Round-Tour Hike to the Monastery Santa Maria Assunta in Claro

Saturday November 20, 2021 -- Here's another outing I did on my own because Urs had a previous commitment. The weather forecast for the Ticino was for 15 degrees and sunshine, so I headed down that way, with a very specific purpose...

In December 2017, Urs and I hiked up to the Santa Maria Assunta Convent perched above the village of Claro in the Leventina Valley near Bellinzona. This convent is the oldest established (1490) convent in Canton Ticino, but is unfortunately a closed convent inhabited by a dozen Benedictine nuns, and can only be visited by special invitation. The only part of the structure open to the public is the church, which was built in the year 1300! At that time, we continued northwards along the mountainside to Cresciano, to take advantage of the little winter sunshine (although there was a cold North wind blowing). Those photos can be viewed HERE.

Because of that blog posting I was contacted by someone in Canada who is writing a book with a setting at this monastery. In order to help her with her research, I decided to return there this time and pay some special attention to the details. I decided to walk the approximately 8-km official themed loop called "Claro e il suo monastero" (Claro and its Monastery), which turned out to require an ascent of over 500 meters, no small feat!

The day was spectacular and it was almost too warm to do that kind of hiking! The ascent takes place on the old zig-zag cobblestone mule trail -- the original access to the monastery -- and I then descended via the mountain hamlet of Cavri through a dense chestnut forest, a steep and tricky descent at this time of year, as the trail is totally hidden by the fallen leaves, and slippery from autumn dew. But I got some nice photos of the monastery from a different angle from the last time!

On the way by train toward Bellinzona at 09:30, this is what the monastery looks like above the village of Claro. The mule trail on the left is in shadow, as is the rest of the loop trail. The sun's rays are just starting to hit the buildings...

As I switch from the train to the bus in Bellinzona, I can see the monastery perched on the otherwise almost fully forested hillside below Pizzo di Claro (09:45)

In the center of the village of Claro, at the main church here, the sign indicates that it takes 25 minutes to walk to S.Ambrogio Chapel, and another 35 minutes along the mule trail to get to the Monastery.

I have decided to follow the local themed trail no.627: "Claro and its Monastery". The loop is about 8 km long, and takes about 2.5 hours to walk. 

This is the parish church of Claro (Chiesa di San Rocco e Sebastiano, early 17th Century). I can't pass without a look inside. 

The inside of the San Rocco church was vast and sparcely decorated, but the ceiling above the altar was pretty intricate.

The inside of the San Rocco church was vast and sparcely decorated, but the ceiling above the altar was pretty intricate. 

Now I'm making my way through the village to the foot of the hill upon which is perched the monastery. It is now 10:20 a.m.

What an intriguing-looking flowering bush! It's a pleasure to see this in November!

A look back at the tower of San Rocco as I make my way up the hill. The combination of tropical palm trees and leafless chestnut forests is always intriguing. 

From the village of Claro all the way to the chapel called San Ambrogio is a pathway of cobblestones between the residences

Typical house construction here!

After 25 minutes and enough uphill to already have me breathing hard, I reach the chapel of Sant'Ambrogio, which is, unfortunately, locked. 

Here is the start of the famous mule trail up to the Santa Maria Assunta Monastery

The carving reads "Santa Maria Monastery, Mule Trail in the Shadow of the Chestnut Trees"

Making my way up along the mule trail, which is mostly on the North side of the hill, and in shadow, even though it is now 11:10 a.m. A nice view up the Leventina Valley (called the Riviera, for some reason)

Photo set-up of me walking up the mule trail, all covered in chestnut leaves. 

After 30 minutes I emerge from the shady trail and get the first glimpse of the church at the monastery

There is a cableway from Claro to the Monastery, for people who don't want to do the 35-minute trek along the mule trail. It costs 7 SFr. for a one-way trip!

This is the part of the grounds that is accessible, i.e. a small entrance on the right where you can buy honey and biscuits made on site, and the church, of course. 

A look at the West side of the buildings. This has quite a Mediterranean flair!

Panorama view from the front of the church building. 

A look up the Leventina Valley toward the Gotthard Mountains

The inside of the Church, built in the year 1300!

One of those unusual organs that can be closed like a cupboard

A self-timed photo on the view "terrace" in front of the church! I had my lunch here in the sunshine!

And now it's time to head up to the hamlet called Cavri, hiding in the forest. There is a 2-km road to get there, largely in the shadow of the mountain.

This trail along the convent walls eastward leads to the main entrance of the compound. 

A look back toward the West end of the Monastery compound

From here at the entrance to the Monastery driveway is a sign that tells me I have 30 minutes (ca.2 kilometers) to walk to Cavri.

The road to Cavri is accessible by motor vehicle only to people who live there. 

There are still wall lizards also enjoying the warm sunshine!

A 30-minute walk along the paved road, mostly in the shade, and I reach this tiny mountain hamlet called Cavri

And from up here we can look down at the monastery!

A closer look at the monastery compound from slightly higher up, from the hamlet of Cavri

To get back to Claro, I had to descend for about 50 minutes on this forest trail, which was difficult to find as it was covered with leaves, and also quite slippery in places. Good thing I had a GPS with me and my map!

Another peek at the Santa Maria Assunta Monastery from through the trees. There weren't many places where you could see it like this (the chestnut forests are very dense).

At the height of the Monastery, there was a nice break in the trees with this good view of the complex

Zoomed view of the monastery grounds

A long tricky descent through the forest, I emerged onto this road from the right. This road also leads up to the monastery, but goes up in a type of ravine which has shade all day in winter

Across from the cable car base station is this pretty house. The base station of the cable car is not far from the parking area near the start of the mule trail. 

And now I am back at the St.Ambrogio (or St.Ambrosi) Chapel, closing the loop I did today. 

From the cable-car station, St.Ambrosi Chapel, and start of the mule trail, it takes about another 20 minutes to walk to the bus stops. But I stopped to chat with a local who lives near the Chapel, and then I went the wrong way on the way down, and missed the bus I wanted to take. Luckily, there was a connection that took only 30 minutes longer to get home. 

We have also done several hikes in the region of the Pizzo di Claro mountain. This one (the loop trail in mint green) was a relatively short hike. 

Back in Bellinzona. It's now almost 3 p.m. and there is still lots of sunshine on the mountain, but by 4 p.m. there will be shade at the monastery. 

Approximate location of the Monastery in Switzerland

Sunshine and Magnificent Views above the Fog on Mt. Rigi

Thursday November 11, 2021 -- One final nice autumn day, but only above the fog. Where to go that's not too far from home? 

Directly South of us across Lake Zug is the first of the pre-alpine mountains, Mount Rigi, known far and wide as the Queen of the Mountains because of the spectacular 360-degree views you get up there. It's been a long time since we were up at the summit, and we knew we'd be in the sunshine up there, so we risked the potential crowds who always seem to go up there. As it turns out, it wasn't too bad at all.

We rode the famous cogwheel train from Arth-Goldau station to the summit (Rigi Kulm) where we first enjoyed magnificent views across northern Switzerland, the Schwyzer Alps to the East, the Bernese Alps to the Southwest, and Mt. Pilatus to the West. The only thing missing were the lakes below, which were blanketed by the cottony fog.

After an easy walk down the hill and to the top of Mt.Rotstock (another peak on this massif) we continued down to Rigi Kaltbad and slightly further to catch the other cogwheel train which provides access to this mountain, namely the Vitznau train.

We took it leisurely and enjoyed the sunshine and view. It was only a 2.5-hour hike for us, but we were glad for the opportunity to once again be up here, and on a particularly beautiful day, before the bad weather moved in again. 

A 45-minute ride with the blue cogwheel train from Arth-Goldau train station to Rigi Kulm has rewarded us with this first of many fantastic views. In the center, the snow-covered peaks are the Bernese Alps. After walking up to the Rigi Kulm Summit, we are going to walk over to that green peak on the right. It's called Rigi Rotstock. 

A favourite view and one I have photographed dozens of times: The chapel at Rigi Kulm with Mt. Pilatus in the background (another popular tourist destination)

Most of the people from our train, even the older ones, took the "Steep Trail" to the top, the one for "Athletes". We took the "Comfortable Trail", the one for old people. We got a better view that way!

From the "Old People Trail", we get to look directly into the Muotathal Valley. Down below would be Lake Lauerzersee. At least you can see the Mythen Mountains (the sharp pointed one) and behind it, the fascinating Schwyzer Alps

Panorama view of Mt.Zug on the left, and Mt.Wildspitz in the center, and behind them is Unterägeri, a little town in Canton Zug that avoids a lot of the winter fog!

Now at the very summit of Mt. Rigi, this is the view North. Normally, you would see a fairly large lake down there, Lake Zug! And the city where we live on its North bank. But the fog adds character to the photos!

Leaving the summit, we finished our loop around the Rigi Kulm Hotel to get back to the train station, and continue our walk along the mountain side. Our mid-goal is Mt. Rigi-Rotstock, the little peak in the center. 

Another view of the Schwyzer Alps (Silberen, Vreneli's Garten on the right) and the Schächentaler Windgällen range on the left. A zoomed photo this time. 

The trail below, which goes from the summit to one station down (Rigi Staffel), is one we have done many times, especially in winter, so we are going a different way, more to the left. 

We know this mountain well, and did only a leisurely walk, staying as much as possible in the sunny sections! 8 km and 2.5 hours is an afternoon stroll for us!

Heading down the easy path after some time spent at the summit (Rigi Kulm), admiring the views

No meadow flowers any more for a long time, but the silver thistles are still a welcome sight

Left-over snow from a recent snowfall. This wide road, a detour to get to Rigi Staffel, is (or used to be, not sure) a toboggan run in winter, which I once rode many years ago.

At Rigi Staffel, which is a stop on the way up to the summit from Arth Goldau on the East side of the mountain (blue train, which we came up on), is also the junction for the red Vitznau Train, which goes up to the summit from the South side of the mountain, via Rigi Kaltbad. Right now there is a special "Extra" train making the run to Rigi Kaltbad.

This is the regular Vitznau-Rigi train which does the summit run via Rigi Kaltbad. The Red Train

This is "Locomotive 7", a very special train, and the only steam-powered cog-wheel locomotive with a vertical tank IN THE WORLD still in operation! (It can be chartered for rides up this mountain!). Built in 1873, it spent the past 60 years in the transport museum in Luzern, but was returned to the Queen of the Mountains this year to celebrate 150 years of railway history on Mt.Rigi

VIDEO:

This video was sent to us by a friend who was present at the 150-year celebrations on Mt. Rigi in May 2021 when Locomotive 7 made its way up the mountain! (And yes, there was snow!)

After walking below Rigi Kulm Summit to Rigi Staffel station (where the events tent is), we walked up onto the other peak here called Rigi Rotstock

Having a coffee break at the summit of Rigi Rotstock, enjoying some more fantastic views

From the summit of Rigi Rotstock we look down at Rigi Kaltbad (below left) with its outdoor mineral pool, and the incomparable view of the Central mountains (Bürgenstock, Buochserhorn, Stanserhorn, Pilatus) and the Bernese Alps at the far back. Directly below is Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee) totally covered in fog

To the East, another look at the Mythen group and the other ranges of Muotathal region. 

Heading down the mountain now toward Rigi Kaltbad. There are many such fascinating fences up here, which take a lot of effort to build!

A lovely painting on the side of a hotel in Rigi Kaltbad

The outdoor mineral pool at Rigi Kaltbad. You pay a lot to bathe here, because of the view! 

There was a train station at Rigi Kaltbad, but we wanted to walk some more. So we descended parallel to the train line here, to the next station called Romiti/Felsentor

The red Vitznau-Rigi Cogwheel Train heading uphill (the locomotive pushes the wagons here). We're catching it on its way down.

The fog has lifted above the Lake Lucerne, but there is a haze now, so the lake still isn't visible. 

We found a nice spot to enjoy the view and sunshine while waiting to catch the Vitznau-Rigi train on its way down to the lake. 

This is what our hike looked like on Google Satellite maps. All the depressions with lakes were covered in fog when we were up there!

Down at the village of Vitznau we wait for the bus. Behind are the mountains we just descended from. 

Bus stop in Weggis as we watch the boat approach from Vitznau. Most of the people in our train descending from the mountain had boarded this boat for the ride to Luzern. 

There are lots of options for walking here on this local mountain, also lots of winter trails, of which we have done a few. Several cable cars and two cog-wheel trains give access to several parts of the "massif".

THIS is the view we are supposed to have of Lake Zug, looking North from Rigi Kulm, when the lake is not covered in fog!

This is what Mt.Rigi looks like from our home in Zug. It is close by and easily accessible for us. 

Location of Mt.Rigi in Switzerland