Five-hour hike from Ofen Pass to S-Charl near the Swiss National Park

Wednesday August 24, 2022 -- On our second day in the Lower Engadine (in a rented house in Ardez near Scuol), we took a bus to the Ofen Pass, which is near the Swiss National Park. (The road continues South down Val Müstair to cross the border into Italy, i.e. South Tirol).

Our plan was to walk to the mountain village of S-Charl, which is at the back of the Clemgia Ravine near Scuol. So basically, we'd be walking in the direction of our accommodation. The mountain village of S-Charl was a surprise, accessible by road from Scuol but through a ravine so full of rubble which has rolled down the mountains for so many years, you could hardly imagine that the back of this valley was accessible.

Although our hike wasn't directly inside the National Park, the first section starting at the pass was on a less-traveled route, from where we looked INTO the National Park (Val Nüglia and Piz Nair). The trail itself was interesting to walk as well. Once we reached the "pass" called "Fuorcla Funtana da S-Charl", the trail became more monotonous, a 3-hour walk straight down the valley, partly through scrubby pine forest, and along a wide road.... which we avoided by following an unofficial trail next to the river on the last stretch. It took longer, but was more interesting.

After the bus ride out of the valley to Scuol, we were again too early to go back to the house, so we took another bus up to the Tarasp Castle, which is the distinctive landmark as you travel down this valley, and it's hard to imagine that there is an entire village below the castle, hidden by the forest. After a short tour of the village and its pretty houses, we returned to Scuol and to Ardez for our final night in the Lower Engadine. 

The train station in Ardez was only 5 minutes from our accommodation. From here we take the train to Zernez and then the bus which passes through the National Park, over the Ofen Pass, and down to South Tirol. We started early, 8 a.m. at the train station. 

Passing throug Lavin on the way to Zernez

Heading by bus through the magnificent Swiss National Park on the way to the Ofen Pass

A look back down the valley to the north as we travel to the Ofen Pass

The Ofen Pass, also known as "Pass dal Fuorn", seems to have a new name now: Süsom Givè

Our hike starts at the Ofen Pass, or "Pass dal Fuorn". It's about 9 a.m.

A long hike, almost 16 km, from the Ofen Pass just East of the Swiss National Park, via Val Bella to S-Charl. With the alternate route before S-Charl, this was a 5-hour hike. This is very near the border of Italy (South Tirol)

The steep uphill section was completed quickly. We took our time, as there were some chatty people on the trail, and we had to wait until they got far enough ahead of us. 

The landscape behind us is all in the Swiss National Park. This is also close to the Italian border (Livigno)

Stunning rock formations

Even though our trail is NOT in the National Park, the mountain ahead of us (Piz Nair) is. 

A very interesting trail to walk on this first section, heading into Val Bella

The mountains at the back are the border between Italy and Switzerland

A look North into the mountains of the Swiss National Park

A closer look up Val Nüglia, which is in the Swiss National Park

This was the most interesting part of the hike, as we head into Valbella ("Beautiful Valley")

A look back down the Valbella Valley toward Piz Nair in the Swiss National Park

Heading up Valbella toward Fuorcla Funtana da S-Charl

It looks like the whole mountain is disintegrating!

Here near the passage on this wide open upper plain is where we had an early picnic break (11:30 a.m.).

Those snow-covered peaks are in the South Tirol, and below them is the highest pass in Switzerland: Umbrail Pass (2501m) and the popular Stilfserjoch Pass in Italy (2757m)

Here is the passage between Val Müstair and the S-Charl Valley. From here it was a very long three hours down the valley to the bus at S-Charl. I found it rather monotonous. 

Heading down to the S-Charl Valley

Probably the most interesting feature in this barren landscape!

Other hikers photographing "the rock"

Looking down the long S-Charl Valley. Fortunately, the road is not the only trail. We passed through the pine forest to the right of the road, but didn't see much of the river on the way.

Down below is one of only a handful of buildings in the whole valley. It is a farm and restaurant called "Tamangur Dadaint"

The mountains at the back were the west side of Valbella which we ascended (from the right)

Respect from both sides!

This young snake (it was small, only about 20 cm) was dead, looks like it might have gotten run over by a mountain bike. From the markings it could well have been a poisonous viper (common adder), one of two poisonous snake species in Switzerland (there are eight species of snake in total in this country). 

At this point we joined the river, about 4 km south of the village of S-Charl, the end of our hike. But I would not have managed 4 km on this road, so we soon found a bridge to cross to the left side of the river. The trail there was rougher but more interesting to walk, and it took us longer.

The more interesting trail on the left side of the Clemgia River. 

We got to the village of S-Charl at 15:30. We were surprised to see such a large village in this valley. 

Main square in the village of S-Charl. The bus stop is on the left, but we had another 20 minutes or so before the bus left, so we had a look at the beautiful buildings in the village. 

This might possibly once have been a Gasthaus (Usteria Alvetern)

Gasthaus Mayor is a hotel, and one of two restaurants in this mountain village!

Some features of the buildings in S-Charl

All the doors are beautiful, and all the windows have flower boxes!

Our 16-km hike from the Ofen Pass in Val Müstair, to S-Charl from where we then caught a very full bus back to Scuol 

We were back at Scuol at 4:20 p.m., and since it was still early and a beautiful day, we figured instead of returning to Ardez, we would take a side trip to Tarasp-Fontana, which is the small village at the foot of the Tarasp Castle. This castle is a dominant landmark of the Lower Engadine Valley, and from the other side of the valley you cannot see the village. We checked out some more attractive houses there, but did not walk up to the castle. 

The village of Fontana below the Tarasp Castle

Imagine the amount of work it takes to paint these houses! So much detail.

All the doors are beautiful. So many details to admire

A look up at the Tarasp Castle. There is a path up to it, but we weren't interested in going there. The Castle can only be viewed as part of a guided tour. 

This was my very favourite door! It is painted to look like it's folded, but it is perfectly flat!

Heading back to our apartment in Ardez by train. This is what one usually sees of the Tarasp Castle. There is no indication that there is a village behind it!

Our accommodation in Ardez (the house on the right). It is a fabulous house from the 17th Century, the owners have named it "Chasa Clavazin" and have furnished it with all kinds of pianos. 

The area of our hike from Ofen Pass to S-Charl in the far eastern corner of Switzerland