September 25, 2016

Hike to Lake Toma, the source of the mighty Rhine River

A little over a year ago I did this 13 km, 4-hour hike on my own. Urs has probably hiked most of the 60,000 km of hiking trails in Switzerland but he had never been to the source of the Rhine River, so this is what we decided to do on this beautiful Sunday (Sept.25).

An excursion to this area on the border of the two provinces Uri and Graubünden always starts with a cogwheel train ride from the popular ski village of Andermatt in the Urseren Valley to the Oberalp Pass. This in itself is always worth the trip. 

The hike takes you up a steep zigzag path to the funnel-shaped valley wherein lies a jewel of a lake (Tomasee) which you have no idea is even up here. It's a popular destination for a Sunday outing but none-the-less peaceful, and overwhelming to think you are at the start of one of Europe's most important rivers, flowing about 1300 km through six countries to empty into the North Sea. (Technically there are two sources of the Rhine. This one, the Vorderrhein, is the longer of the two).

At this time of year, the moorish landscape high above the treeline is turning bright red, rust and yellow colours, and in every direction the landscape is stunning. We continued on from the lake a bit further back into the valley and walked through these upland moors before returning to the Oberalp Pass for our train ride back home (only 2.5 hours each way).

Gotthard-Matterhorn Train stretch from Andermatt to the Oberalp Pass in the Central Alps.

At the start of our hike, looking Eastward, this is the road that descends from the Oberalp Pass into the Surselva Valley.

Surselva Valley in the background (Sedrun to Disentis). The Rhine starts here and flows down that valley toward the East.

I love the high alpine landscape (2300m, 7500 ft.)

View just before reaching Toma Lake. This whole basin drains into the Vorderrhein, the source of the Rhine River, which flows out the valley in the back right.

Last few steps before reaching Lake Toma.

This is the Tomasee (Lake Toma or in native language: "Lai da Tuma"), the source of the Rhine River.

The funnel valley wherein lies Lake Toma, the Source of the Rhine River. 

We walked the 10 minutes to the back of the lake where there is a soft peaty area, perfect for a picnic lunch. On the way a sign indicates that the Rhine flows 1320 km to its exit at the North Sea, but measurements done a few years ago have the total length at 1230 km. But still.

Heading to the back of Lake Toma.


This is our picnic spot at the back of Lake Toma.

This is our picnic spot at the back of Lake Toma.

This is our picnic spot at the back of Lake Toma.

Heading back to the front of the lake where the stream tumbles down and starts on its journey as the Vorderrhein River.

This is where the stream leaves the lake to become the Rhine River. 

This is where the stream leaves the lake to become the Rhine River. 

After lunch at the lake, we head further on into the valley to the moor lakes before returning to the Oberalp Pass.
(Total hike = 13 km, 4 hours)
Moor landscape of the basin that empties into the Vorderrhein River.

We are hiking a bit further back into the valley before returning to the Oberalp Pass


We are hiking a bit further back into the valley before returning to the Oberalp Pass

Walking back to the Oberalp Pass through this beautiful moor landscape.

Walking back to the Oberalp Pass through this beautiful moor landscape.
This is the start of the Rhine River. The Toma Lake is above, and from here you'd not even know it.

Walking back to the Oberalp Pass through this beautiful moor landscape.

Last stretch of our hike on the left heading to the Oberalp Pass to catch the train back.

And again the beautiful landscape on the way back to Andermatt, and from there through the Reuss Valley to home.

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