December 25, 2024

Short Walk on the Historical Trail in the Southern part of Blenio Valley

Wednesday December 25, 2024 -- Even though it was a spectacular cloud-free day in the north, we were lured by a temperature forecast of about 14ºC in Biasca south of the Alps (compared to minus temperatures in the north) and not yet ready for those cold temperatures, we headed south again. (In retrospect, it wasn't nearly as warm as that! Maybe maximum 8ºC)

The plan was for a short walk in the Blenio Valley (at the junction of the Leventina Valley at Biasca) with a walk along the Lower Historical Trail from Ludiano to Biasca via Malvaglia. The trail is mostly on paved roads, but really not an issue in winter as long as we have sunshine. Of the originally-planned 11 kilometers, we only completed 7 km, which was fine, as the final four kilometers to Biasca were already in the shadow of the steep mountains by 2:30 p.m., and along a long straight stretch of road next to the highway and in the city.

But the 7 km stretch we did on the south end of the Blenio Valley offered us enough sunshine for the four hours we spent there. Highlight of the walk was, of course the fabulous Romanesque church in Malvaglia. Interestingly enough, we passed directly by way of this beautiful church in May 2017 when we did a hike out of the Malvaglia Valley, but didn't have a look inside. Probably because we had just come down from a 20-km walk, and just really wanted to get on the bus home!

Trains to Bellinzona and Biasca, then a bus into the Blenio Valley. We got off the bus here at Motto Blenio at 11:23 after a 2¼-hour trip from home. Our first stop is to check if the Oratorio was unlocked, which we pretty well knew it would NOT be. Because the last time we were here, we had to call a local man to meet us there with the key. At that time (April 2022, Photos HERE), the interior of the church was being restored, and peeking through the window, it looked like they hadn't made much progress. 

Starting on our walk down the valley from the most southern point we reached on that April 2022 walk, we passed by the "Chiesa di San Pietro" which Signor Oliva also took us to at the time (he had keys to both churches). This Romanesque church was built in the 13th Century. 

Reading up on the historical information available to us on the placards next to all the interesting things there are to see in this valley. 

This church was locked too, and as it was Christmas Day, we were not going to call anyone to come show us the buildings, as we'd already seen the inside of both

Looking past the cemetery, we are now headed down the road in the middle of this wide plain, to the village of Ludiano (at the arrow). 

A look up the Blenio valley as we now head south from Motto to Ludiano. There was a bit of a cold wind blowing, which was unexpected. And it didn't feel like the 14ºC weather forecast the day before. In fact, it felt as cold as it was when we left home!

A very short walk for us, less than two hours even. And usually we do about 10 kilometers. But the main point of this day was to enjoy some warm winter weather without snow. We started in Motto at 11:23, and the shadows from the west were already moving in. By the time we got to the Loderio bus stop at 2:38 p.m., it was also in shadow there. 

On a different hike we did in this valley in March of 2023, when we had gone to see the ruins of the Seravalle Castle just south of here, we had taken a detour to this church in Ludiano (San Secondo), which at the time was also locked. So we had no great hopes for this one this time.... but the door was not locked! 

Already mentioned in 1293, the church of San Secondo is an imposing Baroque style building built in the 18th century (1780)


The artwork was spectacular! We were so glad we were able to get to look at the inside this time!

The back part of the church, where we entered.

Details of the Church of San Secondo. There were several side altars. The neoclassical-style façade is decorated with stucco, with two niches with modern statues of Saint Peter and Saint Secondo. 

A look back at the San Secondo Church as we continue southward through Ludiano. 

There were some fancy villas in Ludiano. The pig on the pedestal was a hoot! Usually, you might expect a stone lion... 

At this point is where we headed down to the Seravalle Castle Ruins in March of 2023 (on the west side of the valley), and this time we headed down to the town of Malvaglia on the left. This vineyard is unusual: Large boulders use up valuable land, so the farmer has found some unusual way to set up the vines. 

A vineyard full of huge boulders, and vines planted in every possible place!

Heading down through the vineyards toward the Brenno River. 

Crossing the Brenno River to the village of Rongie on the east side of the valley. Our original plan was to walk right to the town of Biasca, which is at the junction of this valley and the Leventina, but we didn't make it that far. 

We are walking along the "Sentiero Bassa" (Low Road) down the Blenio Valley. We are headed to the church in Malvaglia, and our plan was to walk to Biasca, but we only made it to Loderio Ponte, another 1½ hours from here.  

Walking down the main street of Rongie

The next historical site is the center of Rongie, including the church of St. Antonio Abate, which was originally mentioned in the 15th Century, but received major renovation in the 19th Century.

Sunshine and palm trees. 

Various houses in Rongie

Passing over the old bridge over the Orino River, which flows down the eastern mountains through the Malvaglia Valley, and empties into the Brenno River. The view is to the main vehicle road to the west. 

The bridge across the Orino River is another historical site of note: The bridge was built before 1800, and later widened for Post Coaches. It was a replacement for an older bridge built in 1600, higher up in the gorge. We have been in the Malvaglia Valley twice, having walked to the back and then out via Ponte Lau and Ponte Canè in May of 2017 (photos HERE). 

Across the valley we can see the ruins of the Seravalle Castle, which we explored in March 2023

Now we can see the bell tower of the church in Malvaglia

An old Walser-Style house. 

Here we are at the Chiesa San Martino in Malvaglia. The Romanesque tower and church date back to the 12th Century. It's 1 p.m., and before even having a look inside the church, we need to have our picnic lunch!

A good place on a dry wall inside the church grounds.... for our picnic lunch. 

A very old side-building on the church grounds. 

The paintings on the front face of the church include St. Christopher and St.Martin and were painted in 1550. This was not the door to enter the church, that was on the south side! 

Urs could barely fit through the door we had to use to enter the church!

You can definitely tell from the inside that this church dates from the Romanesque era. Restorations were done between 1996 and 1998.

Beautifully-painted walls in the choir area behind the main altar

Side altars, and a really old balcony with a unique organ. 

The balcony's wooden floor was also fully painted underneath. 

Various details such as the baptismal font, wooden sculpted stations of the cross, and frescoes dating from 1485 (The Last Supper, bottom right) and from 1650 (possibly the one of St.Martin, bottom left). 

Another side altar, and on the upper left are frescoes depicting the life of Christ, done in the early 16th Century. 

Before heading out on the train again, a quick look into the ossuary. Not sure how old this building is, but the frescoes inside look ancient. 

A look back at the St.Martin's church and up the Blenio Valley. It was here where we ended our May 2017 hike, but we did not go into the church at the time. (Having hiked for 20 km at the time, we probably just wanted to get on the bus!)

Another look up the Blenio Valley as we cross the main road and head into a large forested area called the Legiüna. 

Another side river which flows into the Brenno

There wasn't much of a trail here, and we just kind of made our way in the direction of the river and the road. This sand might have once been washed up from the river, maybe?

Next to the Brenno River at 2:30 p.m.  

A final look up the Blenio Valley as we reach the bus stop at the Ponte Loderio, which is where we decided to end our hike after just over 7 kilometers of walking. 

We got to the bus stop at 14:38, as the sun was just setting behind the mountains across from Biasca. Two minutes later, it was gone. Continuing on to Biasca would mean walking another 45 minutes along a main road in shadow. So we caught the 14:41 bus for the 2-hour trip home, having gotten here with good timing. 

What our 7-km hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps, starting near Ludiano and passing through Malvaglia to the bus stop at the bridge over the Brenno River. 

All the hikes we have done here in the southern part of the Blenio Valley

Location of the southern part of the Blenio Valley within Switzerland. 

Traveling by train back up along Lake Zug at 16:40, with Mt.Pilatus in the background. 

This photo was taken at 10 a.m. as we were headed south along Lake Uri toward the Gotthard Base Tunnel. In retrospect, there would have been many nice hikes we could have done north of the Alps this day, instead of escaping to the "warmer" south. But we weren't ready for the cold, and we did not anticipate that this was the only fog-free day for the next week. 



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