Many Historical Sites along a 6-km Trail in the Blenio Valley

Saturday March 4, 2023... PART I -- It got cold again here, except for some reason in Biasca at the south end of the Leventina Valley (about 40km south of the Gotthard Tunnel), and for which they had predicted a high of 18 degrees!

Escaping the cold and fog we headed that way, to the Blenio Valley, a lovely and lesser-known side valley to the Leventina, where there are four historical themed trails highlighting art, churches, factories, historical figures of importance, of which we had done many sections already. 

In fact, the last time we were here was in April 2022, when we did part of the Historical Trail no.3 and touched on a few of the sites of Historical Trail no.1 (those photos are HERE).  At that time we wanted in particular to see the frescoes in the San Remigio chapel, but it was locked, and although we could have retraced our steps to pick up the key from a local's home, we decided to continue without seeing the interior.

This lovely day was a good time to return to San Remigio and finish off the sites of Historical Trail no.1, including a visit of the ruins of the Seravalle Castle. We prepared ahead and called Signora Gabriella Conceprio, who lives only about 100m away from the 11th Century chapel and its magnificent frescoes, to pick up the key....

After a 2-hour walk along the Sentiero Basso Blenio (Low Trail) to Semione, we caught a bus to Biasca at the entrance of the Blenio Valley, where we did another 1-hour loop trail to the two prominent church buildings there, and the Roman bridge over the famous double-waterfall (barely any water this time, and no double-fall at all). Those photos are HERE. And even though the day started cold, later in the afternoon it was really almost two warm for this hike!

Heading by bus from Biasca into the Blenio Valley. The river is called the Brenno River, and flows into the Ticino River at Biasca. 

Passing the town of Semione (on the bus), which will be the end of our hike, that church being the last item on the list of historical monuments

Also on the bus, going by the church of San Pietro, which we also passed on our walk back this way. We were shown the interior of this church on our previous hike on the historic trail a year earlier 

We got off the bus in Dongio on the east side of the Brenno River, and crossed to the West side on this covered, wooden bridge. 

This is the house where we picked up the key for San Remigio, from Mrs. Gabriella Conceprio. Luckily the chapel isn't too far down the road from here. 

First glimpse of the San Remigio Chapel. This little Romanesque chapel has its origins from the 11th Century. 

This first hike was a short one for us, starting in Dongio at 10:30 and just over 6 km along the Brenno River. We could have continued walking past Semione, but we wanted to see the churches and bridge in Biasca before the day was over. 

The key to San Remigio Chapel. (From here we continued along the "Sentiero Basso" = "The Low Trail" to Ludiano, and then to Semione)

I've got the key

It's hard work to unlock the chapel!

These frescoes are preserved from the 13th Century. Interestingly enough, they were covered by other paintings by a local and very prolific artist named Tarilli in the 17th Century, but during restoration they were able to copy his work before removal to expose the original frescoes. 

Details of the artwork and wooden ceiling of San Remigio

The walls of this side apse are the oldest part of the building, from the 12th Century 

In particular the altar was beautiful. It is a stone relief reconstruction of an 11th Century work.  (1904 by a local stone mason)

Information about the San Remigio Oratory. 

Map of Historical Trail no.1. On our two-hour walk we were able to inspect 9 of the 12 highlighted sites!

Our trail continues behind the sign.... for a change we were lucky, as the trail was actually closed until just the day before, due to forestry work. 

The next historical site is the Oratorio di Santa Maria, a 17th Century building which contains remnants of an earlier, 12th-Century build. Mrs. Gabriella Conceprio also has the key to this one, but she said it is in bad condition and no longer available to the public 

A peek through the mesh over the window gives us a look of the inside. It really is in bad shape. 

This building, as well as San Remigio, were important resting places for travelers crossing the Nara Pass between the Leventina and Blenio Valleys. 

More bridges. 

We've now reached the Brenno River. A look back upriver to Dongio, where we started our hike. 

A nice stretch along the Brenno River

Along the Brenno River

What a surprise that the bear garlic is already growing prolifically on the forest floor!

All the various first flowers we encountered along the way!

Looks like a prehistoric cave drawing!

Here's the San Pietro church, another Romanesque church from the 13th Century. You also have to arrange to get a key for this one, but we got to see it last year when we walked the trail on the other side of the river. 

Information about San Pietro states that this was originally the site of a 6th Century building. The church and its beautiful frescoes has been completely restored as of 1988.

The tiniest chair next to this door, I just had to sit here for a bit!

The next community we got to is Ludiano, and we detoured to see the beautiful parish church. We were very surprised that a church of this size was actually locked. 

Trying in vain to unlatch the huge doors of this church in Ludiano...

So we headed back up the hill again, with a look upvalley and the group of houses we had just passed through. There were quite a few vineyards here. 

Back on the trail again, we discovered the next historical site: The Grotti of Ludiano.  (from here we continued to Seravalle and Semione). 

Grotti (plural of the word Grotto) are small buildings made of stone and built into and under large boulders. Their main purpose was to keep cheese and wine cool. There are 20 such privately-owned buildings here. Some of them are set up to offer refreshments to passersby. 

From the site of the Grotti, a look across the roofs of Ludiano at the church we could not enter. 

This was a very interesting historical building which was actually not locked. It is the old grape press of Ludiano, built in 1756. 

With a 10-meter long lever, it is one of the largest wine presses in Canton Ticino, and one of only few still in operation during wine-production. The press belonged to several families with strict regulations on its use. 

One of several vineyards in the area

Next stop: The ruins of the Seravalle Castle in Semione

The Serravalle castle was once one of the most important strongholds of the region, with its strategic positioning on the Lukmanier road and near the junction of the valleys. Archeological digs which ended in 2006 found remains of an earlier 9th-Century castle which was destroyed in 1180.

The "current" castle, which was the residence and administration building of the nobles, was the second castle built on this site, mentioned in 1224, but also destroyed in 1402

The ruins of the Serravalle Castle. (13th Century build) 

The 14th Century Santa Maria Chapel next to the castle seems to have fared better. It also was locked but we also got a glimpse through the wire mesh window. These frescoes are again the work of the prolific local artist named Tarilli (1587)

A local landowner pruning his vines in the vineyard below the church. 

Final stretch to Semione, where we caught the bus in front of the church. 

On the other side of the valley we get a peek at the entrance of Val Malvaglia, where we have been twice before, and it's a favourite of ours as well. 

The town of Semione

The grounds of the parish church in Semione, with the stations of the cross. 

This 1730's Baroque church (Parish church of Semione) still sports the early 13th Century bell tower and some remains of the original foundation. 

The altar is Rococo.... and the front door was particularly beautiful. 

Next to the church is the "Totenkapelle" (Chapel of the Dead), restored in 2004, but with original frescoes from the second half of the 15th Century. 

Details on the "Chapel of the Dead" next to the church in Semione. 

From the church grounds, a view down the valley. Biasca is just around the corner...

Another look across the valley to the entrance of Val Malvaglia. It's hard to imagine that there is a large reservoir lake there, and several lovely communities. The photos of our two hikes there are worth looking at HERE and also HERE

What our 2-hour hike looks like on Google Satellite maps, with all the churches along the way!

The bus we took actually drove us back the way we came, to the main road in Motta, near the San Pietro church we passed. Here is the Castle church with the vineyard below it, and the town of Malvaglia on the other side. 

Below us the castle ruins as we head north on the bus

Passing San Pietro church, the Romanesque structure we visited a year ago. 

Here at the main road in Motta, we had to change to the bus to Biasca. This small church called "Oratorio della Natività di Maria", is also a site along one of the historical trails. We saw the interior last year, but it needs total renovation inside. They haven't gotten very far since last year. 

All the hikes we have done in the Blenio, Malvaglia, and Leventina Valleys. 

Location of the Blenio Valley in Switzerland. 

Helpful links for information about the Blenio Historical Trails:

Link to the full brochure with all four historical trails (a pdf download, in Italian, French and German only): HERE

Link to descriptions of all four historical trails in English:  HERE