Bivio to Alp Flix in the back of the Surses Valley in Parc Ela

Tuesday June 18, 2024: Day 1 of two-day Trip -- As there were very high temperatures expected in our part of the country, we headed on our first 2-day trip of the year to Canton Graubünden, where we were sure the days would be more comfortable. We chose to visit the Surses Valley (right in the center of Parc Ela, the largest nature park in Switzerland) where we had never been before, and booked a private room in the small village of Bivio (altitude 1770 meters) at the back of the valley, just before the motor vehicle road over the Julier Pass, and just 20 km from the popular city of St.Moritz.

Our plan for the first day was to drop off our overnight stuff at our hosts' place, then start off from there to walk along one of those themed trails we often follow, to end at a popular high alpine plateau called Alp Flix, a 15 km2 moorland of national importance, also known as a "treasure island" of biodiversity. (At one point, 500 species of flowers were counted here). 

As we emerged into the first alpine valley called Val de Natons, we could see that the standard trail descended again on a wide road, but that there was an alternative mountain trail higher up which also led to Alp Flix via a pass called Kanonensattel, which is at an altitude of 2250 meters above sea level. We had read that in this region there is still much snow above 2200 meters, but a local at the Alp Naton farm told us the pass was do-able, so that is what we did!

Other than it being very cold at this elevation, we much preferred this trail, as it allowed us to descend to the beautiful Alp Flix and view it from above. There were some snow patches to cross, but the highlight was the myriad of lovely alpine flowers along the way. Once we reached the vast Alp Flix, we rested at the restaurant (closed on Tuesdays!) and descended to Sur where the bus runs back to Bivio. 

As it was still too early at 5 p.m. to go to dinner and back to our room, we stayed on the bus on its run up to the Julier Pass, and got out at the first stop along the road, and walked back to Bivio, another four kilometers. We had lots of late afternoon sunshine, and were glad we did this, before heading to one of several restaurants in the village, where we enjoyed local specialties called Capuns and Pizokels. (Photos of the "second" hike are HERE)

(Side Note: Two days after we were here, there was a huge mud-slide, and the community was recommending that no one access the Alpine Pastures for the meanwhile...). 

First we ride the regular train to Chur (left home at 6 a.m.) and then take the Rhaetian Railway line to Thusis through the Domleschg, where there are many such castles. (We did a walk in this valley to visit the castles, including this one, in January 2020, those photos HERE)

The UNESCO Heritage Railway Line Albula/Bernina starts in Thusis and ends in Tirano, Italy. It is a fantastic journey crossing myriads of viaducts and bridges and passing through countless tunnels. This small chapel is called St.Cassian, and we visited this one in September 2022. 

We actually rode in the "Bernina Express" tourist train to Tiefencastel, but in the "regular" wagons, which require no supplemental charge. (Train on the right). But when we finally crossed to the train station after the other train left, we were amazed at the number of tourists joining the Bernina Express here at 9:20 a.m.!

Riding the bus up the Surses Valley from Tiefencastel, we pass the landscape where we will be walking the next day. Below the mountains on the left where there is currently still snow, is the highest pilgrim church in Europe, called Ziteil. We plan to visit it this year as we know the priest who runs the hostel in summer. 

Looking down the Surses Valley as we continue southward to Bivio. This is the landscape we plan on walking the next day, starting in the main town of Savognin further down. (This village has the funniest name of Tinizong in the local Romansch language, but also a German name called Tinzen). 

Now the bus passes by a dammed lake called Marmorera (Lai da Marmorera in the local Romantsch language). 

The south end of the Marmorera reservoir lake, with the dam at the back. 

We got to our accommodation in Bivio at 10:10, where we checked in to our room on the third floor, and left a backpack there. The house is privately-owned and they rent out four rooms in the top apartment. Luckily only two parties stayed here this night, us and a long-term renter. Across from the house the local grocery store was being renovated, but we knew we wouldn't be back till after the construction work was finished for the day. 

Before heading out on our day-hike, we had a quick look into a nearby church, called Sankt Gallus (or Son Giagl), which is a Romanesque build from at least 1219 when it was first mentioned in documentation. It is assumed it is much older. The Late-Gothic winged altar piece is from 1522 and both the altar and the very pretty organ were behind alarm-activated barriers. 

Heading north now at 10:45 out of Bivio along the Güglia/Gelgia River (Güglia and Gelgia are the Romansch names for the German "Julier", having its origin in the region of the Julier Pass further south from here). 

These signs tell us we are now following two themed trails down the Surses Valley: "No.25: Senda Segantini" and "No.64: ViaSett", both of which cross the Septimer Pass south of Bivio. We had originally planned to stay on this trail to Alp Flix, but changed our minds when we got to Alp Natons, and crossed the Kanonensattel instead. 

The 4-hour hike we did from Bivio (starting at 10:45) via Alp Natons and Kanonensattel to Alp Flix, and then down to Sur, where we caught the bus (16:48) back to Bivio and toward the Julier Pass for a second walk back to Bivio.

A stretch along the Gelgia River before heading uphill through the forest. 

Uphill through the forest toward Alp Natons. 

Some of the very many pretty alpine flowers that we saw along the way. 

According to a sign on a nearby rock, this is a pre-historic copper-ore slag. 

Our first view of Lake Marmorera as we reach Alp Natons. 

Alp Natons. The owners had just arrived for the summer season (usually you can get beverages here, but they weren't set up.) We did ask them how the access via Kanonensattel was, and they said it was no issue to cross there. We got here at noon, but didn't want to eat yet until we had done the full climb to the saddle. 

This is the alternate trail we chose to take, as the trail up to the pass called Kanonensattel looked much more interesting to us, even though there were still snow patches up there at 2255 meters above sea level! 

Down below is the regular themed trail, also leading to Alp Flix, but along a wider road and going downhill again. We much preferred the alpine route. 

The alpine roses were just starting to flower here. 

Heading out to the Kanonen Saddle 

So happy to be back in our alpine landscape again! (Last year by this time we had already done several such hikes, but this year the June weather has not been in our favour!) 

All these flowers and many more we saw as we climbed up the trail to the Kanonen Saddle!

Because of all the rain, plus so much snow in late spring, the rivers and lakes are all super full right now!

Crossing two branches of the river. The crossing behind me is actually a "natural" bridge, they just put a handrail there so you don't fall when crossing. The water flows under the boulders. 

VIDEO:

There is so much water in the rivers at the moment, due to rain and snow melt. 

Also, here is Urs crossing the natural bridge. 

A look behind us to Alp Natons, where we decided to change directions on our walk!

There's a trail over the ridge there at the back, but too soon in the season to cross that!

Now we're almost at the top, heading past the patch of snow we saw from Alp Natons below. 

At the highest point of our hike, the snows had just melted and left soft and wet ground behind, so we were forced to walk across some remaining snow. 

No problem walking across patches of snow when the terrain isn't on a steep incline!

We arrived at the highest point of our hike, the Kanonen Saddle, 2255 meters above sea level, at 1:30 p.m. (it took us 1 hour and 15 minutes from Alp Natons) and it was high time to have some lunch! Plus it's only a 35-minute descent from here to Alp Flix, and just short of two hours to our end destination of Sur. Here we join Trail no.6 "Alpine Passes Trail". 

There was an icy wind blowing up here, and we had a hard time finding a suitable place to sit and have our picnic lunch!

Continuing downhill on the other side of the saddle, here is the first glimpse of Alp Flix, a 15 km2 upper plateau where only three families live year-round. 

600 years ago when the Walser people first occupied this high plateau, about 200 people lived here year-round. Those people created this landscape, having cleared the forest and created pastureland.  The Alp extends to the far end where there are three lakes. We headed downhill at the height of the small church building in the center and did not go past the lakes.  

A look up a side valley as we head down to Alp Flix. 

This first of about four hamlets up here is called Salategnas

We are now continuing on toward the restaurant/hotel at Tigias, to where you can actually take a small bus which also continues to the other end of the plateau. 

Here is where we would have arrived, had we taken the lower trail. (No.25 or 64). 

Across the wide open space is a small building called SonRoc. It was built in the 14th Century as a chapel with an adjoining apartment for the live-in priest, who provided services for the large number of people living here at the time. 

Close-up of the SonRoc building. It is possible to rent the residence portion as short-term accommodation! (For clergy, or people needing to "get away from it all"). 

Unfortunately, the Berghaus (Mountain Hotel) Piz Platta is closed on Tuesdays, but we rested for a bit on their large terrace, before continuing on to SonRoc and down to Sur. 

Behind the hotel is a very large boulder in the river! You have to marvel at how these large rocks might have rolled down the mountainside. 

Can't have a hike without the cows.... 

We actually only walked on about 1/4 of the area of Alp Flix, as the other road continues far to the left past three lakes. But as we seemed to be a bit too early for most of what is apparently a fantastic flowering landscape, we will return another time in July and continue on across the Alp at that time. 

The vast plateau continues quite far to the north. But we decided to descend to the road here, to catch a bus back to Bivio.  

A look back to Tigias (where the Hotel is) and the other hamlet called Tga d'Meir, as we check out the chapel portion of the SonRoc building. 

(Interesting side note: We were here on Tuesday June 18th. Two days later, on June 20th at 11 p.m., a large mud slide came down the stream above the hotel, right down to plateau level. Apparently a lake under the glacier tongue higher up -- Vadret Calderas -- broke free and came rushing down the mountain, bringing all kinds of debris with it. As of a few days later, there was no longer access to the plateau from the lower trail, which we were originally going to walk on, as they had to build a safety dam there.)

Heading down to Sur

In just 45 minutes we made it down to the mountain village of Sur. It's now 16:24, but the bus, which we need to catch at 16:48, is way past the village, downhill on the left!

Still enough time to take a peek into the church at the top end of the village of Sur. 

Typical painted house of the Graubünden region. The word "Tga" means "house", and we found out on this trip that the word is pronounced "Cha" (as in the dance Cha-cha)

This guy, just roaming around his roof with a leaf blower, and not secured to anything.... 

We had plenty of time to catch the bus back to Bivio, here traveling once again along Lake Marmorera. We got back to Bivio at about 5:10 p.m. 

What our 4-hour hike from Bivio to Sur looks like on Google Satellite Maps. (We got to Bivio about 5 p.m, and it was still a nice afternoon, so we stayed on the bus and rode toward the Julier pass, the final run of this day, and walked back down for another 90 minutes. In all, we walked over five hours this day!)

PHOTOS OF THE SECOND HIKE (AN ADDITIONAL 4 KM) IN A SEPARATE BLOG ITEM --> HERE

Location of the Surses Valley in Canton Graubünden. It is about a 4-hour trip for us, so we decided to spend a night and two days in that area.

And here is what it looked like next to the Berggasthaus two days later. Apparently, they were very quick to clean up:

The mud slide came down the river behind the Berggasthaus, where the large boulder was. You can see the SonRoc building in this photo. (Photo from the website suedostschweiz.ch)