Discovering Historical Monuments in the Beautiful Blenio Valley

Sunday April 10, 2022 -- As the late snowfall came down quite low in the Northern part of Switzerland, it was difficult for us to even plan a hike in the lower altitudes on this side of the Alps, even though it was a nice day for it.

So we went on another excursion into the Ticino, but into a less-traveled side valley called the Blenio Valley, where we had done a very lovely early Spring hike along the Sentiero Basso (Low Road) in 2019, from far back in the valley starting in Olivone, and walking almost 14 km South and ending at the old thermal baths of Acquarossa (those very nice photos can be viewed HERE). This time we started at Acquarossa where we ended last time, and continued South along parts of the Sentiero Basso again, but doing a loop tour this time, visiting historical sites and lots of churches along the way.

On the first part of the loop we climbed to a church on a higher plateau (not a very large ascent) from which we nevertheless got a nice view of this beautiful valley, but the rest of the hike was along the very flat valley bottom, which even though it offered some nice variety of things to see (like very old grape presses and community ice houses), was still a bit tedious for me.

On this loop (which combined parts of several historically-themed trails in the area) are, among other things, two old Romanesque church buildings (approx. 11th Century) containing significant frescoes which I love to look at, but as we got to the first one which was locked, there was a sign that we had to go get the key in the town we had just passed through, and we didn't want to backtrack, so we skipped that one. But I had my information booklet about the second one, and there was a number to call to get the key, so we arranged for the key owner to meet us at the church -- or churches for that matter -- one of which is currently being renovated (all the paintings were unfortunately off the walls), and the other which has a remaining section of the original 6th Century church built on that spot!

Once again, lots of photos, because there were so many interesting things to see.

On the way up the Blenio Valley toward Acquarossa, we pass the "Oratorio della Natività di Maria", one of the two churches in Motto at the very South end of our loop, the one where someone met us to unlock the church so we could look inside.

In Acquarossa at the start of our hike (there used to be a railway line which came up to here), we get a nice look North further up the Blenio Valley.

From Acquarossa (which means "Red Water"), our first stop is the church in Corzoneso, a short uphill climb for a view of the Valley as well (wonderful visibility this day). Then we return to the valley bottom and head to Dongio along the "Sentiero Basso", or "Lower Trail".

We started in Acquarossa, and climbed to Corzoneso, then back down to the Romanesque church at S.Remigio. Then we crossed the river and headed South on the East side of the River past the Ice House, the two old presses, and two groups of buildings called "Grotti" to Motto where we visited two churches. Then we returned to Dongio and Acquarossa via the old road and the old baths.

Heading uphill to Corzoneso

A fantastic view down the Blenio Valley

And a view up the valley! On the other side is one of the villages we passed through the first time we hiked down this valley, having started further up. (That would be Lottigna, with the fabulously heraldic-painted Palazzo del Pretorio)

Up ahead a glimpse of the parish church of Corzoneso: "Saints Nazzarro and Celso"

The Baroque Church was built in 1671 but still contains walls from the original church that stood here in 1211. Inside is artwork from various artists from the 16th Century and onwards.

Some of the beautiful artwork inside this church

A look down the valley from this upper plateau. On the left is the entrance to another of our favourite side valleys: Val Malvaglia

The community of Corzoneso

Everywhere along the way we run into shrines with old mural paintings

Heading back down the hill through forests where the first leaves are emerging, and lots of trees in blossom now!

Heading South through this community to our next stop of interest: The Romanesque Church of San Remigio. What we didn't know is that we should have arranged to pick up the key here!

Walking along the Historical Trail no.1, and the "Sentiero Basso" (Low Road)

A look to the Alps to the North

It's nice to see some colour again...

The Romanesque church "Oratorio San Remigio" was first mentioned in documents of 1249, but its origin dates from the 11th Century!

All the points of interest along this loop were highlighted with such information placards from which we always glean some interesting facts!

We had our lunch on a bench across from this building, but were disappointed that it was locked. But we didn't want to return to the village we had passed through, to get the key.

Since we were not able to see the inside of the chapel, I found some photos by a Wiki Commons user named Adrian Michael (credit here). Fabulous artwork. These frescoes are from the 13th Century but weren't discovered until the restoration of the church in 1946, as they had been covered by other artwork by a local artist named Tarilli, (early 17th Century). Amazing that these could be restored!

Some fantastic flowering trees

A gradual blossoming and greening of the Ticino forests!

Crossing the Brenno River at Dongio, and heading South

First we headed South ending at Motto, and then we returned to this point and headed North to Acqua Rossa along the original old highway on the East side of the river.

A building of historical interest: The "Ghiacciaia" or "Neviera" (Ice Cellar), built in 1874 and in use until the 1930's for the conservation of meat. Snow was packed into a deep cylindrical room and watered to turn it to ice. The cold air came from clefts within the mountain.

Heading South along the Grotti on the left.

Grotti are small stone houses which served as cellars to store wine and milk products. Most of them are empty now.

Another building of historical interest: The Torchio, or Lever Press (probably for grapes), built in 1789. We let ourselves in via the large metal slide bolt on the door. This one wasn't locked!

This wooden lever press built in 1789 is a cultural monument of Canton Ticino.

Another look down the Blenio Valley

The parish church in Dongio was built in approx. 1760 in late Baroque and Rococo styles. We stopped by for a quick look on our way back.

Another collection of Grotti (Grotti di Marogno)

Now we've reached the "Oratorio della Natività di Maria", which we saw on our way up on the bus. We had called ahead to the "keeper of the keys" (Signor Giorgio Oliva), who was waiting for us to show us the church. On the outside the restorations are finished, but inside there is a lot of work to do!

All the beautiful paintings have been removed and stored, and the crumbling walls revealed.

All of this artwork from the 16th and 17th Century needs to be cleaned!

It's like being in an art museum, only not as tiring

Also a very nice ceiling in the "Oratorio della Natività di Maria"

Signor Oliva took us by car to the other church just down the road. This is "Chiesa di San Pietro", the other Romanesque church on our tour. This one was built in the 13th Century on the location of the original structure from the 6th Century, a section of which is still visible inside the church.

Following Signor Oliva to the entrance of the San Pietro Church.

The graveyard at San Pietro in Motto

The painted murals inside the church are from between 14th and 19th Centuries.

The original frescoes in the church apse are from end of the 15th Century, but were "painted over" later in mid-19th-Century.

Now we are heading back northward toward Dongio. What a lovely forest thick with bear garlic! We stopped here on the bench for a coffee break, right in the midst of all that green.

Heading back northwards along the Blenio Valley from Motto to Dongio to Acquarossa

Many such stone barns along the way

Another point of interest which we actually passed on our way down valley, but which you can see better maybe from here further West, are the refuges built into the cliffs high up on the hill. There are several of these in this region, which offered refuge for villagers from whatever dangers may have afflicted them in the middle ages.

The cliff refuge at Dongio (called "Casa dei Pagani") was built in the 11th Century and is the best visible of these refuges in the region. This one is a cultural monument of national importance.

Following the Brenno River

The "Vecchia Strada del Satro" (Old Satro Road) from Dongio to Acquarossa was built in 1801 and used by horse-drawn coaches to transfer guests to the mineral baths at Acquarossa.

A brimstone butterfly. They are usually too quick for me to photograph!

The entrance to the old baths of Acquarossa

Splendid magnolias

A look at the old mineral bath facilities in Acquarossa (Acquarossa means "Red Water". The springs probably had a high iron content). The original name of the village, "Aquam rubeam" goes back to 1446, and the hotsprings were first mentioned in 1577. They are no longer in use.