A climb to two Mountain Villages above the Magadino Plain

Monday June 15, 2020 -- Another vacation week for us: That means some hiking, although the weather forecast is not as reliable as previously, and has turned cold and rainy for us...

Except in Canton Ticino, where we at least could count on that it would not rain. 

Every time we cross the Magadino Plain by train we can see a small stone church perched high on the hillside, about 700m above the valley. Our map showed us there is an actual community called Monti di Ditto in a clearing up there, hidden from view from below. We have long wanted to go have a look, so that was the plan. We could have saved ourselves 150m of the 500m climb if we had taken the longer way along the road (which snakes up to that village and even beyond), but who wants to walk uphill for 4 km on asphalt?? So instead we picked the steep way up, 90 minutes straight uphill through overgrown forest on what turned out to be a pretty humid day!

But the climb was worth it, the village was very very pretty, and the view over Lago Maggiore from the little church a fantastic backdrop for an early picnic lunch. We did get a bit of a shock when we peeked into the window of what we thought was a chapel, expecting to see an altar with candles, and instead finding out this was an ossuary, or a depository of bones from hundreds of skeletons... makes you wonder where all those people came from, up here out of the way?

Before heading down again, we walked another hour to another such hamlet called Bazadee, which consisted of several ruined houses (harder to keep up because no road access) but some very nice ones as well. The steep trail around a ravine is the official trail between the two villages, but it was covered with leaves and washed out in places. Seems hardly anyone has walked this trail in a while! I marvel at how the people who own the houses up here make the trip up....

The 700 m descent through the chaotic forest took 90 minutes, and we were reminded by many blackened trees of the forest fire here on New Year's Eve 2018, an event that sticks in our minds as even then we had planned to hike up here, and wondered if the fire would do damage in the communities....

We often travel across the Magadino Plain and have noticed a stone church on the level area. There is a small village up there, hidden by the trees

We started our hike in Agarone, 150m above the valley bottom. So had only another 500m to climb! The stairs on this house are granite slabs built into the wall.

Lots of colorful gardens. This dark-blue / purple is my favourite color for hydrangeas

Flowering succulents

The view over the Magadino Plain and Lago Maggiore before we start our steep climb

The ascent through the unkempt forest to Monti di Ditto took us 90 minutes. From there the walk along the steep ravine "Valle de Carca" to Bazzadee took another hour, and the descent to the train station at Gordola took another 90 minutes. 

First a long set of steep stairs through the vineyards, and then afterwards the forest trail

Rough forest trail past some abandoned buildings... Urs' eyes aren't so good, he didn't see the leaves covering my face for this picture!

A view to the lake through the trees near the seemingly abandoned houses

It didn't matter what the weather was like outside of the dense forest!

After spending some time in Monti di Ditto, we are going to continue to Bazzadee

Lots of very nicely renovated old buildings up here

Some of the properties have brand new features

Here's the little church that we always see from the valley bottom!

Magnificent views, and we were pretty lucky with the weather! We weren't expecting a lot of sunshine, but it was actually quite warm

A good place to have lunch with this magnificent view over Lago Maggiore, with Locarno on the right on the Maggia Delta

 

Before heading back down the mountain, we will walk to the other village tucked away in the forest up here: Bazzadee. It's about an hour to walk

Enjoying a final view up at the church before heading through the village and on to Bazzadee. Behind me is an intriguing-looking structure, like a small chapel. Worth having a look.

We weren't sure if this structure was private or public, but we had a look anyway. It seems like the front used to be open, and got sealed up with stones. We expected an altar and candles inside

It was a bit of a surprise and a shock when we saw what was inside: This is obviously an ossuary, but where did all the bones come from, in this secluded area on the mountain?

A very interesting staircase! I would like to have something like this

Many of the houses have frescoes or other paintings on the outside walls. This one looks like Mona Lisa

On the far side of the village from the church

Lots of stone and old frescoes

A bit of colour here and there

Back in the dense forest on the way to Bazzadee, there are lots of lush ferns in the warm and humid climate

Always a challenge

Some of the guard rails along this narrow and steep trail don't instill a lot of confidence!

 

You can just see the church in Monti di Ditto from across the ravine

 

Zoomed view of the Church

Now for some time wandering around the collection of buildings called Bazzadee

Looks like maybe that little one is being built up all new?

This one was the prettiest in the village

Another great view onto the lake

 

Looking down at Urs, because he has just taken a photo of me....

 

..... at the top of the stairs of this house!

There is another even larger village higher up, called Monti di Motti, but we have been there before. From here we're going down to Gordola, another 90 minutes and 700m descent

We descended through a large section of forest which showed the effects of the large forest fire of Dec.31, 2018

Near the valley bottom the vegetation changes to lush and tropical, like these healthy-looking banana trees!

We always find "unofficial" trails, i.e. shortcuts, like this dense palm-filled grove!

This south-facing hill has lots of sunshine (we come here a lot in winter) and is ideal for growing grapes to make a special Pinot Noir (strict guidelines i.e. 1 kg of grapes per cubic meter of land)

Approaching the church in Sant'Antonio, near the train station in Gordola

Sant'Antonio Abate: Regal on the outside, rather plain on the inside

Each colour is a different hike we have done on this hillside over the last 7 years. The yellow one is new and is the first time we have been this high up.