The Highest Village in Europe with Permanent Residents: Juf

Friday September 24, 2021 -- Day 3 of our 4-day trip to the Swiss Nature Park Beverin.

There is a village in Switzerland at the very South end of the Beverin Nature Park called Juf (pronounced "Youff"); at 2125 meters above sea level it is the highest village in Europe which is permanently lived in year-round (about 30 people from 6 families) and also one of the coldest regions in Switzerland. It was always a goal of ours to visit this village, and as it is not that far from our accommodation in Nufenen in the Rheinwald Valley, it was an ideal time to do this trip.

Juf is at the very back of a valley which is basically a continuation of the Ferrera and Avers Valleys which we had visited two days earlier. So in effect, we returned to the same area. The river here is called the Jufer Rhein, and after joining with a series of other rivers, eventually joins the Hinterrhein at the Rofla Gorge (Those photos are HERE).

We got to the village shortly before 10 a.m. and took our time with a second breakfast at one of the TWO hotels located at the back of this remote valley (!!!) before finally heading out at 10:45. The first half of our hike on this fantastic day was along the river but all in sunshine this time! The valley is wide up here, and we were surprised that cattle grazing was in full force, whereas at similar altitudes in other parts of the Alps, the cows have already returned to the "valley bottoms".

About half-way down the valley, the trail descends into ravine-like terrain, and we wanted to continue enjoying the sunshine, so we switched to a high trail, which meant more ascent but also more spectacular views! Along this trail we encountered an aesculapian snake (these are big, non-venomous snakes, and it disappeared faster than I could ready my camera!) and some more mean-looking cows who forced us to do a 15-minute detour. We timed our excursion perfectly again, although we did have to move fast coming down the mountain to reach the tiny hamlet of Cröt about 10 minutes before the bus descended from Juf.

This was early enough in the day that we still had time for a tour of the westernmost village in the Rheinwald Valley, the village of Hinterrhein (same name as the river) right before the San Bernardino Pass (and tunnel). Hinterrhein is the oldest documented Walser settlement in Canton Graubünden, with records dating to at least the 13th Century. Each house had a name, and we watched the "cows come home" before heading on the four-minute bus ride back to our accommodation in Nufenen, one village over, for our final night in "the castle"....

Heading up the Ferrera Valley by bus we reach the village of Innerferrera, which is where we started our hike two days earlier (Photos are HERE).

At the Gasthaus Alpenrose is where we had coffee and cake before heading out on our hike

Enjoying the morning sunshine at the Gasthaus Alpenrose while waiting for our coffee

This house has vacation apartments and a small shop on the ground level!

A view to the very back of the valley past Juf

Having just crossed the Jufer Rhine, we are on our way North down the valley.

The village of Juf: At 2125 meters above sea level, this is the highest village in Europe with permanent (year-round) residents, about 30 people from six families. There are two "Gasthaus" and several vacation apartments for rent as well.

Our hike was a little over four hours. Mostly it was easy downhill walking except where we took the high trail before descending to Cröt. There is a small piece of Italy which juts into Switzerland here. Interesting is that the Lago di Lei is in Italy, but its dam beloongs to Switzerland

Heading down the beautiful Juf / Avers Valley, high above the tree-line. The weather was sunny and relatively mild.

The river here is called the Jufer Rhine. Just below here, the river is joined by the Bergalgabach from the left to create the Avers Rhine, which continues nortward to become the Ferrera Rhine.

Side valley called Bergalga. There were marmots here, but too far to photograph well.

There were still lots of cows out in the pastures up here.

Heading down the valley. Eventually, we would walk up to the point with the arrow, before heading down on the other side.

Behind me on the right is small bunch of cows. There were only about ten meters to cross along the road where they were standing (on a bridge), but there were babies and the cows glared at us, so we returned to here and descended to the road, and then climbed the hill again on the far side of the bridge.

A detour around the cows and another 30 minutes of walking parallel to the road, we descend to this little community called Pürt, where there was a little self-serve shop in that barn at the far end.

Looking down at Pürt.

In the self-serve shop in the barn, I bought some home-made chocolate spread (we still had plenty of cheese from the dairy in Nufenen where were spending three nights).

The trail switched to below the road. This is looking up-valley again.

Ahead of us is the little church at Cresta. This is a dominant landmark here. We stopped for our picnic lunch and to rest our feet in the cemetery behind that wall. It was almost too hot there.

We had seen advertisements that the church was getting a new organ, and happened to watch the fellow who was installing it.

Heading through the village of Cresta

This house looks like it is about to break apart!

We decided that we would ascend on the high trail instead of going down into the shady ravine

Heading uphill along the high trail far above the Avers Rhine River

We're glad we chose the high trail instead of descending into the canyon (lots of shade there). This view up the valley where we had descended from made it worth the effort.

A rather beautiful farm house way up here!

Fantastic panorama view of the Avers/Juf Valley on the left, and the Madrisch Valley on the right. Down below, where the two valleys meet, is where we are going to catch the bus.

A look up the Madrisch Valley. Over those hills on the right is Italy. And straight down below is the village of Cröt, where we want to catch the bus.

Contemplating our descent. We had to move fast to make sure we caught the 15:30 bus. It took us 35 minutes to descend.

Down below is the village of Cröt. The bus descends from the left, as does the alternate trail we could have taken.

We actually arrived with 10 minutes to spare!

Houses in Cröt

How our hike looks on Google Satellite Maps

It was only an hour bus ride when we caught the 15:30 bus, to get to Hinterrhein via the Rofla Gorge. Hinterrhein is the last village in the western part of the Rheinwald Valley, before the road crosses the San Bernardino Pass. There is a section of Italy which juts into this part of Switzerland.

We had an hour in the village of Hinterrhein to look at the pretty houses, before catching a bus back to Nufenen.

Main square in Hinterrhein

The 30-km speed zone here was a laugh!

Church bell-tower

Each house has a name

This is a house with the name "Kabinet"!

This is a look westward at the Hinterrhein River. Its source is in the mountains at the back. The road to the San Bernardino Pass is just on the left, as well as the newer base tunnel.

We watched the cows coming up from the meadows to their barns (It's too cold to leave them out in the fields overnight).

VIDEO:

Cows are returning from pasture on the other side of the highway. They belong to two families and have to be sorted as they go in two different directions. The cows look confused!