Walking down the Via Calanca Trail from Rossa to Buseno

Saturday August 23, 2025 -- There are some nice days forecast for the coming week, but on this Saturday, the weather forecast was really only good for the south once again. So that's where we headed, to walk down the Calanca Valley, which is something which we have wanted to do for a while now.

The Calanca Valley, a lesser-known parallel valley to the Leventina Valley of Canton Ticino, is actually in Canton Graubünden, but along with the Mesolcina, the Poschiavo, and the Bergell Valleys more related to the Italian regions of Switzerland. It is a long and narrow valley bordered by very steep mountains that receives little sunshine in the fall and winter months, so this would still be a good time to walk the valley.

As there are only a few buses that run in and out of the valley, we would have too little time or too long for the 3½ hour hike we had originally mapped out. We were planning to start at 9:30 a.m. at Rossa at the furthest back in the valley that the bus runs to, and catch a bus in Buseno (the furthest you can walk on hiking trails near the entrance of the valley) at 4:30 p.m., which might mean taking some long rests.....

As it turned out, the valley was still deep in the shadow of the mountains when we got to Rossa at 9:30, so we changed plans and walked up higher to a little mountain chapel to await the sun reaching the valley, which was a detour of an hour already. And then we spent a lot of time looking at all the pretty buildings in the small villages along the way, so that in the end (even with seven hours for this 17-km walk) we just made it to the end bus stop with 8 minutes to spare!

Leaving home at about 6:30, we were headed up the Calanca Valley by 9 a.m. The bus ride to the final stop at the back of the valley in the village of Rossa takes 35 minutes. 

Here we are passing the mountain village of Buseno, which is the last village we passed through on our walk down the valley (and we caught the bus down here on the main road to get back out of the valley at about 4 p.m., crossing that bridge bottom right)

On the way up the valley, I sat at the front of the bus next to the driver, so I could see all the places we were going to walk through later! This corner in a village called Bodio is a detour we then took off the main trail of have a closer look at the little chapel. 

We got to the end of the bus line in Rossa by 9:30, but the valley was still in dark shadow of the steep mountains and it was quite cold. I didn't want to start the walk down the valley yet, so Urs suggested heading up-valley a bit, to a chapel on a higher promontory which we had seen last time we were here (June 2020). These walled terraces are fascinating. 

Heading up to that little painted chapel up there. 

We keep checking the view down the valley past the village of Rossa, to see if the sun has come past the eastern mountains yet 

Our goal is that little chapel up there. It took us 15 minutes to walk up here from the bus stop in Rossa. The exterior painting on the chapel is rather unusual. 

The little chapel is called Calvario. It is very run down, with walls and altar crumbling, but still some nice frescoes. Most of the lovely chapels we visit along our hikes were probably once in this condition before extensive restoration work. This one would probably look great after renovations as well, which are unfortunately very costly. 

At 10 o'clock, Rossa is now in full sunshine! The next town down valley (Augio) is still in shadow, but we figured if we head down now, it will be sunny by the time we get there. 

Heading down back to Rossa.

Close-up of the church in Rossa. We passed via the church when we were here in 2020. 

The village of Rossa is on the other side of the Calancasca River from the hiking trail. We didn't make a detour into the village this time, as we had a nice stroll through here on the June 2020 excursion. 

Starting in Rossa at the last bus stop at the back of the Calanca Valley at 9:30 a.m., we first walked northwards for the 30-minute detour to the Calvario Chapel, then started off down the valley, arriving in Buseno at 3:30 p.m., and at the bus stop for the 15:56 bus back out of the valley. Pure walking time is almost five hours, and we took a little over 6 hours to complete the walk. 17 kilometers is a very long walk for us, but we weren't tired at all! This hike is a trail called "Via Calanca", themed trail no. 737.

Here in Rossa is another of these chapels with an unusually-painted exterior! We did have a quick look inside. Far in the back, in the circle, is the little chapel we first hiked to before returning here to Rossa. 

Now headed down the valley along the main road, we pass attractive houses and villages. 

Heading down the Via Calanca Trail along the main road toward the next village of Augio. Here you can see how very steep and high the mountains are!

The next hamlet south of Rossa is called Pighè, and even here is a little chapel!

A quick look inside this little chapel... 

Then we reach the village of Augio, which we also visited once before on the June 2020 excursion (we had actually caught the bus back home from here, as the trip didn't work out as planned). 

Walking through Augio

That is a very big building for a small village!

Now that's a tiny house!

The Augio village church (a rather large building for such a small village) even had its doors open to welcome us in! The building dates from 1784, replacing a previous chapel from 1683. 

This church (Santi Giuseppe e Antonio da Padova), is one of the most impressive buildings in the valley.  

Lots of nice details in the church in Augio. The baptismal fountain and those stone steps look very old. 

More  nice houses

These painted rocks are on display in front of the Town Hall, obviously depicting the little mountain chapel we had visited (on the right). We didn't see the chapel on the left, and assume it is further back in the valley. 

A look back now at the town hall and bell tower of the church in Augio as we continue now down the valley. 

We took a detour to have a closer look at the waterfall, and a view of the village of Augio from the east side. Interesting note: Augio is listed in the "Federal Inventory of Swiss Heritage Sites of National Importance". 

On the east side of the valley across from Augio is this beautiful waterfall called "Cascata del Frott", which drops over 150 meters. (The upper part drops 70 meters). 

We crossed the Calancasca River several times. This crossing is just north of the next village called Santa Domenica, where we had planned a detour from the hiking trail to the road to see another church there. 

Unfortunately, this large church in Santa Domenica was locked, so we could not see the inside.

Across the road from the church was a house with painted frescoes and a date of 1767 inscribed on the frame. 

Back on the walking trail below the vehicle road and next to the river is another wayside chapel. It is called Capella da Salan, and was locked. We could look into the windows, though, which were covered by a wire grill. 

Another bridge to cross back to the left side of the river.

Our trail follows the Calancasca River. It was lovely weather for this walk. Once the sun came out it got warm, and then there was always a cool breeze blowing. This beautiful plain is called "Pian di Alne" and is the largest flood-plain along the Calancasca. 

Up ahead we can see the bell tower of the church in the next village called Cauco, a village where we ended a really nice hike back in November 2017. But at that time the village was all in shadow by the time we descended from the mountains, and so we were looking forward to doing a round tour walk through it in daylight. 

Next to the village church was a small building that might have once been an ossuary (or a type of mortuary) with some nice fresco paintings. 

This attractive church in Cauco is called "Chiesa Di Sant'Antonio Abate", but it was unfortunately locked. Information from the Internet states: "The Parish Church of Sant'Antonio was built in 1497. Over the years, its appearance has changed radically; the nave was enlarged and a chapel was built in the northern part of the structure. Finally, in 1623, a bell tower was added. In 1762, a painted ceiling adorned the interior, which was subsequently modified in 1988."   

Some nice buildings right across from the main square in front of the church in Cauco. 

Crossing the river from Cauco, we look back at the village. It is now 12:30 and we are headed to the next village of Bodio, where we had passed through earlier with the bus, and had seen the pretty painted chapel next to the road. 

It's not just the chapels which have fresco paintings, but many private homes display them as well. 

And here is that curve in the road where the bus passed through earlier in the morning!

This cute little building is called "Oratorio della Madonna di Loreto".   

Back to the left side of the river again, to go to the next village called Selma!

A look up the valley as we cross the Calancasca River. 

When we were in the village of Bodio, we had seen (and heard) a rescue helicopter hovering for a very long time across from a vertical cliff. (Many of the village locals were also watching). As we got closer, we could see someone being lowered from the helicopter into the forest. We never did find out what the emergency might have been. 

Although the official walking trail follows the river, we preferred this road through the pastures past the many little barns, as we would enter Selma from further up. All the while we watched the rescue helicopter (REGA) descend and land on the pasture. 

A local comes to talk to the pilot after the helicopter lands. 

A look up the valley toward Cauco, as we reach the outskirts of Selma. 

We decided to walk up into the village toward the main parish church. On the way, we pass another cute little roadside chapel, which actually had doors that were not locked!

The parish church of Saints James and Peter (Santi Giacomo e Pietro), consecrated in 1582, was destroyed by an avalanche and then rebuilt between 1662 and 1667. 

Next to the church was this community fountain!

The interior of the parish church in Selma. 

The interior of the parish church in Selma. 

The interior of the parish church in Selma. I had going up onto the balcony, but there were only a few weird benches up there. No organ.  

Heading back down toward the river to continue on the Via Calanca trail. (Down below at the main road is the valley station of the Landarenca cable-way up the west flank of the valley , which is where we started our November 2017 hiking excursion.)

The next section of the trail between Selma and the next village of Arvigo was an hour through the forest on an interesting and pleasant trail winding along the river. 

An interesting and pleasant trail. 

These cliffs were attractive for climbers. 

We enjoyed the sound of the water as we walked along the trail. On the opposite side, the post bus is just heading out of the valley. 

There were a few such bridges along the way. 

Several waterfalls in this narrow section of the valley. The water is clear and blue just like in the Verzasca Valley. 

A piece of the mountain came down here!

A lovely moss-covered section... 

At 2:15 p.m. we got the first look at the church on the hill above the village of Arvigo, which is where we descended from Landarenca on that November 2017 hike in the hills here. The church is called San Lorenzo, and the tower is apparently five storeys high!

Across the river is the valley road and the village of Arvigo. 

On the left side of the river, as we reach the old part of Arvigo, is a row of interesting buildings!

We managed (with difficulty) to open the door on the little pink church, to see the interesting interior. 

Crossing the Roman bridge to the main road in Arvigo. 

From the main road, we have a nice view of the Roman bridge and the line of houses across the river, with its beautiful clear blue water. (Near here is the base station of the Arvigo-Braggio cable car up to the east mountain flank. We have ridden this cable-car twice, the second time being a walk out of this same valley but much higher up --> photos are HERE)

VIDEO:

Roman Bridge over Calancasca River

Old part of Arvigo Village

Cute house at the south end of Arvigo. 

A look behind us as we leave Arvigo. For the next 50 minutes (3½ kilometers), we had the more boring part of the trail as we had to follow the main road before heading up through the forest to the final village of Buseno. This part of the trail passes by a large quarry where the famous Calanca Gneiss stone is mined. 

A small bridge crosses the river here, which I only crossed to the center to get this view up the beautiful Calanca Valley. Our trail continues southward next to the road. 

At 2:50 p.m. we were back on the mountain trail with this view further down the valley. You can just make out the village of Buseno which we will walk through before descending to the bus stop on the road below. Our bus comes at 15:56, and the walk there takes at least 50 minutes, so we have to hurry again!

Most of the trail to Buseno was a nice forest trail, but this stretch over the rock slide was a bit tricky to navigate and took longer than expected. 

We had to cross here carefully, as some of the rocks were loose!

Down below we can make out the spot where we need to catch the bus in about 35 minutes!

This stretch of trail goes fast!

We got to Buseno at 3:30 p.m. but didn't hang around, as there was some sort of flea market going on. Also, we walked around this village in November 2021, when we started a hike up the mountain from here. We had another 20 minutes to get down to the bus stop. 

A glimpse of Lake Buseno as we head down to the main road. 

Hurrying down the mountain to make sure we catch the bus. If we miss this one, we have to wait two hours for the next bus!

We made it with eight minutes to spare! In the back you can see the village of Buseno, which we passed through at the end of this hike. 

View toward the Mesolcina Valley as our bus heads back out of the Calanca Valley. 

The blue trail is the one we did this day from Rossa to Buseno. In other years we have done mountain walks from Buseno into the Mesolcina Valley, from Arvigo cable-car to Santa Maria, from Landarenca cable-car to Arvigo then cable-car up and to Cauco in one excursion.