The Schabziger Trail in Canton Glarus

Sunday May 15, 2022 -- We knew there was a thunderstorm in the forecast, but not until late in the day, so we were still able to get into the mountains early enough to benefit from most of the nice part of the day.

This time we went into the Glarus Alps, just outside the top northwest border of the UNESCO World Heritage Site: Tectonic Arena Sardona. (Because we weren't right in the midst of the region, we didn't see much of the geology which characterizes this area, namely the Glarus Thrust).

The trail we followed, which starts at the top of the Filzbach-Habergschwänd chair lift (lovingly nicknamed the "slowest chair lift in Switzerland" by the locals) is called the "Schabziger Höhenweg" or Schabziger Trail, a trail that highlights the characteristics of the Schabziger cheese (sold in North America under the name "SapSago"), a non-fat, lactose-free, dry green cheese made with a special herb called Trigonella Caerulea (Blue Fenugreek, a type of clover), and one of the oldest branded products in the world. (The cheese, which is in production with the same recipe since the 8th Century, was patented in 1463 and this region is the only place in the world where the product is manufactured.) 

The first section of the trail, which starts above lake Walensee and then curves southward into the Linthal Valley, is a wonderful trail through forests and farmland with splendid views both into the flatlands toward the Zurich Region as well as the stunning mountain landscape around the Glarus area. We had superb visibility for most of the hike, and the bright yellow fields of dandelions in the upper alp called Mullerenberg were magnificent. Only the final half-hour ascent to the "Naturfreundeshaus Fronalpstock" (a type of fancy hostel with a restaurant and a superb view, also very popular on a Sunday afternoon) was a bit tough, along a section of paved road on a hot afternoon, and no shade.

Well, this was not actually the final section. Only the final section of the first 2.5-hour hike, to a meal we had been looking forward to, as we had studied the menu and had seen that they offered specialties made with the local Schabziger. After this fine meal (at 2 p.m.!) we decided to finish the remaining two-hour descent to Glarus at the valley bottom. It is possible to order a taxi, but we found that too expensive.

Side note: I don't usually order spaghetti in a restaurant, because that's too easy to make at home. But I couldn't resist trying something new: Spaghetti with a Schabziger sauce, with thick bacon and pineapple!!! It was delicious!

This is the Schabziger cheese, how it is packaged and branded, one of the oldest brands in the world. The Glarus region is the only place this no-fat lactose-free pungent cheese is produced.

 

Waiting for the connecting train at Ziegelbrücke Train Station, we walked onto the bridge across the Linth Canal for a look up into the mountains where we were going to be walking this day. The pointed mountain on the right is called the Fronalpstock and was a feature of the day.

Heading by train to Mühlehorn on Lake Walensee (where we changed to a bus), we get this fantastic view down the Linthal Valley, which is where most of our hike took place (on the hillside to the left)

Our hike took place just outside the top Northwest corner of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Tectonic Arena Sardona. As we walked southward, the Glarus Peaks were on our left.

A short bus ride up the hill from Lake Walensee to Filzbach, where we took the "slowest chairlift in Switzerland" up the hill to the Schapziger Trail, saving ourselves over 500m of ascent. Here we are heading to the cable car station.

The Filzbach-Habergschwänd Chair Lift, dubbed the slowest chair lift in Switzerland. Which means we had a nice 15-minute ride to enjoy the view!

Looking behind us at Lake Walensee below, and the upper plateau Amden/Arvenbühl where we have also done a lot of hiking. 

Starting at the Habergschwänd summit station, we are going to follow regional Trail no.822, toward Mullerenberg and Glarus. In total, it's a 4.5-hour hike

Altogether 4.5 hours hiking time on this trail from Habergschwänd to Glarus. We started at 10:20 and arrived at the base of Mt. Fronalpstock at the restaurant at 13:20. After a late lunch at 2 p.m., we continued down the hill for another two hours or so, and got to Glarus at 5 p.m. 

After a nice and warm uphill climb, we arrived at Nüenalp, a farm where they make their own cheese. The first good look up the Linth Valley toward the Zürich region

Here they process their own milk to make cheese, which is also sold here

At the Nüenalp Farm is one of many information panels where we learn about milk and cheese production in the Glarus Alps. 80% of Switzerland's arable land can only be used to grow grass, so it is ideally suited for raising cows and for milk production. There are approximately 20,000 farmers producing 3.4 million tons of milk per year, obtained from 528,000 cows! On average, a milk farm is 26 hectares, supporting 26 cows, producing 164,000 kilograms of milk. Also on average, each Swiss citizen drinks 50 liters of milk per year.

For most of the way we had comfortable forest and meadow trails. 

A final look at the west end of Lake Walensee before we head south into the Linth Valley

Now we are in the Linth Valley (Linthal). This panorama view is to the Schwyzer Alps to the west, where we had done a hike recently in the Wägital Valley. 

The beautiful Linth Valley and the stunning peaks with their vertical east faces. Between those two peaks is the road that leads up to the beloved Lake Klöntal (Klöntalersee) and the Pragel Pass, one of the last passes in the Alps to open to traffic in spring. 

A zoomed view to the very back of the Linthal Valley to the peak called Mount Tödi (3612m). We have been often in this area, and usually this peak is in the clouds. We were pleased to get such a clear view. Below the arrow is the Fronalpstock Restaurant where we had lunch before descending to Glarus on the other side. 

Heading down the hill to the large upper alp called Mullerenberg. 

On the descent to this beautiful alpine pasture, we stopped for a snack and to admire Mt. Fronalpstock, the yellow meadows, and the uphill climb awaiting us to get to the restaurant on the ridge on the other side of the alp 

Dandelions are usually considered to be "weeds" among the meadow flowers, but aren't these meadows simply gorgeous?

And looking uphill to the ridge to the east (in the UNESCO Region), also beautiful with the dandelions!

The signpost at the center of the alpine pastures informs us that we still have an hour to walk to the restaurant (and at least 30 minutes of that was uphill on paved roads). From there two more hours on any of the several options to get back to the valley bottom. ALSO, there is something nearby called a "Beizli" which is a place you can stop for self-serve refreshments. We would have missed it if we hadn't seen this sign 

The selfserve fridge offered locally-made cheeses and sausages, as well as Glarus specialties (and cold drinks which are always welcome!). We bought some processed cheese wedges made with the same Blue Fenugreek herb used to make the Schabziger cheese. I am always impressed at the trust that the locals have in passersby: The tin can with a slit on top for the payment, is attached to the shelf by a short bit of string.... 

Very interesting information about the Schabziger cheese: This no-fat cheese has been produced here in the Glarus region for over 1000 years. In 1463, a law was passed to ensure the production standard for the Schabziger cheese, creating the first branded product in Switzerland, and possibly globally as well. 

Another lovely view of the Linth River Canal flowing to the north toward Lake Zurich

Behind the ridges an interesting peak appears. This must be Mt. Mürtschenstock. 

Heading up the paved road toward the Naturfreundeshaus Fronalpstock (restaurant). The Linthal Valley below has a long history of industry, as we learned on a bike ride down this valley several years ago.

Three hours after we started our hike, we reached the restaurant on the ridge. (This is good performance for us, as the actual walking time is 2.5 hours) 

From up here at the restaurant/hostel you get a view right into the Klöntal Valley and you can even see Lake Klöntalersee. The cities of Netstal and Glarus are below; it takes two hours to walk down there. 

Enjoying the Glarus Specialties served here: Rösti with Speck and Schabziger sauce (for Urs) and I tried something completely different: Spaghetti with Schabziger sauce, Speck, pineapple and fried onions. It was SOOOO good!

A last look at Mt. Fronalpstock before heading down to the valley bottom

In the back are the peaks of the Tectonic Arena Sardona 

Another look down at the Klöntal Valley before heading down the hill

The Alps at the back of the Linthal Valley (this is to the south) are slowly being hidden by approaching clouds, preparing for the electrical storm. 

Down below is Glarus (or maybe Netstal?), still a long way away!

The mountains would not be the same without the cows.... 

Clever fountain: The water pours into the hollow of a tree stump

At the barn below on the left we made a long stop before continuing. My feet hurt so much from the long steady descent, that I had to massage them extensively before I could go on. 

Near the river now, we spy the train station

Crossing the Linth river to the train station in Glarus

On our way back to Ziegelbrücke by train, we saw the Mullerenberg plateau which we had crossed, the one with the millions of dandelions. Mt. Fronalpstock on the right. The restaurant/hostel at the right arrow. 

What the 4.5-hour, 13-km hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. Mt. Mürtschenstock is the large one in the center. 

We have done many hikes in this area as well, including to Lake Klöntal and over the Pragel Pass, and the Schwi Pass to Lake Wägitalersee. (Top left)

Area in Switzerland where this is located. It also doesn't take us long to get here. Two hours by public transit, but that also includes 30 minutes transfer in Ziegelbrücke.