On the Via Sbrinz Mule Track over the Grimsel Pass to the Goms Valley

Sunday August 24, 2025 -- With a few nice days now in the forecast, but being a Sunday, we had to think of going somewhere where we wouldn't encounter too many hikers on the trail. We hadn't been to the Grimsel Pass in quite a long time, and that became the plan for this day, to start at the Grimsel Hospiz near the massive Grimsel Dam, walk over the pass and down into the Goms valley in Canton Wallis. This hike is part of the themed trail called "Via Sbrinz" (historical mule trails) and would connect us to two other hikes we have done along this trail on either side of this section.

We figured there would not be many people on the hiking trail there (which turned out to be the case), but it was the getting there that was chaotic and never to be done again on a Sunday: We had to travel with the Panorama Express train from Luzern to Meiringen (to catch the bus there) and that's the train line which has become renowned through social media for the must-do trip to Interlaken. We didn't get any seats this time, as they were all taken, but second class was worse...

But we made it onto the bus, and had a spectacular bus ride to the Hospiz just below the pass. It was a fairly easy hike to the pass (after spending a lot of time admiring the lake), and then another three hours for the long descent to Obergesteln. Good thing the sun was shining, as it was very cold up there. At the pass there were a lot of people (pass road, lots of motorcycles, a couple of restaurants) but only a few people on the trail, mostly coming up from the other side. 

PART I: The trip to Grimsel Hospiz on Lake Grimselsee

Leaving home at shortly after 7 a.m., we first had to travel from Luzern to Meiringen on the Interlaken Panorama Express train, which was crammed full of tourists! Luckily we then got good seats on the bus to the Grimsel Pass, sitting on the side with the most views along the Hasli Valley. After a total trip of three hours, we got to the Grimsel Hospiz (Hotel) at 10:15 a.m. 

This view of Lake Lungern is the reason that the train ride between Luzern and Interlaken has become so popular! The train was so full that we didn't even find seats in First Class, which is what we usually ride. 

Once over the Brünig Pass, the train reaches the Hasli Valley near Meiringen, where we transferred to the bus which heads up to the Grimsel Pass. 

A typical chalet from this region in the Bernese Oberland. 

Near the Aare Gorge we reach Innertkirchen with this fabulous view southward up the Hasli Valley toward the Grimsel Pass. 

As the bus winds up the Hasli Valley, we get views northwards where the bus had run up from. 

At this point, the road actually goes through a newer tunnel. But our bus, which actually runs the "Four-Passes Tour" takes us on the old road, which is basically a single-lane road along a steep cliff! (Marked in the red circle on the left). 

A closer look at the old highway which our bus took us on!

Another look behind us where the bus came up the Hasli Valley

Then we pass the first of several dams. This one is on the north end of Lake Räterichsboden. This whole region is set up for producing hydro-electric power. 

Passing Lake Räterichsboden. From here we observe solar panels mounted on the dam. 

As the bus climbs the winding road toward the Grimsel Dam, you can see the water which flows from the upper dams to Lake Räterichsboden. 

Our first view of the massive new dam at Grimsel Hospiz. (There is another dam on the left, which is the road to the Hospiz). This new dam has been under construction since 2019.

VIDEO:

Approaching the Grimsel Dam and Hospiz by bus

As the bus heads up toward the Grimsel Hospiz along the second dam, another view northwards past Lake Räterichsboden down the Hasli Valley. 

Many people got off the bus here at the Grimsel Hospiz at about 10:15. (The bus continues over the Grimsel Pass, then Nufenen Pass, Gotthard Pass and Susten Pass back to Meiringen on the Four-Passes Tour). 

Here you can see that instead of removing the old, 90-year-old dam--which badly required restoration--it was decided to build a new dam in front of the old one. This is totally interesting for us, because we have walked over the old dam twice in the past (in 2016 when we walked to the back of the lake, and in 2018 when we walked along the old mule trail down to Lake Räterichsboden and further down the valley. Those latter photos are HERE). 

We walked for a short distance toward the viewing platform for a better look westward along the lake. In the background is Mount Finsteraarhorn, the tallest peak in the Bernese Oberland. Back in 2016, we crossed the dam and walked along the north side of the lake to overnight in the Swiss Alpine Hostel at the back. One of my favourite hikes. 

There is another cable car here, operated by the power company, which you can ride for 30 minutes to another high alpine lake called the Oberaarsee. We had considered that for this day's excursion, but decided for a hike over the pass instead. 

A plan for another day: Riding the Oberaarbahn cable-way

A close-up look toward the back of Lake Grimsel (Grimselsee). In August 2016 we walked to the back of that lake, where we had to climb over a section of the Oberaar Glacier before reaching the Alpine Hostel where we spent one night before heading back the same way the next day (no photos here). 

PART II: Hike from the Grimsel Hospiz to the Grimsel Pass

According to the trail markers, it should take an hour and 10 minutes to the pass, but it was much longer, even by normal standards! It was not a difficult hike, though. After following the lakeshore, the actual ascent to the pass was only 200 meters. 

To the south we can already see the Grimsel Pass, where we are now headed. First we have to walk over the road dam, then around the lake to the first curve in the road we can see on the right, before walking along a mountain trail. The walking trail is below the road along the lake, but as it turns out, we could not cross the waterfall, and had to detour onto the busy road. 

According to the trail signs here, it should only take an hour and 10 minutes to reach the pass from here at the Grimsel Hospiz Hotel. We started here at 10:35, and only got to the pass at 12:20! That's because of the detour we had to make along the busy road, and not because it was particularly strenuous. 

From here we can see more of the face of the new dam, which is being completed this year, but is still off limits to walk across. For now, anyone who wants to walk to the back of the lake as we did in 2016 has to start way down below at the level of the base of the dam. Also, there is apparently another operating cable car here, accessing the Grimsel Hospiz from a car park below. 

This is the vehicle road which accesses the hotel and power plant (you can join tours to view it). The road passes along the dam on the eastern side of the lake. 

View to the Grimsel Pass Road below the two dams. 

It's windy and cold here, so I'm glad I brought a jacket and wore pants? The old road here over the dam is paved with cobblestones. 

From a viewing spot we can look back along the eastern dam, the road which goes up to the Grimsel Hospiz and hydro-electric power station and the new dam. 

And now the final look northwards toward the Räterichsbodensee before heading southward toward the Grimsel Pass. 

Before starting on the uphill section, we walk for two kilometers along a mountain trail just below the busy road. It's only the noise of the accelerating motorcycles which is bothersome. 

The entire walk we did this day along Trail no.40: "Via Sbrinz" (which is also called the "Old Grimsel Road") is about 13 km, a 4-hour hike, first ascending to the Grimsel Pass from the site of the Grimsel Hospiz, and then descending to the train station in Obergesteln in the upper Goms region. The mountain range crossed by the pass is the border between Canton Bern to the north and Canton Wallis to the south. 

A description of the themed trail: "Via Sbrinz", which in total is a 115-km trail starting in Stansstad on Lake Luzern, and ending in Italy. 

View of the beautiful glacier lake as we walk along the trail at lake level. 

The lakeside trail is a better option than having to walk along the busy road!

We then got to the large waterfall which we had seen from the Hospiz. The water runs under the road here, but the water flow is very strong. 

The walking trail continues on the other side of the waterfall toward the first curve of the road, but we studied this for a while and decided that the flow of water was too strong for us to cross, so we had to backtrack for a bit to a road access (fortunately not too far) and had to continue along the busy road to to first hairpin turn. 

Having survived the trek along the busy road, we got to the mountain trail here at 11:40, with a view of the Grimsel Hospiz, the power plant, and the two dams to the north. 

We had a good laugh here: At the east end of the dam (where it joins the main road), the markers had listed the hike to the pass at 50 minutes. We had now walked for 45 minutes (including the detour at the waterfall) and this sign now lists the rest of the hike at 40 minutes!

Oh well, we had lots of time, and the 40-minute hike to the pass was on a nice trail, not too steep, with lots of fantastic views down to Lake Grimselsee. 

Lots of views down to the lake, the dam, and the Hasli Valley to the north as we get closer to the pass.

And there it is again, the Oberaar cable-car...

We got to the Grimsel Pass at 12:20, so an hour and 40 minutes since starting at the Grimsel Hospiz below! (The sign said 1:10!!). On this sign now it shows another 2 hours and 20 minutes to Obergesteln along the "Old Grimsel Road". 

All of a sudden a rescue helicopter appeared, just like the one we had seen on our hike the day before. We watched it fly over and then land, but were not able to see what kind of rescue might have been necessary. 

Watching the Swiss Rega Rescue helicopter land below us on the Grimsel Pass Road. 

VIDEO:

The Swiss Rega helicopter comes in for a landing

Here at the Grimsel Pass are two restaurants and lots of parking spots. There were very many motorcycles, because all of the Swiss mountain passes are an attraction for the motorcyclists. The road here forms the border of Canton Bern and Canton Wallis, i.e. the lake is in Canton Wallis.

A look southward now to the mountains of the Goms Valley. The lake is called "Totensee" (Lake of the Dead?) and is actually in Canton Wallis, whereas I am standing on the border of the two Cantons Bern and Wallis to take this photo.  

Turning back now toward the west side of the lake to continue on our hike, we pass the other restaurant here at the pass. 

Our trail continues around the west side of Lake Totensee. 

A look back at the buildings up at the Grimsel Pass. As it is now 12:45 we looked for a place to sit and eat our sandwiches, but it was too cold and windy, so we continued on. 

At the eastern end of the lake is a dam, and past the dam we can see the Furka Pass road, with the famous Belvedère hotel in one of the hairpin turns. The Rhone Glacier, not visible from here, used to fill up the whole gravely basin to the left of the zigzag road, and flowed down into the valley about 150 years ago. 

A final look northwards now across the Totensee, before we start on the long descent. 

PART III: Descent from Grimsel Pass to the upper Goms Valley

This trail is called the Old Grimsel Road and was an important trade route from Italy to Switzerland, used for hundreds of years. Most of the walk down was on a cobblestoned trail, which was the common way to build the mule tracks. The new, paved Grimsel Pass Road was constructed from 1891-95, and the old mule trail was then no longer used. 

As we start heading south, we get an even better view of the Furka Pass Road, the basin of the Rhône Glacier, and the summit of Mt.Galenstock, which looms over the glacier (still not visible from here). 

Our trail passes by a cluster of smaller alpine lakes

Back in September 2021, we had walked from the Furka Pass to that place at the arrow, which we can see now from this side. From there we had some fantastic views of the Grimsel Pass, and the Rhône Glacier. (From there we had walked down to the town of Oberwald. Those photos are HERE).  

Walking down the old Grimsel Road. We can now see the upper part of the Rhône Glacier. 

Many small alpine lakes up here. 

Far to the southwest we can see the snow-covered peaks of the Mischabel group of mountains in Canton Wallis, near Visp and the Matter and Saas Valleys. 

Walking along the old mule trail which was the main route over the Grimsel Pass hundreds of years ago. It's now 1:30 p.m. 

Down below we can see the houses of Oberwald, and two beautiful side valleys. 

Above me here is a peak called the Sidelhorn, which we summitted in September 2019, on a rather tough climb starting at the Grimsel Pass and ending near the Grimsel Hospiz, where we started this day. 

Large portions of this old Grimsel Road (and the Via Sbrinz Trail, also on the north side of the Grimsel Hospiz) are paved with cobblestones like this, to make it easier for the pack horses and mules to travel on over the hundreds of years that this was an important trade route from Italy. 

The whole mountainside here was coloured pink with heather. 

Trail no.40 is the Via Sbrinz Trail, "Hiking on old Mule Trails" (also www.sbrinz-route.ch) 

We have finally reached the tree-liine!

Close-up look at Mt.Galenstock

Still some fireweed adding colour on the hillsides. 

Down below is the town of Oberwald/Unterwassern, the final community in the Goms valley before the Furka Base Tunnel. (And from here the road also goes up to Gütsch, Grimsel Pass and Furka Pass in the summer months). 

Also below, further down the valley from Oberwald, is the town of Obergesteln, which is the goal of our hike. 

A close-up look at the village of Obergesteln. From here we still have about 50 minutes to walk down to the train station there. 

Just leaving the train station in Obergesteln is the 14:33 train to Andermatt. Our plan is to take the next one at 15:33, which gives us only about 10 minutes extra as we still have 50 minutes to walk. (This is the same line traveled by the Glacier Express Train). 

Cutting it close like usual! It's now 3 p.m., and the sign says 30 minutes to Obergesteln, and the train is supposed to get there at 15:33!!!! (If we miss that train, we have to sit around for another hour, which we don't really like to do). 

We walked the last stretch quite quickly!

Our trail passes through this large "pipe"

Down at valley bottom now, we get this nice view down the Rotten Valley toward the Mischabel mountains. (The Rhône River, which flows out of the Rhône Glacier, is known as the Rotten River here). 

The little village on a hill in the center of town. We figured we didn't have enough time to take a detour there. 

Description of the Sbrinz Route which is a trail that follows ancient mule trails. There seem to be two sections of the northern part of the trail, one of them going up another valley via Lungern and the Brünig Pass. 

Always happy to freshen up at the town fountain!

There were several rows of wooden Valais buildings here! This is the final short stretch to the train station. We got to the platform at 3:25 p.m., and the train was a few minutes late, so in the end we would have had enough time to visit the town church!

Our train arrives at 15:37 for the trip through the Furka Base Tunnel to Andermatt via the always lovely Urseren Valley. 

What our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. The Grimsel Road was built in 1891-95. Until then, the "road" over the pass was the Old Grimsel Road which is the one we followed down to Obergesteln.  

PART IV:  Train back to Andermatt

(It's always a very pretty train ride through the Urseren Valley).

Before heading into the 15.38-km long Furka Base Tunnel, the train passes via the Rotten River. The bridge is part of the walking trail which comes down from the Furka Pass. 

On the north side of the Furka Base Tunnel in Realp, the car transport train gets ready to head into the tunnel to Oberwald. This is the only way to travel to the Goms region in winter when the Furka Pass road is closed. 

The mountains on the north side of the Urseren Valley. We did a hike high up there in September of 2014. 

Then the train passes Zumdorf, considered the smallest village in Switzerland (a church, a restaurant and a couple of residences). We walked the valley bottom trail from Realp to Hospental in August 2013, and stopped here for lunch!

The river here is called the Furka-Reuss River. 

These older wagons where you can open the windows are so much better than the panorama wagons of the Glacier Express Trains, which have become very popular with foreign tourists. 

Heading toward Hospental down the Urseren Valley. 

Up ahead you can see the tower ruins and the bell tower of the church in Hospental. 

The little red train crosses a viaduct. (I was riding in a second-class wagon with only a half-dozen other people and could move from side-to-side wherever the view was best!)

At Hospental is a lovely stone bridge over the Furka-Reuss river. 

Up ahead is the town of Andermatt, where we had a 20-minute wait for our transfer to Göschenen. From here, the Gotthard Matterhorn line continues in a zigzag path up the Oberalp Pass. 

And from Andermatt, a short train ride down the Schöllenen Gorge to Göschenen (where we once again changed to the train toward home). 

These are all the hikes we have done in the region of the Grimsel and Furka Passes and the upper part of the Goms Region (i.e. Rotten Valley). 

Region of the Grimsel Pass within Switzerland.