A Sighting of Ibex in Val Languard near the Bernina Valley

(Photos of the previous day's hike on our way to St. Moritz can be viewed HERE)

Monday August 22, 2022 -- We spent a restful night in a lovely hotel in St.Moritz, a historical Engadine Villa built in 1927 and decorated in Art Nouveau Style, in what we think might have been the original servants' quarters. But the price was reasonable and we made this last-minute decision to overnight in St.Moritz so we could have an early start for our excursion for the day: Alp Languard near Pontresina, a 25-minute bus ride and 15-minute chairlift ride to the start of our hike. Our goal was to cross the Fuorcla Pischa pass into the Fain and Bernina Valleys, through a region where a colony of ibex are known to roam.

It was another fantastic day, and we could not have had better weather for another 4.5-hour hike in the magnificent Bernina region. We anticipated clear views of the Bernina Massif (Piz Bernina at 4049m is the highest peak in Canton Graubünden/Grisons) and were not disappointed. We also spied the colony of ibex high on a mountain crest, which we might just have missed had we not been walking in that direction. (We had been told that the ibex are not shy, and we might even encounter them lying across the trail, but this was not the case, unfortunately). 

We made a detour off the regular trail to a small mountain restaurant called Chamanna Paradis, a good decision because from there we looked directly onto the Bernina Massif with its snow-covered peaks and several magnificent glaciers. We were also the first to arrive in what turned out to be a popular loop tour undertaken by very many people that morning, so we had our refreshments and were on our way before the crowds came. For the rest of our chosen trail past Lake Languard and over the volcano-like landscape high above the tree line and the long descent into the stunning valley, we were mostly alone, with only a few people doing the trail in the opposite direction.

The photos are stunning, and this was our favourite hike of the five days we were in the Engadine. 

A great morning start at our hotel in St.Moritz, with a view of Lake Champfèr and clear skies with good visibility

We very much enjoyed our one-night stay at Hotel Chesa Spuondas. The breakfast buffet was marvelous

First time in St.Moritz.... even though we didn't get to the iconic parts of the city

Heading by bus to Pontresina (to the right off the photo). This is a view to Samedan and the Bever Valley which we walked down the day before, having crossed (I believe) at the saddle top left (from the Albula Pass to the North)

San Gian Church in Celerina is the emblem of the entire St.Moritz-Pontresina region, visible from all sides as it stands alone on an empty plain. The current structure was built in 1478 on the foundations of a much older church (late Middle Ages). The roof of the tower was damaged by lightning in 1682.

Shortly before arriving in Pontresina, we got a good look up the Roseg Valley to the Roseg Glacier, below which we spent a night in a hostel in 2014 on a 2-day trip up the valley. 

The large bus navigates the narrow streets of Pontresina toward the Alp Languard chair lift

Another peaceful 15-minute chairlift ride up the mountain with views of the Bernina massif saves us 500m of ascent once again (to 2320 m above sea level).

Our hike started here at Alp Languard. Behind Urs is the city of St.Moritz, and to the right are Samedan and Pontresina, both larger towns. This here is known as the Ibex Paradise

An interesting close-up of Piz Corvatsch (peak on the left, 3433m) and the summit station of the Corvatsch Cable-way at the back of the Roseg Valley. They seem to have covered parts of the Corvatsch Glacier with fabric in the hopes of preventing too rapid melting. 

Taking into consideration that we had to be careful on parts of the steep descent, this was closer to a 4.5- or 5-hour hike. The regular trail goes up the middle of Val Languard following the river, but we detoured via the Paradis Cabin for a fabulous view of the Bernina Massif and the Morteratsch Glacier. 

The regular trail goes up the Languard Valley parallel to the river. We took a detour via Chamanna Paradis for a fantastic view of the Bernina Massif. The rocky peak behind the cabin is called Piz Albris and that's where the ibex usually hang out

Some pretty birds we saw along the way (Northern Wheatears and Black Redstart -- "Steinschmätzer und Hausrotschwanz")

From here on the ridge we can see below into the Bernina Valley and onto the Bernina Massif and the beautiful Morteratsch Glacier

A close-up view of the Morteratsch Glacier an the Bernina Massif. The main peak, Piz Bernina, is on the right

Piz Bernina is the highest mountain in Canton Graubünden/Grisons, just over 4000m

This is Chamanna Paradis, small and unassuming, but they offered a very large variety of refreshments and other food! We were the first to arrive this morning. 

Cake and refreshments as more people arrived. By the time we were done, it was getting to be a regular thoroughfare. (Most hikers were doing a loop tour up here). The lady who runs this mini-restaurant said that sometimes at night, the ibex come right down here, but at this point it was too hot for them. 

Continuing from the Chamanna Paradis (upper left) up-valley to Lake Languard

From Lake Languard we had to climb up the hillside on the left. 

Lake Languard is at about 2600m above sea level. From here it's about another 3 hours to the train station at Bernina Suot, down in the Bernina Valley

Hiking up the hill above Lake Languard

A rescue helicopter had landed near the Chamanna Paradis. We had passed some hikers going up to the cabin, and one of them looked poorly. He had low blood sugar and we were able to help him with sugar packets. We hope it wasn't him who then needed medical attention. 

A look down to Chamanna Paradis and St.Moritz below, as we arrive at the next upper part of the Languard Valley

From this upper plain it was a relatively easy and only slightly uphill hike to the pass at Fuorcla Pischa

Because we were hiking to the pass from this side, we could see the crest really well ahead of us, and Urs spied a bunch of spikes along the crest. With the binoculars and the zoom lens, we could see these were about 10 ibex with massive horns! All males of advanced age.

It is hard to believe that these animals can carry such large horns! A small distance from this herd, we then saw a small female come over the ridge. Usually males and females are in separate herds. 

Val Languard

Just a short distance now toward Fuorcla Pischa, where we will cross into the Bernina Valley

Urs looking for more ibex on Piz Albris

Here we are at the highest point of our hike, almost 2900 meters, and it was quite warm here! The landscape is barren and looks like a volcano landscape. 

Forget about hikers in flip-flops (the bane of experienced hikers), this guy is barefoot!

We find this landscape very beautiful. The "lakes" are actually only one lake called "Lej da Pischa" (Pischa Lake)

Lunch at Fuorcla Pischa

We spent 30 minutes up here, which is a relatively long break for us!

Heading across the large upper Pischa plateau

First view of the Bernina Valley, with the reservoir lake Lago Bianco in the background (water drains both north and south) and behind that the descent into the Poschiavo Valley. At the back the fabulous Bernina Massif and the cableway called Diavolezza which accesses the ridge from where you can look onto the Pers Glacier. 

And the magnificent Val da Fain which we are descending into (before heading out into the Bernina Valley). The peak on the right is called Piz Alv

VIDEO:

Panorama view of Val da Fain and Val Bernina before our descent.

Time to head down the (relatively) steep 600-m descent. Only the top part was a bit tricky, but no issue for us. 

After this section, the trail became hard-packed and easy to walk. 

A look behind us to where we descended. From here it looks difficult, but it wasn't really

This section and the zig-zags lower down were an easy descent. 

A close-up of Lago Bianco at the Bernina Pass, and beyond that the Poschiavo Valley and the mountains of the Valtellina (Italy, Tirano). The waters from the lake on the North side eventually reach the Black Sea via the Rivers Inn and Danube, and the waters on the South side eventually reach the Mediterranean via Poschiavo, Adda and Po. 

Another look up the beautiful Fain Valley

Close-up view of Piz Palü in the Bernina Massif, the Pers Glacier, and the summit station of the Diavolezza Cableway. 

I might have had a hard time making it up there if we had started on this side. Plus, we aren't even half-way down to the river at this point!

Another cute marmot

The final 100 meters were a bit rough, but then we got onto this easy road for the final leg to the Bernina Railway line. On the left is the Diavolezza base station. We are going to the Bernina Suot station on the right, another 30 minutes from here. 

At the Bernina Suot train station. Piz Alv is the name of this peak, and below it is the Val da Fain where we just came out of 

Gasthaus Bernina Suot, another fabulous Engadine building

The Glacier Express train on its way to the Bernina Pass. Urs noticed that even though the stop lights on the road had long been flashing, that car still tried to cross before the barriers came down. He thought better of it, but was caught between barrier and railway line, which is often a recipe for disaster. He was lucky that the space was wide enough to not be scraped by the train. 

On our way now back to Pontresina by train, we get a view of the Morderatsch Glacier and Mt. Bernina from below

We have also done many hikes in the Bernina area, including a 2-day hike into the Roseg Valley with overnight in the Coaz Alpine Hostel and return via the Corvatsch cable car to St.Moritz

On the way from Pontresina in the Upper Engadine to our next adventure in the Lower Engadine, we pass by many such cute train stations

Walking through the cobblestone streets of Ardez, looking for our accommodation for three nights

The Steinsberg Tower in Ardez

The upper two photos are of the 17th-Century Engadine House we spent three nights at (Named Chasa Clavazin, and beautifully renovated in 1923 (I believe) and is preserved as a historical monument). The bottom two photos are views out the window from the residence. 

Location of our hike in the Bernina region near St.Moritz, and then where we spent the next three days near Scuol (in Ardez) at the very far southeastern corner of Switzerland near South Tirol (Italy)