Winter Hike along the Senda Sursilvana Trail from Sedrun to Disentis

Thursday December 8, 2022 -- In the Catholic Cantons of Switzerland, this day was a holiday, so another chance for us for an excursion. We chose well this time, heading right to the center of the Alps to the Surselva Region of Canton Graubünden, where the Rhine River has its source.

This was our first snow hike of the season, one which we did several years ago but which was worth doing again, because there is a lot of sunshine here in winter. The trail here from Sedrun to Disentis is part of the "Senda Sursilvana" and is a prepared winter trail  considered to be THE classic winter hike in this region. It was a 10 kilometer walk which under normal circumstances would take 2.5 hours, but walking on snow, even when the trail is prepared, takes longer.

It was minus 3 degrees, so we had stockings and long underwear under our jeans, but at times it was too warm that way! But in the shadows we were glad for it.

We had another day of spectacular visibility, and considering that it was a holiday, there were relatively few people on the train. (Most of the ski lifts in the area are not yet operational). Besides the lovely walk, the train trip there and back from Andermatt over the Oberalp Pass with the popular Gotthard-Matterhorn train was spectacular as well. (Unfortunately, my camera cannot capture the white of the snow in the shadow areas, so those photos are all blue!)

(Side note: Here are two of my blog entries for hikes around the Oberalp Pass, which show the region without snow:  HERE and HERE)

A look down at the city of Andermatt in the Urseren Valley, as we head up to the Oberalp Pass at 9:30 in the morning

Wonderful sunshine up at the Oberalp Pass. We were alone in our wagon, and because some of the trains which run on the Gotthard-Matterhorn railway line are still the old ones with windows you can open, I spent most of the time leaning out the window!

Emerging from the avalanche gallery as we now head east down the Surselva Valley. This view is toward the Oberalp Pass. The Rhine River has its source here, at Lake Toma in the dip in the mountains at the center. 

Another look behind us at the village of Selva, in shadow for several weeks in winter!

The trees are so beautiful covered in snow like this! Since the sun doesn't reach here, the snow doesn't melt. 

Approaching the town of Sedrun where we are starting on our approx. 3-hour walk. The valley is wider here and the villages get more sunshine. 

Some additional interesting information about the Sedrun-Disentis Trail which we are walking this day. 

10:30 start at the train station in Sedrun, with the first glimpse of some of the fabulous peaks around here. 

Walking through Sedrun, admiring the houses and Christmas decorations!

Town of Sedrun

Admiring the houses in Sedrun

Another look past the town of Sedrun toward the mountains near the Oberalp Pass. From here we head east on our 10-km winter walk. 

The 10-km trail from Sedrun to Disentis (no.258) is the Classic Winter Hike in this part of the Surselva Valley

Crossing the railway viaduct east of Sedrun

Another look back toward the west, toward the Oberalp Pass

The snow on the prepared trail was dry and exactly what one would expect from a winter walking trail (not melted, soft or icy)

VIDEO:

There were many benches along the trail, and when we stopped for lunch, we checked the train schedule: There was a train leaving Sedrun right around that time and coming our way. So I waited for it, to capture it on video. (Also, you can see Urs sitting on the bench on the right).

Enjoying our winter snow hike with lots of sunshine and clear views of the mountains

Entering the village of Mumpé Tujetsch

For such a small chapel, there were some really fascinating details inside! Especially the medieval lock system on the door.

The winter trail no.258 is aptly named "Sedrun-Disentis Trail". In summer it is part of the St.James Trail no.43 and the "Senda Sursilvana " trail no.85. 

Our first glimpse of the city of Distentis, where we will end out hike. The large 1400-year-old Benedictine Monastery is a dominant landmark of this city. 

Down below is the train station for the village of Segnas, which is actually not near the station. 

On the other side of the Rhine River is the small village of Mumpé Medel at the entrance of the side valley called Medel Valley, which we have yet to discover. 

A detour off the main trail to visit the village of Medel. I was impressed with the very clear definition of "sunny side" and "shady side" of this tree!

A look back toward the village of Segnas as we continue on to Disentis

More lovely houses

A look behind us, this time into the Segnas Valley

Oh look, we found another shop selling cheese and home-made ice cream! But only bought the cheese this time. 

Heading South. Across from us on the other side of the Rhine River is the Medel Valley, which you can travel to the Lukmanier Pass (Passo di Lucomagno). 

On the outskirts of the city of Disentis

A short and shady ravine before reaching Disentis

For Urs, any train bridge, tunnel or viaduct is fascinating

Passing the San Gions parish church, but had no time to look into it, as we really wanted to get on the 2:15 train, and it was now 2:05!! It apparently also has an interesting Baroque interior. I'm looking forward to checking it out another time. 

We were greeted with a lovely rendition of a Christmas carol as we passed this beautiful Carillon next to the church.  

This is the second time we walke the Sedrun-Disentis section in winter. We have hiked various sections between Andermatt and Disentis (and further east), with several visits to Lake Toma (Lai da Tuma / Tomasee), the source of the Posterior Rhine River. 

We were finished with our walk relatively early and boarded the train at 2:15 p.m., which was intentional as we didn't want to be caught in an early sundown again, and were hoping for some sunshine for the train ride back over the Oberalp Pass to Andermatt. The train ride back to Andermatt was just as magnificent as the ride to Sedrun and our 3-hour walk....

Traveling in winter is best when the trees are all covered in snow!

Heading back toward Sedrun

Going over the train viaduct which we had crossed on foot about four hours earlier

A look back at Sedrun and the Rhine Valley where we did our 3-hour walk, as the train now heads up toward the Oberalp Pass

VIDEO:

On the train heading West from Sedrun

VIDEO:

The beautiful snow-covered trees in the very narrow and shady Surselva Valley, on the way to the Oberalp Pass

Here and there a bit of sunshine in this otherwise shady valley!

Approaching the village of Selva, still in shadow!

Passing the fabulous Curnera Dam, where we did one of our most spectacular hikes in September 2021, those photo are HERE

Just before the Oberalp Pass. The valley on the right leads up to Lake Toma, which is the source of the Rhine River. We have hiked here many times. 

And now we are heading West toward the Ursuren Valley and Andermatt. It's 3 p.m., and there is a lot of sun up here. This is a large skiing region, but the cable-ways weren't in operation yet, so good for us, as there were only a few people "on the road". 

A look back toward the Oberalp Pass

VIDEO:

The sunny stretch from the Oberalp Pass down to the city of Andermatt:

Final approach to Andermatt. 3:15 p.m, and the sun will disappear soon. This is also one of our favourite valleys.

VIDEO:

Heading through the Schöllenen Gorge by Train on the way down to the Reuss Valley. 

Location of the Andermatt-OberalpPass-Disentis region in the heart of the Swiss Alps

Valais Sunshine Trail between Brig and Visp

Wednesday December 7, 2022 -- It being so close to the shortest day of the year, it is difficult to judge how long we will have sunshine in the mountains, based on how low the sun is!

We took a trip to Canton Valais, in the Brig/Visp region, as the southern flanks of the mountains in the Rhône Valley get lots of sunshine, great for hiking in winter even when the air temperature is just over freezing.... We had planned on two separate hikes with a 45-minute bus ride in between, and it was difficult to decide which to do first. I thought I had made the correct decision, but it turns out that by the time we got to the second hike in Gampel at 2 p.m., the sun was just going down behind the mountains. (We ended up not finishing the second hike as originally planned).

The first hike was very good though. We started at 10:30 in Birgisch near Brig and walked along the "Sunshine Trail" (aptly named) via Mund, know for its saffron harvest, possibly the only place in Central Europe where the expensive spice is still harvested according to old tradition. The plan was to walk down to the valley-bottom village of Lalden near Visp and take the bus from there to Gampel. But the valley bottom was still in shadow by the time we were near there. My intuition was that we should have stayed up high on the "Sunshine Trail" where there was sunshine till 4 p.m., but Urs wanted to see the irrigation channels in Gampel. The fact that the mountainside there was in shadow by the time we got there, and no water was running anyway, made the rest of the trip rather disappointing. Nevertheless, we had plenty of sunshine on this short December day. 

(Side Note: As we like to try out local products on our various excursions around the country,  and because the local shop owner in Mund especially opened her village shop for us "after hours", we bought the most expensive noodles I've ever had: Saffron Noodles, 10 CHF for a 250g bag of noodles! Well, no surprise, as Saffron costs more per gram than gold!)

Oh, and we saw many Valais Black-Nosed Sheep! Some still in the pastures, most in their small stables in the village centers....

Most of the northern part of Switzerland was under a think blanket of fog. Only here between Spiez and the Lötschberg Tunnel in the Bernese Oberland, there was a bit of break in the fog as we traveled through there. 

From Brig by bus to Birgisch, and we join Trail no.61: "Walliser Sonnenweg", or "Valais Sunshine Trail", a favourite of ours in winter because there is really a lot of sunshine, and in summer it's too hot to walk here. Heading to Mund via the Gredetsch Valley. Started at 10:30 

It's a perfect day for this hike, we have really good visibility of the mountains to the West (this view) and to the East. 

Heading up through Birgisch toward the Gredetsch Valley. Behind me the mountains of the Rhône Valley to the East, and the road up to the Simplon Pass

We saw many of these cute Valais Black-Nose Sheep, some in the pastures, many in the small barns. 

This was one of the two hikes we wanted to do this day, only 2-1/4 hours, (the second was 1-1/4). In retrospect, we should have stayed on the Sunshine trail to Eggerberg and possibly further on. But we took our time for this, and had lots of sunshine. 

On the other side of the Gredetsch Valley to the West is the village of Mund, known for its saffron harvest. 

There are about six irrigation channels transporting water out of the Gredetsch Valley. We have been on the upper channels several times. This is the first time we walked along the lowest one. It was a short detour into the valley, and we had more sun than expected. 

Heading out of the Gredetsch Valley again, a view toward Birgisch where we started. You can see the road we walked, and the irrigation channel below it. 

There were hundreds of choughs in Mund, we don't know why.... 

Heading into the village of Mund, in the lower section where we had not yet been. Always new things to discover. 

A look down to valley bottom to the city of Brig. A large part of the valley bottom here is in the shadow of the mountains for a few weeks in winter. 

It's always fun to watch vehicles navigate the narrow streets in these villages. 

A beautiful brand new stone building amongst the old wooden structures

All throughout the villages are these special barns, many of which are being converted into domiciles. 

Village of Mund

Center of the village, what a beautiful view of the Alps to the south 

The little village shop actually closed at 11:30, and we got there just about at that time. The owner let us in just the same. We were looking for a saffron specialty, and had seen her advertisement for the saffron noodles, so we purchased a pack for 10:50 CHF! There were surely other specialties, but we didn't want to bother the shop-keeper any more. 

The flocks of choughs are still circling above the village

The Mund Saffron Museum. We have passed this many times, have never been in it, though

Another look down at the city of Brig, in the shadows. The elevation we are currently at is the ideal for a sunny winter hike. 

Information panels along the way tell of the saffron harvest. The flowers still grow naturally here (the only place in Switzerland) as the ground is ideal. Villagers collect the flowers in Oct-Nov. and pluck the saffron strands by hand. Harvest is about 2 kg total. That's why the spice is so expensive. It also requires thousands of flowers for that much saffron. 

It is illegal for passersby to pick the saffron flowers. You can be fined 500 CHF if you do so. The harvest is a livelihood for many of these villagers. 

From Mund we walked through the forest to the next village of Waflei. We were pleasantly surprised at how pretty it was here. 

Heading down the village street in Waflei (this is a look behind us).

The villagers here seem to decorate the village for everyone's enjoyment. 

Admiring the Christmas decorations in the mountain village of Waflei

Just a couple of wooden stars set outside an old barn makes all the difference!

Another look at the mountains to the east 

Our picnic lunch spot.

Continuing down the trail we came across this interesting chapel built directly into the cliffs. 

Inside the stone chapel, built into the cliff wall

For a short section we followed the Badneri Irrigation channel, which is one of the channels drawing water out of the Gredetsch Valley. 

As this region has little rain and is very dry, these irrigations channels were a necessity of life for many centuries, and required a lot of work to build, such as here, hewn out of the rock. Many of them are still in use, but in winter, the water flow is often "turned off". 

Down below us is the little train station of Lalden on the Bern-Lötschberg-Simplon (BLS) Railway line called the South Ramp. Our trail heads down there. Below us is the city of Visp (mainly the large Lonza industrial compound) which only gets a couple of hours of sunshine in winter.  

I was hoping that the village of Lalden would have the sunshine by the time we got here at 1:15 p.m., but we could see we wouldn't have sun by 1:30 when we had to catch the bus. I would have preferred to continue along the railway tracks above the shadows, but Urs wanted to see the other irrigation channels in Gampel 

Christmas Nativity Scene in the village of Lalden. 

Side note: Back in February 2017 I did a hike on my own, starting in the village of Lalden and walking up to the railway line (reverse of what we did this day) and continuing along the sunshine trail to Eggerberg and Ausserberg, what I would have liked to repeat this day. Those photos are HERE.  There were definitely more hours of sunshine in February than in December!

It was about 7 km to walk from Birgisch to Lalden. We timed it well to catch the 13:30 bus to Visp (having started at 10:30 for the 2-1/4 hour hike)

The region of the Sunshine Trail is a popular one for us, because it is easy to reach in about 3 hours from home. We chose the trail from Birgisch to Lalden on purpose this way, because we hadn't walked that stretch yet. 

From Lalden we took a bus to Visp (15 minutes) and had to wait 20 minutes there for our connecting bus. Within 10 minutes of getting there, we lost the sunshine. Then another 25-minute bus ride to Gampel where we wanted to start our second hike. It was tough seeing the sunshine on the hillside where I had wanted to continue hiking.  

Heading West by bus, there is so much sunshine still on the hillside here in the Baltschieder Valley. I would have preferred to continue our walk up there just above the shadows and along the railway line. But we had walked into that valley several times already. 

Passing through Raron with its renowned chapel on the hill. The Austrian poet Rainer Maria Rilke is buried here. 

By 2:30 p.m. we reached Gampel for the start of our second hike where the trail would take us up and past the chapel on the hill. Not 10 minutes later, the hillside was in shadow. It goes that quickly!

The second hike we did was another 4 km, but wasn't actually what we wanted to do. Starting at the base station of the Jeizinen cableway we wanted to walk the "lower" then the "upper" water channels, then continue further west to the next village called Niedergampel but I saw no point to this anymore, so we returned to the village and caught the bus straight up northward through the Lonza Valley to the train station in Goppenstein. 

Part of the "Lower Channel" (Untere Wasserleite). 

Looking toward the east, it was pretty clear we should have started here at 10:30, and done the second hike later in the day!

Heading westward along the Upper Water Channel (Obere Wasserleite), I decided I would prefer to try this again when the water is running and the sun shining here! So we returned to the valley bottom instead of continuing on to Niedergampel

Well, it's 3 p.m. now, and the day is pretty well finished here! This is actually two cities, Gampel and Steg. We returned to the city center and caught a bus north at 15:45, and got back home at 7:15 p.m.