Short Hike along Pilatus Crest with fantastic Panorama Views

Friday September 29, 2023 -- Alternating long and short hikes, this one was a "short" one, because Urs had a commitment in the evening and we had to stay near home. The day was fantastic with particularly good air clarity, so we went to the summit of Mount Pilatus, which is fairly close to home. Having left early, there should have been enough time to complete the planned 3-hour hike along the crest of the mountain.

Early Friday morning, we weren't expecting too many tourists, but it just really never stops! When we got to the summit at 10:45, we heard an announcement that they were encouraging people to descend before 3 p.m., as it was going to be really busy by then.

We headed along the lovely cliff trail to the summit called Tomlishorn, a 30-minute walk mostly along a wide, level trail (at the end some uphill on a rough trail), a walk that many tourists and locals with families can easily manage, for some unforgettable 360-degree views. We were among the very few (for a while alone) who kept going on the crest trail, along a stunning ridge with vertical drops on the North side. As it turns out, we had to walk carefully, so it was taking us longer than expected, and not wanting to be caught in the crowds later, we broke off the hike within sight of our goal and headed back, to my disappointment. 

On the way back we also braved the crowds and went to the summit of the Tomlishorn. By the time we returned to the complex at Pilatus Kulm (restaurants, hotel), the terraces were crowded, but we had no problems with the 2 p.m. descent with the cable car, and were back home by 4 p.m.

Note: We saw ibex again! A small herd of young ones grazing on the north side of the mountain.

First section to Mount Pilatus summit on the north side is a gondola ride from Kriens (Luzern) to Fräkmündegg. (There were about as many tourists at this point, 10:30 a.m., as there were last time I was here. )

Second section from Fräkmündegg to Pilatus Kulm is a large-cabin cable car.

We got to the Pilatus Kulm complex at 10:30 a.m. after less than two hours' travel time. There weren't too many people up here yet, but we were warned that we'd have to head back down before 3 p.m. to avoid long waiting times. That gave us less than five hours for what we expected to be a 3-hour hike. 

Even though the map shows a total of less than two hours of walking time to the point we got to and back, it really takes longer because the trail past Tomlishorn falls steeply on both sides, and you have to walk carefully! From the point where we stopped, we would have had to descend 130 meters on the north wall of Widderfeld, before ascending relatively easily the same amount to the summit from the West side. 

Heading West along the cliff walk. For the most part, this is an easy-enough walk for most tourists (closer to the Tomlinshorn look-out platform, the trail gets quite rocky)

The Pilatus train from Alpnachstad (on the south side of Lake Luzern) is the steepest cogwheel train in the world, and that's what most tourists come here for, to be able to claim that they rode in the "steepest cogwheel train in the world". (Well, I do that too!)

A view of the mountains of Central Switzerland toward the West (Stanserhorn, Buochserhorn, Bürgenstock) and Lake Luzern. 

We also stopped where those people were resting, and looking down the vertical north face, we even spotted a herd of ibex grazing there. (They were young ones with short horns).

It was down below near the hiking trail that we spotted a half dozen of the ibex

A close-up look at the ibex

An interesting trail also for local hikers. In fact, there were many Swiss people, especially families, here at this time of day. 

Another look to the east. 

We got to the Tomlishorn junction at 11:15. Our goal is Widderfeld. The noted time here of 1:20 surprised us, as, according to my map, it should have been 1:30 from the Pilatus Hotel, but we had already come about 30 minutes! So even here we weren't sure if we'd have enough time to complete the planned hike. 

Very few other hikers continue past the Tomlishorn look-out. At this point, we were the only ones. Once we'd turned the corner, we could see the summit of Mount Widderfeld, which was actually our goal for the day, but it did look like it would take a long time to get there! (The ascent is from the other side). 

Even more interesting is when we saw that the trail was along this narrow ridge, which fell straight down on the north side. 

Obviously it was going to take longer than expected, when crossing these tricky sections (always with cable hand-holds, but still). 

The view down to Lake Sarnen and the Bernese Alps in the south

Another tricky section! But exciting!

It looks absolutely stunning from here, and seems to be impossible that we walked this far! The tall peak in the center is the Tomlishorn, and at the far left is Pilatus

When we finally got to the final crest before the descent on the north side of the Widderfeld, we had this lovely view of the rest of the Pilatus ridge, toward the popular peak called "Mittaggüpfi". The trail follows the saddle and ridge on the left. This is unfortunately a hike that is too long for us, as it takes over 6 hours to get to another bus stop in a lower valley. 

Yes, that's where we came from!

Walking along the crest, with a steep slope on each side! To continue, we would have to walk below the cliff on the right, in the shadow of the mountain.

As it was now noon, we decided to stop here, have our lunch, and head back to Pilatus Kulm. Having already taken 90 minutes to get just here, we thought we wouldn't be able to make it back by 3 p.m. if we kept going. 

Heading back

This view is to the north into the Eigenthal (Eigen Valley) where we have also walked a couple of times. Also you can see all the way to Lake Sempach.

That little chapel sits on a saddle just north of Pilatus Kulm. We've not done a hike down to the chapel, and probably won't this year any more, as the descent is steep and in shadow except for later in the afternoon. Down below is the city of Luzern 

Heading back the way we came, without having completed the hike we planned! (Which I am kind of disappointed about).

Now we are back at the base of Mount Tomlishorn, so we did a quick detour up to tht peak. 

Lots of people up here at Mount Tomlishorn (mostly Swiss!). It's a superb look-out point and a fairly easy walk here for most people (except those without the proper footwear!)

There's always someone doing a photo shoot and hogging the best place for a view! But I elbowed my way there a bit later. 

Panorama view from the peak of Tomlishorn

VIDEO:

Panorama view from Tomlishorn, looking East and South

The kids were holding out bread for the obtrusive choughs, who fly right up to get what's offered!

Interesting to me is looking here at the west side of Mount Matthorn, which I ascended on my own back in August (those photos are HERE)

There comes the Pilatus Cogwheel train again, a single wagon this time! Probably followed by a double one... 

Back on the cliff trail again.

A closer look at the chapel, and the city of Luzern below. 

The almost vertical north wall of the Pilatus range. The highest peak is Mount Tomlinshorn and the green hillside in the sunshine is the crest we walked, where we had our picnic lunch. This is also the spot where we observed the ibex below, and they were still there. 

The peak behind the Pilatus complex is called the "Esel" and is another look-out point which is relatively easy to access if you are in good shape. (Note, I also did another solo hike up here in June 2019, and went up both look-out points on either side of the complex. I had better visibility on that day. Those photos are worth looking at HERE)

Back at the complex at 2 p.m. 

By now the terraces are quite full. Urs wanted to buy himself a Bratwurst at a booth here, but there was a HUGE queue, and the Bratwursts were 15 CHF! (Other places you can get them for 8 CHF). We decided we might as well head on down. 

The large-cabin cable-car making its way up to Pilatus Kulm. 

What a fantastic backdrop!

On the way down in the cable car, we look right down on the top of Mount Bürgenstock, where we walked along the far ridge just two days earlier!

Back on the gondolas to Kriens. 

We pass by Castle Schauensee, another nearby destination I would like to walk to. It belongs to the community of Kriens, and you can visit it. 

Back down in Kriens at 2:45 p.m., and back home shortly after 4 p.m., enough time for a shower and nap before Urs' appointment with friends at 7 p.m.!!! (Not sure why I'm making that expression!)

Along the Walser Trail in Safien Valley and Beverin Nature Park

Thursday September 28, 2023 -- The weather just keeps on being nice this week, and since it was a vacation week for hiking, we had another opportunity to go into the mountains, this time to Canton Graubünden into another of Switzerland's Nature Parks: Park Beverin. We did a four-hour walk again (we seem to be alternating short and long walks this week!) but not a strenuous one. 

First we traveled by train to Thusis in the Domleschg, from where we caught a bus to the Glas Pass, where we started our hike at the foot of the peak that gives its name to the park: Piz Beverin. From there we walked down into the Safien Valley, a beautiful valley where we have been several times before (including a crossing of the Safierberg from Rheinwald to the south last year, those photos are HERE). The descent on the shadow side of the mountain was followed by a 2½-hour walk down the valley along the Rabiusa River on the "Safien Valley Walser Trail", to end at the dammed lake where we had once started another hike out of the valley back in 2016. 

Any trip into the Safien Valley ends with a ride through the fabulous Rhine Canyon, which also never gets boring. 

This was our second time at the Glas Pass, the first time was for a winter hike, that is how we discovered this pass (those photos are HERE). 

As the bus wound its way up from Thusis toward the Glas Pass we saw dozens of hot air balloons (most of them getting ready to land). There must have been some sort of event. The castle is called Untertagstein (privately held) and is not far from Thusis.

The balloons look pretty against the mountain backdrop

This is the village of Masein. This mountain is called the Heinzenberg, and you can walk along the entire crest from the Glas Pass, but it is over 6 hours to the next public transport, so a hike we will probably not do.  

Some of the pretty houses here in Canton Graubünden

To the south is the peak called Piz Beverin, which gives its name to the nature park. There should not be so much snow here at this time of year, but just a week earlier there was a cold spell with snow at lower elevations, and not even warm weather yet to melt most of it. This peak is just under 3000 meters. 

Passing the lovely little church in Obertschappina 

We arrived at the final bus stop at the Glas Pass at 10:10. (Travel time to get here was 3 hours and 15 minutes). Descending into the Safien Valley we follow Trail no.35 "Walserweg" and once at the valley bottom, we will join the trail no.735: "Walserweg Safiental". 

The first set of homes after the Glas Pass is called "Usser Glas". I was particularly interested in that sign that reads: "Attention, Wolf Territory, Enter at your own Risk!" (Last year the entire higher region around Piz Beverin was closed to hikers because wolves had killed several sheep there). We saw no wolves, but later on were warned that cameras had been set up along the trail to monitor their presence. 

One of several lovely houses in Usser Glas

Heading West toward the Safien Valley

We started at the Glas Pass and descended into the Safien Valley, from where we had a nice leisurely hike along the "Safien Valley Walser Trail". The entire hike was over four hours, but not at all difficult or strenous, not even the descent. 

A look south at the region around Piz Beverin, which we really want to hike through (crossing the pass in the center), but last year we couldn't, due to the wolves, and this year because of the snow. 

The next hamlet before the steep descent is called "Inner Glas". 

Here is a farmer's shop, we had a look inside...While I filled up my bottle with ice cold mountain water from the trough, Urs spotted a sign that advertised local ice cream.... 

Enjoying a mid-morning ice-cream on a bench that read "Chumm sitz es bitz" (= "Come, sit for a while"), Urs was apparently not the only one excited about the ice cream. There was a guest book in the shop, and someone had written "Yay! Ice Cream!"

One of the lovely buildings in Inner Glas

Looking south up the Safien Valley now, that hillside is called Camaner Alp, and we also walked here once in 2015

And here is a look to the north DOWN the Safien Valley, which is the direction we are headed. 

At this time of year, the forests are full of these Fly Amanita mushrooms, many of them obviously nibbled on. I wonder if they are poisonous for animals as well?

The steep descent was not at all difficult, the path was clean and well-tended.

Even though the descent was along this vertical cliff wall, it was no problem at all to walk down. 

Getting closer to the valley bottom, we get the first glimpse of the Rabiusa River, along which we will mostly be walking. 

Below is the small village of Safien Platz, and a reservoir lake with a power plant whose humming was annoying to my ears when we got near it, on our way to see the little Safien Platz Chapel.

At the south end of the reservoir lake, the Safien Platz Chapel has stood at this location since 1510, previously surrounded by two mountain streams. 

We got to the chapel at 12:15, and it is still in the shadow of the mountain. 

A quick look into the chapel, as usual. The "history" informs that the chapel was built here in 1510, renovated in 1788, partially destroyed by fire in 1886 and again renovated (also in 1958, 2005, and 2015). In 1958 this church was placed under national monument protection. We also learned that the Plague took 155 lives in 1550, probably most of the village at that time. 

This is a first! We've seen lots of llamas, alpacas, and even yaks and Mediterranean buffalos, but never yet a camel!

The houses of Safien Platz

Heading down the main road through Safien Platz. Here we found another shop selling locally-made products. 

Urs found something else he likes, local dried meat called Salsiz. The slot in the wall to put in your payment is a good idea, as the money cannot be stolen that way. 

Now the trail continues through meadows and forests along the river. We are lucky that the valley bottom is no longer in the shadow of the steep mountains to the east. 

Several such wooden walkways where the region is very wet

Several such wooden walkways where the region is very wet

Urs loves Canton Graubünden because the landscape here is still pretty wild and untouched. 

A view up the mountainside to the west. 

A look along the valley bottom to the south. 

We got to the second of the five churches in the Safien Valley at 2:25 p.m. This one is in the village called Neukirch (New Church). Back in 1697, the farmers in the vast mountain regions got tired of traveling to Safien Platz for church services, so they built a "New Church" here themselves, in just 34 days! 

This little church had a lovely interior, with a cute old organ (the keyboard is made of wood). Of particular interest is the Baroque pulpit, built in 1698. 

The lovely pulpit has been here since 1698 (original work). The steps to the upper balcony (where there were benches) are so steep, it could be a safety hazard!

Another view up the wild Safien Valley from the church grounds

At 3 p.m. we passed through the farm called Grafa. Here we were greeted by the sound of many bleating sheep!

In these pastures were so many fairly newborn lambs, they were so cute to watch!

Crossing the Rabiusa River one more time before the last stretch to the dammed lake at Egschi, where we were ending our hike. 

The north end of the dammed lake, where we started our other hike back in 2016. From here we headed up to the main road to catch the bus at Egschi.  

A look down at the lake. There was another bus stop further south, and closer, but at this time of day (3:45 p.m.) the western side of that valley is in shadow in many places. We would have had to wait 20 minutes in the shadow at the nearer bus stop. In Egschi we had sunshine. 

The dam here at Egschi. There has been a lot of waste wood carried down-river by recent storms. 

A farm at Egschi where there is a bus stop. We waited here in the sunshine for 15 minutes for the 16:04 bus. Buses run only every two hours up and down this valley.

A final look up the Safien Valley, Rabiusa River, Piz Beverin. 

These are the hikes we have done in this section of the Safien Valley and Glas Pass, including the short hike in winter of 2015 on the Camaner Alp. Earlier this year we walked from Tenna toward Versam in the north part of the valley, but higher up. And in 2016 we walked out of the valley on the east side. 

On the bus headed north out of the Safien Valley, we arrive in the village of Versam, where there is another historical church (which we have not yet visited). Behind that and below is the Rhine Gorge, where the bus is headed to the train station. 

Down in the Rhine Gorge at the Versam-Safien train station is where we board the train for the lovely ride through the Rhine Gorge to Chur. 

One of the largest rockslides in the world's history took place here millions of years ago, and the Rhine River has been carving through it since then. 

Train ride through the Rhine Gorge

Train ride through the Rhine Gorge

Here at Reichenau is where the Anterior and Posterior (Vorderrhein / Hinterrhein) join to form the main Rhine River which heads north from here to Lake Constance. 

These are all the hikes we have done to date around the Rhine Gorge, Safien Valley, Domleschg and Rheinwald (south of Piz Beverin). 

Location of the Safien Valley in Switzerland