Sentiero Basso (Low Road) in the Blenio Valley from Olivone to Acquarossa

March 27, 2019 -- Recently we did a very special historically-themed hike in a valley called the Blenio Valley, a valley that connects Biasca in the Leventina to Disentis in the Surselva, via the Lukmanier Pass.

The upper section of the historical trail starting at Olivone and southward to Acquarossa is replete with buildings from the 17th century or earlier (mostly churches of course), most of which are adorned with frescoes, the art of the time. Due to their value, some of these chapels are kept locked, and you have to request the key from the curator, who usually lives in the village. Because this was a long hike, we only had time to view one such oratorio -- first documented 1567 -- which was full of restored frescoes done by a local Swiss-Italian painter named Giovanni Battista Tarilli, a very prolific artist whose works adorn churches in all the neighbouring valleys as well.

Additionally to all the fresco artwork inside these structures, many of the churches as well as private homes are adorned with paintings on their façades. (Theme in general is Saints and Nursing Madonnas). It was like walking through a 12-km long open-air Art Gallery!

The crowing jewel of mural painting is the former "Palazzo del Pretorio" or the "Landowner's Palace" in Lottigna, the most extensively heraldically-decorated building in all of Canton Ticino. It now houses the Blenio museum, which we have on our list of "Things to see at a later date".

Another more recent historically important feature of the valley is the Cima-Norma chocolate factory, founded in 1903 by local chocolatiers, but when their largest customers (Switzerland's largest chain of grocery stores) found another supplier, the factory had to close in 1968, with devastating effects on the economy of the valley. At that time there was a railway here to provide supplies, but the railway was also no longer cost-effective and rail service was discontinued.

Another interesting tidbit: We walked through a village called Grumo, which is the birth place of a famous cook named Maestro Martino de' Rossi, born approx. 1410, nicknamed "Prince of Cooks" as his work titled "Libro de Arte Coquinaria" was, at the time, the most copied collection of recipes and inspiration for many cooks of the age. Maestro Martino cooked in many high courts of the day, including for the pope, and brought the art of cooking from the medieval times into the Renaissance era. One could say he was the Western world's first Celebrity Chef.

I really enjoyed this tour, even though a cold wind was blowing (forecast was again for 18 degrees) and we plan to return to get keys for other churches, but when the trees are green this time.

WARNING: Many Many Photos

On the approach to Olivone by bus. The town lies at the foot of this prominent mountain named Mount Sosto

Crossing the Blenio River to the East side as our hike goes South from here.

First of many villas and interesting buildings along the historical trail. This one used to belong to one of the chocolate manufacturers who made it the summer residence for the parliament. Now in disrepair due to the exodus out of the valley since the shut-down of the chocolate factory

Also, the first house with paintings on its façade, although definitely more modern

In Olivone, this museum houses some valuable artifacts. You also have to call the curator to open up for you.

The first historical building on the theme trail: San Martino in Olivone, mostly dating from the 17th Century although the tower is romanesque, from the 12th Century.

I am mostly impressed by the half-recovered frescoes on the church walls

The Romanesque Church Tower dates from the 12th Century. Many of the churches in the valley have towers like this one.

And this was one of many small houses with mural paintings, usually depicting a Nursing Madonna. 

I will never get tired of walking through these villages. Each house is unique and there is always some little detail to discover.

The first of the chapels along the trail for which you have to request the key. It was the only one we had time for. Urs went to pick up the key from Mr. Emilio di Giorgi. 

Big old iron keys for the big old lock

The frescoes on the interior of this chapel have been fully restored in the past 100 years. The earliest ones, in the apse behind the altar, were done by a local artist named Giovanni Battista Tarilli in 1578

The paintings in the main part of the church were done later, ca. 1615. It is not clear if they were done by the same artist.

So much of the Art of the day revolved around religious themes, especially the lives of the Saints.

Oratorio Santa Catarina, a little art museum

There is a petition to restore this shrine, but my opinion is, there are enough good ones around.... Backdrop is gorgeous, though

On many private homes there are paintings on the walls. These are heraldic, i.e. to do with coats of arms

The next large church along the way is San Vittore in Aquila, Baroque construction approx.. 1730, although the bell tower was erected in 1641 in a Romanesque style. The paintings on the front are from another local artist named Carlo Biucchi

Originally there was a 13th Century Romanesque church on this spot; the only thing that remains of that church is the part of the wall with the 3 arches. Inside the church we saw a lovely carved stone baptismal fountain dating from 1573

In Aquila we took a 1 km detour to look at the Roman Bridge in Grumarone. This is supposed to be a special bridge, but I didn't think it was worth the detour, as we have crossed many such bridges

There was this little chapel (locked) and a museum in the little suburb of Aquila near the river .

In this building is the local museum

This wall with the purple flowers looked much prettier in real life

Next town: Dangio, with its Oratorio di San Ambrogio and a large painting of St. Christopher, patron Saint of travelers

Looking behind us to the North at Aquila, where we just passed through.

Also in Dangio (Dangio-Torre) is the former Cima Norma Chocolate Factory, no longer producing chocolate since 1968

These sweaters for the trees are kind of fun. There is a new business in the factory buildings, called "Urban Knitting"

Looking back at Dangio, where we just passed through

Another wayside chapel of which there are many in these communities

Next Church of historical note: San Stefano in Torre, a Baroque church dating from 1732.

This church was closed due to renovations on its 12th-Century romanesque tower, which was unfortunate because there are also apparently some very nice fresco paintings inside which I would have liked to see.

Just around the corner from the church was the "Red House" with this beautiful restored painting of the Nursing Madonna, painted in 1495. Simply stunning. 

Next stop: Grumo, birthplace of Maestro Martino, the most famous cook of the Renaissance Era

In Grumo we found another hidden house with another painting of Madonna and child

Some splashes of colour along the way, warms the soul when the wind is cold

This beautiful building which now houses the Blenio Museum is the most heraldically-decorated building in the entire canton of Ticino (this means most decorated with Coats-of-Arms). The house, also known as the "Palazzo del Pretorio" was built in the early 16th century on the location of a previous building whose portal dating from 1461 was incorporated into the building

Last section of our hike, descending from the forest trail back down to the Blenio River and the town of Aquarossa (= Red Waters), home of the ancient (but no longer in use) thermal baths much visited because of their "Red Waters"

Lovely signs of Spring

This was a long hike, almost 14 kilometers, but didn't seem like it because of the many interesting things along the way. I only wish it had been warmer.

Just a few of the churches, chapels and oratori on this 14-km stretch.... There are many more on the other side of the valley

The Blenio Side Valley to Valle Leventina has become one of my favourite valleys

Interesting side note: Most of the murals were of the Madonna and Child, more specifically Mother nursing her Child. In Italian they call this "Madonna del Latte" which directly translates to "Lady of the milk".