Short walk between Andeer and Zillis near the Hinterrhein River

Saturday September 25, 2021 -- Day 4 of our 4-day trip to Nature Park Beverin... and unfortunately not what we had hoped for!

Our plan for the day was a 4-hour hike starting at the San Bernardino Pass (the second main passage besides the Splügen Pass from this valley to the South), which was only a short ride from our accommocation, and would have been a fairly quick way home at the end of the day.

But even though the day dawned cloudless in the Rheinwald Valley, we should have checked the webcam for the Pass. Not 10 kilometers away and barely 500 meters higher up, the pass was shrouded in thick fog, and there was thick cloud cover in the Mesocco Valley south of the pass. Not wanting again to hang around and wait for the clouds to dissipate, we rode back down to Nufenen, back past the five villages of the Rheinwald Valley and the Rofla Gorge, and down to Andeer, which is the next town North of the Rofla Gorge.  

Unfortunately, due to the two-hour delay, it was too late to plan a longer mountain tour, so Urs said "it doesn't always have to be a 4-hour hike" and we settled on a valley-bottom walk along the Via Spluga Trail from Andeer to Zillis (Basically, this is the section between the Rofla and Via Mala Gorges). It was barely a two-hour and 8-km walk but it was hotter than the entire summer we had had, and not the best choice for a valley-bottom hike, but this walk was mainly about pretty houses, churches, flowers, painted walls and other unique features. But with the heat and the longing to be higher up, this walk made me more tired than any four-hour hike in the mountains. 

(In the village of Zillis at the end of our hike, is an old church called St.Martin's. It has the best-preserved painted wood-panel ceiling of its kind in the world. We know this because we visited it on the day we walked through the Via Mala Gorge, so we didn't go in this time. But pictures of the ceiling and the gorge hike can be viewed HERE).

But all in all, we had a good four days in this beautiful area! Top weather, few people, and a very special accommodation in the 300-year old former traveler's Inn in the village of Nufenen...

At 9:15 a.m. we are saying good-bye to the village of Nufenen where we spent three nights in a lovely studio apartment in a 300-year-old renovated traveler's Inn. We are taking the bus through the San Bernardino tunnel to the village of San Bernardino. 

Even though we could see that the pass was in thick fog, we decided to take the bus up anyway (from the South) and just continue right back down on the North side, back into the Rheinwald Valley where we had just come from. 

The bus had a stop of a few minutes at the pass, so time for a couple of photos in the fog. Sometimes the effect is quite nice!

Even though a few people did get out at the San Bernardino Pass, we were the only ones who continued down the North side. Here we are coming back to the Rheinwald Valley, where the weather is beautiful!

Continuing down the Rheinwald Valley 90 minutes after our start, we pass all the familiar villages: Nufenen, Medel, Splügen, Sufers.

We had decided to see the town of Andeer, and to walk from here just eight kilometers northward along the Hinterrhein River to the village of Zillis. 

A look south over the village of Andeer. It is in the region at the back where we did the three previous hikes.

Walking through the town of Andeer and admiring the houses

We always like to come across covered wooden bridges

Crossing the Hinterrhein River in Andeer

The stretch we are following is the Via Spluga Trail no.50 (the old market trail which we had also followed when we descended from the Splügen Pass two days earlier). Clugin and Donath are the two towns we are passing through, and then continuing to Zillis

A short hike for us, not quite 8 kilometers and just over two hours. But it was very hot, especially the stretch from Andeer to Clugin (wide forest road, no shade), so it seemed longer

The little chapel in Clugin dates from the 12th Century and contains frescoes from 1350. 

I was very happy that this chapel was open for viewing, but there was a large iron lock you first had to figure out!

Pictures of the 12th-Century Chapel in Clugin. This is more the style of Catholic churches and chapels of that era, but this region is actually predominantly Protestant with churches with simple interiors featuring lots of carved wood (ceilings, benches, pulpit, organ). This building is a remnant from before the region converted to Protestantism in 1530.

This is the time of year for Autumn Saffron flowers, which are plentiful in the meadows.

After the long section of road between Andeer and Clugin, we were glad to get back onto meadow trails (on the left). 

Heading down through the forest trail to the next village called Donath (or Donat)

Arriving in Donat after passing through the forest below

We never get tired of these beautiful houses. There is so much intricate detail, and often paintings of family crests on the walls. 

I am always happy to find a town fountain, especially on a hot day, to fill up water bottles and bathe my head and back (which gets very hot from the back-pack!)

In the village church, the text indicates that the church was renovated in 1688! (Later as well, but it would be at least that old, at least 1463 according to documentation). 

On this house is painted a saying, and the date 1608

The text here is in the local Rumantsch language. "Tgea" means "House", and the dates would indicate the house was built in 1552!

An interesting "foyer"?

This are very similar coats of arms, found on separate buildings. 

Up the hill are lots of similar chapels. I was so longing to have been up there to check those out! We could have taken a bus up the hill and walked down, but didn't decide quickly enough. 

This calf must have been born in the night. There were two of them lying in the grass, as if they had recently been "dropped". It had just gotten up on its wobbly legs and made its way to the first meal.

The origins of St.Martin's Church in Zillis date to the year 500. It has the best-preserved wood-panel ceiling of its kind in the world. 

(This photo of the ceiling of St.Martin's Church was taken in 2018 when we started here on our hike through the Via Mala Gorge.... Photos can be viewed HERE)

Farmhouse in the village of Zillis

The flowers make all the difference!

We spied some swallows hidden under a roof overhang!

This is cute.

The village restaurant (and Gasthaus?)

Inscription on the restaurant building in Zillis. Presumably the building dates from 1608?

The center green line is the walk we did this day from Andeer to Zillis. In 2018 we walked from Zillis to Thusis via the Via Mala Gorge. The other two green lines are two of the other three hikes we did on this trip. 

Location of the Rheinwald Valley near the border with Italy

Location of the four excursions we did during our trip to the Nature Park Beverin. As well as the planned hike near the San Bernardino Pass

DAY 1 Hike:  Innerferrera to the Rofla Gorge -->  HERE

DAY 2 Hike:  Splügen Pass to Splügen via the Suretta Lakes -- HERE

DAY 3 Hike:  Juf to Cröt via Cresta --> HERE

DAY 4 Hike:  Andeer to Zillis 

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The Highest Village in Europe with Permanent Residents: Juf

Friday September 24, 2021 -- Day 3 of our 4-day trip to the Swiss Nature Park Beverin.

There is a village in Switzerland at the very South end of the Beverin Nature Park called Juf (pronounced "Youff"); at 2125 meters above sea level it is the highest village in Europe which is permanently lived in year-round (about 30 people from 6 families) and also one of the coldest regions in Switzerland. It was always a goal of ours to visit this village, and as it is not that far from our accommodation in Nufenen in the Rheinwald Valley, it was an ideal time to do this trip. 

Juf is at the very back of a valley which is basically a continuation of the Ferrera and Avers Valleys which we had visited two days earlier. So in effect, we returned to the same area. The river here is called the Jufer Rhein, and after joining with a series of other rivers, eventually joins the Hinterrhein at the Rofla Gorge (Those photos are HERE). 

We got to the village shortly before 10 a.m. and took our time with a second breakfast at one of the TWO hotels located at the back of this remote valley (!!!) before finally heading out at 10:45. The first half of our hike on this fantastic day was along the river but all in sunshine this time! The valley is wide up here, and we were surprised that cattle grazing was in full force, whereas at similar altitudes in other parts of the Alps, the cows have already returned to the "valley bottoms". 

About half-way down the valley, the trail descends into ravine-like terrain, and we wanted to continue enjoying the sunshine, so we switched to a high trail, which meant more ascent but also more spectacular views! Along this trail we encountered an aesculapian snake (these are big, non-venomous snakes, and it disappeared faster than I could ready my camera!) and some more mean-looking cows who forced us to do a 15-minute detour. We timed our excursion perfectly again, although we did have to move fast coming down the mountain to reach the tiny hamlet of Cröt about 10 minutes before the bus descended from Juf.

This was early enough in the day that we still had time for a tour of the westernmost village in the Rheinwald Valley, the village of Hinterrhein (same name as the river) right before the San Bernardino Pass (and tunnel). Hinterrhein is the oldest documented Walser settlement in Canton Graubünden, with records dating to at least the 13th Century. Each house had a name, and we watched the "cows come home" before heading on the four-minute bus ride back to our accommodation in Nufenen, one village over, for our final night in "the castle"....

Heading up the Ferrera Valley by bus we reach the village of Innerferrera, which is where we started our hike two days earlier (Photos are HERE).

At the Gasthaus Alpenrose is where we had coffee and cake before heading out on our hike

Enjoying the morning sunshine at the Gasthaus Alpenrose while waiting for our coffee

This house has vacation apartments and a small shop on the ground level!

A view to the very back of the valley past Juf

Having just crossed the Jufer Rhine, we are on our way North down the valley. 

The village of Juf: At 2125 meters above sea level, this is the highest village in Europe with permanent (year-round) residents, about 30 people from six families. There are two "Gasthaus" and several vacation apartments for rent as well. 

Our hike was a little over four hours. Mostly it was easy downhill walking except where we took the high trail before descending to Cröt. There is a small piece of Italy which juts into Switzerland here. Interesting is that the Lago di Lei is in Italy, but its dam beloongs to Switzerland

Heading down the beautiful Juf / Avers Valley, high above the tree-line. The weather was sunny and relatively mild. 

The river here is called the Jufer Rhine. Just below here, the river is joined by the Bergalgabach from the left to create the Avers Rhine, which continues nortward to become the Ferrera Rhine.

Side valley called Bergalga. There were marmots here, but too far to photograph well. 

There were still lots of cows out in the pastures up here. 

Heading down the valley. Eventually, we would walk up to the point with the arrow, before heading down on the other side. 

Behind me on the right is small bunch of cows. There were only about ten meters to cross along the road where they were standing (on a bridge), but there were babies and the cows glared at us, so we returned to here and descended to the road, and then climbed the hill again on the far side of the bridge. 

A detour around the cows and another 30 minutes of walking parallel to the road, we descend to this little community called Pürt, where there was a little self-serve shop in that barn at the far end. 

Looking down at Pürt. 

In the self-serve shop in the barn, I bought some home-made chocolate spread (we still had plenty of cheese from the dairy in Nufenen where were spending three nights). 

The trail switched to below the road. This is looking up-valley again. 

Ahead of us is the little church at Cresta. This is a dominant landmark here. We stopped for our picnic lunch and to rest our feet in the cemetery behind that wall. It was almost too hot there. 

We had seen advertisements that the church was getting a new organ, and happened to watch the fellow who was installing it. 

Heading through the village of Cresta

This house looks like it is about to break apart!

We decided that we would ascend on the high trail instead of going down into the shady ravine

Heading uphill along the high trail far above the Avers Rhine River

We're glad we chose the high trail instead of descending into the canyon (lots of shade there). This view up the valley where we had descended from made it worth the effort. 

A rather beautiful farm house way up here!

Fantastic panorama view of the Avers/Juf Valley on the left, and the Madrisch Valley on the right. Down below, where the two valleys meet, is where we are going to catch the bus. 

A look up the Madrisch Valley. Over those hills on the right is Italy. And straight down below is the village of Cröt, where we want to catch the bus. 

Contemplating our descent. We had to move fast to make sure we caught the 15:30 bus. It took us 35 minutes to descend.

Down below is the village of Cröt. The bus descends from the left, as does the alternate trail we could have taken. 

We actually arrived with 10 minutes to spare!

Houses in Cröt

How our hike looks on Google Satellite Maps

It was only an hour bus ride when we caught the 15:30 bus, to get to Hinterrhein via the Rofla Gorge. Hinterrhein is the last village in the western part of the Rheinwald Valley, before the road crosses the San Bernardino Pass. There is a section of Italy which juts into this part of Switzerland. 

We had an hour in the village of Hinterrhein to look at the pretty houses, before catching a bus back to Nufenen.

Main square in Hinterrhein

The 30-km speed zone here was a laugh!

Church bell-tower

Each house has a name

This is a house with the name "Kabinet"!

This is a look westward at the Hinterrhein River. Its source is in the mountains at the back. The road to the San Bernardino Pass is just on the left, as well as the newer base tunnel. 

We watched the cows coming up from the meadows to their barns (It's too cold to leave them out in the fields overnight). 

VIDEO:

Cows are returning from pasture on the other side of the highway. They belong to two families and have to be sorted as they go in two different directions. The cows look confused!

A few cows heading through the village

This was good for a laugh: A note for the postman reads: "Please place mail for Anna Linder under the rock on the window sill. Thank you".

Back at our Accommodation in Nufenen, one town over. 

This is the entrance to our living quarters. There are chickens everywhere!

This is the area of the Rheinwald and the Southern part of the Swiss Nature Park Beverin where we spent four days in September.