April 2, 2021

A Stroll from Eischoll to Unterbäch to see the "Flowers of Light"

Three-Day Trip to Visp Region in Canton Valais:

We were lucky to have some very nice weather pretty well all over the country on the Easter weekend, so we treated ourselves to a two-night hotel stay in Canton Valais in the Visp region, because we were certain that there were many opportunities for hiking there. As it turns out, we did three very different hikes of about three hours each, walked about 35 km in those three days, and saw and learned about some wonderful things, and visited loads of typical Valais villages. And the hotel was great: Superb view; our own balcony; quiet; and the option of taking our meals in the hotel's restaurant. For us, it is ideal that only hotel guests can eat at the restaurant. So much quieter that way!

Friday April 2, 2021 -- Day 1 of our three-day trip: A Stroll from Eischoll to Unterbäch to see the "Flowers of Light"

The rare flower called Spring Meadow Saffron is found in particular abundance in Canton Valais, and mostly so in the meadows around the mountain village of Eischoll. The highly poisonous flowers emerge as soon as the snow melts and last only a few days. As there were still many large patches of snow on this shady side of the Rhône Valley, we were treated to loads and loads of flowers in the early stages of their bloom. This is my third time in this village to come see these flowers, but this timing was the best so far. 

After doing the short themed loop called "Lichtblumenweg" specifically created to bring you to the most prolific meadows, we ascended along the old irrigation channel -- the water was running, which is always a treat -- and via partly snow-covered trails through clearings and forests to the next village called Unterbäch, enjoying many more sightings of the flowers along the way.

... and also, a snake surprised us on the trail! It moved across the trail so quickly that I couldn't gather my wits quickly enough to take a photo! More than likely it was a simple and harmless grass snake, but there are poisonous vipers here that look pretty much the same!

To get to the mountain village of Eischoll, you go up with a cable-way from Raron in the Rhône Valley. Across the valley is the reknowned castle church (there is another section of the church built wholly into the cliff below). Also, behind it is the Bietsch Valley, where we also have done several hikes. 

Approaching the mountain village of Eischoll in the cable car

The old mill in Eischoll. There are many buildings like this here

Following the designated "Lichtblumenweg" we were not disappointed. There were vast fields of these flowers in full bloom!

Spending a lot of time admiring the "Flowers of Light"

There were a few other people up here enjoying and photographing the flowers, like we were

Just a sampling of the many photos I took of these pretty flowers!

On our loop back toward the village

Greetings!

The flowers come out shortly after the snow melts! Here is what is left of the ski run, which we crossed again later on our way eastward again.

Heading up to the old irrigation channel now (Suone) for our hike higher up and eastward to Unterbäch. Down below in the town of Raron you can see the scar of a very recent and large rockslide (29th of January 2021)


The first time we were here, we walked westward to Ergisch and missed most of the flowers. This is the second time I am walking on the "Suonenweg" (irrigation trail) and Urs' first time. (Direction Breitmattu)

After a loop to the east of Eischoll, we headed west again, and then along the "Old Irrigation Trail". There was too much snow to complete the Irrigation Trail, so we crossed the ravine further down and headed to Unterbäch. Obviously, we took longer than three hours for this!

I was so happy that there was water running in the irrigation channel! 

There was much more snow than last time I was here (April 22, 2018)

We had to cross the ski hill where the snow takes longer to melt. So we did get in a "Snow Hike" after all this year!

All along the irrigation channel were sections of the hillside where the Spring Meadow Saffron flowers were also coming out after the receding winter snow!

The snow has just recently melted here.

Once in a while there is a white version of the flower as well!

A look downhill into the Rhône Valley

It was just before this loop that we surprised the snake on the path! As we progressed along the trail, we were always unsure if we would run into so much snow that we'd have to turn back!

(As an aside, this is what the snake looked like -- photo from the Internet. This is a "smooth snake", but the poisonous asp viper looks very similar, but has slit pupils instead of round ones. We didn't get a close enough look at the eyes....)

Smooth Snake (Schlingnatter)


On the large open sunny plateau called "Breitmattu" we stopped for a coffee break, and imagined the summer ambiance with cows! (There is a mountain dairy here)

This is how large the flowers are!

From here we head further uphill and into the little ravine, before heading back downhill to Unterbäch. 

Several summer homes and old barns along the trail

It has become fashionable to renovate these old barns into small residences. The insides are pretty modern, but the outside features must be maintained.

Some of the buildings aren't worth rescuing any more!

This is the place we cross the ravine. After that, the climb through the forest was totally snow-free

We planned our hike so that our trail passed through this tiny hamlet called "Holz". It was very charming, and we were glad we risked it!

Even up here were many large fields of the Spring Meadow Saffron Flowers

The hamlet of Holz

Every once in a while we see these wood carvings of ugly masks called "Tschäggättä" which originate in the Lötschental Valley to the North of the Rhône Valley

A look back to the buildings in the hamlet called Holz. The meadows here are full of flowers as well.

A steep descent to Unterbäch. The cable car runs once an hour (connecting to the train to Visp), and our timing will be tight once again!

Below us the town of Unterbäch. The cable car station is next to the church.


Made it with not quite five minutes to spare!

Heading back down to the town of Raron. This gorge is very narrow and deep, and the cable car supports are simply built on the cliffs along the way.

In Raron are two cable cars side-by-side. The one on the left is where we ascended to Eischoll, the one on the right is the one that descends from Unterbäch.

The three-hour loop we did on the sunny plateau between Eischoll and Unterbäch. From here it's not far to Visp and to our hotel in Visperterminen

From the cable-way stations it is a five-minute walk to the Raron train station, and then a short train ride to Visp, from where we took a bus up to the high mountain village of Visperterminen, where we had booked two nights at the Rothorn Hotel. We hadn't made any plans yet for the excursion for the next day, but the bus ride took us past the Heida Vineyards, allegedly the highest in Europe, and so a walk in that direction is what we planned for DAY 2.

Passing the 35-hectare contiguous vineyards (total 45 hectares), some of the highest-growing grapes in Europe (the vineyards lie between 650 and 1150m above sea level)

This town called Niederhäusern is one of many such villages here along the hillside, so we decided this would be part of our excursion the next day as well.

Our hotel in Visperterminen (Hotel Rothorn). We had a very nice room on the top floor. The chair lift is right next to the hotel, but not running at this time of year. And since no day-visitors are allowed in the restaurant, there was no one using the outdoor terrace below the balcony. Perfect for us!

The view from our hotel balcony at 6 p.m.!

The area of Canton Valais where we spent three days. This is not far from the Matterhorn (Zermatt), which we have seen before. We did not make a trip that way, expecting there to be many people over the Easter Weekend. 





3 comments:

Pauline said...

Hi Gabriella and Urs,
To begin with: during the past months when no reports showed up I was slightly worried that something might be not OK... But now I'm reasured, since you posted several wonderful stories! Like this one about your trip to Eischoll. I loved the pictures of the "Lichtblumen"-flowers! I have aways thought that those flowers were a kind of commercial boost of the area, but seeing your photos I must admit that it just is the real thing! I have been to Eischoll in Autumn 2019 (https://paulinehikes.come/eischoll-a-walk-through-the-village-and-along-the-suonenweg/) and I loved it. (No signs of those crocusses of course, but just some ambiguous skiing-remeniscences from long ago came up...). Thank you for showing me those marvellous delicate violet starlets. At "Breitmattu" I continued my walk along another Suone to the village of Unterbäch, not only a nice hike but also to a village which proclamed itself as the "Rütlischwur der Frauen" - the Confederation oath of the Ladies! Even as I'm not quite a feminist, it was fascinating...
In the year 2018 I went to Visperterminen on a day trip - and I loved it! Not only the bus ride from Visp (a wonderful city centre by the way!) to the village, passing the vineyards, but also the chairlift to GIW with the round walk, also nice with autumn colours (https://paulinehikes.com/visperterminen-a-small-village-with-a-great-panorama/)
Keep on hiking and blogging - I certainly love it!
Best regards,
Pauline

Sorry for all those hyperlinks to my own trips...!

SwissTravelGirl said...

Hi Pauline! I am happy to get your hyperlinks, but the one for Eischoll doesn't seem to work. I also tried to send you a message on your website, but it did not go through...

Mme Howson said...

Hi!

Those flowers are beautiful and the pizza looks delicious!