August 6, 2023

Sagno to Bruzella in the Muggio Valley, and the Summit of Monte Bisbino in Italy

Sunday August 6, 2023 -- So far August weather has left a lot to be desired, and we hadn't done any hikes yet (besides my being out of the country for three days). On this weekend, the weather was only good once again in Canton Ticino, with lots of rain and cold temperatures up in our area. 

We did another 4½-hour hike on a small mountain ridge just east of Monte Generoso and the Muggio Valley along the Italian border. The main goal of this hike was to walk to the summit of Monte Bisbino, which is a peak in Italy just West of Lake Como. In fact, we got a couple of really nice looks down at the lake and the city of Como.

Having just been on Monte Generoso a couple of weeks earlier (those photos are HERE), it was interesting to look at the region where we had hiked, from the opposite side of the Muggio Valley.

It wasn't really a spectacular hike, and most of it was through the dense Ticino forests, which was fine on this day so we never got too hot. We ascended altogether more than 700 meters which was a real surprise, as it really didn't seem that difficult. Even the 4½-hour hike didn't seem that long, probably because it wasn't hot, and our feet had recovered from the two 5-hour hikes we did the weekend before!

Interesting side note: On our hike on Monte Generoso we had learned of a unique construction called a Nevera, which was used for centuries to preserve milk and cheese over the summer months by packing a deep cellar with snow. On this walk we passed through a farm called Loasa, where they only just recently built a similar structure. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough snow last year to actually put it to use yet (so we were told). 

On the bus ride into the Muggio Valley from Mendrisio, the view on this day is all the way to the Alps in Canton Valais, about 100 kilometers to the west. 

We had a good laugh when we got off the bus at the final station in the village of Sagno (on the mountain above Chiasso and right near the Italian border) as the bus driver put his bus away in the shed!!!!

A quick look into the Sagno village church.

And this is a view across the rooftops of Sagno. Our trail started at the bus stop heading uphill, and I kind of wish we had walked through the village first (it would have been a very small detour). We started the hike here at 9:30

A sign in Sagno indicated a 2-hour hike to the summit of Monte Bisbino (we got there at 11:45 after having started at 9:30). Then it took us 30 minutes to get back to the junction from where it was another 2¼ hours to Bruzella, so almost five hours, in fact. We got to Bruzella bus stop at abut 3:30 p.m.

About 40 minutes uphill through the forest and we reached the Italian border. I am currently straddling the border, Italy on the left, Switzerland on the right. 

Continuing along the crest of a small hill parallel to the border, we came to the clearing at the top after about an hour (400 meters) and got another superb view over the entire Mendrisiotto region in Switzerland, looking west. The towns in the center and the hills further back are in Italy. 

A close-up look at the Monte Rosa Massif in Canton Valais, where the highest mountains in Switzerland are located. (In between here and there is Italy). 

And at the back of the Muggio Valley is Monte Generoso, where we walked above the treeline three weeks earlier --> HERE

Heading along the ridge toward Monte Bisbino 

Looking down on the Italian side to the south end of Lake Como and the city of Como. Everything in the background is Italy. 

An easy level stretch!

At the junction leading to Monte Bisbino, about 30 minutes from here. 

First an easy level trail, but then we had a pretty steep uphill climb to the summit, about 160 meters

A couple of buildings along the way. 

Summit of Monte Bisbino. There is a weather station here and a small restaurant, and a sanctuary where there was currently a mass in progress, so I couldn't get a good look on the inside. We were surprised at how many people drive up here from the Italian side for a church service. 

To the south, another view of Lake Como

Close-up look at the city of Como, where we have also been several times. (Once we traveled there just for Gelato!). One such outing was in December 2017, photos HERE

To the north is a region we hiked in August 2018, looking for emerald lizards. The small peak on the right is called Sasso Gordona, and is also in Italy, we hiked up there starting in Cabbio in the Muggio Valley and passed below the peak, returning down a different valley to Muggio. 

Heading down the stairs to a bench near the parking lot, where we had our picnic lunch.

Our view to the west from our picnic bench. The first ridge across the valley is the one we walked along, from the left. 

There's the bench where we had our picnic lunch, with a view for miles and miles south across Italy. I find it so weird that the mountains stop right here, and it becomes flat. It's as if someone once said: "Let's leave all the mountains in Switzerland"

Heading back down from Monte Bisbino, here we are still in Italy. No border controls....

Back in Switzerland we returned along a higher trail, having come past those buildings on our way up. 

Heading back to the junction, where we continued to the right. The farmers were busy cutting the grass up here.

In the back is Monte Generoso, where we were a couple of weeks earlier. From here we can take the quick trail to Bruzella (1 hour) or the longer trail (2 hours 15 minutes) passing through Alpe Loasa. We took the latter, as it was a nice day for hiking, and we had nothing but bad weather to get back to!

The forests in Ticino are very, very dense! 

A lucky photo of a hummingbird moth

Heading south deeper into the valley beneath Monte Bisbino, it is here in this valley that the Breggia River has its source. (Where the Breggia River has carved out a gorge as it leaves the Muggio Valley near Mendrisio, it has exposed rock which is millions of years old)

At Alpe Loasa, which is kind of a hostel, we spoke to a young lady passing some quiet days here. She told us this Nevera was built in 2021, and has the same function as the very old ones we saw on Monte Generoso, but so far there has not been enough snow to fill it, so that it can be used as a refrigerator in summer. 

Past the farm at Alpe Loasa is a gateway to the lower trail out of the valley! There is only one trail, and it only leads to Bruzella!

A pleasant trail, heading north now.

A dark forest, perfect on a hot day...


We've turned the corner into the "Val dala Crota", heading west. It was about 3 kilometers through the forest. 

As we leave the forest, we now arrive at the junction of the Muggio Valley. 

Looking behind us at the trail we descended when leaving the forest

As we headed up the road to the "Madonna di Loreto" church, we surprised this little fellow! After staring at us for a bit, it hopped off to the right, although we were pretty sure we heard its mother on the left side of the trail. 

What pretty flowers!

The view from the chapel grounds up the Muggio valley is fantastic! In the back, on the left once again is Monte Generoso. Some think this is the prettiest valley in Switzerland. It's sure a local secret!

Details of the "Madonna di Loreto" Oratorio. 

From the chapel we followed a "Stations of the Cross" Trail for 10 minutes into the village of Bruzella

A nice detail on the house

Guarding the alleyway which we needed to descend!

Some lovely details

This house was totally overgrown in ivy. The north side was also completely full. 

Just past the church was the bus stop, but we had time to look into the church 

The church of San Siro in Bruzella. Very pretty. Apparently this is Late Baroque and Neo-Classical architecture. First mentioned in documents of 1579

Chiesa di San Siro, Bruzella

I wasn't able to take a photo of the village of Bruzella from the bus this time, so here is a photo of the village when we hiked out of the valley in 2017, actually starting here. 

These are the hikes we have done in the Muggio Valley, the Breggia Gorge, and around Mendrisio

Heading back out of the Muggio Valley, we had to change buses at Morbio Superiore. There was a lady, like me, who had to quickly peek into the church before the bus came!

Passing the fabulous church in Mendrisio on the way to the train station. 
And another look at Monte Generoso from the other side, from Lake Lugano, on the way to Lugano by train. 

This is the most southern part of Switzerland, and it extends into Italy, i.e. is surrounded on three sides by Italy. We have covered quite a bit of the area along the borders on foot by now. 

This was the weather all day in the north....



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