Thursday September 23, 2021 -- On our second day in the Rheinwald Valley, we took a bus up to the Splügen Pass (not very high at 2114m) because we wanted to look into Italy (not much to see there, although the bus continues on the Italian side all the way to Chiavenna) and then we walked partly back down the valley, before tackling a large ascent to two very pretty lakes called Surettaseen (Suretta Lakes).
Centuries ago, the people of this valley used to cross the Splügen and San Bernardino Passes with mule trains to trade their goods at southern markets. Even long before that, the Romans used these passages to reach Northern Europe. To make the trails easier for the animals, they were painstakingly "paved" with rocks. It is overwhelming to think how we now walk these trails as a pastime, where thousands of feet already walked here over 2000 years ago for much other purposes!....
On our way to the pass, we had a stopover in Splügen, which is the main village of the five villages in the Rheinwald Valley and one of the oldest in Canton Graubünden, so we did a quick early morning walk-through. The five-hour hike we did afterwards also ended in Splügen, so we had another look at it in the evening light, as well as enjoying a meal there of a local dish called Capuns, which are chard leaves wrapped around a filling of spätzli dough and various dried regional meats (including Landjäger!). Mmm!!
There was a cold wind blowing on our way down from the pass, so it was the first time I used my scarf and gloves! Once we started on the ascent, it got warm enough. Most impressive on this hike besides the landscape and the mule trails, of course, was the switchback road up to the pass... it never fails to amaze me how this country is full of winding and switchback roads in order to pass over these mountains!
Early morning (8:20) look out the front window of foyer of the beautiful house we were staying in! (Unfortunately not the view out of our studio apartment).
Our accommodation for three nights (two small windows on the left toward the back!). A few hundred years ago, this used to be the stopping place for the mule trains on their way over the Splügen and San Bernardino Passes.
Early morning look at the little village of Nufenen as we wait for the bus along the highway.
This highway passes through the Rheinwald Valley, but one is hardly aware of it. It heads through the San Bernardino Tunnel just a couple of kilometers from here. Before the construction of the tunnel and the highway, this valley was busy with alpine trading. But since then it reverted to agriculture. The Hinterrhein has its source in the mountains at the back.
An 8-minute bus ride takes us to Splügen, which is the main village in the valley, and where we'd originally looked for accommodation, but it was all booked out! This village is considered of "National importance" in Switzerland, and won the Wakker Prize in 1995 for outstanding village planning.
We had a 35-minute stopover in Splügen and that was plenty of time to look through the entire village (excepting a visit to the church). Here are a few impressions of the village of Splügen in the early morning (10 a.m.)
We discovered the Weiss Kreuz Hotel, which also used to be a "Sumpter" house, i.e. a stopping and resting place for the mule trains on their way over the Splügen Pass
The luxury hotel used to be an inn for the traders and their mule trains passing over the Splügen Pass centuries ago
View of the church in Splügen as seen through the window of the foyer in the "Hotel Weiss Kreuz"
From Splügen it takes 25 minutes by bus to reach the Italian border on the Splügen Pass. This switchback road to the pass is quite amazing!
The Berghaus Splügenpass was built in the early 19th Century when still about 400-500 animals and coaches crossed the Splügen Pass, which at the time was the most-crossed passage in Canton Graubünden.
Here we are at the Splügen Pass, looking South into the Italian countryside (not a lot to see here!) as our Italian Bus continues on to Chiavenna.
The Splügen Pass, at barely 2100m above sea level and quite wide and low, was the most traveled mountain pass in Canton Graubünden until the tunnels were built under the San Bernardino and Gotthard Passes.
From the Splügen Pass, we walked North along the old mule trail for 3 km (45 minutes) and then detoured to the Suretta Lakes. This was a long, almost 2-hour climb, but the pain of the ascent is forgotten as soon as we reach the highest point! The final 90-minute descent to Splügen was through the larch forest. Pleasant, but not a lot to see there.
Heading North down the valley along the old mule trail. This is actually part of the official trail called "Via Spluga".
A closer look at the fabulous road built about 2000 years ago to cross the Splügen Pass. Until the construction of the paved roads and tunnels, this was an important trade route.
A look at the new paved road up to the Splügen Pass
After 3 km, we crossed the river and headed up to the Suretta Lakes, an approx. 2-hour ascent!
A good look at the Splügen Pass behind us, from where we descended!
As we ascend more and more, a beautiful snow-covered peak appears. This is called Pizzo Tambo and the Italian-Swiss border runs right across the top. It is 3270m high and there is a bit of remaining glacier at its base (just visible here)
A closer look at the new Splügen pass road which we ascended by bus, and the old mule trail which we decended on foot, more to the left.
On the way up to the Suretta Lakes
Panorama View from Mt. Tambo on the left, and into the Rheinwald Valley below (with the village of Splügen)
As we go higher, more of the Rheinwald Valley opens up until we can finally see the village of Nufenen, which is our base for these four days.
Another 40 minutes to go to the lakes, and then we have to return here for the descent to Splügen, which takes another 90 minutes!
So we finally reached the first lake! Pizzo Tambo in the background, and you can see the Tambo Glacier now. Interesting note: People have taken thousands of photos of a similar lake with the Matterhorn in the background, (near Zermatt in Canton Valais), but this is just as beautiful, and here there are NO other people!
Here at the second and higher lake is where we had our picnic lunch
Before we start back down to Splügen, we tried out some self-timed photos!
It got cold up here at the Suretta Lakes, because exactly here there was some cloud cover. Even though this is quite a barren landscape, it is our favourite.
Heading back down from the Suretta Lakes.
This is our final view into the Rheinwald Valley before we reach the larch forests (we are a bit too early in the season for the beautiful yellow that the trees will soon be sporting). From here the final 90-minute descent was on an easy zigzagging trail through the forest. Urs found it monotonous, but I found it refreshing.
First view of the village of Splügen as we reach the valley bottom.
The village church (Protestant) in Splügen
This beautiful building which used to be the customs house, now is the location of the Cantonal Police.
Crossing the bridge over the Hinterrhein, into the main part of Splügen.
Because we hadn't seen the church earlier in the day, we made a quick detour up the hill. The churches here in Graubünden are primarily protestant, and feature lots of carved wood inside.
We found a little restaurant in a side street where we enjoyed a local specialty called "Capuns", which are mangold leaves (Swiss Chard) rolled around a filling of Spätzli dough and various local dried meats.
Flowers just add so much beauty to these houses!
This is the Hinterrhein, which is one of the two major rivers which form the source of the Rhine River.
Interesting side note: Villages also have Catholic churches here, but they seem to be an afterthought, tiny additions to residential homes?
Information about the village of Splügen: It is one of the oldest and most typical villages in Canton Graubünden.
How our hike looks on Google Earth Maps.
The best part of returning to our accommodation in Nufenen are the chickens, who apparently have the run of the entire village!!!
This is the region of Switzerland where the Rheinwald Valley is located:
Finally we had some summer in September! And also finally an actual vacation week that we could use for another longer hiking trip! On the spur of the moment we decided on four days in Canton Graubünden (that's Urs' favourite) in an area we've never been before: Rheinwald, which is where the mighty Rhine River has its second official source, namely the Hinterrhein, or Posterior Rhine. (Just the week before we had been in the Surselva where the other source is: The Vorderrhein or Anterior Rhine). This beautiful valley near the San Bernardino Pass, (which quickly became one of our favourites), is directly North of the border with Italy. In fact, this valley is in the very Southern part of one of Switzerland's Nature Parks: Park Beverin.
We also lucked out to find an inexpensive rental studio in a beautifully-renovated 300-year old "sumpter house" (such houses were used to accommodate mule trains crossing the alpine passes in the middle ages). The family who owns it also runs a farm with 50 goats and three cows in this little village of Nufenen (ca. 170 residents), one of five villages in the Rheinwald Valley, and soon also our favourite.
DAY 1 of 4: Val Ferrera and the Rofla Gorge
When we spend a night away, we always plan a hike on the way to our accommodation. In this case, Urs had heard about a lesser-known gorge called the Rofla Gorge, which is located where the Avers Rhine from the Ferrera Valley meets the Hinterrhein from Rheinwald. We made this the goal of our first day hike, starting about 10 kilometers up the Ferrera Valley in a village called Innerferrera.
Between the villages Innerferrera and Ausserferrera, the valley trail (Walserweg) follows mostly the main road, and it also looked to have a lot of shade because this is a narrow valley, so we opted to walk the higher mountain trail between those two villages, in the hope of having a view. Unfortunately, there were too many trees and also still too much morning shade, so this section was rather boring and cold, and the descent was tough.
After descending to Ausserferrera and crossing the Ferrera Rhine River, we continued through the ravine along the river (also lots of afternoon shade now, but still some sunshine) until we got to the Rofla Gorge, which turned out to be the highlight of the day: There is a restaurant here and the property is privately-owned. The original owner hand-blasted a gallery trail through the gorge during the winters between 1907 and 1914, and this trail is available to the public for a small fee. It was eerie and beautiful here in the gorge, and the gallery even passes under the waterfall created by the Rhine River. To access the trail, you have to enter the restaurant, pay the fee, and exit through an unobtrusive side door. It's a real hidden gem!
And lastly, after a 30-minute bus ride, we arrived in Nufenen, and after depositing our small packs in the beautiful studio apartment, we did a little round-tour of the village of Nufenen in the late afternoon sunshine...
The start of our hike in Innerferrera in the Ferrera Valley
In Canton Graubünden, the main religion is "Evangelical/Reformed" and the churches are less ornate than the Catholic ones, much more simple and with lots of wood. Smells beautifully of pine instead of incense. On the other hand, the schools (lower left) are painted with ornate facades! Excavations showed there used to be an older church here. The beautiful bell on display was cast in 1522, probably at the same time as the original church was built. (Before the Reformation)
Buses have to pass through narrow spaces between the buildings!
A small tour of the village of Innerferrera before we head uphill on the high trail down the valley
A view down onto the village of Innerferrera
After rounding this corner, we came into the shady side of the mountain, and then it got cold, with a cold wind as well!
The view down the Ferrera Valley. Below on the left is a lake, but we were not able to see it (too many trees).
In this clearing where we had our picnic lunch, there were two houses in sunny locations. We spoke with the owner of one of them, a mountain farmer who was doing the winter preparations and a bit of hunting.
On our way down along a steep and rough trail. This is one very big boulder!
A view through the trees of the village of Ausserferrera below. From there we continued down the valley along the river
A quick detour to the bridge over the river (here it's called the Ferrera Rhine, a feeder of the Hinterrhein which exits the Rofla Gorge further down the valley) before heading through Ausserferrera
Goats roaming free through the forest and watching us carefully....
Heading through the village of Aussserferrera before continuing along the river down the valley
Flowers on the houses make all the difference.
The fountains also look prettier with flowers!
A look back as we leave Ausserferrera. We walked along the mountainside at the level of the power lines
Also a look back up the Ferrera Valley
Crossing the Ferrera Rhine River to continue down-valley on the left side of the river (This is looking up-valley)
The first part of this trail was difficult to walk as it was all roots and slippery from moisture. It took us longer than expected and we were in a hurry.
A look to the other side to the road that goes up the Ferrera Valley
Some impressions of the first part of the trail along the river. This trail by the way is called the "Walserweg"
At one point we actually were down at river level. Lots of shade here now at 3 p.m.!
Out of the Ferrera Valley now and headed toward the Rofla Gorge, we had more sunshine here.
We were actually surprised that there was sunshine here at the Rofla Gorge, but the afternoon sun was shining exactly down the gorge where the Hinterrhein River flows.
We paid our 4 CHF and headed through the restaurant side door to access the gorge trail. A plaque commemorates the owner of the restaurant who hand-blasted the trail in the winters of 1907 to 1914.
The gorge and cliff trail were fascinating, and definitely worth the 4 CHF entry fee!
Heading toward the waterfall where the Posterior Rhine plunges into the gorge. The trail is built to pass under the waterfall!
VIDEO:
Fascinating Rofla Gorge (my own YouTube Video)
The trail to the waterfall was "hand-carved" (holes for dynamite drilled by hand)
by Christian Pitschen-Melchior in the winters of 1907 to 1914
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Heading back to the restaurant and to catch the 4 p.m. bus to our accommodations in the next valley over.
A four-hour and 12-km hike along the Ferrera Valley from Innerferrera to the Rofla Gorge. Then a 30-minute bus ride up the Rheinwald Valley to Nufenen, where we spent three nights in a 300-year old house....
A view of the village of Nufenen from the bus stop along the highway. There are about 170 people living in this village. Lots of cows and chickens walking the village main road...
This road is called "Italienische Strasse", or Italian Road, and a short walk past the church is our accommodation.
The beautifully-renovated 300-year-old Sumpter House which has its own little farm shop as well!
The owners of the house offer a studio to rent (which we did), a larger apartment, and several single B&B rooms.
Some impressions of the village of Nufenen on our evening walk.
A look down onto the village of Nufenen from higher up.
And just steps away from our accommodation is the local dairy, which offers plenty of cheese and joghurt for three days worth of breakfasts and picnics!!!!
Here are a couple of photos of the inside of the beautiful house: Each of the two stories had a large foyer with flag-stone floors and rooms leading off it on either side:
