Friday June 12, 2020 -- Eight days since the last hike, it was high time to get out on the trails again! And this single nice day between two stretches of rainy and cold weather could not have been more perfect! Even with a strong wind, the air temperature was mild, and most spectacularly, the stretch of rain had cleared the air for a far-reaching crisp view that we hadn't had for a long time.
The weather was best in the northeastern part of the country, as we also evidenced on our hike looking South to the Alps where there were clouds hanging low over the peaks. Here at the foot of the Alpstein Massif in Appenzell, the landscape is unique as you find yourself with views of two totally different landscapes: Low hills and the vast flat expanse of Germany past the large lake Bodensee (Lake Constance) to the North, and row upon row of spectacular pre-alpine mountain ranges to the South, including the Churfirsten, the Glarus Alps, the Uri Alps and the mountains of Central Switzerland (Mythen, Rigi, Pilatus...). We have been in this area many times, and never have I seen the Bodensee so clearly.
We started at Schwägalp at the foot of the mighty Mount Säntis and walked the other half of the Appenzell Alpine Trail, having done the first section of the total 29-km loop in 2017. Other than the bus ride to Schwägalp (very popular destination), we met only about a dozen people on this trail. The trail was muddy at times from the previous rains, but not difficult to walk. Since we have also done many other hikes in this area, it was fun to see the other places we walked from a different "perspective". In all we walked the 15-km section in about 5 hours, with so much variety along the trail, that we didn't get tired at all. ... The only negative part of the hike were the final two kilometers to the train station at Urnäsch, which we had to do on paved roads....
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| On the way to Schwägalp we had to wait 20 minutes for the bus in Nesslau, enough time to quickly walk down the main street and look at some of the buildings, so very Swiss and typical for this area, which is part of the Toggenburg |
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| In Nesslau-St.Johann, waiting for our bus to Schwägalp |
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| At the Schwägalp Pass we walked the West side of the Appenzell Alpine Trail no.980 (15 km) to Urnäsch, having walked the East side near Mt. Kronberg in May 2017. The best part of the hike was on Hochalp, where we saw for miles upon miles both North and South |
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| This trail marker shows 4 hours and 20 minutes to Urnäsch, but that was a quicker route. Our route was 4 hours 45 minutes. |
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| This is the best time of year, with Swiss Cows in the blossoming meadows. |
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| Sharing the trail with the cows! Sometimes it is intimidating when they run up the trail behind you! |
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| A look backwards at Mount Säntis and Schwägalp, where we started on the pass road across from the Restaurant |
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| Some sections of the trail were through marshy areas, built up with wooden boards but still wet from the rains |
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| A look up at the road which comes up to the Schwägalp Pass from Urnäsch (We came up by bus from the other side). Across the valley is the other part of the Appenzell Alpine Trail |
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| First view of Urnäsch below, the end of our day's hike. In the back to the North is Lake Bodensee (Lake Constance) and Germany on the other side of the lake |
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| Panorama view of our trail and the Alpstein Massif in the background |
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| Mount Säntis in the background |
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| Sharing the meadow with the goats |
VIDEO:
Walking with the goats
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| Looking South we can see the vertical cliff walls of the canyon called "Ofenloch" which has the nickname of "Grand Canyon of Eastern Switzerland". We have walked through this canyon and it was interesting to look at it from this side |
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| From here there is a very steep climb to Hochalp |
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| Another look to the North. The hill at the back is called "Hundwiler Höhe" and we have been over that one as well |
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| One of my favourite views on the hike as we climb higher and higher. |
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| At the Hochalp Crest we have views in all directions. This view is to the South to the Glarus Alps. The clouds are sitting low on the peaks there. |
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| View Southeast to the fabulous Churfirsten mountains. Also into the Ofenloch Canyon. |
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| And to our North, another view to Urnäsch and the Bodensee |
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| The Hochalp Mountain Restaurant was open for refreshments mostly (not worth their while to cook meals, except sausages). Urs wanted dessert, but there was none offered, so we just had something to drink |
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| Enjoying a special local brew made with apples, pears, and beer, called "Bschorle". It was very good, and the location was out of this world! |
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| Plenty of room here to keep our distance from the other few hikers up here |
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| To the West we can see all the way to the Central Mountains where we live, namely the ever-present Mount Rigi, and Mount Pilatus (Luzern's mountain). Further to the right you can even see Lake Zurich |
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| High Zoom view of Mount Pilatus (far back), then Mount Rigi with its tower (a mountain that seems to be visible from all over Switzerland!), then Mount Wildspitz in front of that... Lake Zug where we live would be between those two! (Also, we think that might be the Napf Massif at the far right in the back) |
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| From here it is all downhill now. The sign says two more hours to Urnäsch! |
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| All downhill from now to Urnäsch |
VIDEO:
Panorama view of the northern part of Switzerland
from the Alpstein Massif to Lake Constance to Germany
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| Lots of variety of trails, as for example this beautiful soft meadow. A sign at the edge of the forest had requested we walk single file, so as not to make the trail too wide. |
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| Moorlands were soft and wet. This is a new way to cross over a fence |
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| Approaching Urnäsch. The train station is at the far end of the town, so we had to walk two km. along paved roads. In the back the hill is called "Hundwiler Höhe", which we walked over last year (starting one town over from here, at Zürchersmühle), and continued on from there to Appenzell |
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| Looking up the valley toward Schwägalp Pass. Today's hike was along the crest on the right. In 2017 we came down from the peak at the far left. |
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| Zoomed view of the peak of Mount Säntis with its very recognizable meteorological station |
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| Even though the paved roads were annoying, there were lots of pretty and/or old Appenzell houses to admire |
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| Another typical structure in this area |
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| Last stretch to the main part of Urnäsch before the train station |
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| Urnäsch, Appenzell |
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| Urnäsch, Appenzell. Typical construction for this region. Some of these houses date to 1700 or earlier |
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We have done lots of hiking in this area. Starting at Schwägalp, we have, in other years, walked a) the other half of the Appenzell Alpine Trail (in green = 2017), b) the Ofenloch Canyon (in orange = 2018), c) on the Alpine Panorama Trail over the Risipass into the Valley of the Thur River (in purple = 2019) and d) the Hochalp side of the Appenzell Alpine Trail in 2020
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| And from here at the foot of the Alpstein Massif we could see all the way into the mountains past Luzern |
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