From Furka Pass to Oberwald: Rhône Glacier, Grimsel Pass and More!

Sunday September 12, 2021 -- This time we totally lucked out with our choice of hike for the day. We had considered many other options, but the region around the Furka Pass was supposed to have the best weather, and there was a hike in that region I had long wanted to do. 

We had to get up at 05:30 to catch the mountain bus from Andermatt to the Furka Pass (only two buses per day in each direction) and were worried that being a Sunday, there would be masses of people wanting to ride the same bus, but really, there were surprisingly few! Any hike of interest in this area is difficult to coordinate with the bus schedule, so we chose to walk along a high trail across from the magnificent Rhône Glacier, and then descend to the Obergoms Valley of upper Valais, another lengthy descent of about 1400 meters. (We had hourly train connections back home from Oberwald). The descent was hard on the feet, but the fantastic views of both the Furka Pass and the Grimsel Pass with their stunning hairpin zigzag roads and mountain backdrops, and in particular the incomparable view of the Rhône Glacier, made it all worth the effort. And best of all: No other people on this trail!

Furthermore, the old Furka Railway at the valley bottom is still in use in summer as a tourist run, and we were able to observe the passage of the steam engines far below. Until the completion of the Furka Base Tunnel in 1982, this was the main railway line over the Furka Pass. 

Interesting note: We arrived at the Furka Pass from Andermatt, which is in Canton Uri. As we arrived at the pass, the bus driver welcomed us to Canton Valais. Only  now have I realized how very large Canton Valais is! We think of it in terms of Switzerland's Southwest, but here the Rhône Glacier forms a small finger into the very central part of Switzerland! And right to West is the border with Canton Bern, and right to the Southeast the one with Ticino. So it's like we were right in the center of four Cantons!

Coming from Northern Switzerland we catch a bus from Andermatt via Realp toward the Furka Pass, coming from the East. Right on the Pass is the border with Canton Valais. Down below is the old Furka Railway Line, which until the completion of the Furka Base Tunnel in 1982 was the main railway line via the Furka Pass

At the start of our hike at the Furka Pass we can actually see Lake Totesee at the Grimsel Pass to the West. So at this point we have just crossed from Canton Uri into Canton Valais, and are looking down into Canton Bern. This is fascinating!!! 

(On a side note: A couple of years ago we hiked from the Grimsel Pass to the top of Mt.Sidelhorn, which is the peak on the first set of hills behind the lake. Those photos are HERE)

Heading up the trail from the Furka Pass Road. The first 30 minutes or so were in the morning shadow of the mountain, so we walked quickly...

VIDEO:

Magnificent View at the very start of our hike:

We started at the Furka Pass and walked on a fairly level trail to a small ridge from where we got some spectacular views of both pass roads and the old Furka Railway below, as well as the magnificent Rhône Glacier directly to the North. Then we had a very long descent down to Oberwald, passing through a small hamlet called Gere, from where we also saw into the beautiful Gere Valley to the East.

The trail we followed was fairly level and easy to walk.

We surprised some sheep as we rounded a corner!

Down below, there is a train just exiting the tunnel along the old Furka Railway Line, coming up from Realp to the East. This is not the historic steam engine, though. 

Looking behind us to the Furka Pass and beyond, is the Sidelen Glacier, and below it the tiny Sidelen Hostel. We hiked up to that hostel two years ago, and from there along the mountainside parallel to the Furka Pass Road to the Rhône Glacier. Those photos can be views HERE.

Zoomed view of the Sidelen Hostel above the Furka Pass on the other side of the valley. It fairly disappears in the barren rocky landscape

A section with some tunnels along the trail. In the background on the right you can just see the Rhône Glacier appearing 

And finally, the first view of the lake which has formed at the base of the Rhône Glacier. The building along the Furka Pass Road is the old Belvédère hotel, no longer in use. In 1988 I had taken a bus tour along this road, and there was no lake or waterfall. The glacier at that time reached below the lake. 

A final look at the trail behind us, which we followed from the Furka Pass

We have now reached the ridge where we got the best view of the magnificent Rhône Glacier and the superb Furka Pass Road. 

Zoomed view of the Rhône Glacier and the Belvedère Hotel along the Furka Pass Road. When I was here 30 years ago, the glacier covered the entire section at the bottom left. 

Panorama view from the Furka Pass on the right, to the Rhône Glacier, to the Grimsel Pass and Obergoms Valley on the far left. 

Usually we don't stay in one place very long, but this was so beautiful, we spent at least an hour up here. 

Zoomed view of the fantasic Grimsel Pass Road and Lake Totesee

According to the Furka Steam Train schedule, two trains would pass below while we were on the view ridge, so we stayed to watch. Down below is the little blue train coming up from Oberwald

The little blue steam train from Oberwald to Realp. It's now 11:30. 

20 minutes later, the red train passed by, heading from Realp to Oberwald. 

VIDEO:

Grimsel Pass, Steam Trains, and the Rhône Glacier

(Opens as a YouTube Video, my own video)

Another very close look at the glacier tongue of the mighty Rhône Glacier

And an even closer look at the ice which floats on the lake at the glacier tongue

We found a great place to have our picnic lunch, in full view of the Rhône Glacier directly to the North. 

Before starting downhill into the Obergoms Valley, another look down to the Grimsel Pass

Directly to our South is the beautiful Goms Valley (Upper Canton Valais) with the town of Oberwald at this end, the goal of our hike.

Cows with white stripes are not common, and certainly not three at the same time!

As usual, there are cows on our trail, and Urs makes a large detour around them, as they also keep a close eye on him!

We didn't descend on the direct way to Oberwald, but took a detour into the side valley called Geretal. This was a wonderful trail with lots of things to see, including this interesting tree

A totally different vantage point of the Grimsel Pass Road, now directly North of us. We are on a hillside called Hungerberg. 

Looking eastward into the Geretal Valley. From here it is another hour to walk to Oberwald. 

The Geretal Valley, a side valley from Oberwald. 

Descending into the little hamlet called Gere

Some pretty houses in Gere

We came down from the Furkapass and Hungerberg, and are heading to Oberwald. 

Another interesting sight from our trail higher up: Sheep being driven to new pastures

Sheep heading out to new pastures. 

Once we reached the outskirts of Oberwald (this is actually called Unterwassern), we still had about 15 minutes to get to the train station. 

Heading through the outskirts of Oberwald toward the train station. 

The longest fountain we have yet seen!

Some old buildings in Oberwald

From the train station in Oberwald, we get a view of the entire region where we walked this day! From now on, every time we pass here, we will look at these mountains differently!

How our 5-hour hike looks on Google Satellite Maps

From Oberwald we take the regular train through the Furka Base Tunnel, then along the Urseren Valley toward Andermatt. A look behind us toward the Furka Pass shows that clouds had gathered after we left the area!

Heading toward Andermatt where we catch the next train North into the Reuss Valley. 

Behind us the lovely Urseren Valley, looking toward the Furka Pass

A favourite passage of mine from Andermatt to Göschenen: The Schöllenen Gorge with the fabled Devil's Bridge.  

In the circle is the location of the Rhône Glacier. A small tip of Canton Valais which stretches into Central Switzerland. I never realized this! For this excursion we were hiking in Canton Valais, but surrounded on all sides by three other Cantons.