Isenthal: A Cargo Cable Car Ride to Horlachen, and Ascent to the Horn.
Sunday May 22, 2022 -- We aren't having a lot of luck planning our hikes according to the weather forecast. This time it was for light cloud and sunshine around the Reuss Valley relatively close to where we live, but only till about noon, so we left early to take advantage of that.
The Uri Alps is a favourite region for us to hike, mainly because those private farmer's cable cars offer us the opportunity to save on altitude and we can get to higher locations. Also, there are about 30 cable cars in Canton Uri alone, many of them cargo-type cable cars offered for public use at very reasonable prices. (Here are photos of all of them: URI CABLECARS). We have a goal to have ridden each one of them at least once.
In the Isenthal Valley near Flüelen are several of these cable cars, two of which we still need to try out. So this seemed like a good day to ride up to Horlachen Alp, followed by a 420m climb (1 hour) to the summit of a local mountain called Horn. The hope was to have enough sunshine for a good view into both the Isenthal Valleys and the Chlital Valley (which also offers two such cable cars) and down onto Lake Uri. Unfortunately though, it was simply a hot and humid climb, and a very hazy view. Somewhat disappointing. The ride in the cable car was great though, as usual.
Buses out of the Isenthal Valley are few and far between, so even though we started early at the Horlachen Farm (9:30), we had to either complete a 2.5-hour hike by 12:20 (less than three hours) or wait for the 15:30 bus. We chose the former, and even though Urs hat to return to the summit after we had already started our descent to retrieve my cell-phone which I'd left there -- adding another 120m to his already 400m ascent -- we still made it to the bus stop before the bus got there.
As luck would have it, the sun came out once we returned to Lake Uri level by 1 p.m., so we added a boat ride to Brunnen onto our day's excursion, and still got home early enough for a nap....
Interesting Notes: 1) The Post Bus drivers in the remote Swiss Valleys not only deliver mail and packages, but apparently also empty milk cans! and 2) Turns out that exactly on this day in 2016 we walked out of this Valley starting at the furthest back bus stop (St.Jakob, where we got on the bus this time after this hike.).
All the buses for the outlying valleys start at the new Altdorf train station. We were here already at 8:20, wanting to get an early start. We were surprised when the bus showed up pulling a trailer of empty milk cans!
Heading up the road into the Isenthal Valley. You can see how the road has been blasted out of the cliff wall. The bus just barely makes it through there!
Now we're in the Isenthal Valley heading West. Mt.Horn which we will ascend from the other side (after saving some altitude with the cable car) is straight ahead
In the center of the valley is the village of Isenthal, same name as the valley.
Here at this farm the driver had to get out and unload some of the milk cans! I had been sitting in the front next to the driver, so I stepped out to photograph him and make a short video!
This is where we got off the bus. You can just see the cables from the cableway up ahead. Our bus is driving off with the rest of the milk cans to unload further up the valley.
This cable car has only one cabin, and it was up at the farm. We did call the farmer the evening before to let him know that we'd be here at 9 a.m., but we now have to call again, from the phone in the shed. Fortunately we only had to wait about 10 minutes till the cabin came down.
Here it comes, the single little cabin which services the Horlachen Farm 350m higher up
VIDEO:
The cargo cable car coming down from the alpine farm so we can ride up
We just love these cable cars!
View down the Isenthal Valley from the Horlachen cable car. In the middle of the photo is a "saddle", there is also a similar cable car that takes you up there. We have ridden that one before. Those photos can be found HERE.
VIDEO:
The view as we ride up with the little cargo cable car
The young farmer fellow who ran the motor to bring us up here, let the cabin out again a bit so Urs could take this photo. It costs 7 SFr. for a ride.
Horlachen Farm. We stopped here at the house to pay for the ride, then continued up the hill behind the house. Ultimate goal is the mountain on the left. (There is no trail up the one on the right).
We got to the Schluchen bus stop at 9 a.m. but had to wait till they sent the cable car down. Then with the ride up and chatting with the farmer etc., we started for the summit of Horn at 9:30. It was an ascent of 420m, took us 1 hour. On the way down we were already at the saddle when I realized I had left my phone on the summit. So Urs went back up to get it. Back at Sattel, the descent would normally take us 1 hr 10 minutes, but we did it in an hour, in time for the 12:20 bus!
Lots of meadow flowers on our hike up the hill....
A steep uphill climb, but you gain altitude quickly this way.
A view of the mountains to the West, separating this valley from the Engelberg Valley. We have crossed those passes a few times already!
Nearing the saddle
On the last stretch up to the Horn, a look back at the saddle and the steep slope we climbed.
Summit of the Horn. From here you can see down to Lake Uri, but we have had much better views of this lake on other occasions! For example, below to the East is the Chlital Valley (could not get a good view of it from here). When we tried a cable car in that valley, the view was much better. Those photos are HERE.
We had just a small amount of sunshine for this photo. It is also here that I left my phone and Urs found it when he came back up again.
Heading back down from the Horn. We aren't going back to the Horlachen Farm, but rather across the flank up ahead.
From the Saddle a look to the East. This mountain cabin also belongs to the farmers at Horlachen (they hiked up behind us, but came only this far). Below is Lake Uri.
A look back at the Horn
We were surprised by a section of avalanche snow
A large part of the descent was on this wide forest road, so we made good time.
Last section. The bus stop is just behind the trees in the center of the photo, and the bus wasn't there yet.
We came down from the left. But ahead at the back is a crossing we did last year, coming from the Engelberg Valley side.
How the trail looks on Google Satellite Maps.
Heading out of the valley by bus, to the boat dock at Isleten:
Our bus driver was the same fellow as the one who delivered the milk cans earlier. I sat in the seat next to the driver again. (We weren't able to do that during the pandemic). Down below is the north end of Lake Uri.
This is the south end of Lake Uri
The curves are more than 180-degrees!
VIDEO:
Ride down the 1901-built road out of the Isenthal Valley. Until 1901, access was on foot only! (300m ascent). The road is blasted right out of the rock wall. It's worth watching right till the end of this 2-minute video.
Here is where we got off the bus, to walk to the boat docking station at Isleten. A look back at the blasted gallery, where the bus goes up. During the bus runs, cars are not allowed to come in the opposite direction.
Our bus driver heading back to Altdorf.
Our boat ride from Isleten to Brunnen, always a treat!
This time it is the modern "Diamant" coming to pick us up. We have ridden this particular ship before, from Hertenstein to Luzern.
Leaving the dock at Isleten, and looking back, we can see the Horn!
This used to be a munitions depot. The rich Egyptian investor Samih Sawiris, who already built a luxury resort in Andermatt, has purchased this and wants to make a yacht port here, with hotels and restaurants. This is what he wants to build: LINK to SRF ARTICLE
Until 1956, the village of Bauen was only accessible on foot or by boat. Now there is a road from Isleten (a tunnel also blasted through the cliff), but by public transit there is only the boat.
The water is really this colour!
At the dock to the Rütli Meadows are reminders of the creation of the Federation of Switzerland when representatives of the Cantons Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden gave the vow to join together in 1291.
The beautiful cliffs of Seelisberg
The Schiller monument. Schiller was the German author who wrote the story of William Tell. (The story was to have taken place in this region).
In the town of Brunnen, as we head to the train station for the short trip home.
Obviously, this is a region where we love to hike!
The region of the Isenthal Valley, not far from where we live.
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