The Old Avers Road from Cresta to Innerferrera (Graubünden)

July 21 to 25, 2022: Five-Day vacation in Canton Graubünden (Rheinwald)

In September of last year we spent four days in a region we had bever been before: Rheinwald in Canton Graubünden, near the San Bernardino and Splügen Passes and the Italian border and part of the Beverin Nature Park. It is here that the Posterior Rhine (Hinterrhein) -- one of the two main sources of the Rhine River -- has its origin. We enjoyed our time there so much, especially as we had a really great accommodation in a very old but wonderfully renovated former traveler's inn, and we made it our plan to return. (Links to photos from the previous vacation can be found HERE bottom of the page).

The region offers alpine taxi service to various alpine pastures, saving us 600m of ascent each time. These were not available last September, so we chose to return in July when they were available, to access other parts of the area that we otherwise would not. Those taxis were the focus of this vacation.

We don't generally book accommodation far in advance, as we are then committed regardless of weather, but the studio apartment which we had rented last time had availability right during our vacation period, so we took the risk. It paid off because we had acceptable weather for five days of hiking, even with the current heat wave.

++++++++++++++++++

DAY 1 of 5, Thursday July 21 -- Old Avers Road

Travel day to Rheinwald, we could not get here early enough for the one taxi service which runs on Thursday (it turns out that the whole region accessed by this particular bus has been closed due to a pack of wolves called the Beverinrudel having killed some cows up there), so we returned to the Ferrera Valley and followed the Old Avers Road (built in 1895) or "Walserweg" Trail for 12 kilometers from Cresta to Innerferrera (at first it looked like we'd have to hike in fog or low clouds, but the day cleared up). It was a relatively short hike for us, 3.5 hours, following the Averser Rhine / Ferrera River. But after a 4-hour trip to get here, we were glad to head out to our accommodation in the quaint town of Nufenen, one of five villages in the Rheinwald Valley.

The highlight of this day was the "Punt di Val di Lei" bridge along the Old Avers Road which touches on a very short piece of the Italian border. As you stand on the bridge, you look up the Lei Valley which belongs to Italy, and the rest of the region all belongs to Switzerland. 

Heading up the Avers Valley, we were concerned about the weather and large amount of low cloud. This is what the village of Avers-Cresta (where we planned to start our hike) looked like at 09:45 as we headed up the valley by bus. I won't walk in the fog, so we simply rode the bus another 15 minutes up valley to the final stop at Juf, where the clouds were just lifting. We stayed on the bus for its trip back down the valley. 

By the time the bus returned to Cresta (10:10), the clouds were lifting here as well, so we started on our hike down-valley as planned

A little look at some of the houses in Avers-Cresta before starting on our hike along the Old Avers Road. (We chose to start here because last September we had walked along the Old Avers Road from Juf at the back of the valley, deviating up the mountain from here).  

From Cresta we followed the Old Avers Road (Trail no. 757) / Walserweg (Trail no.35) for 12 km to Innerferrera. 

Interesting information about the Old Avers Road (built in 1895). We walked it in the down-valley direction, having done two sections Juf-Cresta and Ausserferrera-RofflaGorge in September 2021. We actually wanted to walk the missing section from Cresta to Ausserferrera, but it was too long a stretch (5.5 hours)

The 12-km stretch along the Walserweg or Old Avers Road, from Cresta to Innerferrera, with the interesting spot along the Bridge at the Lei Valley, where we looked "into Italy"

A look down into the gorge and the Old Avers Road above, where we started on our walk. 

Walking along the Old Avers Road, built in 1895

Bridge crossing the Avers Rhine River

This rickety bridge was not actually part of the trail

On the opposite side of the gorge, a magnificent cement arch bridge forms part of the new road which leads to the back of the valley

This is the Lezi Bridge, part of the new road up the valley spanning the gorge. Since learning about the Swiss Civil Engineer Robert Maillart who pioneered the cement arch bridge, we love to admire them all over the place!

A look up the gorge from the Lezi Bridge. Our trail was mostly along the left side of the river, or the right side of this photo. 

A long downhill section through the forest and we get to the village of Cröt. Last year we took a mountain trail from Cresta and descended here at Cröt from the mountain on the right. Those photos are HERE. 

Village of Cröt

An interesting section as we continue to follow the river down-valley

The next village down-valley: Campsut

The post bus making another run up the valley to Juf, the final hamlet at the back of the valley and the highest-altitude year-round inhabited village in Europe

Another look up the valley as we head down

This is the new highway bridge. Beneath it along the old road is a bridge called "Punt di Val di Lei". The valley behind it belongs to Italy, but all the rest to Switzerland

Valle di Lei bridge on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Renovated in 2007.

Looking up the Valle di Lei into Italy. Only this valley belongs to Italy. We are still on the Swiss side. 

Fascinating that we are walking on a trail in Switzerland, and at this one single point we can look up into the Valle di Lei, which belongs to Italy. 

Valle di Lei bridge, built in 1895, renovated 2007

The cement bridge is a stunning construction

More bridges! At this point the river is now called Ferrera

A glimpse of the village of Innerferrera through the trees

We left the Walserweg trail near Innerferrera to cross this suspension bridge and approach Innerferrera from the right side of the river

Suspension bridges are great!

High above the Ferrera River

From Innerferrera it would have been another two hours to walk to Ausserferrera (the next town down-river) which was too much for us, so we stopped here to see if they had.... what else, ice cream. 

Ice cream sundaes at Hotel Alpenrose in Innerferrera. Urs was more than happy to finish mine as well. 

The bus can barely squeeze between the houses in the main square in Innerferrera

In September 2021 we did hike from Innerferrera to Ausserferrera but the valley bottom (the Old Avers Road) was in full shadow of the mountains already, so we took a higher route. At Ausserferrera we joined the Walserweg again down to the Roffla Gorge. Those photos are HERE

We took the bus down-valley to the Roffla Gorge, and the connecting bus up the Rheinwald Valley to our rented studio apartment in Nufenen. The black bus icons on this map are the alpine taxis which we want to try on this vacation (we managed three of them, it cost 10 Fr. for each ride). 

The village of Nufenen, where we stayed for four nights (in September 2021 we also stayed here for three nights). 

We stayed for four nights in a studio apartment in this 300-year-old renovated traveler's inn

Rheinwald Region in Switzerland

Walk down the Ferrera Valley to the Rofla Gorge (Four-Day Trip to Rheinwald)

Finally we had some summer in September! And also finally an actual vacation week that we could use for another longer hiking trip! On the spur of the moment we decided on four days in Canton Graubünden (that's Urs' favourite) in an area we've never been before: Rheinwald, which is where the mighty Rhine River has its second official source, namely the Hinterrhein, or Posterior Rhine. (Just the week before we had been in the Surselva where the other source is: The Vorderrhein or Anterior Rhine). This beautiful valley near the San Bernardino Pass, (which quickly became one of our favourites), is directly North of the border with Italy. In fact, this valley is in the very Southern part of one of Switzerland's Nature Parks: Park Beverin. 

We also lucked out to find an inexpensive rental studio in a beautifully-renovated 300-year old "sumpter house" (such houses were used to accommodate mule trains crossing the alpine passes in the middle ages). The family who owns it also runs a farm with 50 goats and three cows in this little village of Nufenen (ca. 170 residents), one of five villages in the Rheinwald Valley, and soon also our favourite. 

DAY 1 of 4: Val Ferrera and the Rofla Gorge

When we spend a night away, we always plan a hike on the way to our accommodation. In this case, Urs had heard about a lesser-known gorge called the Rofla Gorge, which is located where the Avers Rhine from the Ferrera Valley meets the Hinterrhein from Rheinwald. We made this the goal of our first day hike, starting about 10 kilometers up the Ferrera Valley in a village called Innerferrera. 

Between the villages Innerferrera and Ausserferrera, the valley trail (Walserweg) follows mostly the main road, and it also looked to have a lot of shade because this is a narrow valley, so we opted to walk the higher mountain trail between those two villages, in the hope of having a view. Unfortunately, there were too many trees and also still too much morning shade, so this section was rather boring and cold, and the descent was tough. 

After descending to Ausserferrera and crossing the Ferrera Rhine River, we continued through the ravine along the river (also lots of afternoon shade now, but still some sunshine) until we got to the Rofla Gorge, which turned out to be the highlight of the day: There is a restaurant here and the property is privately-owned. The original owner hand-blasted a gallery trail through the gorge during the winters between 1907 and 1914, and this trail is available to the public for a small fee. It was eerie and beautiful here in the gorge, and the gallery even passes under the waterfall created by the Rhine River. To access the trail, you have to enter the restaurant, pay the fee, and exit through an unobtrusive side door. It's a real hidden gem!

And lastly, after a 30-minute bus ride, we arrived in Nufenen, and after depositing our small packs in the beautiful studio apartment, we did a little round-tour of the village of Nufenen in the late afternoon sunshine...

The start of our hike in Innerferrera in the Ferrera Valley

In Canton Graubünden, the main religion is "Evangelical/Reformed" and the churches are less ornate than the Catholic ones, much more simple and with lots of wood. Smells beautifully of pine instead of incense. On the other hand, the schools (lower left) are painted with ornate facades! Excavations showed there used to be an older church here. The beautiful bell on display was cast in 1522, probably at the same time as the original church was built. (Before the Reformation)

Buses have to pass through narrow spaces between the buildings!

A small tour of the village of Innerferrera before we head uphill on the high trail down the valley

A view down onto the village of Innerferrera

After rounding this corner, we came into the shady side of the mountain, and then it got cold, with a cold wind as well!

The view down the Ferrera Valley. Below on the left is a lake, but we were not able to see it (too many trees). 

In this clearing where we had our picnic lunch, there were two houses in sunny locations. We spoke with the owner of one of them, a mountain farmer who was doing the winter preparations and a bit of hunting. 

On our way down along a steep and rough trail. This is one very big boulder!

A view through the trees of the village of Ausserferrera below. From there we continued down the valley along the river

A quick detour to the bridge over the river (here it's called the Ferrera Rhine, a feeder of the Hinterrhein which exits the Rofla Gorge further down the valley) before heading through Ausserferrera

Goats roaming free through the forest and watching us carefully....

Heading through the village of Aussserferrera before continuing along the river down the valley

Flowers on the houses make all the difference. 

The fountains also look prettier with flowers!

A look back as we leave Ausserferrera. We walked along the mountainside at the level of the power lines

Also a look back up the Ferrera Valley

Crossing the Ferrera Rhine River to continue down-valley on the left side of the river (This is looking up-valley)

The first part of this trail was difficult to walk as it was all roots and slippery from moisture. It took us longer than expected and we were in a hurry. 

A look to the other side to the road that goes up the Ferrera Valley

Some impressions of the first part of the trail along the river. This trail by the way is called the "Walserweg"

At one point we actually were down at river level. Lots of shade here now at 3 p.m.!

Out of the Ferrera Valley now and headed toward the Rofla Gorge, we had more sunshine here. 

We were actually surprised that there was sunshine here at the Rofla Gorge, but the afternoon sun was shining exactly down the gorge where the Hinterrhein River flows. 

We paid our 4 CHF and headed through the restaurant side door to access the gorge trail. A plaque commemorates the owner of the restaurant who hand-blasted the trail in the winters of 1907 to 1914.

The gorge and cliff trail were fascinating, and definitely worth the 4 CHF entry fee!

Heading toward the waterfall where the Posterior Rhine plunges into the gorge. The trail is built to pass under the waterfall!

VIDEO:

Fascinating Rofla Gorge (my own YouTube Video)

The trail to the waterfall was "hand-carved" (holes for dynamite drilled by hand)

by Christian Pitschen-Melchior in the winters of 1907 to 1914

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Heading back to the restaurant and to catch the 4 p.m. bus to our accommodations in the next valley over. 

A four-hour and 12-km hike along the Ferrera Valley from Innerferrera to the Rofla Gorge. Then a 30-minute bus ride up the Rheinwald Valley to Nufenen, where we spent three nights in a 300-year old house.... 

A view of the village of Nufenen from the bus stop along the highway. There are about 170 people living in this village. Lots of cows and chickens walking the village main road... 

This road is called "Italienische Strasse", or Italian Road, and a short walk past the church is our accommodation. 

The beautifully-renovated 300-year-old Sumpter House which has its own little farm shop as well!

The owners of the house offer a studio to rent (which we did), a larger apartment, and several single B&B rooms. 

Some impressions of the village of Nufenen on our evening walk. 

A look down onto the village of Nufenen from higher up. 

And just steps away from our accommodation is the local dairy, which offers plenty of cheese and joghurt for three days worth of breakfasts and picnics!!!!

Here are a couple of photos of the inside of the beautiful house: Each of the two stories had a large foyer with flag-stone floors and rooms leading off it on either side: