A Walk from Village to Village along the Hinterrhein River

Saturday July 23, 2022: DAY 3 of our five-day Vacation in Rheinwald, Graubünden

The day had been planned with a reservation on a different Alpine Taxi, one starting in the Ferrera Valley where we had been the first day, and going into the Valle di Lei (that valley which just touched onto the border of Switzerland at the old Avers Road -- photos are HERE), where there is a large dam which belongs to Switzerland even though the lake itself and the valley belong to Italy.

Unfortunately we woke up to heavy rain and thunderstorms (welcome in this heat but rather unpleasant for hiking) so we cancelled the bus and returned to bed. Later, when the rain had stopped, we figured why not simply start walking right from our building down the valley parallel to the Hinterrhein River? (The Hinterrhein River is one of the two major headwaters of the 1200-km Rhine River and has its source here). There was one more village we hadn't discovered yet, the next one over called Medels, so off we went. We continued on to Splügen, it took us just over two hours to get there. Timing was good, as there was a bus heading back up valley. Two hours isn't long enough for us to walk, so we stayed on the bus till the uppermost village (also called Hinterrhein) and from there we walked back to our accommodation. 

In total, it was another 13 km as well, and we only got lightly rained on twice. Originally we had thought to go to a restaurant for dinner, but we didn't feel like heading out again. The house we stayed at had its own shop on street level, and we found they were selling hand-made Capuns (a local specialty sort of like cabbage rolls) so we simply baked them up for dinner.

It was sufficient for this day, because the weather promised to be very good for the next day, and we had a 5-hour hike planned....

A look back at the village of Nufenen as we head East toward the next village: Medels, and ultimately on to Splügen, the main village in this valley. It's already 11:30 a.m., but we waited for a break in the rain. 

The first walk we did was 8 km from Nufenen to Splügen. Then we took the bus back but past Nufenen to Hinterrhein Village, further back in the valley. 

Sometimes we run across random sculptures made with the chainsaw that cut down the tree! We also got caught in a bit of a drizzle

Giving the cows a wide berth... there were a couple of babies in the pasture, and the cows watch us carefully!

A nice display of cow bells

Small old chapel in Medels

Village of Medels

Heading on toward Splügen

A selection of Walser-style buildings as we approach Splügen

Splügen is the main village in the Rheinwald Valley. We approached it from the West

Splügen is one of the oldest and most typical mountain pass villages in Canton Graubünden. 

Imagine the work it took to build this road back in the Middle Ages

I love fountains!

A little walk through Splügen admiring the beautiful buildings

Heading down to the main road now

A look at Splügen from the East side

The bridge across the Hinterrhein River, looking westward (up valley)

Main street in Splügen. It's now 2:15 p.m. and we are just in time for a bus which is heading toward the San Bernardino Tunnel. (Back the way we came)

Heading back past Medels on the bus

An 8-minute ride on the bus and we are in Hinterrhein Village, ready for a second hike along the Hinterrhein River back to Nufenen Village

This second walk was 5 kilometers, from Hinterrhein village back to Nufenen. 

A look up-valley to where the Hinterrhein (Posterior Rhine) has its source. The San Bernardino Pass is on the left. 

First a detour to the old bridge (built in 1692). From here we could walk up to the San Bernardino Pass, but we are walking along the "Rheinquellenweg", or "Rhine Source Trail"

Behind me is the village of Hinterrhein (same name as the river). We didn't walk through it this time as we had inspected it last year. (Those photos are HERE)

This is the "young" Hinterrhein River, one of the most important headwaters of the 1200-km long Rhine River. Its source is in the mountains at the back of this valley. 

There is a major highway through the Rheinwald Valley, providing access to Canton Tessin through the San Bernardino Tunnel. The noise of the traffic does not bother me. 

Suspension bridges are always great!

We discovered a great waterfall with a clear pool, and had a break here. We were also graced with a bit of sunshine at this point!

I had just finished dipping my feet in the cold mountain water... and my face apparently also!

VIDEO:

The Waterfall

Continuing down-river, we got caught in a burst of light rain for the second time this day. Good thing my sister gave me this plastic cover, which I always have along! (It does get hot though)

I said to Urs, "It would be nice to have a tree to stand under", and then I saw the goats taking cover here. Turns out these are the goats which pass by our accommodation twice each day! Our host told me this tree is very important for them.

An easy 5-km walk along the Hinterrhein River, a headwater to the major Rhine River. 

And here is the village of Nufenen... back "home" now

The "two" hikes we did formed a joint 13-km stretch between four of the five villages in the Rheinwald Valley. 

Back at the apartment, we purchased the Capuns out of the freezer in the inhouse shop, and baked them up in our oven. Not as good as the ones in the restaurant, because they were dry and we had no sauce. 

The 300-year-old former traveler's inn has been lovingly renovated by the Baschung Family into two rentable apartments and a B&B, plus a shop that sells local products. They live in it as well with their four boys.

In the shop you can buy all kinds of local meats, cheeses, eggs, sirups, pasta and more, including the capuns handmade by a local person

The entrance...

Upper floor, each boy has a room here, and we access our studio from here as well

Studio apartment which we have now rented twice. The only thing missing is a balcony, but there are plenty of places to sit outdoors. 

The walls are about two feet thick! Keeps it cool in summer...

Capuns are a local dish made of Spätzle dough mixed with dried meats, and rolled in Swiss Chard leaves. We baked up this local product instead of going to a restaurant to order them. 

Walk down the Ferrera Valley to the Rofla Gorge (Four-Day Trip to Rheinwald)

Finally we had some summer in September! And also finally an actual vacation week that we could use for another longer hiking trip! On the spur of the moment we decided on four days in Canton Graubünden (that's Urs' favourite) in an area we've never been before: Rheinwald, which is where the mighty Rhine River has its second official source, namely the Hinterrhein, or Posterior Rhine. (Just the week before we had been in the Surselva where the other source is: The Vorderrhein or Anterior Rhine). This beautiful valley near the San Bernardino Pass, (which quickly became one of our favourites), is directly North of the border with Italy. In fact, this valley is in the very Southern part of one of Switzerland's Nature Parks: Park Beverin. 

We also lucked out to find an inexpensive rental studio in a beautifully-renovated 300-year old "sumpter house" (such houses were used to accommodate mule trains crossing the alpine passes in the middle ages). The family who owns it also runs a farm with 50 goats and three cows in this little village of Nufenen (ca. 170 residents), one of five villages in the Rheinwald Valley, and soon also our favourite. 

DAY 1 of 4: Val Ferrera and the Rofla Gorge

When we spend a night away, we always plan a hike on the way to our accommodation. In this case, Urs had heard about a lesser-known gorge called the Rofla Gorge, which is located where the Avers Rhine from the Ferrera Valley meets the Hinterrhein from Rheinwald. We made this the goal of our first day hike, starting about 10 kilometers up the Ferrera Valley in a village called Innerferrera. 

Between the villages Innerferrera and Ausserferrera, the valley trail (Walserweg) follows mostly the main road, and it also looked to have a lot of shade because this is a narrow valley, so we opted to walk the higher mountain trail between those two villages, in the hope of having a view. Unfortunately, there were too many trees and also still too much morning shade, so this section was rather boring and cold, and the descent was tough. 

After descending to Ausserferrera and crossing the Ferrera Rhine River, we continued through the ravine along the river (also lots of afternoon shade now, but still some sunshine) until we got to the Rofla Gorge, which turned out to be the highlight of the day: There is a restaurant here and the property is privately-owned. The original owner hand-blasted a gallery trail through the gorge during the winters between 1907 and 1914, and this trail is available to the public for a small fee. It was eerie and beautiful here in the gorge, and the gallery even passes under the waterfall created by the Rhine River. To access the trail, you have to enter the restaurant, pay the fee, and exit through an unobtrusive side door. It's a real hidden gem!

And lastly, after a 30-minute bus ride, we arrived in Nufenen, and after depositing our small packs in the beautiful studio apartment, we did a little round-tour of the village of Nufenen in the late afternoon sunshine...

The start of our hike in Innerferrera in the Ferrera Valley

In Canton Graubünden, the main religion is "Evangelical/Reformed" and the churches are less ornate than the Catholic ones, much more simple and with lots of wood. Smells beautifully of pine instead of incense. On the other hand, the schools (lower left) are painted with ornate facades! Excavations showed there used to be an older church here. The beautiful bell on display was cast in 1522, probably at the same time as the original church was built. (Before the Reformation)

Buses have to pass through narrow spaces between the buildings!

A small tour of the village of Innerferrera before we head uphill on the high trail down the valley

A view down onto the village of Innerferrera

After rounding this corner, we came into the shady side of the mountain, and then it got cold, with a cold wind as well!

The view down the Ferrera Valley. Below on the left is a lake, but we were not able to see it (too many trees). 

In this clearing where we had our picnic lunch, there were two houses in sunny locations. We spoke with the owner of one of them, a mountain farmer who was doing the winter preparations and a bit of hunting. 

On our way down along a steep and rough trail. This is one very big boulder!

A view through the trees of the village of Ausserferrera below. From there we continued down the valley along the river

A quick detour to the bridge over the river (here it's called the Ferrera Rhine, a feeder of the Hinterrhein which exits the Rofla Gorge further down the valley) before heading through Ausserferrera

Goats roaming free through the forest and watching us carefully....

Heading through the village of Aussserferrera before continuing along the river down the valley

Flowers on the houses make all the difference. 

The fountains also look prettier with flowers!

A look back as we leave Ausserferrera. We walked along the mountainside at the level of the power lines

Also a look back up the Ferrera Valley

Crossing the Ferrera Rhine River to continue down-valley on the left side of the river (This is looking up-valley)

The first part of this trail was difficult to walk as it was all roots and slippery from moisture. It took us longer than expected and we were in a hurry. 

A look to the other side to the road that goes up the Ferrera Valley

Some impressions of the first part of the trail along the river. This trail by the way is called the "Walserweg"

At one point we actually were down at river level. Lots of shade here now at 3 p.m.!

Out of the Ferrera Valley now and headed toward the Rofla Gorge, we had more sunshine here. 

We were actually surprised that there was sunshine here at the Rofla Gorge, but the afternoon sun was shining exactly down the gorge where the Hinterrhein River flows. 

We paid our 4 CHF and headed through the restaurant side door to access the gorge trail. A plaque commemorates the owner of the restaurant who hand-blasted the trail in the winters of 1907 to 1914.

The gorge and cliff trail were fascinating, and definitely worth the 4 CHF entry fee!

Heading toward the waterfall where the Posterior Rhine plunges into the gorge. The trail is built to pass under the waterfall!

VIDEO:

Fascinating Rofla Gorge (my own YouTube Video)

The trail to the waterfall was "hand-carved" (holes for dynamite drilled by hand)

by Christian Pitschen-Melchior in the winters of 1907 to 1914

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Heading back to the restaurant and to catch the 4 p.m. bus to our accommodations in the next valley over. 

A four-hour and 12-km hike along the Ferrera Valley from Innerferrera to the Rofla Gorge. Then a 30-minute bus ride up the Rheinwald Valley to Nufenen, where we spent three nights in a 300-year old house.... 

A view of the village of Nufenen from the bus stop along the highway. There are about 170 people living in this village. Lots of cows and chickens walking the village main road... 

This road is called "Italienische Strasse", or Italian Road, and a short walk past the church is our accommodation. 

The beautifully-renovated 300-year-old Sumpter House which has its own little farm shop as well!

The owners of the house offer a studio to rent (which we did), a larger apartment, and several single B&B rooms. 

Some impressions of the village of Nufenen on our evening walk. 

A look down onto the village of Nufenen from higher up. 

And just steps away from our accommodation is the local dairy, which offers plenty of cheese and joghurt for three days worth of breakfasts and picnics!!!!

Here are a couple of photos of the inside of the beautiful house: Each of the two stories had a large foyer with flag-stone floors and rooms leading off it on either side: