A Section of the Alpine Panorama Trail between Trogen and Appenzell

Saturday March 18, 2023 -- National Trail no.3: "Alpine Panorama Trail" stretching 510 km from Lake Constance in the Northeast to Lake Geneva in the Southwest is a good one for us to walk as there aren't too many large uphill sections, and the sections can mostly be done in day trips. We like to walk this trail in spring while waiting for the snow to melt in the mountains. Of course we try to do sections on this trail when visibility is good, because, like the name implies, we want to get views of the Alps!

So on this Saturday we traveled to the Appenzell Cantons for a 4-hour and 13-km hike starting in the historical town of Trogen (home of the Zellweger textile moguls) and ending near the town of Appenzell, crossing the canton border of the two Appenzell Cantons at Bühler. For a large part of the hike we had views of the Alpstein Massif (and Mount Säntis) ahead of us. Otherwise there was a fair amount of pastureland and lovely Appenzell houses to admire. Along the way we discovered information panels with lots of interesting historical information, including an 1849 travel itinerary from Basel to Milano, which took 50 hours to complete!

Originally I thought much of the trail would be on paved roads, but we had a large amount of pasture and forest trails which were fairly dry, unusual for this time of year. 

The adventure starts at the train station in St.Gallen, where we had time for a popular "Olma Bratwurst" snack at 10 a.m., before  heading to the second trainstation, where the Appenzell Railway operates out of. 

The Appenzell Train (actually a kind of tram) drives through the city of St.Gallen on its run between Trogen (our destination) and Appenzell

Heading up the hill in the Appenzell train toward its end destination of Trogen. This is a  view of Lake Constance to the North. (Bodensee)

The train station in Trogen. We got here at 11 a.m. and spent 30 minutes looking at the town before heading on our hike. 

Rows of houses in Trogen

Fun window decorations

An unusual large square fountain made of metal. You don't see many of these. 

The main square in Trogen, called the "Landesgemeindeplatz" (Cantonal Municipal Square) where citizens used to congregate for important events including voting by show of hands. On either side are the "palaces" built by the Zellweger Family for their various children

Reading up on information about the Landesgemeindeplatz

As long as until 1996, voting was held in public like this every two years in Trogen at the Municipal Square. 

Of course we had to have a look into the Reformed Church in Trogen

Light and airy with unusually large windows in the church in Trogen

Reading up on the interesting details on the houses in the square. This one, which is now a hotel, was originally built in 1727 by (one of the) Conrad Zellweger for one of his sons.

Various houses (called palaces) built by Conrad Zellweger in the 18th Century for his children. 

One of the many Conrad Zellwegers in the family. A very important personage in local politics. This is the fellow who built all the pretty houses (they called them castles) for his children.  Zellweger Family Tree.

The large wooden house on the south side of the square is the oldest on the Landesgemeinde Platz. This one was built in 1650 for the "elder" Conrad Zellweger, who together with his brother established a large textile industry supplying all parts of Europe at the time. 

Next to the main house on the square is the "new" wash house, built in 1860 to replace the old wooden one. (This has been converted into a mini-museum depicting the family tree of the wealthy Zellwegers.). Of note is that a large wash was done twice per year and took over a week! It was a status symbol to have clean clothes. 

Some really nice window shutter details in this village!

A final look down the road at the Hotel Krone in the main square as we head off on our hike southwards (11:30 a.m.) 

The hike from Trogen to Appenzell-Sammelplatz took about four hours. We chose not to walk down to Appenzell town this time, as it took longer and we had walked that stretch on New Year's Day this year (photos are HERE).

Starting uphill on our hike toward Appenzell, this is a look back to the another section of Trail no.3 to the Northeast. We walked that way in April 2019 and passed over the hills in the back. Those photos are HERE.

The well-known Pestalozzi Children's Village just outside of Trogen. Johann Heinrich Pestalozzi was the founder of modern education, who was "particularly focused on the power of education to help the poor". More info HERE

The first uphill section on a nice forest trail

This is the view north to Lake Constance (Bodensee), perhaps the best view of the lake this day). 

Such well-kept farms in the entire region

The highest point of our first ascent is called "Hohe Buche", where we got our first glimpse of Mt. Säntis and the Alpstein Massif. There was a restaurant here, but we chose to walk down to a nearby bench for our picnic lunch. 

I had to hurry to appropriate the bench, as there were people coming up the hill who also wanted the bench! We had our picnic here at 1 p.m. 

The view from our picnic bench, over the rolling hills of Cantons Appenzell AR and IR

There was a themed trail here where we learned some interesting information. This one has notable dates in history, including National Exhibitions, the building of tunnels and railways, the start of the Nestlé company, and various important battles. What we found most fascinating was the 1850 itinerary for the 50-hour trip from Basel to Milan! Oh, and that women were finally allowed to vote in 1971 in Appenzell.

Reading up on some more information... and a look behind us where we came down from Hohe Buche (where we had our picnic lunch)

Continuing on soft pasture trails down the hill. 

A very nice garden with loads of new spring flowers around this tree

Crocuses and snowbells, the first spring flowers!

Down below us is the town of Bühler, approximately the half-way point of our hike. On the far side of the village is the Canton border between Appenzell Ausserrhoden (predominantly Protestant) and Appenzell Innerrhoden (predominantly Catholic).. 

Buying refreshments and cheese from a farm shop, which we do on almost every walk. And CATS, because we always encounter cats. 

Less usual sheep

After we came over the second hill, we could see down to Urs' brother's house!

It's spring time in Switzerland, and you can smell it!

VIDEO:

The manure is flying!

My feet needed another break, so we sat on that bench under the tree near the chapel, for about 10 minutes. The chapel was built in 1900 by a local as a thank you for answered prayers. 

This was the view we had as we rested on the little bench near the chapel

Down below us is the city of Appenzell, although we didn't walk down there this time. We eventually headed to the left, to one of the stations on the Appenzell-Trogen Line, from where we traveled back to St.Gallen. 

A close-up look at the Austrian Alps to the Northeast

An attractive Appenzell Farm

Along the way, we joined the Appenzell Chapel trail and visited the little Lehn chapel on our way to the train station at Sammelplatz

Another interesting farmhouse

Always some cute decorating details

"Sammelplatz" means "Gathering Place". A painting on the bakery across the street from the train stop explains that the citizens (mostly farmers) of the region gathered here for the Battle of Stoos nearby in 1405. 400 farmers managed to ambush and overpower 1200 invading Austrian troops.

In light blue, our hike from Trogen toward Appenzell. The other lines are various hikes in the area. 

The location of St.Gallen and Appenzell within Switzerland