Short Hike along Pilatus Crest with fantastic Panorama Views

Friday September 29, 2023 -- Alternating long and short hikes, this one was a "short" one, because Urs had a commitment in the evening and we had to stay near home. The day was fantastic with particularly good air clarity, so we went to the summit of Mount Pilatus, which is fairly close to home. Having left early, there should have been enough time to complete the planned 3-hour hike along the crest of the mountain.

Early Friday morning, we weren't expecting too many tourists, but it just really never stops! When we got to the summit at 10:45, we heard an announcement that they were encouraging people to descend before 3 p.m., as it was going to be really busy by then.

We headed along the lovely cliff trail to the summit called Tomlishorn, a 30-minute walk mostly along a wide, level trail (at the end some uphill on a rough trail), a walk that many tourists and locals with families can easily manage, for some unforgettable 360-degree views. We were among the very few (for a while alone) who kept going on the crest trail, along a stunning ridge with vertical drops on the North side. As it turns out, we had to walk carefully, so it was taking us longer than expected, and not wanting to be caught in the crowds later, we broke off the hike within sight of our goal and headed back, to my disappointment. 

On the way back we also braved the crowds and went to the summit of the Tomlishorn. By the time we returned to the complex at Pilatus Kulm (restaurants, hotel), the terraces were crowded, but we had no problems with the 2 p.m. descent with the cable car, and were back home by 4 p.m.

Note: We saw ibex again! A small herd of young ones grazing on the north side of the mountain.

First section to Mount Pilatus summit on the north side is a gondola ride from Kriens (Luzern) to Fräkmündegg. (There were about as many tourists at this point, 10:30 a.m., as there were last time I was here. )

Second section from Fräkmündegg to Pilatus Kulm is a large-cabin cable car.

We got to the Pilatus Kulm complex at 10:30 a.m. after less than two hours' travel time. There weren't too many people up here yet, but we were warned that we'd have to head back down before 3 p.m. to avoid long waiting times. That gave us less than five hours for what we expected to be a 3-hour hike. 

Even though the map shows a total of less than two hours of walking time to the point we got to and back, it really takes longer because the trail past Tomlishorn falls steeply on both sides, and you have to walk carefully! From the point where we stopped, we would have had to descend 130 meters on the north wall of Widderfeld, before ascending relatively easily the same amount to the summit from the West side. 

Heading West along the cliff walk. For the most part, this is an easy-enough walk for most tourists (closer to the Tomlinshorn look-out platform, the trail gets quite rocky)

The Pilatus train from Alpnachstad (on the south side of Lake Luzern) is the steepest cogwheel train in the world, and that's what most tourists come here for, to be able to claim that they rode in the "steepest cogwheel train in the world". (Well, I do that too!)

A view of the mountains of Central Switzerland toward the West (Stanserhorn, Buochserhorn, Bürgenstock) and Lake Luzern. 

We also stopped where those people were resting, and looking down the vertical north face, we even spotted a herd of ibex grazing there. (They were young ones with short horns).

It was down below near the hiking trail that we spotted a half dozen of the ibex

A close-up look at the ibex

An interesting trail also for local hikers. In fact, there were many Swiss people, especially families, here at this time of day. 

Another look to the east. 

We got to the Tomlishorn junction at 11:15. Our goal is Widderfeld. The noted time here of 1:20 surprised us, as, according to my map, it should have been 1:30 from the Pilatus Hotel, but we had already come about 30 minutes! So even here we weren't sure if we'd have enough time to complete the planned hike. 

Very few other hikers continue past the Tomlishorn look-out. At this point, we were the only ones. Once we'd turned the corner, we could see the summit of Mount Widderfeld, which was actually our goal for the day, but it did look like it would take a long time to get there! (The ascent is from the other side). 

Even more interesting is when we saw that the trail was along this narrow ridge, which fell straight down on the north side. 

Obviously it was going to take longer than expected, when crossing these tricky sections (always with cable hand-holds, but still). 

The view down to Lake Sarnen and the Bernese Alps in the south

Another tricky section! But exciting!

It looks absolutely stunning from here, and seems to be impossible that we walked this far! The tall peak in the center is the Tomlishorn, and at the far left is Pilatus

When we finally got to the final crest before the descent on the north side of the Widderfeld, we had this lovely view of the rest of the Pilatus ridge, toward the popular peak called "Mittaggüpfi". The trail follows the saddle and ridge on the left. This is unfortunately a hike that is too long for us, as it takes over 6 hours to get to another bus stop in a lower valley. 

Yes, that's where we came from!

Walking along the crest, with a steep slope on each side! To continue, we would have to walk below the cliff on the right, in the shadow of the mountain.

As it was now noon, we decided to stop here, have our lunch, and head back to Pilatus Kulm. Having already taken 90 minutes to get just here, we thought we wouldn't be able to make it back by 3 p.m. if we kept going. 

Heading back

This view is to the north into the Eigenthal (Eigen Valley) where we have also walked a couple of times. Also you can see all the way to Lake Sempach.

That little chapel sits on a saddle just north of Pilatus Kulm. We've not done a hike down to the chapel, and probably won't this year any more, as the descent is steep and in shadow except for later in the afternoon. Down below is the city of Luzern 

Heading back the way we came, without having completed the hike we planned! (Which I am kind of disappointed about).

Now we are back at the base of Mount Tomlishorn, so we did a quick detour up to tht peak. 

Lots of people up here at Mount Tomlishorn (mostly Swiss!). It's a superb look-out point and a fairly easy walk here for most people (except those without the proper footwear!)

There's always someone doing a photo shoot and hogging the best place for a view! But I elbowed my way there a bit later. 

Panorama view from the peak of Tomlishorn

VIDEO:

Panorama view from Tomlishorn, looking East and South

The kids were holding out bread for the obtrusive choughs, who fly right up to get what's offered!

Interesting to me is looking here at the west side of Mount Matthorn, which I ascended on my own back in August (those photos are HERE)

There comes the Pilatus Cogwheel train again, a single wagon this time! Probably followed by a double one... 

Back on the cliff trail again.

A closer look at the chapel, and the city of Luzern below. 

The almost vertical north wall of the Pilatus range. The highest peak is Mount Tomlinshorn and the green hillside in the sunshine is the crest we walked, where we had our picnic lunch. This is also the spot where we observed the ibex below, and they were still there. 

The peak behind the Pilatus complex is called the "Esel" and is another look-out point which is relatively easy to access if you are in good shape. (Note, I also did another solo hike up here in June 2019, and went up both look-out points on either side of the complex. I had better visibility on that day. Those photos are worth looking at HERE)

Back at the complex at 2 p.m. 

By now the terraces are quite full. Urs wanted to buy himself a Bratwurst at a booth here, but there was a HUGE queue, and the Bratwursts were 15 CHF! (Other places you can get them for 8 CHF). We decided we might as well head on down. 

The large-cabin cable-car making its way up to Pilatus Kulm. 

What a fantastic backdrop!

On the way down in the cable car, we look right down on the top of Mount Bürgenstock, where we walked along the far ridge just two days earlier!

Back on the gondolas to Kriens. 

We pass by Castle Schauensee, another nearby destination I would like to walk to. It belongs to the community of Kriens, and you can visit it. 

Back down in Kriens at 2:45 p.m., and back home shortly after 4 p.m., enough time for a shower and nap before Urs' appointment with friends at 7 p.m.!!! (Not sure why I'm making that expression!)