Along the Walser Trail in Safien Valley and Beverin Nature Park

Thursday September 28, 2023 -- The weather just keeps on being nice this week, and since it was a vacation week for hiking, we had another opportunity to go into the mountains, this time to Canton Graubünden into another of Switzerland's Nature Parks: Park Beverin. We did a four-hour walk again (we seem to be alternating short and long walks this week!) but not a strenuous one. 

First we traveled by train to Thusis in the Domleschg, from where we caught a bus to the Glas Pass, where we started our hike at the foot of the peak that gives its name to the park: Piz Beverin. From there we walked down into the Safien Valley, a beautiful valley where we have been several times before (including a crossing of the Safierberg from Rheinwald to the south last year, those photos are HERE). The descent on the shadow side of the mountain was followed by a 2½-hour walk down the valley along the Rabiusa River on the "Safien Valley Walser Trail", to end at the dammed lake where we had once started another hike out of the valley back in 2016. 

Any trip into the Safien Valley ends with a ride through the fabulous Rhine Canyon, which also never gets boring. 

This was our second time at the Glas Pass, the first time was for a winter hike, that is how we discovered this pass (those photos are HERE). 

As the bus wound its way up from Thusis toward the Glas Pass we saw dozens of hot air balloons (most of them getting ready to land). There must have been some sort of event. The castle is called Untertagstein (privately held) and is not far from Thusis.

The balloons look pretty against the mountain backdrop

This is the village of Masein. This mountain is called the Heinzenberg, and you can walk along the entire crest from the Glas Pass, but it is over 6 hours to the next public transport, so a hike we will probably not do.  

Some of the pretty houses here in Canton Graubünden

To the south is the peak called Piz Beverin, which gives its name to the nature park. There should not be so much snow here at this time of year, but just a week earlier there was a cold spell with snow at lower elevations, and not even warm weather yet to melt most of it. This peak is just under 3000 meters. 

Passing the lovely little church in Obertschappina 

We arrived at the final bus stop at the Glas Pass at 10:10. (Travel time to get here was 3 hours and 15 minutes). Descending into the Safien Valley we follow Trail no.35 "Walserweg" and once at the valley bottom, we will join the trail no.735: "Walserweg Safiental". 

The first set of homes after the Glas Pass is called "Usser Glas". I was particularly interested in that sign that reads: "Attention, Wolf Territory, Enter at your own Risk!" (Last year the entire higher region around Piz Beverin was closed to hikers because wolves had killed several sheep there). We saw no wolves, but later on were warned that cameras had been set up along the trail to monitor their presence. 

One of several lovely houses in Usser Glas

Heading West toward the Safien Valley

We started at the Glas Pass and descended into the Safien Valley, from where we had a nice leisurely hike along the "Safien Valley Walser Trail". The entire hike was over four hours, but not at all difficult or strenous, not even the descent. 

A look south at the region around Piz Beverin, which we really want to hike through (crossing the pass in the center), but last year we couldn't, due to the wolves, and this year because of the snow. 

The next hamlet before the steep descent is called "Inner Glas". 

Here is a farmer's shop, we had a look inside...While I filled up my bottle with ice cold mountain water from the trough, Urs spotted a sign that advertised local ice cream.... 

Enjoying a mid-morning ice-cream on a bench that read "Chumm sitz es bitz" (= "Come, sit for a while"), Urs was apparently not the only one excited about the ice cream. There was a guest book in the shop, and someone had written "Yay! Ice Cream!"

One of the lovely buildings in Inner Glas

Looking south up the Safien Valley now, that hillside is called Camaner Alp, and we also walked here once in 2015

And here is a look to the north DOWN the Safien Valley, which is the direction we are headed. 

At this time of year, the forests are full of these Fly Amanita mushrooms, many of them obviously nibbled on. I wonder if they are poisonous for animals as well?

The steep descent was not at all difficult, the path was clean and well-tended.

Even though the descent was along this vertical cliff wall, it was no problem at all to walk down. 

Getting closer to the valley bottom, we get the first glimpse of the Rabiusa River, along which we will mostly be walking. 

Below is the small village of Safien Platz, and a reservoir lake with a power plant whose humming was annoying to my ears when we got near it, on our way to see the little Safien Platz Chapel.

At the south end of the reservoir lake, the Safien Platz Chapel has stood at this location since 1510, previously surrounded by two mountain streams. 

We got to the chapel at 12:15, and it is still in the shadow of the mountain. 

A quick look into the chapel, as usual. The "history" informs that the chapel was built here in 1510, renovated in 1788, partially destroyed by fire in 1886 and again renovated (also in 1958, 2005, and 2015). In 1958 this church was placed under national monument protection. We also learned that the Plague took 155 lives in 1550, probably most of the village at that time. 

This is a first! We've seen lots of llamas, alpacas, and even yaks and Mediterranean buffalos, but never yet a camel!

The houses of Safien Platz

Heading down the main road through Safien Platz. Here we found another shop selling locally-made products. 

Urs found something else he likes, local dried meat called Salsiz. The slot in the wall to put in your payment is a good idea, as the money cannot be stolen that way. 

Now the trail continues through meadows and forests along the river. We are lucky that the valley bottom is no longer in the shadow of the steep mountains to the east. 

Several such wooden walkways where the region is very wet

Several such wooden walkways where the region is very wet

Urs loves Canton Graubünden because the landscape here is still pretty wild and untouched. 

A view up the mountainside to the west. 

A look along the valley bottom to the south. 

We got to the second of the five churches in the Safien Valley at 2:25 p.m. This one is in the village called Neukirch (New Church). Back in 1697, the farmers in the vast mountain regions got tired of traveling to Safien Platz for church services, so they built a "New Church" here themselves, in just 34 days! 

This little church had a lovely interior, with a cute old organ (the keyboard is made of wood). Of particular interest is the Baroque pulpit, built in 1698. 

The lovely pulpit has been here since 1698 (original work). The steps to the upper balcony (where there were benches) are so steep, it could be a safety hazard!

Another view up the wild Safien Valley from the church grounds

At 3 p.m. we passed through the farm called Grafa. Here we were greeted by the sound of many bleating sheep!

In these pastures were so many fairly newborn lambs, they were so cute to watch!

Crossing the Rabiusa River one more time before the last stretch to the dammed lake at Egschi, where we were ending our hike. 

The north end of the dammed lake, where we started our other hike back in 2016. From here we headed up to the main road to catch the bus at Egschi.  

A look down at the lake. There was another bus stop further south, and closer, but at this time of day (3:45 p.m.) the western side of that valley is in shadow in many places. We would have had to wait 20 minutes in the shadow at the nearer bus stop. In Egschi we had sunshine. 

The dam here at Egschi. There has been a lot of waste wood carried down-river by recent storms. 

A farm at Egschi where there is a bus stop. We waited here in the sunshine for 15 minutes for the 16:04 bus. Buses run only every two hours up and down this valley.

A final look up the Safien Valley, Rabiusa River, Piz Beverin. 

These are the hikes we have done in this section of the Safien Valley and Glas Pass, including the short hike in winter of 2015 on the Camaner Alp. Earlier this year we walked from Tenna toward Versam in the north part of the valley, but higher up. And in 2016 we walked out of the valley on the east side. 

On the bus headed north out of the Safien Valley, we arrive in the village of Versam, where there is another historical church (which we have not yet visited). Behind that and below is the Rhine Gorge, where the bus is headed to the train station. 

Down in the Rhine Gorge at the Versam-Safien train station is where we board the train for the lovely ride through the Rhine Gorge to Chur. 

One of the largest rockslides in the world's history took place here millions of years ago, and the Rhine River has been carving through it since then. 

Train ride through the Rhine Gorge

Train ride through the Rhine Gorge

Here at Reichenau is where the Anterior and Posterior (Vorderrhein / Hinterrhein) join to form the main Rhine River which heads north from here to Lake Constance. 

These are all the hikes we have done to date around the Rhine Gorge, Safien Valley, Domleschg and Rheinwald (south of Piz Beverin). 

Location of the Safien Valley in Switzerland