June 13, 2024

WALSA-Weg from Tannenbodenalp on Mt.Flumserberg to Murg on Lake Walensee

Thursday June 13, 2024 -- As there was some partially nice weather in the forecast, and I still wanted to do some walking, I chose to travel to the Eastern part of the country to walk through the Tamina Gorge, and visit the artwork currently being displayed in the city of Bad Ragaz (Europe's largest outdoor sculpture exhibition, taking place every three years).

As usual, the weather didn't play along, and the skies were very overcast by the time I got to Bad Ragaz at about 9:30 a.m. (I was actually on the way too early, as the skies cleared here in the afternoon). So I decided to return to the area of Lake Walensee, where the clouds seemed to be clearning on the flanks of Mount Flumserberg, where there was another trail I had long wanted to walk down, i.e. starting at the alpine recreational village called Tannenboden, and walking along the regional trail called the "Walsaweg" about 1000 meters downhill to Murg on the lakeshore below. This would have been a detour of about 30 minutes only. 

After getting on the wrong train in Bad Ragaz, though, and then doubling back, I still managed to get to Tannenboden Alp not much later than originally planned, and by about 10:30 a.m. the skies started to clear. I had plenty of sunshine for the four hours I was walking here, and the temperatures were not too hot, which was a definite benefit for the second half (about 4 km of the 10-km hike) as that part was all on a paved road. But especially the first section, a 550-meter steep descent through sun-dappled forests intersperced with meadows was a pleasure to walk, as I was accompanied by the sound of cow-bells, a favourite when walking in the Swiss mountains. 

After heading further south, then changing my mind, then taking the wrong train, I finally made it back to Unterterzen on Lake Walensee at 10:15, to ride the cable-car up to Tannenboden Alp, about a 15-minute ride. 

The cable-way has a half-way stop in Oberterzen, the village below, which I walked through later. On the north side of the lake are the Churfirsten mountains. 

The final steep section from Oberterzen to Tannenbodenalp station. 

My original plan was to start the hike on Trail no.68 "WALSA-weg" at the Flumserberg bus stop (far right on this map), but as I got on the wrong train in Bad Ragaz, I missed the bus connection. The other way to get up there is by cable-car from Unterterzen, so I changed plans and rode the cable-car to the top, and walked down from there instead. I spent 4 hours on this 3-hour hike. 

Description of the themed trail called "WALSA-weg"


Starting on my hike at 10:40, as the Flumserberg gondolas cross above me. 

Starting off on the trail just below the Tannenbodenalp summit station of the cable-way

After a 10-minute descent, I come to the first cow pasture! All the while I had been hearing the cow bells, which is a lovely way to hike in the mountains here. 

VIDEO:
Hiking to the sound of the cow bells!
Also, they are all over blocking the trail... 

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Of course the cows are standing on the hiking trail (and watching me closely) so I made a detour around this one. Some way down the hillside I saw a  particularly "angry" looking cow, so I made my way quickly to the pasture fence at the edge of the forest. 

I heard the bells as the cows hurried up the hillside, but I didn't look behind me until I had crossed the pasture fence. That's the mean-looking lady who had watched me from down below. She might be the boss of the herd. She sure looks older and different than the others. 

Here are cows in another pasture as I continue down the forest trail. 

Much of my descent for the first 500 meters downhill was like this. 

Continuing down the hillside

A small clearing with a fence where I had the opportunity for a self-timed photo. 

Final stretch before joining the official "WALSA-Weg" (the road down below) where I had originally planned to walk. 

Some little ones hiding in the tall grass

It took me about 45 minutes to descend the first 350 meters from Tannenbodenalp. Now I have joined Trail no.68 "WALSA-Weg" for the rest of the walk to Murg. First I reached Oberterzen, and Murg was another 90 minutes from there. 

Another steep section through for forest goes along a ravine with several waterfalls. 

Down at the level section below the waterfalls. 

Here's a nice clearing with some views of the Churfirsten mountains and Lake Walensee. 

Crossing a clearing high above Lake Walensee

At this point, the trail continues steep downhill again, but the sign informing of a view-point just three minutes uphill means I have to take that detour first. 

I'm so glad I took the detour to the view-point! There were a couple of benches up here and an outdoor grill, and this fantastic view westward along Lake Walensee. 

Down below on this side are the communities of Oberterzen and Quarten which I passed through before reaching the train station in Murg. Across the lake is a small village called Quinten, which is accessible only on foot from both ends of the lake, or by boat from Murg. We have been there often. 

Once I reached Oberterzen, the going was fairly level or always slightly downhill, with the wonderful Churfirsten Range to the north (on my right). Unfortunately, the clouds covered the peaks all day. 

In Oberterzen is the mid-station of the Flumserberg gondola, which basically does a right-hand turn here after coming up from lake level in Unterterzen.

(See that green clearing directly across the lake, just below the peaks? We did quite a memorable 2-day hike up there back in August 2021. )

As I pass beneath the gondolas, I look up to where the cable-way reaches Tannenbodenalp

Passing by the mid-station at Oberterzen. You can also see the gondolas coming up from Unterterzen below. 

Passing through the village of Oberterzen. 

It's 1 p.m. now in Oberterzen, with 40 minutes to go to Quarten along the WALSA-Trail (and another 40 minutes from there to Murg, according to my calculations). The best connection home from Murg is always at 28 past the hour (1¾ hours to get back home). Can I make it to Murg for the 2:28 bus to Walenstadt? It will mean walking at a fast pace.... 

But first I sat here for a few minutes to eat my lunch. AFTER that, I walked quickly!

This is a very cool flower; I have never seen something like that before... 

Usually the more modern churches don't hold a lot of interest for us, but I didn't have time to check this one out anyway. (This is in Oberterzen)

Everywhere the roses are blooming

I'm not a flower expert, so I usually do an Internet search. These pretty flowers are apparently called "Mallow" or "Hollyhock". 

Descending the mountain further, here is a look at the gondolas ascending from Unterterzen, and continuing on at a right angle from the Oberterzen middle station to Tannenbodenalp. 

For a while the road was like this.... 

Always some cute details to observe along the way. People love to decorate their houses!

Another waterfall. There is lots of water coming down all waterfalls and streams right now, due to all the rain we have been having!

VIDEO:
The sound of rushing water is a favourite of mine.


The nicer trail was finished about here, leaving me with basically only paved road for the final 4-km (one hour) to Murg. Luckily it was not a very hot day. In fact, it wasn't a particularly annoying last hour at all. 

A look behind me at a very special mountain (an extension of the Churfirsten Range): This is Mount Sichelkamm, and it exhibits a 500-meter large fold created by the shifting of the Earth's crust several million years ago. 

I am just passing the local church in Quarten, the next community I passed through. (I actually made it here in 35 minutes, so still in good time for the 2:30 bus in Murg!). 

The clouds are just starting to lift a bit from the Churfirsten peaks. 

Crows (or ravens?) want to enjoy some sweet fruit as well!

This is an interesting tableau of cows. 

Now a look behind me past the roof-tops of Quarten

The geranium window-boxes make all the difference... 

And so many people have their very own rose gardens!

Across the lake now you can see the village of Quinten, accessible only on foot or by boat. 

A zoomed view of the village of Quinten. The mediterranean microclimate here makes it ideal for growing grapes and kiwis. 

Last descent to Murg. Finally getting a glimpse of some of the peaks. On the far right is a high plateau called Palfries, where we have been twice. It is very pretty up there. 

Crossing the Murgbach river. It has its source in the Murg Valley above the Murg Lakes, where we did a fantastic hike in July 2019.  Over 15,000 years the river has carved out a steep canyon here (a small path takes you to glacier pits) and has carried so much alluvial deposits, thus forming the delta into Lake Walensee, where the town of Murg is built. 

Information about the creation of the Murg canyon and the delta where the city is now built. Much detritus was carried by the river down to the lake over thousands of years, creating the delta. In the 1950's and 1960's, material from construction of nearby tunnels was added to increase the size of the delta by 2-3 hectares. 


Main street in Murg. (Side note: I actually had thought I was taking a train here, and had already headed through the underpass to the platform when I fortunately checked the schedule again online and saw I needed to find the bus station on the main road! Fortunately I made it here with 10 minutes to spare, so was able to correct the error in time! It would have been two public transport errors on the same day!) 

What my hike looks like on Google satellite maps. The delta on which the town of Murg is built was formed by deposits from the Murg River entering the lake there. 

We usually ride a train on this stretch along the lake, but this time it was a bus ride back to Waldenstadt. Out the bus window a closer look at the Palfries upper plateau where we have been a couple of times (see May 30, 2018). The highest peak is called Mt. Alvier, and we want to walk to the top there one day. There is a hostel at the very top there. 

The bus also stops at the valley station of the Flumserberg gondola cable-way, which is where I started this day's excursion. 

Riding the bus next to the railway line to Walenstadt. This village, I believe, is Mols. 

At the Walenstadt train station at 2:40 p.m., the clouds are finally lifting from the Churfirsten peaks. 

Heading west again along Lake Walensee, by train this time, for the relatively short trip home. (90 minutes from Walenstadt). 

These are all the hikes we have down around Lake Walensee and Mount Flumserberg. 

Location of Lake Walensee in Switzerland. 





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