January 19, 2019

Winter Wonderland on Mount Rigi

Saturday January 16th --  Mount Rigi has rightly earned its nickname of „Queen of the Mountains“ not least for its accessibility (via cogwheel trains and cable cars), but mostly for its versatility in terms of activities for the entire family, both summer and winter…. And of course for the 360° views stretching wide over Lake Lucerne and across the Alps of Central Switzerland in the South, to the Alpstein Massif in the East and all the way to Germany in the North and the Jura and France in the West. It's no wonder tourists from all over the world flock here in summer and in winter.

The Rigi Panorama Trail is a 7 km prepared trail which runs along the former railway line from Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg (in operation from 1874 to 1931 mainly to transport vacation guests from the Rigi Kaltbad Station to a hotel at Rigi Scheidegg.) It is an easy walk along a mostly level and wide path skirted by cross-country ski grooves, and when conditions are right, the snow crunches underfoot and the sun sparkles off the trees.

When we come up here to walk this stretch, which we have done several times as we can get up here in about one hour from home -- in fact, we can almost see our home when we stand on the summit of Rigi Kulm -- we like to lunch at a family-run Gasthof in Rigi Unterstetten where they serve hearty and well-priced meals.

Since this day was particularly beautiful and the air so clear, and since it was only a two-hour walk, we decided to also take the train up to the summit to enjoy those 360° views and finished off with another 20-minute walk down to the next railway station: Rigi Staffel, before heading down to Arth Goldau with the Rigi cogwheel train.

From my bedroom balcony I get a view across Lake Zug to Mount Rigi, that's how close we are to the "Queen of the Mountains"

To get to the start of our hike, we go up with the new (Dec.2017) Rigi Scheidegg Cableway from the Rigi Kräbel station of the Goldau-Rigibahn line

Like in a picture book. This chapel is at the start of our hike at Rigi Scheidegg

At this time of morning (11 a.m.) there were still clouds in the East (this is looking southeast along the Uri Alps) but in the West, the weather was looking up!

Walking westward, clear blue skies and views all the way to the Bernese Alps, including the Eiger North Wall

Perfect cold sunny weather with crunchy snow underfoot. That is the distinctive Mount Pilatus in the background

Walking along the old Kaltbad-Scheidegg Railway line (dismantled 1930's)

The view kept changing from South to North. This is the view northwards along the top of Mount Zug and way across to Germany on the horizon

About half the trail was along North-side slopes, so we did have a lot of shade as well

But where the shade is, the snow remains longer on the trees... how pretty!

Arrived at the half-way point, Rigi Unterstetten, where the old railway bridge still remains, recently restored

A quickening of pace as we approach the restaurant at Rigi Unterstetten (and the smell of French Fries)
 
Lots of food and reasonably-priced. And we were lucky that on this Saturday the restaurant was not packed the way it was a year ago during Christmas week when we were last here

This is the view from the outdoor terrace at the Unterstetten Gasthof: Lake Lucerne ringed by Mount Bürgenstock, Mount Stanserhorn, and Mount Pilatus

Someone was lucky to obtain one of the old wagons from the defunct railway and converted it to a summer home here! (Or the ultimate trailer-park trailer)

In summer, this is a farm that serves small meals and refreshments

A peek through the hills to Lake Lauerzersee and Mount Mythen, and the part of the Rigi hills where we started our hike

Whether sunny or shady, the Winter Wonderland is indeed a wonder

These days you can get a horse-drawn carriage to transport you along the old railway line to the hotel in Rigi Scheidegg

Last stretch before our goal at the Rigi Kaltbad station
 
At Rigi Kaltbad there is a mineral spa where you can enjoy the spectacular views while relaxing in the warm pool

From Rigi Kaltbad we took a 10-minute train ride up to the summit station: Rigi Kulm. Very popular with tourists from all over the world

From Rigi Kulm summit you can see all across Lake Zug to the North (City of Zug at the North End, and our own Mountain Mount Zug to the East)

And to the West along the Küssnacht arm of Lake Lucerne, and the city of Lucerne at the base of Mount Pilatus (at the end of the other arm)

To the East the Glarus Alps, and below Lake Lauerzersee

The little blue Rigi-Arth-Goldau cogwheel train heading back down the mountain from this, the topmost stop at Kigi Kulm
 
We decided to walk another 20 minutes down to the next station at Rigi Staffel because of the views (there is actually a winter trail that takes you right back to Rigi Kaltbad as well)

An imposing sight: There was a helicopter practicing landings. I was glad I was on the trail up here and not down there!


A different version of the Rigi Railway, the shuttle-train for sledders, was just bringing its load of sleds up the hill for storage. This is the train we rode down the mountain in.

After ascending with the cable car from near Arth Goldau, we walked 7 km from Rigi Scheidegg to Rigi Kaltbald, then took the Vitznau-Rigi train up to Rigi Kulm, walked 20 minutes to the next station and took the Rigi-Goldau train back to Arth Goldau


January 16, 2019

First Hike of 2019: Einsiedeln to Rothenthurm via Chatzenstrick Pass

January 16, 2019 --  For our first hike of 2019 the weather was perfect for a winter hike in the mountains..... except most of the mountain areas in the country are currently on Avalanche Alert because of the almost non-stop snow in the last two weeks...

We had wanted to go to one of our favourite winter trails in the Schächental Valley in Canton Uri, but had the foresight to phone ahead. We were told the winter trail was closed due to large risk of avalanche. So we had to settle for something in the lower elevations in wide open landscape where no mountains can come down on us....

Our choice was to walk from the town of Einsiedeln in Canton Schwyz (whose massive monastery marks one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Switzerland; it is an important stop on the St.James Trail through Switzerland) over the low pass called Chatzenstrick (only 200m ascent from Einsiedeln) to the high moor of Rothenthurm, popular for cross-country skiing in winter and a protected area of national importance for the revival of the disappearing moor landscapes.

This location is only an hour travel from home, so an extra plus, and we did have lots of sunshine for our 12-km afternoon walk.


This is the view South across our home city of Zug as seen from the train window (the fastest way to our destination was North, then SE, then South.... One hour by train)

The massive monastery in Einsiedeln

Heading up to the Chatzenstrick Pass, which is only a 200m ascent to that building top right (50 minutes on foot from Einsiedeln)

Some pretty winter landscape, even though the snow was starting to disappear.
 
Looking down on Einsideln from the Chatzenstrick Pass
 
There were two dry benches in front of the chapel, so we had a coffee break while enjoying the view
 
Heading down the other side of the Pass, northwards toward the Rothenthurm Moor

Below us the wide open Rothenthurm Moor
 
Winter landscape on the Rothenthurm Moor

Walking across the Rothenthurm Moor. We had lots of sunshine

This open area is popular with cross-country skiers

The sun was pleasant but the trail was a bit soft and it took longer to get to our destination than we expected.
 
Lovely winter afternoon. 


Arriving at our goal of Rothenthurm where we took the bus home via Aegeri

Our Wednesday afternoon walk: 12 km including a quick walk to the Monastery in Einsiedeln before crossing the Chatzenstrick Pass and walking across the Rothenthurm Moor. Took us 3 hours and 45 minutes. 

January 12, 2019

Silvesterchlaus: New Year's Eve on January 12th in Urnäsch

Saturday January 12, 2019 --  There is a fabulous tradition in one single small canton in Switzerland (Appenzell Ausserrhoden): When the switch was made in 1582 from the Julian Calendar to the Gregorian Calendar to change the date of Easter, the people of this canton refused to accept the new calendar, and continued to celebrate the change to the old New Year as per the Julian Calendar. To this day they still celebrate New Year's Eve twice: On December 31st and January 13th. The men in a select few villages dress up in intricately designed and lovingly handmade costumes either as "beautiful/ugly" (nature-themed), "ugly" (with scary masks), or "beautiful" characters, the latter wearing ornate headdresses depicting life in the old farming communities. Even the "ugly" characters are beautiful in their extravagant costumes of fresh forest leaves, branches, straw or wood-shavings. 

Starting at 5 a.m., groups of these characters (men only or boys) travel from farmhouse to farmhouse singing (or more like chanting) in a special folk style called "zäuelen" to wish the owners a Happy New Year and symbolically to scare away evil spirits. As a thank you they get payment and something to drink (beer or Glühwein).

This year we had the opportunity to travel to Urnäsch on January 12th (if the Old New Year's Eve falls on a Sunday, they follow through with the tradition -- called Silvesterchlaus -- on the Saturday) to witness this event. The weather was cold, wet, and cloudy, but the experience was fabulous. Also, we were quite lucky that it did not rain: the event does not take place when it rains or snows, because of possible damage to the delicate headpieces. 


The "Uglies":
In this case, the only "ugly" group we saw were children, and they were cute!

A group of singing children depicting the "Ugly" group

This "Ugly" was my favourite!

This group with their scary masks are not meant to represent evil.



VIDEO: The group of Children are ringing their bells


Half-Half: The Beautiful/Uglies (also beautiful). 
They are dressed in natural materials like leaves and branches and also wear extravagant headdresses, but depicting nature themes:


A group of nature-themed Chläuse with suits totally covered in tiny fir branches. These impressed us almost more than the "beautiful" masks.

As a thank you, the farmers provide something to drink (the whole group drinks from the same straw!)

When they are done chanting, they dance around and shake their bells



VIDEO: Ringing in the New Year with cow bells

This group of Nature-Themed Chläusen have headdresses with wood animals
 
This group depicts the woodland animals commonly found here

A group of children representing the Nature Group: The singing was barely audible, but it's nice to see them learn the tradition!



The Beautiful:  
These are usually groups of 6 or 7 where two of the men are dressed as women wearing the largest headdresses. The group leader's mask has a white flower on the corner of the mouth.
 
The headpieces are intricately-designed and very delicate.

Details from the life of the Appenzell people: Here a choir singing in traditional costume

More music-themed headpieces

Old horse-drawn wagon

In this group, life in general in an Appenzell Village
 
In this group, life in general in an Appenzell Village



VIDEO: A sample of the "singing", which is actually a type of yodeling 
(volume probably has to be turned up.)



This depiction of the construction of a wooden bridge is my favourite
 
In the early morning the groups were out in the snowy countryside, but by afternoon they were singing at the homes in Urnäsch town.
 




VIDEO: Heading off from one house to the next



Here a group of "Beautiful" are taking the headdresses off for a break!



VIDEO:  Drink break to warm up, in the local Gasthof!




It was wet and cold but not raining, so we were lucky to have seen the Chläusen as the came into the village.

A pretty Appenzell house...

We were here in Summer once: The fountain at the Urnäsch train station commemorates this tradition