Looking for the "Flower of Light" in Eischoll, Canton Valais

(This post was published on November 2, 2023. In retrospect, we were probably not too late to find the early meadow saffron flowers, but rather we didn't go high enough. On April 20, 2018 and again on April 2, 2021 we traveled to the same hillside, but in the meantime found out we had to hike ABOVE the village to find the flowers, of which we saw fields and fields full. )

Tuesday April 19, 2016 -- The small community of Eischoll in Canton Valais boasts to be the official home of the rare Spring Meadow Saffron Flower, nicknamed "Flower of Light" (very similar to the Autumn Crocus). Although the flower is found in other parts of Southern Europe, it is only in the Canton of Valais where there are a few meadows where this flower grows. Shortly after the snows melt (anywhere between February and May) the flowers spring up near the village of Eischoll in vast quantities, creating an image of a purple carpet across the meadows. The hope of seeing this spectacle of nature brings many tourists to this area. Our visit to the fields near Eischoll mid-April might have been a bit too late this year, because although we found little clusters of the flowers, we seem to have missed the fully blooming meadows, which is a real shame. Next time we’ll call ahead at the tourist office!….

Our original plan was to walk from Unterbäch to Ergisch, but when we got to the Unterbäch cable car station in Raron, we found out it was closed for revision!!! Luckily there is a second cable car right next to it, to Eischoll (at any time one or the other is operation, with a shuttle bus to the other station when revision takes place). But starting our hike in Eischoll would be too short, so from the summit station we took the shuttle bus to our originally planned starting point at Unterbäch, and walked back to Eischoll!

Cable car from Raron in the Rhone Valley up to Eischoll. The cable car to Unterbäch was in revision. From here we took the shuttle-bus back to Unterbäch so we could start there, as planned. It seemed weird to be backtracking. 

The church in Eischoll as seen from the cable-car station. We got here at 10:30 and took the shuttle bus to Unterbäch where we actually wanted to start our walk.

Starting our hike in Unterbäch at 10:40. Main stop is Eischoll, and then on to Ergisch. There must be a more direct route to Ergisch, as the trail we took was about 2½ hours. 

Some very nice buildings along the way as we walk through Unterbäch

We saw this very pretty cat sitting on a window sill!

We took the cable car to Eischoll and from there a shuttle bus to Unterbäch (10:40) and walked back to Eischoll, and ended at Ergisch at 15:10

On the trail between Unterbäch and Eischoll

This part of the trail is along what used to be an irrigation channel

There is evidence of the old irrigation channel along the way. 

Across the Rhône Valley is the South Ramp of the Lötschberg train, a hike we did last November. The mountain which dominates the landscape here is Mount Bietschhorn, at the back of the very steep Bietsch Valley

Just visible in the very steep Bietsch Valley is the railway bridge of the BLS South Ramp line. 

Also down in the Rhône Valley we get a look at the cliff church at Raron.  

Now we've arrived back in Eischoll

There are many of these old wooden buildings in Eischoll. The small one here is the old mill. 

Under the mill, you can see how the old gear was operated by the stream.

Across the roof-tops of Eischoll you can see the snow-covered peaks to the east up the Rhône Valley  (I believe)

Main square in Eischoll

Main square in Eischoll

A look over the rooftops of Eischoll village as we head west toward Ergisch. We thought this might be one of the meadows featuring the special flower, but there were none. The view is up the Rhône Valley. 

Across the valley a train from the BLS Railway (Bern-Lötschberg-Simplon) line is just crossing one of the fabulous viaducts. (Luogelkin viaduct)

We saw several of these beautiful Eurasian Jays as we walked through the forest toward Ergisch

We got all excited when we spotted the first meadow saffron flowers! This was in a place called the Ifil Meadow. 

There were a few flowers here and there. Either we were too late to see the large meadows full, or we were at the wrong place. 

On the road to Ergisch. At least it was a very beautiful and pleasant spring day to do this hike!

Arriving in Ergisch

We could have walked another 45 minutes to the train station in Turtmann, but we had already walked 2 hrs and 40 minutes, and preferred to take the bus from Ergisch. 

Last stop before heading back to the valley, the little town of Ergisch. We had enough time to look at all the houses before our bus came. 

Some very nice blossoming bushes as we look across the rooftop of the church in Ergisch. 

A look down the Rhône Valley. On that clearing across the Turtmann Valley is the village of Unterems.  

Up and down the alleyways of Ergisch

These cow bells are trophies from the Eringer Cow Fighting Championships. Eringer Cows are a breed from this area, and it is in their nature to fight (females only) to show their superiority in the herds.

I guess these are supposed to represent the Valais Black-Nosed sheep, the most popular breed in this region. 

And now a look up the Turtmann Valley! 

And a zoomed view of Unterems across the Turtmann Valley. 

On our way by bus now to the Turtmann train station. (It was a woman driver and she took the many curves so fast that I felt ill. I should have said something. We had loads of time to spare before the train arrived, and she got us there earlier than the scheduled time...) On the air strip below are the words "Dort ist ein Mann", which is probably where the name "Turtmann" came from. 

From the train station in Turtmann, a look at the village of Ergisch on the hillside.

What the hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps. 

Where Eischoll and Ergisch are located in Switzerland. 

Trans-Swiss Trail from Laupen to Murten in Western Switzerland

(This post was published on Dec.7, 2023)

Sunday April 10, 2016 -- This area in Western Switzerland is one we don’t see much. On this Sunday we did a non-strenuous 14 km hike from Laupen to Murten (crossing the borders of Cantons Bern and Fribourg a couple of times), mostly through woods and fields and a nature reserve where we glimpsed a couple of birds that use Switzerland only as a stop-over on their migratory tour.

Laupen and Murten are both medieval cities with fortresses, city walls and lovely old buildings. At the fortress in Laupen there is a beautiful model of a full-sized catapult weighing almost 6 tons. Its fling arm is 10 meters long and it can sling 13-kg stones over 100 meters. Murten (also called Morat in French) on Lake Murten is much the larger town and very popular, especially on a sunny Sunday afternoon! The main street of Murten reminds me of a mini-Bern, with its covered arched walkways and cellar shops. You can walk along the old city wall for a striking view across the red-tiled roofs of the city.

It took us 4.5 hours to walk the 14 km. The route we took is part of the National Trail no.2: "Trans Swiss Trail", the entire Section 8.

PART I: Discovering Laupen

(The town of Laupen lies directly on the Canton border. It is located in Canton Bern, but almost directly to the south is the Canton border with Fribourg).

The starting point of our trip, the small town of Laupen (2000 residents) with its fortress. This is in Canton Bern. We started here at 10:30

Heading into the old town of Laupen through the city gate

A lovely town square

Continuing on into the castle grounds

Looking over the castle walls at the rooftops of Laupen

Looking over the castle walls at the old town of Laupen

Inside the castle grounds in Laupen

Here's that fantastic model of a catapult used in the medieval days; it weighs 6 tons and can sling 13kg rocks over 100m.

Heading back down into the old town again

Very nice half-timbered houses!

Main street in old town Laupen, looking up to the town church. (The current church building is from 1734)

There were lots of these metal sculptures in all different places! So cute!

This would be more of an Emmental-Style house. 

This is an unusual style of house. You don't see a lot of houses with verandas around here. 

PART II: 14-km walk from Laupen to Murten

We left Laupen at about 11:10 and headed westward, soon crossing the canton borders into Canton Fribourg. We got to Murten at 3:40 p.m. Strict walking time would be 3½ hours. We took longer because we spent some time observing the birds in the Auried Nature Reserve and stopping for a picnic lunch

It took us 40 minutes walking on the east side of the Saane River to reach the bridge. The river on the right side forms the border with the two cantons Fribourg (on this side) and Bern on the other side, whereas on the left side of the bridge it's all Canton Fribourg!

Crossing the Saane River. The borders are weird here. Everying to the south is Canton Fribourg on both sides, but after we crossed the bridge, we returned to Canton Bern for about two kilometers, before crossing again into Canton Fribourg. 

The Auried Nature Reserve just west of the Saane River, and in Canton Fribourg just south of the border line. This is apparently home to the rare European Tree Frog

It was fun to observe birds we had never seen before! The one with the long bill is called a Common Snipe (Bekassine), and the one with the long feather on its head is called a Northern Lapwing (Kiebitz)

A large information board in the bird hide gives details on the types of birds you can observe here. 

The next community we got to is called Liebistorf. If you weren't looking, you might have missed it, but this farmer managed to "write" the name of the town in the field!

This is the next village along the way, it is called Liebistorf. 

Village chapel in Liebistorf

This fellow watching us sure made me smile!

It's always nice to find a bench in the sun (or in the shade in summer!) where we can stop for a lunch or coffee break. This was at 1:15 p.m.

A large section of our hike was through such forested areas. It was nice with lots of sunshine because the trees don't have leaves yet. 

On one of the farming roads, we came across this bird having a good time in a puddle! It's called a White Wagtail (Bachstelze)

VIDEO:

Wagtail bathing in a puddle!

After a long stretch through the forest, we reach farmland just east of Murten

And what a great view of the Bernese Alps (Eiger/Mönch/Jungfrau) to the south!

Across Lake Murten to the West we can just make out the Jura Mountains. The snow-covered peaks are quite visible. 

Coming toward the end of our hike, a view of Lake Murten and the city of Murten with its many towers.

A close-up look at Murten on Lake Murten, Canton Fribourg.

PART III: Discovering Murten

Now we have reached the Murten castle and the entrance to the old town on the south side. It's now 3:40 p.m. 

Main street in Murten wth the town clock above the northern gate. 

The arched covered walkways with the many shops are typical of this area

This passage between two parallel streets contained antique 2nd-hand objects for sale!

Now that is a cute vehicle!

The fronts of the shops on one of the old town streets. 

Heading toward the town wall, which encompasses the entire southeastern side of the old town. The wall is open to the public to go up on the ramparts. Apparently, the lower 15 layers of stone date from before the town's construction in the 12th Century.

The old city wall of Murten. You can walk up along here with a stunning view across the red-tiled roofs.

From the walkway along the tow wall, you look over the roofs of old town Murten

A look through the ramparts along the town wall to the castle to the west, and Lake Murten

A look across the rooftops to the northwest, with another view of the snow-capped Jura range

This is what our hike looks like on Google Satellite Maps

On the way home, after leaving Luzern, the train passes by the lake called Rotsee (Red Lake) with a nice view of Mount Pilatus.

Final stretch along Lake Zug before we arrive in our home city of Zug. What a beautiful spring day, with such clear views of the Central Alps!