A hike to Gries Lake and the Highest Altitude Wind Turbines in Europe

Sunday September 10, 2023 -- It's getting harder and harder to find a good place in the mountains to go hiking on a Sunday. Since COVID, hiking has become so popular, that everyone is on the way on the weekends, especially on a hot sunny day. All the places at higher elevations that we still want to go to must be accessed by cable-car, and we really don't want to stand in crowds and wait forever.

So after considering many options, we decided on a bus ride to the Nufenen Pass. This would not require standing in line for a cable-car, and is still a less-traveled route. Besides, the Nufenen Pass is renowned for the wind there, and the other times we've been there, it's always been kind of cold. 

There is a very interesting Swiss Alpine Hostel an hour's walk from the pass road and on the way to the Corno Pass. The last time we were here (see those photos August 2021), we walked up to this hostel, but then headed east along the Bedretto Valley to the San Giacomo Pass into Italy. This time the plan was to head West up the Corno Valley to the lovely Gries Lake and Gries Glacier at the Corno Pass, a route we had not yet walked before. We were very happy with this decision, even though the first 45 minutes to the hostel was still quite hot, but from there we always had a cool breeze. And the reservoir lake with its fabulous turquoise glacier water, the stunning Gries Glacier, the four magnificent wind turbines (highest altitude wind turbines in Europe) against the cloudless azure blue skies, were quite a sight to behold.

We should have stayed longer, but weren't sure how long it would take to descend to the bus stop at the Nufenen Pass road on the Wallis side, as there aren't many bus runs here. The descent also was not difficult, and we made it in plenty of time for the 15:53 bus back up to the Nufenen Pass, and down the Bedretto Valley.

Side Note: We later found out that right about the time we boarded the bus, the Gotthard Motor Vehicle Tunnel was closed due to damage in the tunnel roof, and shortly thereafter there were traffic issues due to the cars having to use the Gotthard and Nufenen Pass roads. So our bus made it to the train station in Airolo just before the traffic issues started! And with the train through the old tunnel, we had no issues other than lots of people on the train.

Also interesting: The region of the Nufenen Pass is the source of the Ticino River. And the road across the Nufenen Pass is the highest pass road in Switzerland. 

To get to the Nufenen Pass, you take a bus up the Bedretto Valley from Airolo, just south of the Gotthard tunnel entrance. Just before the Nufenen Pass (on the right, not visible here) is the bus stop along the pass road, from where we hiked up to the Corno-Gries Hostel on the left. The mountain in the center is called Nufenenstock. 

A look up to toward the Nufenen Pass, which is the highest pass road in Switzerland. The Ticino River has its source here. 

Here is the Ticino River, as we start on our hike up to the Corno-Gries Hostel. By the way, the trail markers had a time of 1 hour 5 minutes to get there, we did it in about 50 minutes. We started here at 10:45.  We could have taken an earlier bus and started at 8:45 instead, but we figured that bus would be full, and we expected cooler temperatures here anyway. 

This was a "short" hike for us, only 3½ hours, but a good pick for the day as it is easy for us to get to this region, and we had done a 4½-hour hike the day before. It takes about 1 hour to walk to the hostel, another hour to Corno Pass, and then 90 minutes down to the bus stop at Ladstafel. Unfortunately, the road from the dam toward the Nufenen Pass has been off limits for several years now. 

Only one other building on the way up to the hostel. It was quite warm hiking up here.

A look down at the Nufenen Pass Road and the Bedretto Valley. One negative aspect of walking near any pass road like this one, is that the motorcycle traffic makes quite a bit of noise. But you tend to tune it out. 

The lovely peaks on the north side of the Bedretto Valley. There were about five other people hiking up the hostel at this time. You can park your car at the road below, hike up for something to eat or drink, and be back at the car in about 40 minutes. A nice Sunday outing!

The blueberry bushes are turning red now, it's so pretty

A bee or fly seems to have made it onto my photo! This happens quite often. 

We had a quick look at the terrace, but there were a number of people here, and we decided not to stop for anything to drink, as we did last time. Last time also, we headed east along the mountainside on the right, to the San Giacomo Pass. (Those photos are HERE)

The sign indicated about an hour to the Corno Pass

Quite an unusual structure! The sleeping area is in the top part, storage and showers and WC at the very bottom, with the "mess hall" in the center. 

Continuing uphill now toward the Corno Pass. From here on we had a nice cool breeze, and there was only one other person going the same way. 

Heading toward the Corno Pass

We had a pleasant surprise as a large herd of goats turned the corner, walking along the trail! This was my favourite part of the day, actually. I got a real kick out of them. 

This one specially sought out Urs for a bit of head scratching. Look at the joy on that face!

There had been a lady with a dog who walked past us, and these goats were following her! We actually thought she might be the goatherd(ess), but I think she was just a hiker.

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Goats are actually a lot of fun to be around! 

These goats have free range in this entire valley...

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There were so many goats here, and they have the full run of the mountains here! There were no fences anywhere. What a great life! 

Continuing up the mountain. The range to our south (on the right) form the border between Switzerland and Italy here. 

First glimpse of the Gries Glacier and the peak called "Corno Rosso" or "Red Horn" (Rothorn in German). The small lake here doesn't seem to have a name. 

It also looked like the water level was low. This is supposed to be one lake, not two. 

Our first glimpse of Lake Griessee as I stand directly on the border between Cantons Ticino where we just walked up from, and Canton Wallis, which we are now crossing into. This also is exactly at the Corno Pass, at an elevation of 2485 meters above sea level. The air temperature was lovely. 

A close-up look at the Gries Glacier

Heading down toward the lake to look for a place for our picnic lunch. Had we stayed on the trail to the left, we could have crossed the Gries Pass into Italy in about 20 minutes from here. 

Around the corner we get a look (zoomed view) at the lovely peaks of the Bernese Alps, past the border of Canton Wallis! That's the Lauteraarhorn mountain. 

Here's where we sat for a while and had our picnic lunch, as it was now 1 p.m. In retrospect, we should have stayed longer...

Our spot for our picnic lunch

A closer look at the glacier tongue, and where the glacier waters enter this beautiful lake. 

As we continued along the trail toward the level of the dam, the views of the lake got better and better. 

Heading north toward the four beautiful wind turbines, the highest altitude wind turbines in Europe. Their motion is so quiet and it's really peaceful up here. And there were no dead birds around the base of the masts....

Another fantastic panorama view of Gries Lake as we follow a trail high above the dam. 

This time a view right to the south end of the lake. on the left is the Gries Pass, and those glaciers are in Italy. The pyramid peak behind me (Corno Rosso, or Red Horn) also forms the boundary between Italy on the left (east), and Switzerland on the right (west). 

A nice zoomed view of the Gries Pass into Italy (the trail on the left is still in Switzerland). There is a chapel on the pass there you can just see it in the photo. The border of Switzerland and Italy also follows the summit of those mountains (Ofenhorn on the left and Hohsandhorn, I think). i.e. Switzerland is on the far side of that mountain. 

Now we've reached the level of the turbines and get a look down the Ägene Valley, which leads down to the Rhône Valley in Obergoms, Wallis. It's not often you can look at the wind turbine propellers from above!

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One of the wind turbines, the dam, and the lake called Gries See.

It's not often you get to observe the wind turbines from above!

Looking past the propellers at the peaks of the Bernese Oberland! The one on the left, the Finsteraarhorn, is the highest peak in Canton Bern. 

Just above the dam now, taking a photo of the lake from its North side. 

Panorama view of Lake Gries from the north side.

Another look down the Ägene Valley. (I walked down that valley from the Nufenen Pass alone in September 2019, those photos are HERE) Those wind turbines are elegant and majestic. 

Officially, this road from the Griess Dam to the Nufenen Pass is closed due to potential rock fall. This has been the case for several years now, and is really unfortunate, as it removes an excellent access trail. We did see people walking here, though. 

Because one is not officially allowed to walk along the upper direct trails, we have to make our way to the nearest bus stop on the Wallis side of the Nufenen Pass, which is down below in the center of the photo. It took us an hour and 20 minutes from here. 

Sometimes I manage to photograph some cute birds. This is a common mountain bird called the Northern Wheatear. (German = Steinschmätzer)

Looks so pretty in this afternoon light

Heading down to the road directly below

Part of the descent was along this cliff, but it was an easy descent

The bus stop is at the small set of buildings along the road. That is actually an alpine dairy called Ladstafel, where they sell their cheese and refreshments. 

Close-up look at the lovely stone bridge over the Ägene River. We were early enough for the bus that we sat at the bridge for a while. 

To the east is another fabulous Swiss Pass road, to the Nufenen Pass. We traveled up that road with the bus from here, and then back down the Bedretto Valley in Ticino. 

Always happy to wash my face and drink the water from the cold water streams!

Oh, and this fellow was whistling like crazy! I guess we passed too close to his territory!

Buying cheese and cold refreshments at Ladstafel. The farmer had only this one wheel of cheese left. He told us they are heading out of the valley the next week. It's time to get the cows off the alpine meadows.

A look back up to the dam and the four wind turbines. The Ägene River flows out from Lake Griessee and down the Ägene Valley to join the Rhône River at Ulrichen.  

We came down that mountain, following the cliff in the center. 

The lovely stone bridge across the Ägene River at Ladstafel. We ate most of the cheese while waiting here for the bus, as we were 20 minutes early for a change.  

Looking down the Ägene Valley from the bridge. The mountains on the other side of the Rhône Valley form the border with Canton Bern.  I walked down this valley on my own in 2019

Our hike as shown on Google Satellite Maps. We started on the Nufenen Pass road on the Ticino side, and got back on the bus on the Wallis side of the Pass, crossing canton borders at the Corno Pass. This is just along the border with Italy. 

Bus ride up to the Nufenen Pass looking down the Wallis side.

A view of the Bernese Alps from the Nufenen Pass. The region between here to there is in Canton Wallis. The peak in the center, Mount Finsteraarhorn, is the highest peak in Canton Bern. 

Looking across the lake at the Nufenen Pass are the mountains of the Bedretto Valley in Canton Ticino. 

It was so lovely and cool up here, and then I had to get back into the bus with no air conditioner, for the 45-minute bus ride down the Bedretto Valley to Airolo! That was the most sweat-inducing part of the entire excursion.

The pass road down into the Bedretto Valley. These mountains form the border with Italy, which is on the other side. At 2478 meters, the Nufenen Road is the highest Pass Road in Switzerland. 

Motorcyclists love to drive these pass roads. 

The power lines are like trees at this high tree-less elevation. 

This is approximately where we started on our hike up the hill. In August 2020 I did a hike on my own, starting here as well but walking down this valley on the "low road". Those photos are HERE. 

All the hikes we have done around the Nufenen Pass. Two of them, down the valley in both directions, I did on my own (PURPLE and YELLOW)

Location of the Nufenen Pass in Switzerland

As a side note, here is what the region of the Nufenen Pass and Corno Pass (with the Nufenenstock in the center) look like from further down the Bedretto Valley, where we walked in August of 2021. (Those photos are HERE).

A look up to the Nufenen Pass on the rght, and the Corno Pass on the left. We started our hike to the Corno-Gries Hostel from the road just below Mount Nufenenstock.