us that we still have 2 hours and 15 minutes to walk until our bus stop in Gamsen. It didn't take us that long, though.

A look down at the houses of old town Visp, from the channel trail

Staring out along the Visperi irrigation trail. This water channel was first documented in 1521, so it is over 500 years old!

We could hear the hammer from quite a way off. The point of this mechanism is that it gives off a regular hammering sound as the water turns the paddles, indicating that the water is flowing properly. If the locals below don't hear the hammering, they know they have to go clean the channel from debris

VIDEO:

Hammer working on the irrigation channel

to indicate that the water is flowing properly

On the sections which were narrow or had a vertical drop, there were hand-holds for safety

The sign says "Do not stop along the way", and Urs takes this very seriously!

Down below is the large industrial complex of the Lonza Company

Not to forget, that this water channel was carved out of vertical rock face over 500 years ago!

Looking eastward up the Rhone Valley. The river is more of a wide channel here. And there is a lot of noise from the vehicle traffic along the freeway below. Nevertheless, we love to hike these mountainsides (especially on the other side) in early Spring, because it is warmest here!

A tamer part of the water channel

At this point the water is diverted to another irrigation channel further down the hill

This irrigation channel was carved out of the vertical cliff wall 500 years ago

VIDEO:

Walking along the Visperi irrigation channel (can be watched here or on YouTube)

The water drips down the cliff face here and has left calcium deposits.

Calcium deposits from water dripping down the cliff walls

Coming to the end of the section of the water channel before heading down to the Gamsen Letzi Wall

Still a few blossoming trees

The Letzi Wall. It used to be two meters wide and 6 meters high!

Here you can see how wide the defense wall was.

This was was built between 1352 and 1355 and many parts of it are still intact!

850-meter long Gamsen Wall

Last year around this time we did a hike from Visperterminen to the Heida Vineyards, and ended on the road below the vineyard. This time we started where we had left off, and walked along the 7-km long Visperi Irrigation Channel to Gamsen.

Back at the Visp train station, I was able to get a beautiful close-up photo of the Mischabel Massif.

The Rare Adonis Vernalis Flower in the Turtmann Valley

Wednesday April 27, 2022 -- On this day, we ended up doing TWO hikes! (in Canton Valais again, where the weather is simply warmer at this time of year).

We had heard of a rare flower called the Adonis Vernalis (Yellow Pheasant's Eye) which grows only in two very small regions of Switzerland in the wild, and which flowers in March to May. A friend had recently been there and told us they were in full bloom, so even though the trip (again) to Canton Valais takes three hours each way, we figured we should go now, or it might be too late.

The two places where you can find the flower are in Saxon (too far for a day trip) or Turtmann, at the entrance of the Turtmann Valley, easy for us to access. For the latter, there is a three-hour themed trail hike which takes you from one meadow on the West side of the valley entrance, into the valley, and back out via the second meadow on the East side. As we have been in this valley many times, we decided it would be sufficient to visit one meadow. It was a one-hour loop and we were really thrilled with the lovely bunches of bright-yellow flowers growing in bushes with dill-type greenery.

On our return to the village of Turtmann, we did the extra loop to the waterfall where the Turtmänna River drops from the valley above, before heading out to Visp (one hour by public transit) where we did the second hike of the day, along the Visperi Irrigation Channel between Visp and Brig... (Those photos to follow).

Interesting note about the Adonis Vernalis: It is a very poisonous plant, containing cardio-stimulant compounds, with a history of use in European and Chinese Folk medicine, especially in Russia where the demand is great. Overharvesting has caused it to become endangered in the wild, and many European countries have made it illegal to pick these flowers, or have put limits on the amounts that can be harvested.

First off: Here are some photos from the train trip down to Canton Valais, via Bern and Kandersteg, and the Lötschberg Basis Tunnel, which exits just short of the city of Visp.

Mt. Niesen near the city of Spiez

Blümlisalp above Kandersteg

Having changed trains in Visp, we head West along the Rhone Valley. On the left is the gorge which is the entrance to the Turtmann Valley. You can just see the chapel on the right on the hillside where the flowers are

First we have to walk 15 minutes from the train station into the village of Turtmann. Ahead of us we see the Chästlera Chapel and the hillside where the Adonis flowers grow

Village church in Turtmann

City Hall building in Turtmann

A lovely house which is actually more in the style of Canton Graubünden.

Our trail takes us up the hill past the small building. This was built in 1708 as a sort of "club house" for marksmen. It is under Cantonal Heritage Protection.

The Loop Trail which passes through the fields of flowers is marked "Adonispfad" = Adonis Trail

The path we walked on the search for the Adonis flower. After the loop trail, we then walked to the back of the gorge to look at the waterfall, and then we returned to the cable car station to catch the bus to Leuk and Visp for our second excursion

As we hoped, we found the hillside below the chapel to be full of the bunches of Adonis flowers.

A particularly nice bush of Adonis Vernalis. The flower is protected in Switzerland since 1944.

A most beautiful luminous yellow!

Getting up close to the rare flower. Because they grow in bunches like this, it is easy to walk through the meadow without stepping on them.

The flower is protected here since 1944. It is forbidden to pick, dig up or otherwise damage the plants. As beautiful as the flower is, it is very poisonous! (Which actually helps it keep safe from goats which might otherwise graze on the hillsides).

Looking back up the Rhone Valley. Just 10 days earlier, we hiked on the hillside on the opposite side of the valley (above Urs' head on this photo).

Little bunches of Adonis Vernalis

A nice self-timed photo, but from now on I know to watch out where Urs' shadow is!

A look down the Rhone Valley. Just ahead is the Pfyn-Finges Nature Reserve, which includes the largest contiguous pine forests in the Alps. We spent Aug.1st here last year.

Heading away from the chapel to continue along the Adonis Loop Trail.

These Val Hérens cows (Ehringer) are native to Canton Valais. They are firm and stocky, bred for meat and not for milk.

Heading back down to Turtmann

The other meadow is on the hill upper left, and one can do a 3-hour hike from one meadow to the other, passing through the valley above the waterfall. We're heading to the waterfall.