Over the Safierberg Pass into the Safien Valley

Monday July 25, 2022:  Final Day of 5-day trip to Rheinwald in Beverin Nature Park

We had purposefully planned to add Monday to our hiking week because there was another Alpine Taxi offered on Monday, one which took us 460m up the mountain to the North of the town of Splügen, to a lone mountain alpine farm called Alp Stutz. This saved us 90 minutes of uphill walking, and we only had another two hours to get to the pass called Safierberg (another 600m ascent). 

The ascent went well, but was a bit monotonous, as the landscape didn't change much. Once we got to the pass, though, the view into the Safien Valley was spectacular. The descent to the bus stop at Turrahus in the very back of this valley took us another 2.5 hours, and by the time we got there, we were glad to get out of the heat with something cold to drink at the Gasthaus there.

All that remained was a very long bus ride (approx 1 hour, made longer by the massive amount of work going on on this mountain road) north out of this valley to join the Rhine Canyon, which is a natural marvel always worth a visit. Almost four hours to get home, but that was the reason for staying in one place and doing day excursions from there.

Interesting Note: There were thunderstorms predicted for the Safien Valley at around 3 p.m., then moved to 2 p.m., and we were worried we'd be caught in the rain (in this case, it might have been a relief). When we got to the bus stop at Turrahus at 3 p.m., there still was no rain. It started as we were about half-way down the valley on the bus.

Another interesting Note: We started the day in the Rheinwald Valley, which is the source of the Hinterrhein River, and we joined the Rhine Gorge where the Anterior Rhine passes through, both of these rivers being the major headwaters of the Rhine River, joining in Reichenau.  

When we were in the area a year ago, we hiked up to some mountain lakes on the Splügen Pass side of the valley. It's from here that we could see right up the valley to the Safienberg Pass. We knew we wanted to come back to hike up that valley. 

A close-up look at Stutzalp and the Valley to the Safierberg Pass, as seen from the South side of the Rheinwald valley. We got a ride with the tourist bus from the village of Splügen up to the farm buildings at Alp Stuzt, and walked another two hours to the pass. (Almost 600m ascent)

For us it was a bit of a late start, waiting for the alpine taxi which left Splügen at 9:25 to take us up to Alp Stutz. We prefer an earlier start to our hikes, but we were happy for the service. And we were the only two passengers. 

Being as we were the only two passengers, I rode up front in the van and was able to take a few nice photos as we drove up on the narrow road. This is the village of Splügen from the "back side". 

A look down at Lake Sufers, a reservoir lake from which the Hinterrhein flows into the Roffla Gorge. 

The entrance to this valley is particularly stunning. Our hike started beyond the waterfalls, near the buildings upper left. 

On this map are four of the six alpine taxis offered in this area. We took advantage of two of the ones on this map. Next trip we will hike over the Valserberg Pass. The hike over the Safierberg Pass to Turrahus Gasthaus bus stop takes about 4 to 4.5 hours. (Note also that the region accessed by the uppermost bus was temporarily off-limits because some wolves killed some cows up there). 

Starting on our hike into the Stuztalp Valley just below the farm buildings. It is now 09:40

The farmhouse and barn at Alp Stuzt, virtually the only buildings in this valley. You can just see the Splügen pass on the right (Italy on the other side)

Hundreds of sheep were grazing on the steep pastures on the other side of the valley

Being watched again by cows blocking our trail. We had to do another detour around them!

Clouds blocked the sun on the stretch where we really wanted it, and it was cold

The uphill hike was rather monotonous

The peaks to the north were interesting. 

A look back down the valley as we approached the pass. There were only two other people hiking up the valley at the same time (you can see them in the photo), but they did not use the alpine taxi. They started in the village of Splügen and walked the entire way up.

It took us two hours to walk to the pass at Safierberg. This is, by the way, part of National Trail no.6: "Alpine Passes Trail", and one of the few sections we can actually do!

The climb was worth it for the view into the Safien Valley on the north side of the pass

Panorama view from Safierberg Pass. We had our picnic lunch up here. 

Trail heading down into the Safien Valley

I have no problems filling up my water bottle from mountain streams!

The poisonous monkshood was the dominant alpine flower this time. 

This is a side valley where cows were grazing, but there is no hiking trail there. 

We were pleasantly surprised to discover this beautiful waterfall as we got near valley bottom!

As we got further from the waterfall, the "source" of the waterfall looked more and more impressive

This is where we descended from the Safierberg Pass

A final look to the back of the Safien Valley. 

Passing more and more farms. This was a good idea: Bottled drinks keeping cool in the fountain, and a price list and cash box. 

Urs is a great supporter of farms offering cold drinks for sale

We got to the Turrahus Gasthaus shortly before 3 p.m. As the bus was leaving at 3:30, this was enough time for something cold to drink. We were lucky that we did not get the forecast rain during our hike. 

This information panel tells us that the Walser people crossed the Safierberg from the Rheinwald in approx. 1300, and the passage was one of the main trade routes from Chiavenna and Milano.

These funny goats with short legs were simply lying down in the road

Our 4.5-hour hike from Alp Stutz over Safierberg to Turrahus in the Safien Valley. 

The rest of the photos are from the bus ride down the Safien Valley, and the train ride through the Rhine Canyon (Ruinaulta) to Reichenau, where both rivers Posterior and Anterior Rhine meet, to form the Rhine River as we know it. The video of the bus ride is one I put together when we visited the valley in December 2015.

From the bus window, a look to the back of the Safien Valley as we pass the small church in Thalkirch

Amazing vertical cliffs on the East side of the Safien Valley. 

Some pretty impressive work going on on this mountain road.

Our approach to the village of Versam which is at the entrance of the valley. From there the road descends into the Rhine Canyon. The weather cleared up again.

VIDEO:

Post Bus Ride along the very narrow road up and down the Safien Valley

 in December 2015

             

A first glimpe of the Rhine Canyon as the bus takes us down to the train station

One of the largest landslides in Earth's history took place here, and the Rhine River carved this out over millions of years. 

Traveling through the Rhine Canyon by train. This is a stretch that is only accessible by train and boat, not even on foot. 

River rafting on the Rhine

The sign on the left shows the high-water mark of the Rhine River in 1927

The two headwaters of the Rhine River (Anterior and Posterior Rhine -- i.e. Vorderrhein and Hinterrhein) join here in the town of Reichenau, close to Chur

Location of the Safien Valley in Switzerland

On this map, the orange trails are the ones we did this year, and the mint green ones are the ones we did in September 2021

A Walk from Village to Village along the Hinterrhein River

Saturday July 23, 2022: DAY 3 of our five-day Vacation in Rheinwald, Graubünden

The day had been planned with a reservation on a different Alpine Taxi, one starting in the Ferrera Valley where we had been the first day, and going into the Valle di Lei (that valley which just touched onto the border of Switzerland at the old Avers Road -- photos are HERE), where there is a large dam which belongs to Switzerland even though the lake itself and the valley belong to Italy.

Unfortunately we woke up to heavy rain and thunderstorms (welcome in this heat but rather unpleasant for hiking) so we cancelled the bus and returned to bed. Later, when the rain had stopped, we figured why not simply start walking right from our building down the valley parallel to the Hinterrhein River? (The Hinterrhein River is one of the two major headwaters of the 1200-km Rhine River and has its source here). There was one more village we hadn't discovered yet, the next one over called Medels, so off we went. We continued on to Splügen, it took us just over two hours to get there. Timing was good, as there was a bus heading back up valley. Two hours isn't long enough for us to walk, so we stayed on the bus till the uppermost village (also called Hinterrhein) and from there we walked back to our accommodation. 

In total, it was another 13 km as well, and we only got lightly rained on twice. Originally we had thought to go to a restaurant for dinner, but we didn't feel like heading out again. The house we stayed at had its own shop on street level, and we found they were selling hand-made Capuns (a local specialty sort of like cabbage rolls) so we simply baked them up for dinner.

It was sufficient for this day, because the weather promised to be very good for the next day, and we had a 5-hour hike planned....

A look back at the village of Nufenen as we head East toward the next village: Medels, and ultimately on to Splügen, the main village in this valley. It's already 11:30 a.m., but we waited for a break in the rain. 

The first walk we did was 8 km from Nufenen to Splügen. Then we took the bus back but past Nufenen to Hinterrhein Village, further back in the valley. 

Sometimes we run across random sculptures made with the chainsaw that cut down the tree! We also got caught in a bit of a drizzle

Giving the cows a wide berth... there were a couple of babies in the pasture, and the cows watch us carefully!

A nice display of cow bells

Small old chapel in Medels

Village of Medels

Heading on toward Splügen

A selection of Walser-style buildings as we approach Splügen

Splügen is the main village in the Rheinwald Valley. We approached it from the West

Splügen is one of the oldest and most typical mountain pass villages in Canton Graubünden. 

Imagine the work it took to build this road back in the Middle Ages

I love fountains!

A little walk through Splügen admiring the beautiful buildings

Heading down to the main road now

A look at Splügen from the East side

The bridge across the Hinterrhein River, looking westward (up valley)

Main street in Splügen. It's now 2:15 p.m. and we are just in time for a bus which is heading toward the San Bernardino Tunnel. (Back the way we came)

Heading back past Medels on the bus

An 8-minute ride on the bus and we are in Hinterrhein Village, ready for a second hike along the Hinterrhein River back to Nufenen Village

This second walk was 5 kilometers, from Hinterrhein village back to Nufenen. 

A look up-valley to where the Hinterrhein (Posterior Rhine) has its source. The San Bernardino Pass is on the left. 

First a detour to the old bridge (built in 1692). From here we could walk up to the San Bernardino Pass, but we are walking along the "Rheinquellenweg", or "Rhine Source Trail"

Behind me is the village of Hinterrhein (same name as the river). We didn't walk through it this time as we had inspected it last year. (Those photos are HERE)

This is the "young" Hinterrhein River, one of the most important headwaters of the 1200-km long Rhine River. Its source is in the mountains at the back of this valley. 

There is a major highway through the Rheinwald Valley, providing access to Canton Tessin through the San Bernardino Tunnel. The noise of the traffic does not bother me. 

Suspension bridges are always great!

We discovered a great waterfall with a clear pool, and had a break here. We were also graced with a bit of sunshine at this point!

I had just finished dipping my feet in the cold mountain water... and my face apparently also!

VIDEO:

The Waterfall

Continuing down-river, we got caught in a burst of light rain for the second time this day. Good thing my sister gave me this plastic cover, which I always have along! (It does get hot though)

I said to Urs, "It would be nice to have a tree to stand under", and then I saw the goats taking cover here. Turns out these are the goats which pass by our accommodation twice each day! Our host told me this tree is very important for them.

An easy 5-km walk along the Hinterrhein River, a headwater to the major Rhine River. 

And here is the village of Nufenen... back "home" now

The "two" hikes we did formed a joint 13-km stretch between four of the five villages in the Rheinwald Valley. 

Back at the apartment, we purchased the Capuns out of the freezer in the inhouse shop, and baked them up in our oven. Not as good as the ones in the restaurant, because they were dry and we had no sauce. 

The 300-year-old former traveler's inn has been lovingly renovated by the Baschung Family into two rentable apartments and a B&B, plus a shop that sells local products. They live in it as well with their four boys.

In the shop you can buy all kinds of local meats, cheeses, eggs, sirups, pasta and more, including the capuns handmade by a local person

The entrance...

Upper floor, each boy has a room here, and we access our studio from here as well

Studio apartment which we have now rented twice. The only thing missing is a balcony, but there are plenty of places to sit outdoors. 

The walls are about two feet thick! Keeps it cool in summer...

Capuns are a local dish made of Spätzle dough mixed with dried meats, and rolled in Swiss Chard leaves. We baked up this local product instead of going to a restaurant to order them.