Splügen Pass to the Suretta Lakes and down to Splügen (Four-Day Trip to Rheinwald)

Thursday September 23, 2021 -- On our second day in the Rheinwald Valley, we took a bus up to the Splügen Pass (not very high at 2114m) because we wanted to look into Italy (not much to see there, although the bus continues on the Italian side all the way to Chiavenna) and then we walked partly back down the valley, before tackling a large ascent to two very pretty lakes called Surettaseen (Suretta Lakes).

Centuries ago, the people of this valley used to cross the Splügen and San Bernardino Passes with mule trains to trade their goods at southern markets. Even long before that, the Romans used these passages to reach Northern Europe. To make the trails easier for the animals, they were painstakingly "paved" with rocks. It is overwhelming to think how we now walk these trails as a pastime, where thousands of feet already walked here over 2000 years ago for much other purposes!....

On our way to the pass, we had a stopover in Splügen, which is the main village of the five villages in the Rheinwald Valley and one of the oldest in Canton Graubünden, so we did a quick early morning walk-through. The five-hour hike we did afterwards also ended in Splügen, so we had another look at it in the evening light, as well as enjoying a meal there of a local dish called Capuns, which are chard leaves wrapped around a filling of spätzli dough and various dried regional meats (including Landjäger!). Mmm!!

There was a cold wind blowing on our way down from the pass, so it was the first time I used my scarf and gloves! Once we started on the ascent, it got warm enough. Most impressive on this hike besides the landscape and the mule trails, of course, was the switchback road up to the pass... it never fails to amaze me how this country is full of winding and switchback roads in order to pass over these mountains!

(Photos from Day1 can be found HERE)

Early morning (8:20) look out the front window of foyer of the beautiful house we were staying in! (Unfortunately not the view out of our studio apartment).

Our accommodation for three nights (two small windows on the left toward the back!). A few hundred years ago, this used to be the stopping place for the mule trains on their way over the Splügen and San Bernardino Passes.

Early morning look at the little village of Nufenen as we wait for the bus along the highway.

This highway passes through the Rheinwald Valley, but one is hardly aware of it. It heads through the San Bernardino Tunnel just a couple of kilometers from here. Before the construction of the tunnel and the highway, this valley was busy with alpine trading. But since then it reverted to agriculture. The Hinterrhein has its source in the mountains at the back.

An 8-minute bus ride takes us to Splügen, which is the main village in the valley, and where we'd originally looked for accommodation, but it was all booked out! This village is considered of "National importance" in Switzerland, and won the Wakker Prize in 1995 for outstanding village planning.

We had a 35-minute stopover in Splügen and that was plenty of time to look through the entire village (excepting a visit to the church). Here are a few impressions of the village of Splügen in the early morning (10 a.m.)

We discovered the Weiss Kreuz Hotel, which also used to be a "Sumpter" house, i.e. a stopping and resting place for the mule trains on their way over the Splügen Pass

The luxury hotel used to be an inn for the traders and their mule trains passing over the Splügen Pass centuries ago

View of the church in Splügen as seen through the window of the foyer in the "Hotel Weiss Kreuz"

From Splügen it takes 25 minutes by bus to reach the Italian border on the Splügen Pass. This switchback road to the pass is quite amazing!

The Berghaus Splügenpass was built in the early 19th Century when still about 400-500 animals and coaches crossed the Splügen Pass, which at the time was the most-crossed passage in Canton Graubünden.

Here we are at the Splügen Pass, looking South into the Italian countryside (not a lot to see here!) as our Italian Bus continues on to Chiavenna.

The Splügen Pass, at barely 2100m above sea level and quite wide and low, was the most traveled mountain pass in Canton Graubünden until the tunnels were built under the San Bernardino and Gotthard Passes.

From the Splügen Pass, we walked North along the old mule trail for 3 km (45 minutes) and then detoured to the Suretta Lakes. This was a long, almost 2-hour climb, but the pain of the ascent is forgotten as soon as we reach the highest point! The final 90-minute descent to Splügen was through the larch forest. Pleasant, but not a lot to see there.

Heading North down the valley along the old mule trail. This is actually part of the official trail called "Via Spluga".

A closer look at the fabulous road built about 2000 years ago to cross the Splügen Pass. Until the construction of the paved roads and tunnels, this was an important trade route.

A look at the new paved road up to the Splügen Pass

After 3 km, we crossed the river and headed up to the Suretta Lakes, an approx. 2-hour ascent!

A good look at the Splügen Pass behind us, from where we descended!

As we ascend more and more, a beautiful snow-covered peak appears. This is called Pizzo Tambo and the Italian-Swiss border runs right across the top. It is 3270m high and there is a bit of remaining glacier at its base (just visible here)

A closer look at the new Splügen pass road which we ascended by bus, and the old mule trail which we decended on foot, more to the left.

On the way up to the Suretta Lakes

Panorama View from Mt. Tomba on the left, and into the Rheinwald Valley below (with the village of Splügen)

As we go higher, more of the Rheinwald Valley opens up until we can finally see the village of Nufenen, which is our base for these four days.

Another 40 minutes to go to the lakes, and then we have to return here for the descent to Splügen, which takes another 90 minutes!

So we finally reached the first lake! Pizzo Tambo in the background, and you can see the Tambo Glacier now. Interesting note: People have taken thousands of photos of a similar lake with the Matterhorn in the background, (near Zermatt in Canton Valais), but this is just as beautiful, and here there are NO other people!

Here at the second and higher lake is where we had our picnic lunch

Before we start back down to Splügen, we tried out some self-timed photos!

It got cold up here at the Suretta Lakes, because exactly here there was some cloud cover. Even though this is quite a barren landscape, it is our favourite.

Heading back down from the Suretta Lakes.

This is our final view into the Rheinwald Valley before we reach the larch forests (we are a bit too early in the season for the beautiful yellow that the trees will soon be sporting). From here the final 90-minute descent was on an easy zigzagging trail through the forest. Urs found it monotonous, but I found it refreshing.

First view of the village of Splügen as we reach the valley bottom.

The village church (Protestant) in Splügen

This beautiful building which used to be the customs house, now is the location of the Cantonal Police.

Crossing the bridge over the Hinterrhein, into the main part of Splügen.

Because we hadn't seen the church earlier in the day, we made a quick detour up the hill. The churches here in Graubünden are primarily protestant, and feature lots of carved wood inside.

We found a little restaurant in a side street where we enjoyed a local specialty called "Capuns", which are mangold leaves (Swiss Chard) rolled around a filling of Spätzli dough and various local dried meats.