March 20, 2019

From Horw to Alpnachstad over the Renggpass along the Waldstätter Trail

March 20, 2019 -- After having done half of Stage 4 of the WaldstätterTrail on Sunday and with the weather still holding, we decided to do the other half. So we returned to Horw approximately where we ended previously and walked up the hill along the East flank of Mount PIlatus, and over the Renggpass to Alpnachstad.

The interesting thing here is that the Renggpass, though at 885m not high in elevation, was until 1860 the only overland link between Canton Obwalden in the South and Luzern in the North. The trail has been in use since the stone ages, and was the site of some historical battles and escapes.

Furthermore, this area played a significant role during WWII as a defence line, where soldiers lived in caves hewn out of the solid rock. We checked out a couple of these caves , so dark you couldn't see the walls. I would not have wanted to have to hide or live here.

On the Lucerne side of the pass we had little views at first, just a long steep climb and biting cold wind. But just before the climb to the pass, and on the South side it was magnificent. All the time above Lake Alpnachsee and the views right to the Eiger North Wall in the Bernese Alps. Too bad the air was hazy. And a cold wind here too.

We came down off the mountain right at the base station of the Pilatus cogwheel train; at 48% incline, this is the steepest cogwheel train in the world. 


*** Link to description of the first section of this Stage, i.e. Luzern to Horw


Heading by bus to Alpnachstad, this is a lovely view of Mount Pilatus.
After about 45 minutes of steep uphill climbing, we got these first views of Lake Lucerne, the Rigi Massif along the back, and Mount Bürgenstock. Straight ahead is the Horw peninsula where we walked 3 days earlier



This was a rather pretty wooden fountain-trough


To the West is the peak of Mount Pilatus. There is a cableway to the very top which runs along the ridge at the back. (Of course the famous cogwheel train goes up on the left/South side).

Zoomed view of the cable-way going up to the top of Mount Pilatus.


Beautiful pastoral landscape up here above Hergiswil and a panorama view across the entire Uri Alps

Up ahead is the Rengg Chapel, an important place of worship back when this was the only overland route. The actual pass is a 15-minute steep climb to the right.

Rengg Pass, the highest point of our tour! 885 meters.


First view into the valley on the South side of the Rengg Pass

On a clear day you can see all the way to the famous Bernese Trio: "Eiger / Mönch / Jungfrau"

Swiss soldiers lived here during WWII to defend against invasion of the Third Reich

This new trail was blasted in 1988 to complete the upper trail, the alternative to the current Waldstätter Trail

A fun part of the trail. This section is new since 1988


Along the upper trail is a much better view of Lake Alpnachstad than we would have had had we descended on the official Waldstätter Trail. Upper left is the Rengg Pass


Best choice ever to stay on the upper trail.

This would have been a perfect spot for a long pause if the wind had not been so cold

Preparing the fields so the meadow grass can flourish

The trail passes along the Pilatus Railway line, the steepest cogwheel line in the world.

The trail passes under the Pilatus Railway line, the steepest cogwheel line in the world.

Another view across Lake Alpnachstad just before getting to the valley bottom.

This bus has a pretty tight turning radius!

The required Tourist Photo!
This 9-km hike takes about 3 hours 30 minutes. The Waldstätter Trail continues around Lake Alpnachersee and over Mount Bürgenstock.
On Sunday we walked from Luzern to Horw via the Horw Peninsula, and on Wednesday we walked from Horw to Alpnachstad via the Rengg Pass 






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