Winter Panorama Trail on Mount Rigi from Scheidegg to Kaltbad

Wednesday December 27, 2023 -- We invited friends to stay for a couple of days with us, and one of our planned outings was a winter walk on our local mountain, Mount Rigi.

The day was better than we could have hoped for, with very clear air and lots of sunshine. We parked the car at the parking lot for the Scheidegg cable car (Kräbel), rode the cable car to Rigi Scheidegg, and walked 7 km to Rigi Kaltbad, where we had lunch on a sunny terrace at the Alpina Hotel. From there it was another train ride to Rigi Kulm summit for additional views across the Central Plateau of Switzerland to the north, followed by coffee at the Station Bistro because we just missed the train back down the mountain and had to wait a full hour for the next one! As there is a train station right next to the cable-car station where we started our excursion, we were able to complete the loop right back to the car park.

Mount Rigi has a nick-name: "Queen of the Mountains", as it is the first "real" mountain on the north side of the Alps, offers 360-degree views of a substantial part of Switzerland including the Alps and all the way into Germany and France, and has had easy access since the construction of the cog-wheel train in 1870. Unfortunately, because of this easy access, the mountain has become a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, especially on such a rare beautiful day, and right dead center in the Christmas holidays! 

But this day trip was enjoyed by all!

(Side Note: We have done this walk many times in summer and winter, and once before in much better snow conditions. Those photos are HERE).

We came by car this time to Mount Rigi, where we parked at the Chräbel parking lot, or base station of the Scheidegg Cable Car. This view is of Rigi Kulm, where we also ended our excursion with a train ride at the end of our 7-km walk. The summit is just under 1800 meters above sea level. 

This is the Scheidegg Cable Car. We were hoping to get to the cable car station before the masses coming up from Arth Goldau train station, but an extra run had just arrived with about 50 people! Lucky for us, we were in the first cable-car run up the mountain. In the background is Lake Zug and Mount Rossberg, where one of Switzerland's most disastrous rock-slides occurred in 1806.

From the Scheidegg station on the east side of the Rigi range, we get a view down to Lake Lauerz and the Mythen mountains. 

To the north, a better look at Lake Zug, which is half covered with the typical fog we get there. The communities below are called Arth (at the head of the lake) and Goldau, a major train station. 

At the start of our walk westward is this huge bench, fun to climb up on and great for a photo!

I was happy to get on a photo too!

Here at Scheidegg are several summer homes and a hotel or two. Even though there isn't as much snow as hoped, we still had a winter landscape. 

Looking directly south, you can just see part of Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee) and the Uri Alps, plus Mount Seelisberg where we had been a couple of days earlier. 

A close-up shot of the main peaks of the Bernese Alps to the southwest, in this case the recognizable north face of Mount Eiger, with part of Mt.Jungfrau just barely visible behind it, and Mt.Mönch on its left. These are the famous Grindelwald/Lauterbrunnen trio. 

Our 7-km walk along the Rigi Winter Panorama Trail. Having parked the car at "Chräbel" at 10 a.m., we took the cable car to Scheidegg, walked to Kaltbad where we had lunch at about 1 p.m, then from there took a train to Rigi Kulm. We had to wait for the 3:15 p.m. train back down to Chräbel, so we looked at the view for a bit, and relaxed over coffees in a warm restaurant!

We started out on our 7-km walk on the Panorama Trail at 10:30. They aren't kidding about the panorama!!!! This view is across the Alps of Central Switzerland, including Bernese Oberland. 

Enjoying the winter sunshine with friends. 

Only on this section the slope made descending a bit difficult. A plastic bag made a good slide, we should have brought more! From here on, the trail was level. 

The pink signs indicate times for the winter trails, which take about 20-30% longer to walk. So in effect, this was about a 2¼-hour walk altogether to Rigi Kaltbad.  

A view to the West to Mount Zug on the left (like a table-top mountain) and Rossberg in the center (the highest peak there is called Wildspitz) 

For most of the way we had very good snow conditions for this winter walk!

Unfortunately the lack of snow makes the mountain look unattractive, but this is a view to the summit, which we traveled to by train later. By the arrow on the left is the panorama trail which we reached later. 

About halfway along the trail is an old railway bridge (no photo this time, but here is a photo from one of our other hikes here --> BRIDGE) at a location called Unterstetten, from where you get this spectacular view of Mounts Bürgenstock, Pilatus, Stanserhorn and the mountains of Ob- and Nidwalden. Plus of course, Lake Lucerne. 

A look down at Lake Lauerz and the two Mythen Mountains above the city of Schwyz. In the background are the Glarus Alps 

Nearing the end of our walk, this is the most fantastic view over the Alps. 

This is the hotel Alpina where we had lunch, on the table in the corner on the terrace at the arrow. We would actually have been just in time for the next train from here to the summit, but it was 12:30 and that was the only table that was free, so we took advantage of it. 

Enjoying our lunch on the sunny terrace at Rigi Kaldbad station. Surprisingly, not a single person on the crowded terrace smoked! (THAT has never happened before, I was preparing myself mentally to have to put up with cigarette smoke!)

From our table on the terrace we looked down at the new and modern train that we could have caught to the summit of Mount Rigi from here. This train does the run from Vitznau on the south side of the mountain at the lake, to the summit. (The old trains were red-and-white, and so much cuter!) We caught the next train up an hour later. 

At 13:35 we caught the next train up to the summit. This was our first time riding in these modern trains, which have been in operation here since only the spring of 2022. 

Heading up to the summit of the mountain by train. This building at Rigi Staffel is the "Schwinger-Haus". Schwingen is a national sport here, a type of wrestling, and there are competitions held up here every summer. 

And here at the Rigi Kulm summit station is the view that all the tourists come up here for! This view is to the Uri and Glarus Alps. Our hike took place on the next crest from here, straight ahead. 

This view is to the Bernese Alps, slightly southwest. 

This is the Rigi Kulm Hotel. We still have a small hill to hike up to the summit. 

On the steps to the communication tower at the summit of Mount Rigi

A fantastic view today to the north! Lake Zug is clear of fog. We live in the city at the northeast corner of the lake. Far in the back we can see all the way to Germany and the Black Forest. 

Directly below the north side of the Mount Rigi is a large upper alpine pasture called Seeboden Alp. Directly in the center is the town of Küssnacht where my Dad spent his late teenage years. And on the far right on the lake is where Urs grew up. 

From here you can see right down to the city of Schwyz, and all across the Schwyzer and Glarus Alps. 

We're heading back down to the train station, but just missed the 14:16 train down, so we went into a small cafeteria and had coffee while waiting for the next train. 

At 15:45 we are almost down the mountain now. Below is Lake Zug, Arth and Goldau

Here we are back at Chräbel parking lot. We came down in the blue train, which is continuing to the valley bottom. The red train is part of the original fleet which was replaced by the modern trains, but deployed on this line when there are lots of people on the mountain, which was the case today. 

Here's what the panorama trail looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

Hike down Mount Rigi on the Schwyzer Höhenweg

Friday June 2, 2023 -- Another beautiful day not to be wasted, so I decided to do a hike on my own again, heading up to the summit of Mount Rigi on the first possible connection (train up from Arth-Goldau at 8 a.m., arriving at the top at 8:50) where I was able to enjoy the early morning panoramic views and the peacefulness before the next scheduled trains brought all the Asian tourists up the mountain at 10:00 a.m.

As the trains spilled their masses of tourists at the summit, I boarded to descend to the next station down (Rigi Staffel), having planned to walk down the mountain from there, to the train station at Arth Goldau. (Only six people on the train's return journey!!). The trail I followed wasn't the best as far as views are concerned, but it is part of the Regional Trail no.63: Schwyzer Höhenweg (Schwyz High Trail) and a section of trail which I had not walked before (we have walked many trails along this mountain already). 

No one else seemed to be walking downhill this day, although I passed many sweating hikers walking uphill: People seem to feel challenged to summit many of the Swiss mountains on foot, but I'd rather descend 1000m instead of ascending, especially on a hot day! The air was hazy by the time I got near the bottom, so the views to Lake Lauerz and Lake Zug weren't the best, but it was a comfortable enough walk, another 10 kms and 2 hrs 40 minutes. Along the way, I got to watch the cows being led up to higher pastures for the summer, and that is always a treat as well!

A 15-minute train ride from Zug to Arth-Goldau along lake Zug (25 minutes from home). This is Mount Rigi. A cog-wheel train takes you up to the summit which you can see across the lake. 

The Rigi Railway station with the first set of trains ready to climb the mountain, departure time is 7:55, and it is a 45-minute ride to the top. There were about 20 of us in this first run up the mountain

The first views of the mountains as the train makes its way to the summit

Up at Rigi Kulm station is the familiar landmark chapel

From the summit station, all the tourists make their way to the restaurant and the tower, from where you get 360-degree views over most of Switzerland. I've been there so many times, I didn't bother this time. 

Even from below the tower, you get a very nice view to the north across Lake Zug (we live at the far end of that lake). Of course if the air was less hazy, you would see much further. 

Also to the north is the popular plateau called Seebodenalp, and the Küssnacht arm of Lake Luzern (Vierwaldstättersee). 

There were a couple of wooden lounging chairs here above the chapel, and as I hadn't slept well the night before, I decided to rest here for an hour before the flood of tourists came. It was cool and quiet and peaceful, and only a handful of people were up here. The view's not too bad either. 

Below is the walking trail to the next lower station at Rigi Staffel. I have walked this trail many times. In the background is Mount Pilatus, the main mountain of the city of Luzern, which is at its base to the right. 

Waiting for the 10 a.m. train to head down one station to the start of my hike. The white-capped mountains in the background are the Bernese Alps. On a clear day, the views here are incomparable. 

The newer, modern Rigi train arrives from Vitznau with the first load of tourists....

...followed be the older blue train from Arth Goldau

Almost all of these people are Asians from China or Korea. I'm so glad I took the earlier train up! And boy, this isn't even summer holidays yet. 10 a.m. on a Friday morning in June. 

That part of the mountain is called Rigi Rotstock. I am starting my downhill hike from the building on the right, which is called Rigi Staffel. And in the background is Mount Pilatus

Only a handful of people in the train for the ride back down the hill. An hour later and it will be full of those tourists again, who only really spend an hour up here before moving on to their next destination. 

The modern train is also descending to pick up the next set of tourists. This is the train station at Rigi Staffel, where I started my hike at 10:15.

The section of the Schwyzer Höhenweg (no.63) from Rigi Staffel to Arth Goldau, almost 10 km and 2.5 hours, which is about what it took me. It's all downhill, 1120 meters. 

VIDEO:

The blue Rigi Train heading back down to Arth Goldau

The blue Rigi train heading back down to Arth Goldau, as I start out on my walk. 

Down this valley is where the trail leads. In the center is a small gathering of buildings called Rigi Klösterli, including a small pilgrim's chapel. 

A look up at the tower at Rigi Kulm (summit). 

There was forestry work being done along the trail, which actually was blocked to hikers until end of May. Still, they obviously hadn't finished their work, and I had to clamber over heaps of cut branches. 

Near the next station of Rigi Klösterli are a few residences, a hotel, a vacation camp facility, and this little pilgrim chapel called "Maria zum Schnee" (Maria of the Snow), dedicated in 1721

Obviously I had to take a look in the chapel. I was impresed at how ornate this mountain chapel is!

Many details of the inside of the pilgrim chapel "Maria zum Schnee"

Cows and flowers

Stopped here for a self-timed photo and to change into my shorts, because it is now 11 a.m. and getting quite warm!

The 11 a.m. run up the mountain with the next load of tourists!

As I was heading down the trail, I heard an incessant noise of cow bells, which usually means that cows are on the march. After waiting 10 minutes they finally appeared, being led to higher pastures. But they were taking their sweet time with the process!

VIDEO:
It's hard work getting those cows to upper pastures, as they want to stop and taste all the grass along the way!

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Now they're wondering what I am doing up here... 

In another pasture I saw these cows sleeping on their sides. This looks so unusual, you don't often see them lying like this!

About 2/3rds down the mountain is a restaurant and former Gasthaus called Dächli. (This abandoned building is not the restaurant). 

Even though a sign read that they are open Friday-Saturday-Sunday, it looks like it might no longer be operational. There was a fridge with self-serve refreshments. The wooden carving is interesting!

A look up at the building called Dächli as I continue down the mountain. It is believed that this building provided accommodation and meals in the 18th Century to the pilgrims making their way up the mountain to the chapel at Klösterli. Back then, the ascent had to be done on foot, no Rigibahn! 

From Dachli it's just over an hour to the train station in Goldau.

Now I've emerged from the forest into the pasturelands at the foot of the mountain, with a view south to Lake Lauerz and the Mythen mountains. 

A look behind me up the mountain. The small building toward the top is Dächli

A close-up look to the summit of Mount Rigi

To the north is Lake Zug. The town on the south end of Lake Zug is called Arth

A zoomed view of Arth on the south side of Lake Zug

Down at city level now, this is the Catholic church in Goldau

If time permits and churches are open, I always have a look inside

At 1:15 p.m. I made it back to the Rigi-Bahn train station, which is an elevated platform built above and perpendicular to the regular railway. The platform was built in 1897 and as of 2006 it has become an industrial monument of national importance. 

The elevated platform was built in 1897 and was an engineering marvel of its time. Since then, and with the development of electric trains and most recently of double-decker trains on the Gotthard line below, the platform had to be raised twice (41cm in 1922 and 70 cm between 2010 and 2017). As of 2006 it had become an industrial monument of national importance, and therefore they could not remove it to make way for the taller trains. 

And now another look at the summit of Mount Rigi as I head back home again at 1:15 p.m. 

What my hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

All the hikes we have done around Mount Rigi and Mount Zug