Exciting hike on the Fürstensteig Trail in Liechtenstein

Tuesday August 9, 2021 -- We are running out of places to hike in Switzerland, so we had to go to a neighbouring country: Liechtenstein! (That tiny country between Switzerland and Austria, and just on the east side of the Rhine River where it enters Lake Constance). 

Just joking... I had read about a challenging and fascinating hike called the Fürstensteig which is an old trail carved into a huge rocky massif which seems to consist of only vertical rock. The description promised that exposed sections were secured with hand-holds, so not a problem for us as neither of us suffer from vertigo.

This hike was really something totally unexpected and different! After 30 minutes of easy uphill hiking throught the forest, we came to the first section of cliffs, no problem for us, ooh-ing and aww-ing at the views of the Rhine Canal way below us and the interesting trail along the cliff. But once we'd rounded a corner and were looking at vertical cliffs with no indication of how we should get up there... That was a fantastic surprise! The trail revealed itself a few meters at a time as we headed upwards, with bridges and cat-walks and cement steps or steps carved from the stone. Rarely too narrow as well.

We loved the hike through the cliffs and the views into the Liechtenstein and Austrian Alps, and way down below into the Rhine Valley. And even though the second part of the hike -- a long descent along a crest mostly through forest to the bus stop at Steg -- seemed anti-climactic, the whole trip was pretty perfect. An additional highlight is that we passed right next to the geographical center of the country! Seems like a fun fact. 

The only drawback of the day (besides the long trip to get there, 3.5 hours each way) was the heat that hit us when we got back to the valley bottom in Vaduz, the capital city of the country. We have chosen our destinations fairly well, avoiding most of the valley bottom heat. Speaking of heat, seeing the Rhine River here with barely any water running through the canal was a real shock.

Soon after leaving Sargans train station by bus, we cross the border into Liechtenstein and pass by the stunning Balzers Castle. We rode this bus to Vaduz, the capital city of Liechtenstein, where we changed to a bus to Triesenberg, higher on the hillside

Heading up the hill to the large community of Triesenberg. Below is the Rhine River Canal which forms the Border with Switzerland. Straight across is Mt. Flumserberg (in Switzerland), where we also did a hike back in June. 

In Triesenberg we changed to a smaller bus, which took us to the clinic at Gaflei further up the mountain, along narrow curved roads. That's where we started on our hike. 

A look back down into the Rhine Valley on our way up the narrow winding streets to Gaflei. The mountains on the left are all in Liechtenstein. 

Description of the Fürstensteig trail

First section of our hike: approx. 30 minutes uphill through the forest from the Gaflei Clinic, then (according to the trail marker) 50 minutes to the Gaflei Saddle (we had longer of course because we made loads of photos and videos), and from there another 50 minutes to the Bargälla Saddle at the geographical centerpoint of Liechtenstein. We did not complete the loop by returning to Gaflei, but continued South along the Liechtenstein Panorama Trail. 

Start of the Fürstensteig Trail. Watching for falling rocks goes without saying! This is at 10:40 a.m., and the entire hike (to the saddle, 1 hr. 10 mins.) was in the shadow of this massive vertical rocky mountain.

Breathtaking view to the Rhine Valley below (The Rhine forms the border with Switzerland) and the Alpstein Massif in the background. Below are the cities of Vaduz and Schaan in Liechtenstein; across the river is Buchs in Switzerland

It is shocking to see how little water the Rhine is currently carrying north into Lake Constance (Bodensee). 

Happy to be heading out on this interesting trail

Now we get a view down-valley. Below is the Gaflei clinic where we started on our hike. The city below on the right is Vaduz, the capital of Liechtenstein

The first fifteen minutes or so were easy enough and interesting and we enjoyed the views. 

You must definitely not be afraid of heights. No problem for us...

VIDEO:

A short video of me walking along the cliff wall.

When we rounded the corner and saw that we were supposed to cross at the top there somewhere, we couldn't figure out where the trail was supposed to be!

Starting off on one of the most fascinating trails we have ever done, where we could only see the trail ahead for a few meters at a time!

Loving the challenge

Another look way down into the Rhine Valley. The large city below is Schaan, also in Liechtenstein. Across the bridge is Buchs, Switzerland. 

Oh, I think I see the next section of trail up ahead! How is it possible to get there?

Around the corner, a set of cement stairs makes reaching that section of trail a lot easier!

This section was a bit narrow with a small tricky part in the bend before the catwalk

VIDEO:

Urs crossing a slightly damaged section, very carefully

(A lady just breezed past us here right afterwards, she said she does this trail regularly)

It was on this section that a lady passed me at a quick pace, knowing the trail well! She passed us again on her way back down.

VIDEO:

The view down into the Rhine Valley, way, way down!

We thought we'd gotten to the top here, but it kept on going!

VIDEO:

We watched another hiker coming up behind us; it was an interesting point of view to see where we had just passed previously.

Still not finished! Another section of trail above us!

The other fellow caught up to us. We spoke a bit with him and exchanged emails to swap photos.

One final zigzag and we should be at the top

If you look closely, you can see both of us in the bend of the trail before the last stretch (photograph by Martin)

Our fellow-hiker took a photo of the two of us on the final stretch. We don't often get photos like this, where both of us are in the midst of hiking!

Having reached the saddle, one of two trails continues along the ridge toward the popular "Drei Schwestern" (Three Sisters) peaks. We have no interest in going up there!

Total time as per trail markers: 35 minutes to the start of the Fürstensteig trail, 50 minutes to the Gaflei Saddle, 2 hrs.15 to the bus stop at Steg = 3 hrs.45 minutes. Or about four hours total. 

The trail we followed turned eastward, and required another ascent through those rocky peaks ahead

The final ascent along a zigzag path to cross at that cleft, the highest point of our hike. 

Last stretch to the crossing

A few flowers growing in this barren rocky landscape

We figure these people are heading down to the Fürstensteig (with a baby and child.. I wouldn't do it). In the back is the Gaflei Saddle which we crossed after climbing the Fürstensteig.

The first view to the south now, where we are headed (into the green patch in the center). 

From here another good look toward Eastern Switzerland. Down below in the circle is the monument indicating the geographical center of Liechtenstein. We passed right next to it along the trail on the Bargälla Saddle below. 

The geographical center of Liechtenstein

Down below at that parking lot is where we caught the bus back toward Vaduz (through a tunnel on the right). 

Admiring the view

We followed a very comfortable crest trail all the way own to the road below. This trail is part of the "Liechtenstein Panorama Trail". 

A detour to the Berggasthaus Sücka to see if there were refreshments to be had. 

We found cold drinks in the barn-shop

A look back to where we crossed at the highest point of the hike. The rest of the way was along the crest of the closer hills. 

A final look at the "Three Sisters" before getting on the bus at Steg

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

Bus ride back through Triesenberg (picture on the left) to Vaduz (picture on the right)

Vaduz Castle (privately owned, cannot be visited). It is the official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein since 1939

Final bus ride back to Switzerland, another look at Balzers Castle in the afternoon light

Crossing the Rhine River. Water level is so low you can see the bottom of the canal. (No garbage!)

We've done three hikes in Liechtenstein to date. Photos of the 2018 hike can be viewed HERE. 

VIDEO:

When we returned to Zurich to catch the final train home, we witnessed preparations for a historical steam train ride. This is one of the oldest trains in Switzerland, which originally ran the stretch between Zurich and Baden (the very first railway line in Switzerland 1847 and therefore celebrating 175-year anniversary of railway in Switzerland) nick-named the "Spanische Brötli Bahn" or "Spanish Pastry Train"  because the Lords of Zurich wanted to be served special pastries on Sunday mornings. Before the railway existed, their servants had to set off on Saturday night to get the pastries back to Zurich by Sunday morning 

"Spanische Brötli Bahn" at Zurich train station. Celebrating 175 years of railway travel in Switzerland