July 19, 2020

Canton Uri Three Valleys: Isenthal to Chlital to Reusstal

Sunday July 19th -- A favourite hidden valley of ours nearby is called the Isenthal Valley, accessed by road from Flüelen on Lake Uri only since 1901 (before that, the 300m climb had to always be done on foot). At the main village that gives its name to the valley is a side valley called Chlital. And at the back of the Chlital Valley are two private cable cars that are still on our list of Uri cable cars that we wanted to ride. Problem is, to get to the first of the two cable cars requires a 40-50 minute uphill walk along mostly paved roads (and 1 hr 20 minutes to the one further back) and since I don't like walking uphill on paved roads, we have been putting this off for a while now.

But another beautiful day, and an early start with shade on the road meant it shouldn't be too hard to do, and the hike was definitely worth it. The cute little cargo cable-car took us up to the sunshine in less than 10 minutes, and to more spectacular views of the region. The first climb was easy, only 150m to the ridge from where we already got the first of many spectacular views into the Reuss Valley. The next 150m climb to the tiny peak called Shartihöreli was likewise not exceedingly difficult. And just for the view, I'd come here again.

What was really hard was the descent we chose, a steep 1000m on the Reuss Valley side to a small farm called Bodmi, where the Internet had informed us that the farmer's cable-car was running and manned every day. Which turned out to not be the case when we got there with very tired feet from over an hour of navigating a difficult forest trail covered in roots and loose rocks... such a disappointment to not be able to ride the Bodmi Cable Car! This also meant we had to complete the remaining 300m descent on foot! (As it turns out, this was the nicest part of the forest descent!)

A short section on the main road and a 15-minute rest at the lakeside before catching the bus back, and we were home in jut 90 minutes for a good long rest after these three days of 4-6 hour hikes!


Heading South along Lake Uri toward Flüelen is one of my favourite landscapes. Across the lake, next to the distinctive Mt. Gitschen is the little peak that we are ascending from the Chlital Valley behind it, after first taking the bus up the Isenthal Valley, which is the valley right this side of the peak

Half-way up the Isenthal Valley, in the town of the same name, is the side valley called Chlital. To get to the first little cable car, we have to walk 40-50 minutes into this valley along mostly a paved road (Being in the shade of the mountain was advantageous)

A distinctive feature of the town of Isenthal is the uniformity of the wooden carved grave markers in the local cemetery.

Crossing the Isentalerbach River with a look eastward down-valley


At one section of the paved road we were able to take a short-cut, a steep trail through the forest. But first the farmer has to clear the trail for us! Here they harvest wild hay anywhere that it grows

A simple information panel (for children) informs us that the last bear in the Isenthal Valley was shot at this location (in 1820 -- the paws of the bear are on display in a show-window in one of the homes in Isenthal).

A steep zig-zag trail through the forest offers a welcome shortcut along the winding paved

We did get the offer of a ride from a vehicle driving to the back of the valley, but we were almost at the destination, and we didn't want to miss this kind of landscape along the way


After 40 minutes of walking (Internet information for the cable car says it only takes 30 minutes, but 40 is the minimum!) we arrive at the cable car station (on the left).



A look up to the Gietisflue Alp where we are headed, and the peak of Mt.Gitschen behind it, which several "younger" people have decided to climb this day

The view into the Chlital and Isenthal Valleys as we ascend with the cable car

At the summit station, the single farmhouse on the Gietisflue Alp, to whom this private cable-car belongs. Two other young men had ridden up with us in this one.


The goats had their barn in the lower level of the cable car station!

Watching the other cable car come up. More young people going to climb Mt. Gitschen. We were glad we made the ride in the open cargo car, as this "passenger car" has closed windows!

The trail heading toward Mt. Gitschen. Too late we realized we also could have taken this trail to the ridge on the left, and then returned along the ridge

After almost 2 km along the paved road from Isental (40-50 minutes) we ascended to the farm at Gietisflue with the little private cable car. We then walked to the top of the peak called Schartihöreli, and then descended to the farm at Bodmi with the expectation of riding their cable-car down to lake level. But we could not reach the operator, so had to walk down to the bus stop, an additional 300m beyond what we were expecting to do. So in total walking time was again about 5 hours, with a total descent of over 1300m.... 

The mountain farmers at Gietisflue own the cable car that they need to get up here (they live here all year round) but they make it available to the public. The wedge of grass behind the barn is to prevent the structures being damaged by snow sliding down the hill in winter.

Another perfect day for hiking. Way at the back on the other side of the valley is a little cluster of buildings, including a restaurant, called Musenalp. To get there it is good to have a car, because on foot it takes 1 hr. 20 minutes just to get to the cable car station.

Heading up to the ridge we pass another farm where they are also busy harvesting the mountain hay

As we get to the ridge, this is the first view we get into the Reuss and Schächental Valleys to the East. An area we know very well.

We decided on a small detour to the South, where we actually could have come up from in the first place. Ahead of us is the peak of Mt. Gitschen. Urs has also been to its summit in his younger days. There are a couple of exposed places along the way which make the climb a difficult one.

Taking a detour South along the ridge, before returning northward

We stopped at the foot of the trail where it ascends to Mt. Gitschen, for this view of Lake Uri, before returning northward to our originally planned peak to climb.

That little peak is called Schartihöreli, and is the highest point our our planned hike, a climb of altogether only 300m from the cable car station in the Chlital Valley

The summit is tiny, and there are already people up there, but they descended again after we arrived!

From the summit, an absolutely stunning view into the back of the Chlital Valley, and the ridge below where we ascended.

To our North, a view all along Lake Uri to the town of Brunnen at the back. Our trail continues down the ridge and through the forest afterwards

We would have stayed longer at the summit, to have our picnic lunch, if it hadn't been for the zillions of flies up there.

From the peak, a panorama to the South of Mt. Gitchen, the Chlital Valley on the right, and the Reusstal Valley on the left.

VIDEO:
Stunning panorama view down into the Reusstal Valley, from Brunnen on the North end of Lake Uri, to Flüelen on the South end, to Altdorf, and into the Schächtental Valley.




Heading down through the meadows on our long descent back to lake level

A view down to the road along the lake where we are going to catch the bus. We still have to descend all that way!

Descending next to the cliff

Below us the farmers are busy mowing and raking the hay. (We had to find the trail through all the mown hay). The large alpine meadows across the way are actually on the other side of the Isenthal Valley. There is a farmer's cable-car there as well, which we rode on a previous hike a year or two ago.

This is another one of those cute farmer's cable cars, but unfortunately not available for public use!

A long steep stretch on a narrow forest trail was a bit difficult to navigate

VIDEO: 
An interesting section along an otherwise difficult forest trail



The lake level still looks very far down!

At a clearing called Plattenberg, we get a view up above the cliff where we had descended the meadows earlier, then along the cliff to the right, switching back along the difficult forest trail (groups can rent this place, but there isn't much to do up here!)

After another almost 30-minutes descent from Plattenberg, we arrive at Bodmi, where we are looking forward to riding down with their cable car!

The cable car saves us a further 300m descent to lake level

Waiting in the cable car while Urs tries to reach the operator. No one answered, so we couldn't ride it! So disappointing. There was a paved road down to lake level, but we decided on the longer forest trail, which ended up being the nicest of all the forest trails we'd taken that day! So in the end, glad to have done it.

Lots of summer lilac in the shady forest on the final 300m descent to lake level

Almost down at the lake. Once there, we sat at a popular lake access for 20 minutes while waiting for the bus. We keep forgetting to take our bathing suits along! Would have been a nice swim

Waiting along the main road for the 16:00 bus returning from the Isenthal Valley, a look at the ridge we descended.


With the 40-minute walk into the Chlital Valley, and at least 4 hours down to lake level, this turned out to be another 5-hour hike, more than anticipated!

We have done loads of hiking in this area. It is beautiful, close to home, and loads of options to get high into the mountains with cable cars. 



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