November 20, 2021

Round-Tour Hike to the Monastery Santa Maria Assunta in Claro

Saturday November 20, 2021 -- Here's another outing I did on my own because Urs had a previous commitment. The weather forecast for the Ticino was for 15 degrees and sunshine, so I headed down that way, with a very specific purpose...

In December 2017, Urs and I hiked up to the Santa Maria Assunta Convent perched above the village of Claro in the Leventina Valley near Bellinzona. This convent is the oldest established (1490) convent in Canton Ticino, but is unfortunately a closed convent inhabited by a dozen Benedictine nuns, and can only be visited by special invitation. The only part of the structure open to the public is the church, which was built in the year 1300! At that time, we continued northwards along the mountainside to Cresciano, to take advantage of the little winter sunshine (although there was a cold North wind blowing). Those photos can be viewed HERE.

Because of that blog posting I was contacted by someone in Canada who is writing a book with a setting at this monastery. In order to help her with her research, I decided to return there this time and pay some special attention to the details. I decided to walk the approximately 8-km official themed loop called "Claro e il suo monastero" (Claro and its Monastery), which turned out to require an ascent of over 500 meters, no small feat!

The day was spectacular and it was almost too warm to do that kind of hiking! The ascent takes place on the old zig-zag cobblestone mule trail -- the original access to the monastery -- and I then descended via the mountain hamlet of Cavri through a dense chestnut forest, a steep and tricky descent at this time of year, as the trail is totally hidden by the fallen leaves, and slippery from autumn dew. But I got some nice photos of the monastery from a different angle from the last time!

On the way by train toward Bellinzona at 09:30, this is what the monastery looks like above the village of Claro. The mule trail on the left is in shadow, as is the rest of the loop trail. The sun's rays are just starting to hit the buildings...

As I switch from the train to the bus in Bellinzona, I can see the monastery perched on the otherwise almost fully forested hillside below Pizzo di Claro (09:45)

In the center of the village of Claro, at the main church here, the sign indicates that it takes 25 minutes to walk to S.Ambrogio Chapel, and another 35 minutes along the mule trail to get to the Monastery.

I have decided to follow the local themed trail no.627: "Claro and its Monastery". The loop is about 8 km long, and takes about 2.5 hours to walk. 

This is the parish church of Claro (Chiesa di San Rocco e Sebastiano, early 17th Century). I can't pass without a look inside. 

The inside of the San Rocco church was vast and sparcely decorated, but the ceiling above the altar was pretty intricate. 

Now I'm making my way through the village to the foot of the hill upon which is perched the monastery. It is now 10:20 a.m.

What an intriguing-looking flowering bush! It's a pleasure to see this in November!

A look back at the tower of San Rocco as I make my way up the hill. The combination of tropical palm trees and leafless chestnut forests is always intriguing. 

From the village of Claro all the way to the chapel called San Ambrogio is a pathway of cobblestones between the residences

Typical house construction here!

After 25 minutes and enough uphill to already have me breathing hard, I reach the chapel of Sant'Ambrogio, which is, unfortunately, locked. 

Here is the start of the famous mule trail up to the Santa Maria Assunta Monastery

The carving reads "Santa Maria Monastery, Mule Trail in the Shadow of the Chestnut Trees"

Making my way up along the mule trail, which is mostly on the North side of the hill, and in shadow, even though it is now 11:10 a.m. A nice view up the Leventina Valley (called the Riviera, for some reason)

Photo set-up of me walking up the mule trail, all covered in chestnut leaves. 

After 30 minutes I emerge from the shady trail and get the first glimpse of the church at the monastery

There is a cableway from Claro to the Monastery, for people who don't want to do the 35-minute trek along the mule trail. It costs 7 SFr. for a one-way trip!

This is the part of the grounds that is accessible, i.e. a small entrance on the right where you can buy honey and biscuits made on site, and the church, of course. 

A look at the West side of the buildings. This has quite a Mediterranean flair!

Panorama view from the front of the church building. 

A look up the Leventina Valley toward the Gotthard Mountains

The inside of the Church, built in the year 1300!

One of those unusual organs that can be closed like a cupboard

A self-timed photo on the view "terrace" in front of the church! I had my lunch here in the sunshine!

And now it's time to head up to the hamlet called Cavri, hiding in the forest. There is a 2-km road to get there, largely in the shadow of the mountain.

This trail along the convent walls eastward leads to the main entrance of the compound. 

A look back toward the West end of the Monastery compound

From here at the entrance to the Monastery driveway is a sign that tells me I have 30 minutes (ca.2 kilometers) to walk to Cavri.

The road to Cavri is accessible by motor vehicle only to people who live there. 

There are still wall lizards also enjoying the warm sunshine!

A 30-minute walk along the paved road, mostly in the shade, and I reach this tiny mountain hamlet called Cavri

And from up here we can look down at the monastery!

A closer look at the monastery compound from slightly higher up, from the hamlet of Cavri

To get back to Claro, I had to descend for about 50 minutes on this forest trail, which was difficult to find as it was covered with leaves, and also quite slippery in places. Good thing I had a GPS with me and my map!

Another peek at the Santa Maria Assunta Monastery from through the trees. There weren't many places where you could see it like this (the chestnut forests are very dense).

At the height of the Monastery, there was a nice break in the trees with this good view of the complex

Zoomed view of the monastery grounds

A long tricky descent through the forest, I emerged onto this road from the right. This road also leads up to the monastery, but goes up in a type of ravine which has shade all day in winter

Across from the cable car base station is this pretty house. The base station of the cable car is not far from the parking area near the start of the mule trail. 

And now I am back at the St.Ambrogio (or St.Ambrosi) Chapel, closing the loop I did today. 

From the cable-car station, St.Ambrosi Chapel, and start of the mule trail, it takes about another 20 minutes to walk to the bus stops. But I stopped to chat with a local who lives near the Chapel, and then I went the wrong way on the way down, and missed the bus I wanted to take. Luckily, there was a connection that took only 30 minutes longer to get home. 

We have also done several hikes in the region of the Pizzo di Claro mountain. This one (the loop trail in mint green) was a relatively short hike. 

Back in Bellinzona. It's now almost 3 p.m. and there is still lots of sunshine on the mountain, but by 4 p.m. there will be shade at the monastery. 

Approximate location of the Monastery in Switzerland


1 comment:

Judy Delaney said...

That is one lucky Canadian friend.