Parc Ela: On the Via Bernina/Albula Trail from the Albula Pass to Spinas

We had a very successful 5-day trip to Canton Graubünden/Grisons (Urs likes to go there because it's as close to remote wilderness as we can get here in Switzerland), with perfect hiking weather and successfully chosen trails. Mostly we were able to avoid the heat again, and we were lucky to see many marmots and especially ibex.

Originally we had booked three nights (Monday to Thursday) in Ardez in the lower Engadine, but because the weather on Sunday was also good, we did a last-minute booking in St.Moritz (Upper Engadine) so we could do two hikes in that area.

This description is for the first hike, on the way to St.Moritz. (Known as the playground for the wealthy).

Sunday August 21, 2022 -- A year ago we came to the area of Preda-Bergün with the express purpose of walking Stage 5 (Preda to Spinas) of the trail called Via Albula/Bernina (Regional Trail no.33) which is located in the eastern section of Switzerland's largest nature park (Park Ela). At that time the weather turned bad, so we walked only the section from Preda to the lovely Lake Palpuegna (those photos HERE).

So instead of starting at Preda this time, we took the Alpine Bus up the narrow pass road to the Albula Pass and started from there (less ascent that way as well). The Albula Pass, which has been in use as a trade route since the Middle Ages, was a strategic military defense point during WWII, and the tank defense lines made of natural rock were particularly interesting. Additional highlights were the lovely Crap Alv Lakes, the spectacular view up and down the Val Bever as we crossed the pass at the Fuorcla Crap Alv, and best of all the unexpected sighting of five ibex on the steep cliffs not 20 meters from us as we descended into the valley. 

We should have ended the hike in Spinas, but a stop for refreshments meant we just missed a train, (next one in two hours) so we walked the additional 60 minutes out of the valley to Bever, which was anticlimactic. After an interesting bus ride through Samedan and St.Moritz, we arrived at our lovely hotel, an original Engadine House built in 1927, a real villa with a posh library and two dining halls. And no wonder our room was well-priced.... we discovered this when they led us through a narrow back hallway to the basement to what were surely the former servants' quarters! But never mind the scuffed furniture, it was a great room and we slept well....

Approaching the village of Bergün in the heart of Parc Ela. From here the Rhätian Railway train winds its way up to Preda (where it enters the tunnel beneath the Albula Pass) and crosses the valley four times over some very nice viaducts. 

A look back at Bergün as we head up the Albula Valley by train

I'm not sure, but I think it's up ahead somewhere where we crossed the pass into the Bever Valley.

At Preda, we boarded the Alpine Taxi to go to the Albula Pass. It cost 15 CHF for the ride. The road is narrow up to the pass, and not many cars travel it. 

Passing Lake Palpuegna, which is where we walked to a year earlier. There is much less water this time, due to the heat

A look down the Albula Valley past Lake Palpuegna. The large mountain on the right is Piz Ela, which gives its name to the nature park. 

The mountains to the East of the Albula Pass

It was VERY cold up at the Albula Pass, although really only 2315m above sea level

In 1548 the French set up a postal route over the Albula Pass to Venice. In 1866, a 4.2-meter wide road was built. In 1903, the Albula Tunnel was opened for railway travel. A new tunnel is currently being built, expected to be completed in 2024. 

Parc Ela, the largest nature park in Switzerland

Our 4.5-hour hike starting at the Albula Pass included one hour from Spinas to Bever, which wasn't really necessary as it was mainly on a dirt road and rather tiring. The rest of the hike was quite exciting

Heading north away from the Albula Pass

The mountains are stunning

We didn't have to worry about being too hot up here, it was actually pretty cold!

Military fortifications here at the Albula Pass

The Albula Pass was a strategic defense point during WWII

These vertically-set rocks apparently made good tank traps

We love the marmots!

Here as we arrive at the road is actually another bus stop where most people start their hike up to the lakes and to the pass called Fuorcla Crap Alv ("Crap" means "Rock" in Romantsch)

As we start the ascent to the lakes, a look down at the narrow Albula Pass road and the beautiful Albula Valley, with Mt. Ela as the dominant mountain. This is all the region of Parc Ela nature park. We are now directly above the Preda-Spinas railway tunnel. 

VIDEO:

Twinkling Sunlight on the first lake we came to.

The second lake of the two Crap Alv lakes. Our trail continues up the hill behind me to the right of the large "boulder"

The colours were pretty here!

The signs here seem to generally indicate 25-30% less than the time it takes to walk! For sure we had 40 minutes to the Fuorcla, not 30

Looking back down at the lake

Far behind me you can see the Albula Pass

A close-up view of the hotel at the Albula Pass

Approaching the Crap Alv pass into the Val Bever

The first magnificent view into the Bever Valley. 

And this view is down the Bever Valley, all the way to the town of Bever where we walked to.

Starting on the steep, 430-m descent to the Beverin River below

The valley is very long and was popular with mountain bikers. 

Down below on that section is where we "ran into" the ibex!

The trail makes a turn up ahead, and this was where we saw the ibex

VIDEO:

We spotted five ibex (female and young ones) on a grassy section of the cliff. They were about 20 meters away and weren't bothered by the hikers on the path.

One of five ibex relaxing on the cliff

The one the right is most likely an older female?. She has longer horns. Grown males stay in separate herds. This would be females and young ones. 

These are probably young ones!

Close-up photos of the young ibex

Keeping a close eye on us. The one on the left is older, because the horns are longer. The horns look like this might be a young male, but usually this kind of group would be females and young ibex. 

One final look at the ibex on the section of cliff near the trail. 

Final stretch to the valley bottom

So glad to finally be on level ground!

Time for a coffee break and to cool off my feet in the glacier water of the Beverin River

VIDEO:

The Beverin River. I never get tired of this sound. 

Another look up-river as we head down-river to Spinas

At Spinas, the train exits the tunnel which connects with Preda on the other side of the Albula Pass. We chose to walk the additional one hour to Bever along the Via Albula/Bernina Trail

Refreshments at the restaurant at Spinas (one of only three buildings here, and a train station!)

A look back at the popular restaurant in Spinas, and the mountain range we crossed

Heading down the final section of the Val Bever to the town of Bever

A final look up the Val Bever. Here the Beverin River enters the Inn River (also called "En"). The Engadine Region gets its name from the En River, which has its source West of St.Moritz.

Our 4.5-hour and 15-km hike as seen on Google Satellite Maps

From Bever we took a bus via Samedan to a part of St.Moritz called Somplaz, where we had reserved a hotel room for the night for 130 CHF including breaksfast. (Shared bathroom). It turned out to be a very good night there, even though the furniture was shabby and we probably were in the former servants' quarters!

From Bever we rode a bus to St.Moritz. I don't know which peaks those are, but they must be part of the Bernina Massif. And the valley is probably the Rosegg Valley, which we walked up in 2014. 

Passing through Samedan, a town worth having a look at some day. 

Passing through an outskirt of St.Moritz called Celerina. That church has some renown because of its missing tower roof. 

This is a school-house! (In St.Moritz)

From the bus we had to walk another 13 minutes through the forest to get to our hotel. This view is South to a lake called Champfèr.

The Hotel Chesa Spuondas was a pleasant surprise, an Engadine house built in 1927 and tucked away in the forest. Very peaceful!

Some features of the old house

Our room in the "basement" (one level below entry) was accessed through a narrow back hallway, and must have originally been part of the servants' quarters. We shared a bathroom but had our own sink. The view was pretty nice too. We had a good night here, and at 130 CHF a very reasonable price for St.Moritz!

The view out of our hotel window with the evening sun on the mountains 

Other hikes we have done in the area

Where the region of St. Moritz is, in the Upper Engadine