A climb to two Mountain Villages above the Magadino Plain

Monday June 15, 2020 -- Another vacation week for us: That means some hiking, although the weather forecast is not as reliable as previously, and has turned cold and rainy for us...

Except in Canton Ticino, where we at least could count on that it would not rain. 

Every time we cross the Magadino Plain by train we can see a small stone church perched high on the hillside, about 700m above the valley. Our map showed us there is an actual community called Monti di Ditto in a clearing up there, hidden from view from below. We have long wanted to go have a look, so that was the plan. We could have saved ourselves 150m of the 500m climb if we had taken the longer way along the road (which snakes up to that village and even beyond), but who wants to walk uphill for 4 km on asphalt?? So instead we picked the steep way up, 90 minutes straight uphill through overgrown forest on what turned out to be a pretty humid day!

But the climb was worth it, the village was very very pretty, and the view over Lago Maggiore from the little church a fantastic backdrop for an early picnic lunch. We did get a bit of a shock when we peeked into the window of what we thought was a chapel, expecting to see an altar with candles, and instead finding out this was an ossuary, or a depository of bones from hundreds of skeletons... makes you wonder where all those people came from, up here out of the way?

Before heading down again, we walked another hour to another such hamlet called Bazzadee, which consisted of several ruined houses (harder to keep up because no road access) but some very nice ones as well. The steep trail around a ravine is the official trail between the two villages, but it was covered with leaves and washed out in places. Seems hardly anyone has walked this trail in a while! I marvel at how the people who own the houses up here make the trip up....

The 700 m descent through the chaotic forest took 90 minutes, and we were reminded by many blackened trees of the forest fire here on New Year's Eve 2018, an event that sticks in our minds as even then we had planned to hike up here, and wondered if the fire would do damage in the communities....

We often travel across the Magadino Plain and have noticed a stone church on the level area. There is a small village up there, hidden by the trees

We started our hike in Agarone, 150m above the valley bottom. So had only another 500m to climb! The stairs on this house are granite slabs built into the wall.

Lots of colorful gardens. This dark-blue / purple is my favourite color for hydrangeas

Flowering succulents

The view over the Magadino Plain and Lago Maggiore before we start our steep climb

The ascent through the unkempt forest to Monti di Ditto took us 90 minutes. From there the walk along the steep ravine "Valle de Carca" to Bazzadee took another hour, and the descent to the train station at Gordola took another 90 minutes. 

First a long set of steep stairs through the vineyards, and then afterwards the forest trail

Rough forest trail past some abandoned buildings... Urs' eyes aren't so good, he didn't see the leaves covering my face for this picture!

A view to the lake through the trees near the seemingly abandoned houses

It didn't matter what the weather was like outside of the dense forest!

After spending some time in Monti di Ditto, we are going to continue to Bazzadee

Lots of very nicely renovated old buildings up here

Some of the properties have brand new features

Here's the little church that we always see from the valley bottom!

Magnificent views, and we were pretty lucky with the weather! We weren't expecting a lot of sunshine, but it was actually quite warm

A good place to have lunch with this magnificent view over Lago Maggiore, with Locarno on the right on the Maggia Delta

 

Before heading back down the mountain, we will walk to the other village tucked away in the forest up here: Bazzadee. It's about an hour to walk

Enjoying a final view up at the church before heading through the village and on to Bazzadee. Behind me is an intriguing-looking structure, like a small chapel. Worth having a look.

We weren't sure if this structure was private or public, but we had a look anyway. It seems like the front used to be open, and got sealed up with stones. We expected an altar and candles inside

It was a bit of a surprise and a shock when we saw what was inside: This is obviously an ossuary, but where did all the bones come from, in this secluded area on the mountain?

A very interesting staircase! I would like to have something like this

Many of the houses have frescoes or other paintings on the outside walls. This one looks like Mona Lisa

On the far side of the village from the church

Lots of stone and old frescoes

A bit of colour here and there

Back in the dense forest on the way to Bazzadee, there are lots of lush ferns in the warm and humid climate

Always a challenge

Some of the guard rails along this narrow and steep trail don't instill a lot of confidence!

 

You can just see the church in Monti di Ditto from across the ravine

 

Zoomed view of the Church

Now for some time wandering around the collection of buildings called Bazzadee

Looks like maybe that little one is being built up all new?

This one was the prettiest in the village

Another great view onto the lake

 

Looking down at Urs, because he has just taken a photo of me....

 

..... at the top of the stairs of this house!

There is another even larger village higher up, called Monti di Motti, but we have been there before. From here we're going down to Gordola, another 90 minutes and 700m descent

We descended through a large section of forest which showed the effects of the large forest fire of Dec.31, 2018

Near the valley bottom the vegetation changes to lush and tropical, like these healthy-looking banana trees!

We always find "unofficial" trails, i.e. shortcuts, like this dense palm-filled grove!

This south-facing hill has lots of sunshine (we come here a lot in winter) and is ideal for growing grapes to make a special Pinot Noir (strict guidelines i.e. 1 kg of grapes per cubic meter of land)

Approaching the church in Sant'Antonio, near the train station in Gordola

Sant'Antonio Abate: Regal on the outside, rather plain on the inside

Each colour is a different hike we have done on this hillside over the last 7 years. The yellow one is new and is the first time we have been this high up. 

The Appenzell Alpine Trail from Schwägalp to Urnäsch

Friday June 12, 2020 -- Eight days since the last hike, it was high time to get out on the trails again! And this single nice day between two stretches of rainy and cold weather could not have been more perfect! Even with a strong wind, the air temperature was mild, and most spectacularly, the stretch of rain had cleared the air for a far-reaching crisp view that we hadn't had for a long time.

The weather was best in the northeastern part of the country, as we also evidenced on our hike looking South to the Alps where there were clouds hanging low over the peaks. Here at the foot of the Alpstein Massif in Appenzell, the landscape is unique as you find yourself with views of two totally different landscapes: Low hills and the vast flat expanse of Germany past the large lake Bodensee (Lake Constance) to the North, and row upon row of spectacular pre-alpine mountain ranges to the South, including the Churfirsten, the Glarus Alps, the Uri Alps and the mountains of Central Switzerland (Mythen, Rigi, Pilatus...). We have been in this area many times, and never have I seen the Bodensee so clearly.

We started at Schwägalp at the foot of the mighty Mount Säntis and walked the other half of the Appenzell Alpine Trail, having done the first section of the total 29-km loop in 2017. Other than the bus ride to Schwägalp (very popular destination), we met only about a dozen people on this trail. The trail was muddy at times from the previous rains, but not difficult to walk. Since we have also done many other hikes in this area, it was fun to see the other places we walked from a different "perspective". In all we walked the 15-km section in about 5 hours, with so much variety along the trail, that we didn't get tired at all. ... The only negative part of the hike were the final two kilometers to the train station at Urnäsch, which we had to do on paved roads.... 

On the way to Schwägalp we had to wait 20 minutes for the bus in Nesslau, enough time to quickly walk down the main street and look at some of the buildings, so very Swiss and typical for this area, which is part of the Toggenburg

In Nesslau-St.Johann, waiting for our bus to Schwägalp

At the Schwägalp Pass we walked the West side of the Appenzell Alpine Trail no.980 (15 km) to Urnäsch, having walked the East side near Mt. Kronberg in May 2017. The best part of the hike was on Hochalp, where we saw for miles upon miles both North and South

This trail marker shows 4 hours and 20 minutes to Urnäsch, but that was a quicker route. Our route was 4 hours 45 minutes.

This is the best time of year, with Swiss Cows in the blossoming meadows.

Sharing the trail with the cows! Sometimes it is intimidating when they run up the trail behind you!

A look backwards at Mount Säntis and Schwägalp, where we started on the pass road across from the Restaurant

Some sections of the trail were through marshy areas, built up with wooden boards but still wet from the rains

A look up at the road which comes up to the Schwägalp Pass from Urnäsch (We came up by bus from the other side). Across the valley is the other part of the Appenzell Alpine Trail

First view of Urnäsch below, the end of our day's hike. In the back to the North is Lake Bodensee (Lake Constance) and Germany on the other side of the lake

Panorama view of our trail and the Alpstein Massif in the background

Mount Säntis in the background

Sharing the meadow with the goats

VIDEO:

Walking with the goats

Looking South we can see the vertical cliff walls of the canyon called "Ofenloch" which has the nickname of "Grand Canyon of Eastern Switzerland". We have walked through this canyon and it was interesting to look at it from this side

From here there is a very steep climb to Hochalp

Another look to the North. The hill at the back is called "Hundwiler Höhe" and we have been over that one as well

One of my favourite views on the hike as we climb higher and higher.

At the Hochalp Crest we have views in all directions. This view is to the South to the Glarus Alps. The clouds are sitting low on the peaks there.

 

View Southeast to the fabulous Churfirsten mountains. Also into the Ofenloch Canyon. 

And to our North, another view to Urnäsch and the Bodensee

The Hochalp Mountain Restaurant was open for refreshments mostly (not worth their while to cook meals, except sausages). Urs wanted dessert, but there was none offered, so we just had something to drink

 

Enjoying a special local brew made with apples, pears, and beer, called "Bschorle". It was very good, and the location was out of this world!

Plenty of room here to keep our distance from the other few hikers up here

To the est we can see all the way to the Central Mountains where we live, namely the ever-visible Mount Rigi, and Mount Pilatus (Luzern's mountain). Further to the right you can even see Lake Zurich

High Zoom view of Mount Pilatus (far back), then Mount Rigi with its tower (a mountain that seems to be visible from all over Switzerland!), then Mount Wildspitz in front of that... Lake Zug where we live would be between those two!  (Also, we think that might be the Napf Massif at the far right in the back)

From here it is all downhill now. The sign says two more hours to Urnäsch!

All downhill from now to Urnäsch

 

VIDEO:

Panorama view of the northern part of Switzerland

from the Alpstein Massif to Lake Constance to Germany

Lots of variety of trails, as for example this beautiful soft meadow. A sign at the edge of the forest had requested we walk single file, so as not to make the trail too wide.

Moorlands were soft and wet. This is a new way to cross over a fence

Approaching Urnäsch. The train station is at the far end of the town, so we had to walk two km. along paved roads. In the back the hill is called "Hundwiler Höhe", which we walked over last year (starting one town over from here, at Zürchersmühle), and continued on from there to Appenzell

Looking up the valley toward Schwägalp Pass. Today's hike was along the crest on the right. In 2017 we came down from the peak at the far left.

Zoomed view of the peak of Mount Säntis with its very recognizable meteorological station

Even though the paved roads were annoying, there were lots of pretty and/or old Appenzell houses to admire 

Another typical structure in this area

Last stretch to the main part of Urnäsch before the train station

Urnäsch, Appenzell

Urnäsch, Appenzell. Typical construction for this region. Some of these houses date to 1700 or earlier

We have done lots of hiking in this area. Starting at Schwägalp, we have, in other years, walked a) the other half of the Appenzell Alpine Trail (in green = 2017), b) the Ofenloch Canyon (in orange = 2018), c) on the Alpine Panorama Trail over the Risipass into the Valley of the Thur River (in purple = 2019) and d) the Hochalp side of the Appenzell Alpine Trail in 2020

And from here at the foot of the Alpstein Massif we could see all the way into the mountains past Luzern