Findelbach Valley Hike with views of the Matterhorn in Zermatt

Saturday September 2, 2023 -- The last time we were in Zermatt (home of the Matterhorn) was in June 2020. For a day trip there it takes too long (4.5 hours travel each way) and since we were so close by (overnighting in a small and very dated motel between Brig and Visp) we made a last-minute decision to travel there, even though we knew we were risking being among many visitors on a Saturday. Furthermore, we have special tickets valid for this year, allowing for free travel on the otherwise expensive Gorner-Grat railway, so it was a good time to take advantage of this.

The earliest bus we could take was at 7:30 a.m., getting us to Zermatt at 9:15 and to the Gornergrat (summit train station) at 10:10. The day started perfectly for the fantastic views of the mountains and glaciers here, and after a requisite 30-minutes at the summit (among, as we guessed, lots of visitors!!!) for photos, we took the next railway down to one of the middle-stations (Riffelalp) to do one final hike in this three-day trip. We wanted something much shorter than the day before, so settled on a 3½-hour hike–a suggestion we got from the Internet which included trails we hadn't walked before–which we couldn't finish and had to shorten along the way. As it turns out we walked less than three hours, but it felt longer than the day before. There are two main reasons for this: A large part of the trail was on wide dirt roads (very tiring) and also part of the popular "Five-Lakes Trail" which it seems like every French, Dutch and American had decided to walk this day.

One has to admit, though, that the Matterhorn is a fantastic rock, and we were lucky to have views of it all day. The predicted clouds for noon held off till 3 p.m., at which time we were basically finished the hike and headed on our very long trip home. 

We left our hotel in Brigerbad at 7:30, and were on our way from Visp up the Matter Valley by shortly after 8 a.m. At this time of year, the valley lies in the shade of the mountain for a long time. But the views of the sunny snow-covered 4000+ peaks along the way was pretty good! (This is, I believe, the Weisshorn. It looks different when seen from below. Here is the view that we had from the other side of Visp on the hike the day before -- PHOTO from my blog)

On the West side of the Matter Valley, at the level of Randa, is another view of Mount Weisshorn. This time you can see the lower part of the glacier, called Bisgletscher

Even though you cannot actually see the Matterhorn until you get to the town of Zermatt, there is this full view of the peak called Mt. Breithorn. The small projection on the right is the "Klein Matterhorn" (or "Small Matterhorn") which is the highest mountain station in Europe (Cableway in this case). Also, in the center of the photo you can see the gallery from the railway line we rode and the hotel at the Riffelberg station.

Fat and woolly Valais Black-Nose Sheep we saw along the way. These are the best sheep!

At the train station in Zermatt, we get the first peek at the Matterhorn, which is kind of "around the corner"

As the Gornergrat Train leaves the station at Zermatt and starts on its way up the mountain, more and more of the Matterhorn becomes visible. It's a 33-minute ride up the mountain to the Gornergrat summit station. 

A closer look at the Matterhorn from the east side of Zermatt. This is the typical view one sees on all photos.... I have to admit, it is a very spectacular peak, and I can understand the allure, why everyone wants to come here. 

A look down the Matter Valley, which we traveled up by train. In the center is a bare spot on the moutain side. This was the result of the massive Randa Landslides of April 1991

A bit of a different angle as the train enters the gallery between Riffelalp and Riffelberg stations. 

One stop short of the summit is the Rotenboden station. Many people get out here to start their hikes or simply visit the lake (Riffelsee) and enjoy the fabulous views of the glacier landscape to the south. 

Monte Rosa (4554 meters) and the Grenz Glacier. This is the mountain we always see from the other side when we are in Canton Ticino!

Klein Matterhorn and the Furgg Glacier

A close-up look at the Klein Matterhorn with its cable-way.... This is the highest mountain station in Europe, and in July of 2023 the highest alpine crossing between two countries (Switzerland and Italy) in the Alps was completed, via this station.  

On the north side of the Gornergrat crest is the lake Gornergratsee. Back in 2014 we were here, started our hike at the summit station via the crest, and then returned past this lake. 

We got to the Gornergrat summit station at 10:09, a trip of 2 hours and 40 minutes from our hotel in Brigerbad! This is the observatory at the summit. 

A wider view of the glaciers to the south, from the Gornergrat summit station. (Breithorn, Klein Matterhorn)

Slightly to the Southeast is the Monte Rosa Massif. The highest peak in the Swiss Alps is the one at the arrow, the Dufour Peak (4634 meters). Above the lake in the center of the photo is the Monte Rosa Swiss Alpine Hostel. It requires hiking over the Gorner Glacier to get there. 

A very close-up look at the Monte Rosa SAC Hostel!

From the summit station I spied the red frame from the "Grand Tour of Switzerland" and had to get the standard photo for my collection!

From the terrace in front of the observatory (restaurants, chapel, souvernir shops, toilets) is the view of the Gornergrat summit railway station and, obviously, the Matterhorn. Obviously, it was cold up here at 3090 meters above sea level! By the way, we were lucky on our trip up, the train wasn't too full. The next one brought way more tourists!

We stayed only 30 minutes up here, as it was already getting late to start on our planned hike for the day. Here's our 10:43 train approaching the summit station!

Getting on the 10:43 train at the summit station for the 25-minute ride back down to the Riffelalp station, where we started our hike for the day at 11:15!!

I would have liked to start on our hike up here, but due to recent early snowfall (there should not be so much snow up here at this time of year), we decided on a hike at a lower elevation. Also, we, walked here in 2014. 

Heading down past Gornergrat Lake again! The large valley in the back is the main Matter Valley (Mattertal) 

Another look down the Matter Valley. Our hike takes place in the side valley just behind the buildings below. Also, the clouds are now moving in on the mountaintops in the West, so we are glad for the clear views we had earlier on the way up!

A zoomed view of the Randa Rockslide of 1991. There were apparently three landslides between April 18 and May 9th of that year, with about 50 million cubic meters of rock falling across the railway lines and the road. No lives were lost, but several animals and 33 buildings were destroyed. The Swiss Army was able to free up the railway line in 10 weeks. As we passed by, there were already lush forests growing on the bottom section of the fallen rocks. 

At 11:15 we started out at the Riffelalp train station. First though, changing into shorts, and eating our picnic lunch. We are headed to the Grünsee lake. 

This was a short hike for us, less than three hours, and not a lot of ascent, but I was more tired than on the previous two hikes (maybe not yet recovered from those?) but probably because the roads were wide and there were so very many people all over the trails. And also because we started late in the day. Originally we were going to descend from Findeln on the north side of the Findelbach river, and walk through the city of Zermatt to the train station, but we cut that short by getting back on the Gornergrat train at the Findelbach station. (The Five-Lakes Trail is the green one with number 186, starting at Blauherd, ending in Sunegga)

At the start of our hike we got a good view to the other side of the Findelbach Valley to the mountain hamlets of Findeln, the main goal of our hike before descending toward Zermatt. 

This hamlet of Ze Gassu was the last one we visited, and instead of descending to Zermatt on the left-hand trail, we decided to cross the Findelbach River on the right-hand trail. 

A look up the Findelbach Valley. This day our trail passed up the Moraine hill on the left side to above the tree line. Back in 2017, though, we walked to Fluhalp (a small building you can see in the center of this photo) and returned via the crest of the moraine with views right down on the Findel Glacier! That was a much more interesting hike than this one! (Photos HERE)

And on the other side of Zermatt, also way up high in the narrow Triftbach Valley is a hotel. We walked up there in June 2020, hiking up there on a whim without previous planning. It was a wonderful 5+ hour hike with a total ascent of over 1000 meters! One of our best. Those photos are HERE

The first part of the hike was through a very pretty Swiss Pine forest (Arolla Pine). This dog and his stick made me smile!

40-minute walk through a Swiss Pine forest to the Mountain Lodge called Ze Seewjinu. There weren't many people on this section as it's not part of the Five-Lakes Trail. But right after the lodge is where we encountered so many people (few Swiss, mostly English-, French-, Dutch- and Asian-speaking). Fortunately they were all walking in the other direction, past us instead of with us. 

Looking across the Findelbach Valley to the mountainside called Findeln, our main goal on this hike. 

Here at the mountain lodge is where the massive hiker-traffic "started". Also, the first views of the Matterhorn, albeit behind us. We came through the beautiful forest on the left. The Five-Lakes trail heads down to the Findelbach river past the lodge on the right. 

A view of the Findelbach Moraine. And the people. And the wide roads which tired me out just thinking about walking on them. 

Shortly past the lodge you get to one of the major attractions: Lake Grüensee. There were so many people here, you could barely find a free spot around the lake. My favourite part was this very long stepped water fountain! Needless to say I filled up my water bottle with ice-cold mountain water. 

A look back across Lake Grüensee. Well, it WAS 12:30 by now, and so everyone stopped here for their picnic lunch. (Peak of the Matterhorn on the far left)

A close-up look at the peak of the Matterhorn, what we could see from the level of the lake called Grüensee, one of the five lakes passed on the popular Five-Lake Trail. 

From the lake, we discovered on our map a less-used trail alternate to the wide road. It took us much longer to navigate this one, but much better because a) not a wide road, and b) no other hikers here. 

Approaching the easternmost point of the trail from above, instead of having to walk that wide hot road below. We can't see the Findel Glacier from here, only the river waters, and the very large moraine, which we walked along in 2017. 

Here the trail crosses the Findelbach river and heads back westward along the Findel Glacier Moraine, to another of the five lakes in the trees at the top of the road. This was probably the hottest part of our hike. No wind there. 

Heading west now on the moraine road on the north side of the valley, with better views of the Matterhorn.

This next lake is called the Grindjesee.Trail no.186 is the Five-Lakes trail, a popular 3¼-hour hike.  

Lake Grindje, or Grindjesee

A final ascent before heading down to Findeln. At least from here on we had a much better mountain trail, but having to pass all the people on this trail was annoying. 

Down below is the lovely turquoise Mossjesee (water is from the glacier), one of the five lakes on the trail, but one which we did not pass next to.  

Mossjesee

Heading down now across the Findeln hillside, the first hamlet we pass here is called Egge. This building is a mountain restaurant. There were several restaurants on this hillside, almost all of them with completely full terrace tables and people waiting in line. 

Road through Egge

A look down the Findeln hillside. (The start of our hike was through the forest on the other side)

So many small barns on this hillside

An Edelweiss decoration at one of the other restaurants

In the final hamlet we passed through (Ze Gassu, which I photographed from the other side of the valley at the start of our hike) was a small chapel which we had a quick look inside. (There were also TWO restaurants here!)

Inside the small chapel at Ze Gassu. It had a very lovely wood panel ceiling.

Heading down the road at Ze Gassu. 

At this point it was already 14:40. We would have had anywhere from 1-2 hours to get to the train station in Zermatt, with a long walk through the city. We opted for the train station at Findelbach on the Gornergrat line. According to the sign, 30 minutes, although it took us 40 minutes. The train was leaving at 15:18, so we basically made it just on time again. 

A look above us at the hamlet of Ze Gassu as we descend to the Findelbach River

A 35-minute descent through the forest on the south side of the Findelbach River. Almost 300 meters to descend. 

As usual, we got to the Findelbach train station just 3 minutes before arrival of the train. Also, we were standing at the wrong spot as the train came in (you are supposed to wait in the middle platform as there are only doors on that side!). So when the train arrived, we had to race to the back of the train and cross the tracks at a "non-official" spot. Luckily, the train had to wait here to cross the uphill train. From here it was a short 9-minute ride back to the train station in Zermatt. 

And now, at 15:25, the clouds which had been hesitating all afternoon (actually forecast for 3 p.m.) really started moving in, as we started on our 4½-hour trip back home  

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

The other hikes we did in the Zermatt Region: Green in 2017, two hikes in 2020 (yellow 1 and yellow 2), and the blue one was 2014, no blog photos for that. 

These are two bridges over the Matter Vispa River near Stalden, at the junction with the Saas Valley. 

A look to the north from the height of Stalden at the junction of the Matter and Saas Valleys. We can see the hillside where we had done the 5+ hour hike in the Baltschieder Valley the day before. 

Location of Zermatt and the Matterhorn in Switzerland.