Across the Monte San Salvatore Range from Ciano to Morcote

Wednesday April 26, 2023 -- Back in February 2014 was the first time we were on the Monte San Salvatore range (Lugano's home mountain), having at that time started in the village of Carona (went up there by bus) and walked along National Trail no.7: "Via Gottardo" via Alpe Vicania and Vico Morcote (east side of the mountain) to Morcote on the lake. A second time we were there in November 26th, when we actually hiked up from lake level in Lugano Paradiso, right to the summit of Monte San Salvatore, then also following Trail no.7 to Carona, but descending along the west side of the mountain.

Well we had long wanted to go to Carona again to watch the bus drive through the narrow passage "under" the church, and also we had just heard about some botanical gardens nearby which are just currently in full bloom with rhododendrons and azaleas. As the Lugano region had the best weather forecast for this day (sunny and 20 degrees), we made our way to Lugano once again, and walked a trail we hadn't done before.

The day was really very nice, but not being used to warm weather, we were dressed too warmly! The 12 kilometers we walked seemed tougher than usual, but at least we got fresh air and exercise again. 

The original idea was to start in this village called Carabbia as we had never seen it before, and hike up the hill from here to Ciona and Carona. So we got off the bus here and walked up to the local church, as we always do. (This view over the rooftops of Carabbia is from the church terrace, approx. 10:45). 

Chiesa San Siro, the parish church of Carabbia sind 1608, was built on top of an old Oratorio from 750. Unfortunately, it was locked, as seems to be the case lately.

An olive tree and cat on the church terrace.... from here we returned to the main road with the intention of walking uphill from there, but....

...as we started out on the hike from Carabbia to Ciona, a large group of teenagers on a school outing headed out on the trail, with loud music, so we changed plans and took a bus back to the lower village of Pazzallo, and started the hike from there. This added another 45 minutes to our hike, but it was on a pleasant forest trail, mostly. This time we mostly followed Trail no.2: "Trans Swiss Trail" instead of Trail no.7

Starting out lower down the hill now after returning to Pazzallo (approx. 11:15), this is the view over Lugano on the right, and the "Gold Hill" (Collina d'Oro) on the left. 

Most of the way back to Carabbia was on a pleasant forest trail

This looked pretty cool, a palm tree totally encompassed by a visteria vine

So now we are back in Carabbia, passing below the church on the hill. 

A local person selling honey. Usually there is a cash box, but this is the first time we have seen a tube slide where you insert your payment! I guess the cash box is under the rock in the garden. You'd have to have the correct change for this one. 

We got back into the village of Carabbia at noon, 1 hour and 20 minutes from the first time we were here!

Another look over the rooftops of Carabbia to the locked parish church, before heading up the hill to the next village of Ciona

It took 20 minutes to get to Ciona, where we first peeked into the chapel, then walked to the other side of the village where the map showed us a park and castle where we had hoped to have our lunch, but the park was private and fenced off. 

This corner in Ciona we have seen before, and the statue of naked David is still where it was last time... I guess the parents of Florida children would have a difficult time walking past here!

Instead of taking the forest trail on the west side of the hill, we stayed on the paved road for the one kilometer to the next village of Carona. This way we also had some nice views of Lake Lugano, and the summit of Monte San Salvatore (on the left)

Also a view to the south, with Monte Generoso on the left (and the Valle Mara below it where we had been four weeks earlier, those photos are HERE)

We specifically chose the paved road to Carona so we could enter the village through the archway beneath the church. (The forest trail loops around to the south side). On the hill in the background is the San Grato botanical park which we visited later

We had to wait about 10 minutes for the bus to pass through the arched passage, so I went to have a quick look inside the church in Carona. 

Chiesa di San Giorgio in Carona dates back to the Romanesque period, first mentioned in 1425. By 1578 the Basilica underwent considerable reconstruction, and then partly remodeled in the early 19th Century. 

Here's how the bus fits into the narrow archway! We both took videos which are fascinating to watch. That video follows below in the blog. 

VIDEO:

It is fascinating to watch the PostAuto as it passes through the archway 

under the church in Carona. I took a video as the bus entered from the south, 

and Urs took a video as the bus exited on the north side!

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More archways as we walk around Carona for a bit

I don't know if I would trust those gangways!

We peeked into the terrace at the Hotel Villa Carona. It had a fantastic visteria vine forming a roof across the entire terrace. The main trunk looked to be about a meter wide!

On the outskirts of Carona was another church building on a hill. This is Chiesa San Marta. As it was not far off the trail and looked like another Romanesque building, we walked up there to check out the interior, only to find it was also locked. What a shame, as the Internet shows some extravagant frescoes on the inside walls. (An example is a photo from the website collegiumcaronensis.org, i.e HERE)

15 minutes from the outskirts of Carona, we got to the San Grato Botanical Gardens. We had received email notifications that the garden was at its peak of blooming azaleas and rhododendrons, that's why we actually chose this route for the excursion of the day. 

At the entrance to the botanical park. I was expecting much more intense colours, so we are not sure if it was the start of the bloom, or already the end. 

Walking uphill through the San Grato Botanical Gardens

Flower details. Azaleas and/or Rhododendrons?

At the top of the gardens is a restaurant from where you get this view North along the Monte San Salvatore Range and Lake Lugano (in the center is Monte Boglia, we have been to that summit as well). We wanted to stop for coffee, but as usual, there were smokers next to the only free table, so we continued on. 

The summit of Monte San Salvatore. There is a funicular from Paradiso on the Lake, north side of the mountain, which takes you up to the summit, from where you could actually start on this hike. (We have never ridden this funicular, but have hiked up to the summit from the north side. Those photos are HERE). Also, specifically, the view south along the ridge, where we walked this day, looks like THIS from the summit. 

A closer look at the village of Carona and the San Giorgio Basilica with the arched passageway

The trail to Morcote is part of both Trail no.2: "Trans Swiss Trail", and Trail no.52: "Sentiero Lago di Lugano". The 50-minute section to Alpe Vicania was all through the forest, and from there we had another hour to descend to Morcote on the lake.

Leaving the botanical gardens and continuing on to Alpe Vicania. It's now 2:30 p.m.

Most of the trail to Alpe Vicania was like this, wide forest road with little view. 

Only here there was a look-out point with a view. In the back is Monte Generoso

This is Monte San Giorgio, whose peak we summited on March 11, i.e. over six weeks earlier (those photos are HERE). It sure looks different now that it's all green!

Below, across the lake and at the base of Monte San Giorgio, is an interesting looking lakeside village called Brusino Arsizio, which we need yet to visit!

We have now arrived at Alpe Vicania, which is just a very large dry alpine meadow under natural protection. 

A mountain restaurant at Alpe Vicania. We also didn't stop here. From here, another 45 minutes down to the lakeshore.  

The entire descent (370 altitude meters) was along a set of stairs like this. The separation of the steps wasn't ideal, so the descent never seemed to end. Furthermore, there were supposed to be castle ruins on our left, but the entire section was separated by a fence with barbed wire on top! (We had seen this castle from across the lake, and really wanted to stop by there. It was a real disappointment. See HERE)

A look below us at the village of Figino, on the west base of Monte San Salvatore.

To the south is Porto Ceresio in Italy, where we also were 6 weeks earlier on our descent from Monte San Giorgio (on the left). The border between the countries is in the center of the lake.

Nearing the bottom now, this is a look down at the top of the church of Santa Maria del Sasso (Holy Mother of the Rock), built in the late 1400's. (By the way, here is what the church looks like from Monte San Giorgio across the lake --> HERE)

This is an interesting new phenomenon, it's called "Swing the World". A series of swings are built across the country in various locations where you can take pictures of your friends on the swing, with the lovely nature backdrop. There was another such swing in the Botanical Gardens. I can't imagine what you'd do if you had to wait in line. These girls were taking all kinds of pose photos!

The tower of Santa Maria del Sasso as we descend even more steps

It's now 4 p.m. and we have decided to catch the 16:25 bus, so there isn't much extra time to look at the church below

On the outside walls of the church building

It was very dark inside the building, and there was so much beautiful artwork, but none of my photos show it with any clarity

Another fabulous painted ceiling

Some of the artwork and fresco detail inside the church building. The organ is from the 1700's

A look over the rooftops of Morcote, and the large cemetery on the left. 

Final descent to Morcote. (We had actually wanted to continue directly down the steps on the south side, to the much older chapel of Sant'Antonio Abate, but were in a hurry and left through the wrong door in the church!)

From the main road in Morcote, a look up to the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Sasso

Main street in Morcote. The bus was late, so Urs really WOULD have had time to buy his traditional end-of-hike gelato, as there were two gelato shops here! (I know he really wanted to...)

And just enough time for a quick photo in the "Grand Tour of Switzerland" frame!

What the hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. We started on the bus route below the summit of Monte San Salvatore, as we had walked the Summit --> Ciona section once before.

We have done several hikes starting or ending in Morcote, and along the Monte San Salvatore range

Location of Lugano and Monte San Salvatore in the very south of Switzerland