August 24, 2020

Walking along the Ticino River on the Low Road in Val Bedretto

Monday Aug. 24th -- Instead of a Wednesday hike this week, we both have to work, so with my last day off for a couple of weeks I decided to do a hike on my own this time. 

I returned to the Bedretto Valley where we have done several hikes already, but this time I started near the Nufenen Pass (well, 400 altitude meters lower than the pass, along the pass road) and walked down valley in the direction of Airolo. As we had previously hiked a section of the Four-Headwaters Trail (the High Trail) starting at the pass, and another time we did a section of the Low Trail from Fontana to Airolo, I made it my goal to connect the missing section!

[For photos from our hike two years earlier along the High Trail, CLICK HERE]

It was quite a challenge, a 15-km section that takes about four hours to walk, and I wasn't sure I could complete it walking alone. But there was little uphill, and I gave myself 6 hours so that I could take as many breaks as needed, stopping once about half-way in a cute hotel in Ronco to have coffee on their terrace and rest my feet. 

Unfortunately it was colder and more overcast than I had expected, especially at the start. But once the cold wind no longer was an issue, it became a very nice walk, through a variety of landscapes starting above the tree level with mainly wild blueberry bushes already showing signs of autumn, to forest and meadows and wetlands, along very nice trails. And along the way I was able to get a closer look at several tiny communities which we pass through when we ride the bus up the valley.  

NOTE: The mighty Ticino River, one of Switzerland's main rivers, has its source at the Nufenen Pass, and it was along this river that I walked the whole day. 


On the trip up the Bedretto Valley toward the Nufenen Pass, the bus leaves the main road and travels on a narrow paved road through a handful of small villages such as this one, Villa Bedretto. My plan is to walk through those villages on the way down.


Also off the main road, in the village of Ronco, is a handful of houses including this Hotel/Restaurant. It is my plan to stop here on the way down. It's about 90 minutes' walk from my starting point.

I got off the bus before the Nufenen Pass, along the winding pass road, a full 400m altitude below the pass. In Sept.2018 we walked down from the Nufenen Pass to this point, then took the "Sentiero Alto Val Bedretto" (the High Trail) to All'Aqua via Pian Secco. This time I'm following the "Strada Bassa" or Low Road via All'Acqua with the goal of reaching Fontana


Another Marmot sighting. And the Marmot hole was interesting, because instead of a pile of dirt shoveled out of the hole, this one shoveled out a bunch of rocks! And the bird looks like a sparrow, but might be a dunnock. 

Starting near Alp Cruina, I managed to walk over 15 km down the valley all the way to Fontana, which was my goal, as on a different occasion we had walked from Fontana to Airolo, so this closed the gap. The trails were pleasant, well-tended, without a lot of ascent. Between Ronco and Ossasco I stayed on the road in order to look at the villages (the actual Strada Bassa crosses to the other side of the valley)

Behind me is the striking Mt. Nufenenstock. Until I got nearer the tree line, it was icy cold and windy up here. Right around this area is the source of the Ticino River.

Heading down valley always parallel to the road. There was very little traffic so not much traffic noise.

Another look back at Mt. Nufenenstock, and the Nufenen Pass on its right. The landscape is already showing signs of fall colors.

Zoomed view of the peak of Mt. Nufenenstock. Interesting how the cloud travels through the cleft!

Crossing the young Ticino River

A pretty landscape covered in wild blueberries, with a very comfortable trail weaving through the bushes.

A look East down the Bedretto Valley

Once I reached the tree line, the trail continued as a wider path toward All'Acqua

Heading down to the main road now.

Pretty daisies next to the river.

Right next to the river was a building, which I thought housed some livestock, as I heard some scraping noises. A peek in the open door showed a cheese cellar!!! And the farmer was just around the corner scraping one of the loaves.

After over two hours (90 minutes of walking), I reached Ronco, where I took a quick peek into the church and then had a coffee and a long rest on the terrace of the hotel around the corner.

The community of Ronco consists of about 15 buildings including the church and two restaurants! I had a coffee on the terrace of the Ristorante Stella, lower right.

From Ronco I continued along the narrow parallel road to the main highway, i.e. the road that the bus takes through these two villages ahead. 

First of the two villages I passed through is Bedretto.

Between Bedretto and Villa Bedretto, the third of four daily buses between Airolo and the Nufenen Pass makes its way up the valley (time is approx. 13:45). That truck in the meadow was doing road construction closer to the village and had to travel 300m up the road to let the bus pass.

A final look up the valley just before reaching the next village called Villa Bedretto

Villa Bedretto. This is where the large church is, that I saw on the way up. After visiting the church, I descended to the river on the right.

The truck doing the road maintenance had to back up the 300m again after letting the bus pass!

The parish church of Villa Bedretto is called "Chiesa dei Santi Martiri Maccabei" (Church of the Maccabean Martys). As is common with churches here, the original one was built in the 14th century, and after several destructions and rebuilds, this one dates from 1897, so a fairly young church.

Lovely light pastel colours in the interior of the "Chiesa dei Santi Martiri Maccabei", 1897

Lovely light pastel colours in the interior of the "Chiesa dei Santi Martiri Maccabei", 1897

Down to the Ticino River and another 1.5 km to the next town of Ossasco.

At Ossasco, the sign tells me I only have another 30 minutes to Fontana! Next bus is in an hour, so plenty of time.

The town of Ossasco, on the South side of the river. 

In Ossasco, view up the valley.

The final 30 minutes to Fontana are through the forest above the road and river

Here is my destination of Fontana. Below in the valley, the military is doing shooting practice. 

I had about 20 minutes before the bus came, so I sat next to the house with the Swiss Flag, and the sound of the stream drowned out the continuous shooting of the military target practice!


I started at about 9 a.m. and took my time with lots of breaks and caught the 15:24 bus in Fontana. So 6.5 hours for a 4-hour hike, but I was very proud that I had completed this distance without a walking partner.


This is an area where we have also done a lot of hiking.




No comments: